Cub Cadet blowing fuses

KennyV

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Again... The small terminal is the coil winding inside of that solenoid. It has to have continuity to ground in order to energies.
You apply 12 volts to that terminal ONLY when the key is placed in the Start position. (measure this by Disconnecting the wire from the small terminal, & then check to see IF you have 12 volts on that Wire, ONLY when the key switch is in the start position).
If you measure resistance of the small terminal to ground ... It will 'Look' like it is at ground... BUT if you have a good DVM you will notice it is NOT actually at ground. It will show a few ohms of resistance... That is the resistance of the coil windings. a more meaning full measurement would show the 'L'inductance of the coil in Henries. but a good ohm meter can indicate if the coil is go/no go...
That coil will have nothing to do with any electrical circuit when the Key switch is in the run position... :smile:KennyV
 

bwestbrook

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Kenny thank you because that was what I was needing is exactly how to test that which makes perfect sense now.
Is my only option left to go into the wire harness to check for shorts or is there a better alternative?
I can start and run the mower now but still blows fuse and overheats the wires, which I have also replaced because they were melted.
 

Edwards saw service

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If that mower has a voltage regulator it could be bad. I had this same problem with a gravely convertible. The key switch plug overheated and melted after blowing fuses. Just throwing that out there.

Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA
 

bwestbrook

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This problem is very intermittent. I got on it to move it and the fuse blew as soon as I try to go in reverse. I put another fuse in to see if it would do it but nope. I drove it around the yard holding those wires in my hand and they never once got hot. I tucked the main harness back behind the battery and it started overheating. Which tells me possibly a short in the main harness.
 

Rivets

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How many terminal in total are there on the solenoid? 3 or 4 Three terminals should be hooked up as follows. One larger terminal from the battery. Second large terminal goes to the starter. Small terminal comes from the key switch. Four terminals should be hooked up as follows. One larger terminal from the battery. Second large terminal goes to the starter. Small terminal comes from the key switch. Second small terminal will go to ground or a safety switch.
 
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although not 100% the book way, if the start is the only thing giving you problems, I would run a single wire form the ign. switch to solenoid. make it a clean install. If you go cutting into the harness, more problems could arise>
john
 

bwestbrook

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3 terminals and that is how it is connected. The starting is better now but those wires to the fuse still gets hot and blows the fuse
 

Rivets

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If the small wire is getting hot while the engine is running, changing that wire will not solve the problem. That wire should only carry current when the key switch is in the start position. If you have 12 V to that wire while the engine is running the key switch is probably bad.
 

bwestbrook

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New key switch that I tried does the same thing. And the wires I had to change that were melted are now a heavier gauge wire.

By the way John, where are you from? I live close to some Higginbothams that are in the small engine business.
 
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