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ZTrak 425 Advice Needed

#1

D

dconder

Hello all,

New member here and I am just looking for some help. First, when it comes to engine repair, I may as well be looking in to a human brain. I know next to nothing but a few basics. With that said, I replaced my carburetor to a new one because my engine would not stay running. This solved the problem. Engine fires right up and keeps on running. Now, my problem. I jumped on the mower and lowered the e brake and the engine dies. Move the steering handles, engine dies. This happens when seated or not seated. So I am thinking seat safety switch is bad. So, I tried the bypass, I have the 2 pin switch and just jumpered the connector. I have the same issue. Mower runs fine but try and release the e brake or move the handles and it dies. My thought is, maybe I did something when I changed the carburetor but what? I did not have any issues before I changed the carburetor so what are the odds that I would have issues that I did not cause. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.


#2

M

mechanic mark

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM154566_A7/Output/Index.html

check fuses first, if fuses good see troubleshooting chart left side of page.


#3

B

bertsmobile1

Do yourself a massive favour and buy the JD technical manual for your mower.
It is written in plain english and explains what every bit does & how it does it in simple language that is easy for a person who has never held a wrench in their hads to understand.
People recoil at the cost, but in reality it is less than the labour charge for an annual service so will pay for itself the first time it is used.
Extensive sections on how to test every part.


#4



Deleted member 97405

Do yourself a massive favour and buy the JD technical manual for your mower.
It is written in plain english and explains what every bit does & how it does it in simple language that is easy for a person who has never held a wrench in their hads to understand.
People recoil at the cost, but in reality it is less than the labour charge for an annual service so will pay for itself the first time it is used.
Extensive sections on how to test every part.

This is a hard one to diagnose online. I would definitely follow bertsmobile1's advice and get the manual. Just a few thoughts...have you checked and reseated your wiring connectors on the machine? Obviously, something weird happened and the machine isn't recognizing operator presence. Follow and check the seat switch wires and make sure for some reason something didn't disconnect or that a wire got cut or something. Jumping that seat switch connector should have made a difference, but since it didn't, I would want to check and make sure that wiring to the switch is ok. If you want to post your serial number, I can post you a wiring schematic. There is a serial number break at 100,000 and I want to get you the right diagram.

Will


#5

D

dconder

Do yourself a massive favour and buy the JD technical manual for your mower.
It is written in plain english and explains what every bit does & how it does it in simple language that is easy for a person who has never held a wrench in their hads to understand.
People recoil at the cost, but in reality it is less than the labour charge for an annual service so will pay for itself the first time it is used.
Extensive sections on how to test every part.

Where is the best place to find one of these manuals? I searched and have not been able to locate one for my mower. Thanks


#6

D

dconder

This is a hard one to diagnose online. I would definitely follow bertsmobile1's advice and get the manual. Just a few thoughts...have you checked and reseated your wiring connectors on the machine? Obviously, something weird happened and the machine isn't recognizing operator presence. Follow and check the seat switch wires and make sure for some reason something didn't disconnect or that a wire got cut or something. Jumping that seat switch connector should have made a difference, but since it didn't, I would want to check and make sure that wiring to the switch is ok. If you want to post your serial number, I can post you a wiring schematic. There is a serial number break at 100,000 and I want to get you the right diagram.

Will

I started tracing wires and have found nothing yet. My product ID number is 1M0425JLBM106980. Thanks


#7



Deleted member 97405

Where is the best place to find one of these manuals? I searched and have not been able to locate one for my mower. Thanks

Take your serial number to a dealer. They will get you the right manual. Since there is a serial number break for your model, having the serial number with you will ensure you get the right book. Since your serial number is above 100,000, you will need tech manual TM113019.
The printed book is usually more expensive, but there is usually an electronic copy available in pdf format on a cd that is cheaper.

Thanks for posting your serial number. Here is the wiring schematic.

Capture1.JPG

Capture2.JPG

Capture3.JPG


#8

D

dconder

Take your serial number to a dealer. They will get you the right manual. Since there is a serial number break for your model, having the serial number with you will ensure you get the right book. Since your serial number is above 100,000, you will need tech manual TM113019.
The printed book is usually more expensive, but there is usually an electronic copy available in pdf format on a cd that is cheaper.

Thanks for posting your serial number. Here is the wiring schematic.

View attachment 45747

View attachment 45748

View attachment 45749


Thank you Will for the diagrams. Since the mower seems to think no one is in the seat but the switch itself appears to be working, I think I will see if I can check the Interlock relay and make sure it is working. I have to start somewhere and it seems to all start there.


#9



Deleted member 97405

Thank you Will for the diagrams. Since the mower seems to think no one is in the seat but the switch itself appears to be working, I think I will see if I can check the Interlock relay and make sure it is working. I have to start somewhere and it seems to all start there.

You're welcome. The seat switch supplies the ground for the relay. The power for the relay comes from the keyswitch via the 400c yellow wire. According to the diagram, with the keyswitch on (engine off), you should have power at the yellow wire. Then the seat switch will apply the ground, which will activate the relay. If all is good there, we will have to diagnose further. Let me know how you make out!


#10

D

dconder

Ok I am hoping I found something. There is power at the key switch across the red and black wires but I get no power to the yellow wire whether the key is on or off or even when the engine is running. Shouldn’t there by power going to the yellow wire? Maybe the key switch is bad?


#11



Deleted member 97405

Yes, with the keyswitch on, there should be power at the yellow wire at the keyswitch. The keyswitch simply connects the red wire and yellow wire (#400a) in the 'run' and 'start' positions. See the blue circled area on the diagram below. If you have power at the red wire, but not at yellow wire at the keyswitch, I would replace the switch.

Capture1.JPG


#12

D

dconder

Yes, with the keyswitch on, there should be power at the yellow wire at the keyswitch. The keyswitch simply connects the red wire and yellow wire (#400a) in the 'run' and 'start' positions. See the blue circled area on the diagram below. If you have power at the red wire, but not at yellow wire at the keyswitch, I would replace the switch.

View attachment 45773

New ignition switch fixed it. I am back in business. Just need some tweaking of the carburetor now. Thank you so much for your help Will. The wiring diagram helped a ton.


#13



Deleted member 97405

New ignition switch fixed it. I am back in business. Just need some tweaking of the carburetor now. Thank you so much for your help Will. The wiring diagram helped a ton.

You're quite welcome. That is what we're here for! Glad to be of help.


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