Corroded ring terminal, battery cable

[StarTech]

Yes there two basic type and several different mounting configs.

I have seen call three post and four post. These posts are also poles on schematics. It two large posts that the hi battery amperage to starter. Now the so-call has 12v trigger post with the frame of the solenoid providing the return ground. On the so-called four post the solenoid trigger coil is ungrounded (floating ground) and many mower use this as an additional part of the safety system.

 

[rigoletto]

IIR that completes the circuit by the mounting bolts grounding . I believe some have ground wire .

If this incorrect someone please correct that .

Yup, grounded by bolts, Im pretty sure. Thanks.

 

[rigoletto]

in this case I would use the Rotary 7934 as it is a heavier amp rated version.

But in the photos it is misssing the spade connector. My mower has the solenoid with a spade connector.

 

[g-man57]

Along the lines of corroded terminal ends... Try putting those red/green felt washers on the battery posts of your motorized vehicles/equipment. I never gave them much thought until a friend told me to try them. I have never had to clean a terminal end or post since then. They're cheap and easy to install. What's to lose?

 

[mcspeed]

Along the lines of corroded terminal ends... Try putting those red/green felt washers on the battery posts of your motorized vehicles/equipment. I never gave them much thought until a friend told me to try them. I have never had to clean a terminal end or post since then. They're cheap and easy to install. What's to lose?

Maybe I’m lucky but no corrosion on golf cart, generator, zero turn, jet ski, car and truck with dual batteries. I have run those felt washers in the past and I agree they seem to work.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Maybe I’m lucky but no corrosion on golf cart, generator, zero turn, jet ski, car and truck with dual batteries. I have run those felt washers in the past and I agree they seem to work.

Maybe those felts would prevent corrosion on the mower flat terminals too .

 

[GerryB]

Don't know your age but if mower is 26 years old, replacing with original quality could be good for a lifetime. That said, 8ga copper, the more strands the better, with heavy copper terminals is the way to go. Like said earlier, solder the terminal if possible, there is no place then for corrosion to develop between cable and terminal. I also "tin" both sides of the terminal with solder which is less likely to corrode than copper.

 

[farmerdave1954]

I used to work for a telephone company many years ago. We had a product called No-Oxide, a grease that shipped with the central office battery packages to be applied to battery terminals to prevent corrosion. I have had a couple small jars of that grease on hand since 1980 that I have used on every battery terminal I've ever installed or had occasion to reconnect. I have a Ford tractor that I overhauled in 1982 that has had that grease on it now for almost 42 years that looks as good as new. I also soldered tinned copper terminals to the battery terminals on that tractor at the time of overhaul, and they, as well as the wire, are a good as they day they were installed. I have never had a single failed, or even corroded connection on any terminal I have applied that grease to in all those years. I've probably changed the battery in that tractor 7 or 8 times now, each time reapplying the grease. There are many similar products on the market, but I don't know if the quality is as good as the original No-Oxide stuff. It might even still be available.

 

[PGB1]

Speaking as an industrial and distribution system electrician, what FarmerDave said about anti-ox paste is a reply to be remembered. The stuff I build, install & service is subject to all manner of corrosive evils from road salt spray to corrosive aerosols. Using anti-oxidant paste is a cable and fitting saver.

Use the kind with zinc in it, preferably with castor oil carrier. Burndy Penetrox is excellent. Ideal NoAlox is good & available at home centers and hardware stores. On my cars, truck & equipment, I smear a light coating of paste on the wire brush cleaned battery terminals &/or lugs. I also wire brush it into the cable strands before crimping the lugs on.

Don't use auto parts store Dielectric Grease. It actually increases resistance.

A good cable to use is Type SC, PPC or Type W or even welding cable. All are heavy duty and super flexible. The stranding is so fine that you can use a smaller cable gauge due to the skin effect. I use Type W for battery cables mostly because I use miles of it at work. It is a little harder to strip than the others due to the shielding, but has a much stronger jacket.

For crimp connectors done well, perhaps buy the materials, work the paste into the strands and ask a local electrical contractor who works industrial to crimp the lugs. They will have a hydraulic double crimp tool to use. Shrink tube over the lug barrel & onto the cable won't hurt.

Paul

 

[Chipg1956]

Sure it should be replaced, but if it is spinning over it is not the solution to your starting problem.