transmission drive pulley will not turn

[ILENGINE]

Forgot about the Spicer(dana/foote) trannys, could be one of those to.

 

[oggie]

Most of those were peerless trannys. If a peerless there should be a small metal tag sitting in a recessed area on one side of the tranny or the other. It is about 3/8 by 1/2-3/4 Get me that number and I can see what I can find out as far as parts available.

I did find the little tag, thank you. It is a Peerless 915 032a transaxle which I was able to find a parts site on the Sears web page. If you know of a better site please let me know. When I disassembled the tranny I found the input shaft needle bearing worn out and missing some of the roller bearings. I have removed and replace similar bearing in automobile drive shafts using a socket to knock out the old bearing. What do you recommend using to remove and replace this bearing? Thank you!

 

[Buckshot 1]

:smile: I use my press, when removing/install bearings. Find a wooden dowel or equivalent the same O.D. as the bearing and drive them out. Needle bearing # 780086, 2 required, O-Ring # 792001 1 required. The square cut O-ring must be replaced if the shaft is removed. Top needle bearing flush with housing, bottom needle bearing .135-.150 below flush. Go to odref.com/peerless/915-series for the your transaxle breakdown.

 

[ILENGINE]

OK to drive out the old bearings, but you will want to press in the new ones, due to the fact that you may either deform the bearing, or knock out the needles if you try to drive the new one in.

 

[oggie]

OK to drive out the old bearings, but you will want to press in the new ones, due to the fact that you may either deform the bearing, or knock out the needles if you try to drive the new one in.

After seeing the needle bearings completely gutted of all the roller bearings I am convinced that they were the cause of the mover locking up. I replaced the two needle bearings and some seals in my tranny. After reassembly on the work bench I did a test by putting the flywheel on and spinning it by hand. Everything appeared to work and sound fine until I noticed that something jammed inside the tranny when I pulled up on the flywheel while turning it. It only pulled the input shaft up about 3/32 but that was enough to cause something to jam making turning the flywheel by hand imposable. When I lowered the flywheel it worked fine. I thought perhaps gravity would be on my side to keep the flywheel down so I installed it on the mower. When the drive belt was engaged nothing happed but a few jerky movements. The drive belt was not turning at all but it was connected and tensioned properly. I could put additional washers on the input shaft to keep it from raising but it seems to me that there must be something else out of whack because I cant see why the input shaft position would be so critical. I don稚 mind tearing into it again but I would like to get a professional advice as to what I did wrong. What do you guys recommend? Thanks,Oggie

 

[Buckshot 1]

:smile: When you opened up the trans, where did you set the bottom needle bearing? There is a thrust washer under the drive pulley and another thrust washer that goes on after the bottom seal and before the bevel gear. did you install these washers?

 

[oggie]

:smile: When you opened up the trans, where did you set the bottom needle bearing? There is a thrust washer under the drive pulley and another thrust washer that goes on after the bottom seal and before the bevel gear. did you install these washers?

I recessed the bottom needle bearing .140", however, I only put one thrust washer after the bottom seal and before the bevel gear. It calls for two but I only had one good one. These washers are pretty thin so I didn't think a few thousandths of an inch would matter at all. Was I very wrong in this assumption? Thanks, Oggie

 

[Buckshot 1]

I recessed the bottom needle bearing .140", however, I only put one thrust washer after the bottom seal and before the bevel gear. It calls for two but I only had one good one. These washers are pretty thin so I didn't think a few thousandths of an inch would matter at all. Was I very wrong in this assumption? Thanks, Oggie

:smile: .140 will work. A few thousands of a inch will let the pinion gear float up and down, therefore possibly causing a bind. Unless I am incorrectly reading your post, there is only one thrust washer on the bottom and one on the top. You need to take the trans back apart and remove the one thrust washer, measure the thickness and I.D. and go to the hardware store and purchase 1 or 2. Some times they are called machinist washers. Then reassemble. You did install the top retaining ring?

 

[oggie]

:smile: .140 will work. A few thousands of a inch will let the pinion gear float up and down, therefore possibly causing a bind. Unless I am incorrectly reading your post, there is only one thrust washer on the bottom and one on the top. You need to take the trans back apart and remove the one thrust washer, measure the thickness and I.D. and go to the hardware store and purchase 1 or 2. Some times they are called machinist washers. Then reassemble. You did install the top retaining ring?

Every thing turned out just right. The mower is back on duty. Thanks everyone for all the help and ideas.

 

[Buckshot 1]

:smile: Glad to hear thats its back to working again.