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I took a 19.5 briggs I/C Platinum (model 42E707) off of one frame and put it on another. I brought the wiring harness with it. The wiring harness one the newer frame was a little different, so I'm using the same one that was attached to that engine. The only thing I didn't transfer from the old frame to the new one, (as far as the wiring goes) are the safety switches. The safety switches are in the same place and have the same type plugs, that fit the harness. So, no modifications needed. At least none that I know of.

Let me explain a few things: I got this mower (LT1000) from someone who was tearing it apart because he couldn't get it to start.

I installed a new magneto because I wasn't getting spark from the original one. This particular model has two heads, but only one coil. (with two spark plug wires). From the main harness, there are 4 wires. In the engine harness there are 3. One is the kill wire for the coil. And the other two are together in their own plug. The go underneath the flywheel.

There is a red jumper wire going to the empty slot on the plug that connects the main harness to the engine harness.

Also, I've replaced the battery and the spark plugs.

The engine turns over great. Lots of RPM's. But no spark.

I have a voltage tester that has a lot of settings on it. I just don't know quite how to use it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

UPDATE>.. I forgot to mention that I haven't put the deck on it yet. But the lever to engage the mower is down. I turned it over, and tried to engage the blades, and it stopped turning over. So, I think that safety switch is right. Also, I released the clutch/break and tried to turn it over, and it wouldn't. Then sat in the seat to see if it would turn over, and it did. But wouldn't when I got up. So, I'm thinking that is OK also...

OK lets see if I can explain this. On safety switches there are 2 kinds.
1 Normally Open. This means that the wires are not touching each other until the switch is activated.
2 Normally Closed. This means the wires are touching each other until switch is activated.
I would check to see if the are different on each mower.

BlazNT said:

OK lets see if I can explain this. On safety switches there are 2 kinds.
1 Normally Open. This means that the wires are not touching each other until the switch is activated.
2 Normally Closed. This means the wires are touching each other until switch is activated.
I would check to see if the are different on each mower.

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I understand what you're say, except I don't know how to check them. Do I need to use my test light?

Continuity tester would be better. It is part of a simple electrical tester.

Ok, so I took off the kill wire off the magneto, and still no fire.

I put my test light on the tab where the kill wire connects and turned the motor over, and I got flashes of light.

Ok, so I got a new mganeto installed. And I'm getting spark now. But, it won't it's not coming through the spark plug. I can touch the plug wire to the motor, frame, exhaust or just about anything grounded. But, when I touch it to the end of the spark plug, no spark at all... When I plug it in, and touch the spark plug to things like the exhaust, engine, head or anything else grounded, no spark at all..

When the plug is screwed in, and the wire connected, I put a little gas in the carb, and no fuel fires. Not even with starting fluid....

Check the gap on the spark plug.

BlazNT said:

Check the gap on the spark plug.

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When I have the plug screwed in, but the wire off the plug, there's no spark when I make contact with the wire end, and the plug... Even if the gap was off a little (unless it was touching), there'd still be a spark between contacts.

I hope I'm not coming off rude. But this one little problem is driving me batty. I've got a lot of time and money into this, and have just about got it finished...

New carb parts, lots of deck parts (bearings, blades, springs) magneto, plugs, cables, and other things..

did you gap the magneto?

BlazNT said:

did you gap the magneto?

Click to expand...

Yes, with a business card.

There is something that is being missed. So lets try a few things. You need to check your wiring with continuity test. I am ataching picture of what it looks like and what the reading should be if wires are good. Check every wire from beginning to end. Also check the spark plug. Yes they can be broken from factory. If the reading is not 000 then check for a fuse-able link in the line or broken wire or bad connection if connection plug is used. I hope this make since.

Thanks Chuck. I'm headed into town to get me a new meter..

I have a question:

The magnets on the flywheel, the rotation (at 250rpm)of the flywheel, along with the coil is what actually makes the electricity needed to spark the plug. Right? And so, if I can get spark from the wire when I nearly touch almost anything on the mower, why wouldn't it spark when I tough the edge of the spark plug (when the spark plug is screwed into the head)?????????? I'm about to go out and make a video of this: Hopefully I'll have it up in less than 10 minutes.

That is why I was saying we are missing something. No real idea what is going on at this moment.

The video. As you can see (or not see) when I barely touch something that grounded, I get a spark on the end of the plug wire.. Except when I touch the plug.. This is the same on both sides.

NOTE.. What looks like a spark (on the plug) is just a reflection.

NOTE: When I'm arcing the end of the plug wire to anything, and touching the end at the same time, shouldn't it knock the crap out of me? It only chocks me a little.

That is why you need to do all the test. Something is wrong and we are not finding it yet.

Problem solved: The new magneto has wires that come out both on one side. The ground wire was on the opposite side. And being the dummy I am, I didn't see or read the "This side out" on the top of the magneto. Like a dummy, I just assumed that the plug wires went facing the front, in the direction of the plugs. And that the kill wire went on the side facing where the kill wire comes from...

Gosh I amaze myself at my own "hurry up and do it wrong" self sometimes.... I assumed.. That was my first mistake...

But, in the end, other than the fuel pump problem, I have, it runs good. Though it won't stay running long. I have a carburetor kit coming. And hopefully I won't try to rush through that...

Thanks for all you guy's advise.

Glad to hear you found it.

Sounds like he will be back soon!!!!

Or maybe he will not, because he is pissed. Cannot blame him... I love it when customers that have wasted a few hundred dollars, are pissed of at the guy that fixes the problem finally, because they charged $60 or so.....

Fish said:

Sounds like he will be back soon!!!!

Or maybe he will not, because he is pissed. Cannot blame him... I love it when customers that have wasted a few hundred dollars, are pissed of at the guy that fixes the problem finally, because they charged $60 or so.....

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I'm not pissed at anyone but myself. Also, I never would take a project into the shop. If I did, I'd have at least a close estimate as to what I'd be charged before I let them fix it....

Been done that way too many times as an owner operator truck driver. LOL, except those times I was usually stuck on the side of the road and forced to pay double my normal mechanic would charge... The last time was in PA. I paid over $600 for a $60 censor to be installed on the side of the road.

That's not going to happen with a lawn mower.