Fuel Shut Off

TobyU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Threads
0
Messages
451
?????????????????
My question and or concern is why you're looking to add a fuel shut off in the first place.
Most mowers don't have fuel shut offs.
So I explain some of the reasons people often look into adding a fuel shut off.
Some of these instances are simply trying to Band-Aid a problem of repair that needs to be performed.
Others are so they can follow a certain procedure in their storage process which with today's fuels, is certainly not the best way they can shut down and store their machine.
Many don't believe this because they are going from many year old previous experiences that prove successful for them back then.
The problem is they have been several additional variables introduced into the situation since that time so running a machine dry is no longer the best way to store it for the off season.
 

shurguywutt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2013
Threads
29
Messages
189
My question and or concern is why you're looking to add a fuel shut off in the first place.
Most mowers don't have fuel shut offs.
So I explain some of the reasons people often look into adding a fuel shut off.
Some of these instances are simply trying to Band-Aid a problem of repair that needs to be performed.
Others are so they can follow a certain procedure in their storage process which with today's fuels, is certainly not the best way they can shut down and store their machine.
Many don't believe this because they are going from many year old previous experiences that prove successful for them back then.
The problem is they have been several additional variables introduced into the situation since that time so running a machine dry is no longer the best way to store it for the off season.
All my hondas have OEM shutoffs. Never had a problem fouling carbs. Typically only my Briggs equip does not have OEM shutoffs and this is the equip that I have carb problems with. I just wanted to add it because I typically run E0 but since fuel is getting expensive I was going to use e10 during the season and e0 on off season. I would like to be able to clear the carb like in my Hondas. This is why.
 

7394

Lawn Addict
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Threads
84
Messages
4,718
I only had issue on a long ago Briggs rider, piece of tiny crud got under needle valve & it was gravity fill, so it did fill.
My current Liberty has OEM shutoff.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,705
My question and or concern is why you're looking to add a fuel shut off in the first place.
Most mowers don't have fuel shut offs.
So I explain some of the reasons people often look into adding a fuel shut off.
Some of these instances are simply trying to Band-Aid a problem of repair that needs to be performed.
Others are so they can follow a certain procedure in their storage process which with today's fuels, is certainly not the best way they can shut down and store their machine.
Many don't believe this because they are going from many year old previous experiences that prove successful for them back then.
The problem is they have been several additional variables introduced into the situation since that time so running a machine dry is no longer the best way to store it for the off season.
I would argue that point Toby
And the fact that about 20% of what comes in to my shop has sufferred from a float valve sticking . running them dry is the best thing you can do .
Fuel vary from place to place, state to state & during the seasons .
However you can not evaporate the volatile elements and leave a gum residue is there is no fuel there in the first place
All of my gear has a fuel shut off and all of them get starved off when I have done with them for a week or more .
 

TobyU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Threads
0
Messages
451
I would argue that point Toby
And the fact that about 20% of what comes in to my shop has sufferred from a float valve sticking . running them dry is the best thing you can do .
Fuel vary from place to place, state to state & during the seasons .
However you can not evaporate the volatile elements and leave a gum residue is there is no fuel there in the first place
All of my gear has a fuel shut off and all of them get starved off when I have done with them for a week or more .
As you said - fuels vary from region to region.
In my region I have found "running them dry" isn't the best thing as you don't get them really dry - only 1/2 -3/4 dry as the bottom of the bowl still has some in there and THIS is what evaporates and leaves gum and residue.
In my area, fresh full tank of stabilized fuel and run for 5-7 minutes is better than turning off valve and letting them die out.
NOW, using fuel shut off is better than doing nothing and just walking away after last use which is what many people do.
 

TobyU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Threads
0
Messages
451
All my hondas have OEM shutoffs. Never had a problem fouling carbs. Typically only my Briggs equip does not have OEM shutoffs and this is the equip that I have carb problems with. I just wanted to add it because I typically run E0 but since fuel is getting expensive I was going to use e10 during the season and e0 on off season. I would like to be able to clear the carb like in my Hondas. This is why.
Hondas are the only common ones to have shutoffs.
What do you mean by "fouling" carbs ?
The most common problem is a no start or not running well condition after off season storage.
While turning off valve and running untill it stalls is better than doing nothing before storage, it still leaves some old fuel in the bowl and tank and that will still evaporate and can cause issues.
It is better than doing nothing but I prefer to fill machine with fresh stabilized fuel before it's last use then to it off with that same fresh fuel when done.
If it has a fuel valve, I have no problem turning it off to prevent a mess from possible leaks but I DO NOT run it after I turn off the valve.
I want the bowl as full as possible with fresh stabilized fuel bought that day!

Also NEVER take old gas (even week old) and add stabilizer to it and call it stabilized.
Take empty gas can you station, add 1oz sta-bil to can for every gallon of gas and then as gas to can.
This is fresh, stabilized fuel.
 

shurguywutt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2013
Threads
29
Messages
189
I think "fuel stabilizer" is snake oil. I used to use it but it didn't make a difference so I stopped wasting money on it. I really think if you used fresh gas vs fresh gas with Stabil in it, they would last the same amount of time. Stabil has an expiration date.

Anyways, the shut off has been installed for about a week and it is working great to achieve my purpose of running the carb dry.
 

Scrubcadet10

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Threads
250
Messages
6,441
The only stabilizer I've ever seen work as advertised is StarTron.
 

TobyU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Threads
0
Messages
451
I think "fuel stabilizer" is snake oil. I used to use it but it didn't make a difference so I stopped wasting money on it. I really think if you used fresh gas vs fresh gas with Stabil in it, they would last the same amount of time. Stabil has an expiration date.

Anyways, the shut off has been installed for about a week and it is working great to achieve my purpose of running the carb dry.
Well, as I often say to everyone about lots of different things in life, it definitely depends on your area, climate, region etc and your mileage may vary.
But I can tell you in my climate.. fuel stabilizer certainly is not snake oil.
I use plain old sta-bil.
I don't buy their special marine or ethanol versions or whatever and I don't use the Walmart super tech stuff that has a slightly different color and I've never used startron or any other brand that I can remember.
I'm sure many of them are either the same or work the same but I will caution everyone that you need to use it for the long-term storage dose like it used to say on the back of the bottle.
It no longer says that now and they will just tell you to use that one ounce for every two and a half gallons but they used to say for long-term storage up to 2 years use it a ratio of 1 oz for every gallon of fuel.

This is how I use it and I make sure I always put the stabilizer into the gas can first with a nice tall 1 oz for every gallon of fuel and then add my fuel to it..
I have verifiable proof over and over that this works better than just fresh gas.
I have had generators with 10 horsepower engines and smaller sit for over 3 1/2 years and start right up in
two or three pulls.
I have at other engines or even the same engines previously set for under 2 years and not start because they did not have stabilized fuel in them.

I will also say there is a problem with trying to run your engine's dry or turning off a fuel shut off.
While, it is better than doing nothing, if you do that your way and I store my engines with fresh full stabilized fuel in them, you will have cracked and leaky fuel lines and needles and seat valves that do not shut off and flood at your carburetor that will have to be replaced or replace the carburetor before I will.
Gas is very bad and caustic today more so than it used to be.
When you dip rubber parts into it and then let it dry out repeatedly it starts to crack faster than if you just left it submerged in the fuel to begin with.

Decades ago we hardly had any problems with the needle valve and seats not shutting off properly but in the past 10 or 15 years we have a large amount of them for the rubber either dries out or the tip gets hardened or a groove in it or the brass seat just simply gets a bunch of microscopic pits in it that will no longer seal properly because of the fuel and more than that, the oxidation after the fuel goes away and the residue that is left and kind of corrosion like eating on the metal.

But like I tell customers who bring me a lawn mower that's 4 to 6 years old that's never been serviced and it starts and runs just fine.... I asked him if they use any type of fuel stabilizer anything like that and when they say "Nope. I just parked it when I'm done using it for the year"
I tell them to keep doing what you're doing because it's obviously working for you.

Unfortunately, about 85% of my customers especially at the beginning of the season have mowers that won't start or won't run properly who did that exact same thing, just walked away from them when they were done at the end of the year.
If these people will follow my advice and put fresh stabilized fuel in for the last mow of the year, about 95% of them will not have that problem the next.
Now you are correct that if they would all just go buy fresh gas and put it in about 45 to 50% would not have the problem either but it is not nearly as high of a percentage as adding the stabilizer.

None of this is typically necessary for riding mowers or engines over 14 or 15 horsepower because they have such larger jets and large amounts of fuel..
I've seen these things set for right about 3 years without running and fire up and be just fine by just adding some fresh gas to the top of the tank because the jets are huge compared to a push mower.
 

7394

Lawn Addict
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Threads
84
Messages
4,718
Seafoam, since 1942.........
 
Top