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Seeing the brand name, most know parts for this machine are not to be found.

The first picture, arrow shows the part that has failed.



Next show it remove and damage, cast failed





Starting with a good size aluminum chunk 4 x 8 x 8, cut a piece 4 x 4 x 8



Second cut horizontal bandsaw, reduce that to 4 x 4 x 3.5



Next step will be to mill and size the for layout and machining.

More to come

pep

I can see what you are doing but that is a big lump of expensive aluminium you are about to turn into shavings.
Another way would be to bend a length of flat bar into a U shape close to the sprocket & the pulley then put a pair of self aligning bearings at each end which would counter the twisting moment which caused the cast bearing carrier to fail in the first place as you are supporting the shaft closer to each end.
Could even use 2 pieces of flat plate if you could drill 2 mounting holes in the vertical section of the bar that the casting bolts on to.

Realizing that we do what we do with what we have at hand at the time.

Looking forward to the completed support.

Moving along squared the the block and ruffed out a working billet.






Chucked it, checked center, next drill, size and fit the main bearing hole in hole





pep

Hey pep, that's some nice machinery, and pretty nice work too, are you a machinist by trade .. ??

A pipe with two bearings one at each end would also work, but I'll let you do the job you are doing...!:thumbsup:

What kills those jackshaft housings is the chain is too tight when the self propel is engaged. When you go to reassemble it, make sure that the chain isn't too tight when you engage the self propel. The chain doesn't have to be real tight and a little slack won't hurt at all. The chain is a regular #35 chain and the shaft and bearing is the same one from a water pump used on a 289ci Ford.

Boobala said:

Hey pep, that's some nice machinery, and pretty nice work too, are you a machinist by trade .. ??

Click to expand...

Boo,
Not a machinist, an IT guy currently. My natural born talent is mechanical, was a typical kid with the cars and the midnight drags. Street outlaws are not the first :laughing:

EngineMan said:

A pipe with two bearings one at each end would also work, but I'll let you do the job you are doing...!:thumbsup:

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EngineMan,
Good idea was thinking JB weld to hold everything together wah da ya think? LOL

cashman said:

What kills those jackshaft housings is the chain is too tight when the self propel is engaged. When you go to reassemble it, make sure that the chain isn't too tight when you engage the self propel. The chain doesn't have to be real tight and a little slack won't hurt at all. The chain is a regular #35 chain and the shaft and bearing is the same one from a water pump used on a 289ci Ford.

Click to expand...

cashman,
That very well could be true, but the chain had slack running in it. Have a grade along the front mowing up, as the mower rolls back down. Was using the drive as a power brake, that's what I think killed it.

That block of aluminum is 6061 dense and stout should hold up.


Starting to take shape, bearing hole machined and fitted.





Finish shape determined and marked. Back to the band saw and get the general shape cut out.




The holes are reliefs for the band saw cuts, and a corner radius. The center punched mark, will be where a pointed set screw will thread. It purpose is to capture the bearing, to prevent it from walking.



pep

An IT guy with Prussian Blue...I love it.

Pretty much there .....




Back from the band saw, sides and mount pads trimmed too ruff size.





Some light milling to follow, machine the sides and mounting pads. Once milled to size, slot the mounting pabs. Drill and tap for allen screw with point that fits the slot seen on the bearings.



Paint mount adjust chain tesion, start the mower for a run test

pep

cpurvis said:

An IT guy with Prussian Blue...I love it.

Click to expand...

Machinists call it Prussian Blue ......... Jet Eng. Mechs call it Blue Dykem !

Here we call it ....engineers blue

I would have purchased 2 of these and reworked the mounting bracket.

Why reinvent the wheel, when simply making a stronger more robust part. Will, drop in and meet the existing engineering requirement.


Using pillow bearings, would require more than drilling a few holes in the deck. First problem to solve, the chain drive side not shown. The diameter is aprox 4 inches, a pillow bearing having the same ID used for the belt & chain drives. Will require a riser to be built in order to gain the proper clearances.

Second problem to be addressed: the alignment of the two shafts. The one we are talking about and the one that drives the wheels.

What I'm making is a much easier way to rectify the broken casting. It has taken a few hours of machining, and confident when the paint drys, it drops in place and off to the races.

just saying

pep

I guess I should have said with the tools that I have I would have done it this way. All I would need is a plate of appropriate thickness and size to raise the platform to the correct height and attach the pillow bearings. You can also place the pillow bearings as far apart as you want so less stress would be put on the support. I would have made it support the outsides of the shaft and left the center unsupported. That wouls be a much stronger setup.

With that said I was looking at your pictures and it looks like you created your hole with the grain that looks to me would be the weak point and allow it to fail again. I have circled some of the grain marks that I think will give you problems. Way more grain marks than I can mark.

Boobala said:

Machinists call it Prussian Blue ......... Jet Eng. Mechs call it Blue Dykem !

Click to expand...

I once sent a young aircraft mechanic looking for it, I called it K9P dye.

Man was he hot when he eventually figured he had been gotten

Finished the machining, slotted the mounting tabs. Painted & installed, test drive.









This mower will cut.........:laughing:

pep

BlazNT said:

With that said I was looking at your pictures and it looks like you created your hole with the grain that looks to me would be the weak point and allow it to fail again. I have circled some of the grain marks that I think will give you problems. Way more grain marks than I can mark.
View attachment 38554

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Grain marks ?

The aluminum is 6061, one of its many uses, commercial aircraft landing gears ...

pep

Twas the sun-filled night, of a star filled day, when 2 dead boys went out to play, .. back to back, they faced each other, drew their swords and shot each other.
Ya'll KWITCHERBITCHIN, and enjoy a marvelous piece of machinery !!

Boobala said:

Twas the sun-filled night, of a star filled day, when 2 dead boys went out to play, .. back to back, they faced each other, drew their swords and shot each other.
Ya'll KWITCHERBITCHIN, and enjoy a marvelous piece of machinery !!

View attachment 38569

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Is that your T bucket, what year is the body ?

pep

A couple of questions:

What keeps the shaft from moving horizontally?

Did you provide for lubrication, such as a grease zerk?

Thanks!

1pep said:

Is that your T bucket, what year is the body ?

pep

Click to expand...

WISH it was....... on Craigslist $22,500.00 "23" body .. :thumbsup:..:thumbsup:

https://ocala.craigslist.org/cto/d/bucket/6596735230.html

Boobala said:

WISH it was....... on Craigslist $22,500.00 "23" body .. :thumbsup:..:thumbsup:

https://ocala.craigslist.org/cto/d/bucket/6596735230.html

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Ts are really the cheaper cars to buy, HotRod wise. Not fan cause of the way the driver sits and cockpit layout. Looks are cool I can give it that very mechanical.

On the good side they can make someone a nice donor car. Ditch the body and frame and install the drive train in a coupe or sedan.

Below is a friends 23 roadster. Notice how the steering wheel sits, comparing it to the T. More laid-back, like the driving position better over a T..




pep

Pep, Good Job! That should be there till the cows come home! It's good to see someone keeping these old Yazoo's going. I've got a 1968 B-33 24" self-propelled on it's sixth engine. That EY-18 engine on yours was a great engine. Like they used to say "If you ain't Yazooing, you ain't mowing!"

cashman said:

Pep, Good Job! That should be there till the cows come home! It's good to see someone keeping these old Yazoo's going. I've got a 1968 B-33 24" self-propelled on it's sixth engine. That EY-18 engine on yours was a great engine. Like they used to say "If you ain't Yazooing, you ain't mowing!"

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Cashman,

Thanks

The mower really cuts the grass evenly, a real horse.

I would like to see a picture of your Yazoo should you have one. 6th engine on the same deck and frame, man that speaks to the quality of the machine.

Yazoo is like the older American cars, repairable, well built and with some care last long time. I've only met one other person, now 2 counting you with a Yazoo.

We are the lucky (chosen) ones :laughing:

:thumbsup:

pep

1pep said:

Cashman,

Thanks

The mower really cuts the grass evenly, a real horse.

I would like to see a picture of your Yazoo should you have one. 6th engine on the same deck and frame, man that speaks to the quality of the machine.

Yazoo is like the older American cars, repairable, well built and with some care last long time. I've only met one other person, now 2 counting you with a Yazoo.

We are the lucky (chosen) ones :laughing:

:thumbsup:

pep

Click to expand...

CHOSEN ??? Could it be CURSED Instead ?? ..

Pep, Yazoo sold there first mower in 1945. It wasn't too different from the mower you have. Later about 1955, they came out with a front cut riding mower that was a zero turn three wheeler with either a 48 or 60" cut deck. I have a 60" YR60 that I still use that was built in 1973. They sold the lawnmower factory to Husqvarna many years ago. My dad sold his first Yazoo in 1950. I still work for the only remaining company of the old Yazoo group after 35 years, Auto Electric and Carburetor which is a distributor of AC Delco, Motorcraft, and Mopar automotive parts.

cashman said:

Pep, Yazoo sold there first mower in 1945. It wasn't too different from the mower you have. Later about 1955, they came out with a front cut riding mower that was a zero turn three wheeler with either a 48 or 60" cut deck. I have a 60" YR60 that I still use that was built in 1973. They sold the lawnmower factory to Husqvarna many years ago. My dad sold his first Yazoo in 1950. I still work for the only remaining company of the old Yazoo group after 35 years, Auto Electric and Carburetor which is a distributor of AC Delco, Motorcraft, and Mopar automotive parts.

Click to expand...

Interesting bit of history thank you Cashman,

Sounds like Yazoo was a pretty robust company, then came the bean counters. And another good product fades away. I know I will be keeping the mower, has many spring times left in it. The design is simple and very repairable, is a 26" cut, and no safety switches.

pep

Boobala said:

CHOSEN ??? Could it be CURSED Instead ?? ..

Click to expand...

Mower envy .........^............ROTFLMAO :laughing:

pep

1pep said:

Mower envy .........^............ROTFLMAO :laughing:

pep

Click to expand...

Just bustin your chops pep... GREAT job on the shaft support, trouble with a "T" is, the arse-end is always trying to become the front end, BUT.. THEY are head-turners ! .. :wink:..:wink:

Boobala said:

Just bustin your chops pep... GREAT job on the shaft support, trouble with a "T" is, the arse-end is always trying to become the front end, BUT.. THEY are head-turners ! .. :wink:..:wink:

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I'm on board................ no worry. I have a sense of humor. It gets missed sometimes. But that's to be expected cause we do not see faces on the WWW.

Then again that might be a good thing:laughing:

pep

1pep said:

I'm on board................ no worry. I have a sense of humor. It gets missed sometimes. But that's to be expected cause we do not see faces on the WWW.

Then again that might be a good thing:laughing:

pep

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I found your H.S. yearbook photo ....... .. NICE shot !! .. :laughing:..:laughing:

pep, did you miss my questions a few posts back?

My neighbor has a friend with a Yazoo.... I'll get with him to get it back here so I can take a pic..... I remember those when I was in elementary school... 3 of them on the schools grounds cutting grass at all times....

We had a Yazoo Dealer and Snapper dealer in our town.....

cpurvis said:

pep, did you miss my questions a few posts back?

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cpuris,

I sure did, got side tracked with the non existent grains in the aluminum used.

There are two sealed bearings, in a sleeve with a concave slot, dead center.



Has an allen head screw with a pointed end, block is drilled and tapped. Screw sets and locates the bearing housing and shaft. Preventing horizontal movement of same.

pep

1pep said:

cpuris,

I sure did, got side tracked with the non existent grains in the aluminum used.

There are two sealed bearings, in a sleeve with a concave slot, dead center.

View attachment 38650

Has an allen head screw with a pointed end, block is drilled and tapped. Screw sets and locates the bearing housing and shaft. Preventing horizontal movement of same.

pep

Click to expand...

Thanks! Good work!

Everytime I use my old Murray's, ( 13-14) yrs. old ) I'm glad I bought used, .. and rebuilt them, learned a lot, cried a lot, but the trip is always a good one, shame they don't build em like back in 50's & 60's ..... My dad had about a 50's model Jacobsen Lawn-Queen, reel-type gas mower, THAT thing was grenade-proof !! Here's a link to one restored, .. AHhhhh memories !! .. :thumbsup:

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69932

cpurvis said:

Thanks! Good work!

Click to expand...

Thanks cpurvis,

Glad I could offer up some useful information.
pep

Boobala said:

Everytime I use my old Murray's, ( 13-14) yrs. old ) I'm glad I bought used, .. and rebuilt them, learned a lot, cried a lot, but the trip is always a good one, shame they don't build em like back in 50's & 60's ..... My dad had about a 50's model Jacobsen Lawn-Queen, reel-type gas mower, THAT thing was grenade-proof !! Here's a link to one restored, .. AHhhhh memories !! .. :thumbsup:

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69932

Click to expand...

Cut my first lawn with a Briggs and Station reel-type, 50's, were touted as a good quality mower. The reel-types, always produced a clean & consistent grass hight or depth. Like the Yazoo and what I like so much about the mower. Looking over the yard, it flows out like a carpet.

And no not a yard nitpicker......

I do prefer a self-powered walk behind over a ride around. Have an acre can cut it in just under and hour. To me the walk behind is more maneuverable and therefor cuts the mowing time.


pep

1pep said:

cpuris,

I sure did, got side tracked with the non existent grains in the aluminum used.

There are two sealed bearings, in a sleeve with a concave slot, dead center.

View attachment 38650

Has an allen head screw with a pointed end, block is drilled and tapped. Screw sets and locates the bearing housing and shaft. Preventing horizontal movement of same.

pep

Click to expand...

Well actually the aluminium block does have a grain, but you will need to polish it to at least 600 grit then acid etch it to see it.
If it was cold extruded then you will also need a good strong magnifier.

This is going off the thread I know, but I to prefer the good old self-powered walk behinds compared to today's gentleman's toy's....

Sorry Admin.....had to say it...!

My Dad's first mower had a horizontal shaft Clinton engine with a twisted belt drive spinning a circular steel disk with blades from a sickle bar mower attached to it.

The thing was HEAVY but I like the idea of the sickle bar blades on the disk. I don't remember how they were attached. On a sickle bar, they're riveted.

An interesting amazon story, truth be known, the last place I look for parts.The jack shaft repair, working flawlessly. Last spring hear what sounds like a bearing failing, Shaft, hub #35. Lubed them having access from under the 2 grove pulley.

As any knowns parts for the Yazoo are pretty much unavaliable, easy 90%. Stumbled onto some listings for some part, of all places amazon? Useing the Yazoo bearing number, boom to my supprise... score.

It gets better, have the mower in the air, working my way in for access to the bearings. Pull the blad and find, it was not the bearing.

It was what is called a blade adapter #32, had shattered and was destructing. Thinking this could be a real problem, about 30% of it was chunks, scraping in the housing, hence the failing bearing noise.

Cleaned out the chunks, look closely, considering the possibility and damage that might occur down the road. And what snow balls chance in hell that I could find this, a bronze casting.

Finding the bearing, gave amazon another shot .............. blow me away they had about a dozen, so got 2.

I had a yazoo HPTOK which is the big 76" hydro with 22hp kohler. I had 3 of those blade adapters break over time. I made some from mild steel and they worked fine.

Hammermechanicman said:

I had a yazoo HPTOK which is the big 76" hydro with 22hp kohler. I had 3 of those blade adapters break over time. I made some from mild steel and they worked fine.

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Oh, so it is common that explains why I found it. Mower is a 26" big wheel,10hp Wisconson light, still stout. Bought the thing in 86, today replaced the broke blade adapter.


The blades are non existent, rebuilt the cutting edge & balance.

I found a set of blades for my left hand 76" deck 10 years ago and they were $60 a piece. $180 for a set of mower blades. Parts were nonexistent so i sold it.