Engine Oil Viscosity...

[Black Bart]

I don't know if this helps, but the 10W40 oil I have is almost as clear as water, so does that mean it has little additives in it and is suitable ?

The color tells you absolutely nothing.
What brand of oil is it.
Can you buy SHELL ROTELLA where you live it is a very good HDEO in the USA more than 80 percent of the 18 wheelers on the road use it.

It is recommended by CUMMINS CAT MACK and DETROIT

The only way to check additives is with a UOA and check it for a TBN count but I can assure you ROTELLA has a great add pack including ZDDP at 1200ppm :thumbsup:

 

[jmurray01]

I can't accurately answer that unfortunately. Unless it says it's formulated for garden equipment, I'd probably say no.

Just go down to the store and buy some regular ol' SAE30 and be done with it! $2.99 at Walmart lol!

It says "For Garden Machinery" on the bottle, so does that make it OK ?

 

[yoster]

It says "For Garden Machinery" on the bottle, so does that make it OK ?

Yep, that's the specification you want if you're set on using that oil. I'd still (to be formal) recommend "what your manufacturer recommends" - but between us and the fence post, you'll be fine running that.

 

[oldyellr]

Okay, I have to ask. How would oil "for garden machinery" differ from regular motor oil and how would motor oil not be as good?

 

[Jetblast]

I'd use whatever the manufacturer says so that if you have any problems during the warranty period, they won't blame you for using the wrong oil. Going against their recommendation usually voids warranties, even on totally unrelated problems.

You could lie and say you used the right oil and they probably wouldn't check, but why complicate matters over a few bucks? I realize that oil is more expensive there and extra cash is hard to come by when you're young, but I just thought I'd throw that out there.

 

[yoster]

Okay, I have to ask. How would oil "for garden machinery" differ from regular motor oil and how would motor oil not be as good?

I need to find the article, but from what I understand, "garden machinery" oil has fewer additives (automotive oil has many additives that don't apply to these engines), or a different additive package that doesn't allow the oil properties to break down as quickly. It also mentioned that the garden oil is designed for hotter running, air cooled engines (again why synthetic can be substituted).

It's kind of like the difference between TC3 and TC-W3 two-stroke oil. The only difference between the two is that TC3 is rated for hotter air cooled engines, and TC-W3 is designed for water cooled. Running TC-W3 in an engine rated for TC3 can cause protection issues at the higher temperatures.

I'll have to probably stop at this point. I don't like posting information without the source of my knowledge, and for the life of me, I can't find that article!!! I think it was published by Craftsman.. will keep looking.. Like the other guy said though, can't go wrong with the OEM recommendation!

 

[reddragon]

can i suggest ROTELLA T6...perhaps?

 

[jmurray01]

Well I put the 10W40 "For Garden Machinery" oil in, as I said I would, ran the mower for around 30 minutes doing the front and back lawns, and it worked fine.

No smoke, no vibrations, no misfiring, and no oil burning (I checked the dipstick once the engine had cooled).

 

[Black Bart]

can i suggest ROTELLA T6...perhaps?

I changed oil on my 180 JD yesterday and filled it with T6 :licking:

I can't understand why people will pay 5K for a mower then buy whatever is cheap at their local discount store for oil to put in it.

 

[reddragon]

yeah!..im a believer in synthetic...one thing, besides getting the correct API rating for your machine, is the "ENERGY CONSERVING" circle label on the back..[T6 is not]..from what ive heard, E.C. is displaced easier during movement, but also is consumed [burnt] more in the cylinder