XT1 Cub Cadet electrical issues / won't start

[tvoudy]

I have a model Cub Cadet XT1 (Model 13AVAICS056) DOM 9/2016 that will not start. I have performed the following steps / checks with a multimeter:

I turn the key and see a faint light on the controller, but the starter does not engage

- No voltage at the starter when key turned (tested with multimeter on the red cable connected to starter)
- Brake safety switch tests fine (continuity test showed the switch is working fine)
- Mower blade safety switch tests fine (Continuity test showed the switch is working fine)
- I removed the key / control board and tested continuity on it. Works fine
- Fuse tested fine, replaced fuse anyway
- Battery is ~1.5 years old and tests fine voltage wise, however, as explained earlier, no voltage to the starter.
- I replaced the starter solenoid early in the process (before I ran through the tests above)
- Lastly, I bypassed the seat safety switch via a video I saw on youtube.

Any thoughts on next steps?

Thank you!

 

[Mowmeover]

Did you check the key switch itself or maybe a reverse safety switch

 

[bertsmobile1]

Well if you have disconnected the seat switch, then according to Face book your mower is trash as removing / bypassing the seat switch cures every problem .

Now I am old fashioned and like to diagnose problems before solving them
For electrical problems this starts with downloading the circuit diagram
The following through ( backwards ) from the starter back to the battery
But then again I am 69 so I can think thus I have no need for Feaces Book

 

[bertsmobile1]

This is a standard reply.
Your answer will be in here somewhere

Before you start, pull the spark plug & try to rotate the engine by hand.
No use checking the electrics if you have a hydraulic lock, seized engine or jambed belt overloading the stater motor.
Assuming the engine turns freely.
I like to start from the starter motor and go backwards .
Do the following 5 tests, regardless of the results from an or all of them as there can be more than one problem and you want to isolate where the problem lies.
Elimination of individual parts is important so you know by the end, the battery, solenoid & heavy power circuits are all in good order.
1) try to jump the starter motor directly from your car or truck.
+ on the starter first then - to a good ground near the starter ( drain plug of lift hook are good )
Starter turns = starter good
2) do the same directly from the mowers battery
Starter turns = mower battery good
No turn = duff battery, recharge it & try again.
3) check for voltage ( + 12V ) at the solenoid trigger wire with the key in start position
3a) same with ground trigger wire ( 4 wire solenoid ) or body of solenoid ( 3 wire solenoid)
( I like to test V from the battery hot terminal to ground terminal rather than ohms as they give funny readings )
4) leave ground jumper in place ( from step 2 ) & try key start.
Starter turns = power connection good but ground connection suspect ( most common )
Confirm it by trying again, extra ground removed
5) Remove the trigger ( thin ) wire / wires from the solenoid.
Ground one on a 4 wire solenoid & bridge from the hot terminal to the other.
Starter cranks = solenoid good.
Solenoid is not polarity sensitive, BUT THE WIRING IS so make sure you remove the thin control wires.
Note a thinner wire on the hot terminal is not a control wire. It is the main power feed to the mower.
From here on things become very mower dependant as starting circuits are getting changed all the time.

Basically the power goes in a loop from the hot side of the solenoid ( saves wire, no other reason ) through the fuse to the B terminal on the key switch then to the PTO switch then to the parking brake switch then to the solenoid trigger switch , easy peasy after you grow the 3rd arm. Use a test lamp and follow the power.
However a lot of mowers with a 4 pole solenoid, run a secondary ground control circuit to the ground solenoid wire through the lap bars.
Then to stop this interfearing with the normal safety function of the ground kill, it goes to a relay with the ground as the switched connection.
These are a PIA as the + control wire to the relay comes from the power loop above and the ground side of the control comes via the normal cut out functions of the lap bars.
Be very careful because if you have a system like this and accidentally send 12V down the ground loop you can fry the magnetos on some circuits.nd from the grounding bolt to one of the starter mounting bolts & paint over both with liquid electrical tape.