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Hi.

I'm new here. I was looking for some help with a mod I had in mind...

I have a Murray (Scotts) self propelled walk behind circa 2001. The front wheels get "wobbly" over time causing the drive gear to disengage with the gear in the wheel. The OEM wheel has a plastic "bearing" that causes this. It's time to replace the front wheels on mine so I figured I'd ask if any of you have found a wheel to upgrade to that has ball bearings.

Mower model number:229630X8A
OEM Wheel PN: 672441

8x2 wheel
1/2" bore
Hub Length: 1 3/8"

This one looks close but I think the hub is 1/8" too long: New Husqvarna Craftsman Poulan AYP Mower Drive Wheel Kit 8 x 2 532193144 | eBay

Has anyone done this mod? Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!

The important part is making sure the gear in the wheel is correct. Size, teeth width etc.

Bolts can be found easy enough

The hub is only 1/8 in too long. Why couldn't you take it to a machine shop and have them shorten the hub? Even if they have to bore the inside of the hub to make the bearing fit.

exotion said:

The important part is making sure the gear in the wheel is correct. Size, teeth width etc.

Bolts can be found easy enough

Click to expand...

Thanks! I haven't gotten that far to count the teeth etc but the size is 8"x2" so that's a start...

Bolts? It's been a while since I've had it apart but I think it's a welded in stud/spindle type, not just a bolt. Here's the breakdown of the parts if you're interested: http://www.outdoordistributors.com/...30X8A-WALK-BEHIND-MOWER-(2001)-PARTS-LIST.pdf

reynoldston said:

The hub is only 1/8 in too long. Why couldn't you take it to a machine shop and have them shorten the hub? Even if they have to bore the inside of the hub to make the bearing fit.

Click to expand...

I'd have to look into it further to see if that's an option. I'd have to keep the mesh of the gears correct. Not real sure I want to get into a big (red expensive) project though. I was hoping there was something out there that could just be "dropped in." Thanks though...

50Dro said:

I'd have to look into it further to see if that's an option. I'd have to keep the mesh of the gears correct. Not real sure I want to get into a big (red expensive) project though. I was hoping there was something out there that could just be "dropped in." Thanks though...

Click to expand...

If it turns out to be a option I have found small jobs like that aren't that expensive.

reynoldston said:

If it turns out to be a option I have found small jobs like that aren't that expensive.

Click to expand...

Curiosity got the best of me! I took the wheels off!

The stud is part of the adjustment mechanism. It looks like this:



50 teeth on the wheels so the link I added before won't work since it has 53 teeth.

I thought maybe I could use a bronze bushing but the darn plastic one has a hex OD & a flange to keep it from spinning inside the wheel. Looks like this:



If I just had a lathe, I could make one from some bronze or brass 9/16" hex stock (plus a flat washer).

On to the next idea... (which might be just replacing the wheels and dealing with it! )

Looks like replacing wheels and replacing mower might be your options.

My snapper uses steel bushings in the front wheels ( its rear wheel drive), but i've seen some guys drill their plastic wheels out to fit bushings similar to these. I think they found them at tractor supply.

afoulk said:

My snapper uses steel bushings in the front wheels ( its rear wheel drive), but i've seen some guys drill their plastic wheels out to fit bushings similar to these. I think they found them at tractor supply.

Click to expand...

I did that on my mower, I got the bearings at Fastenal in Winconsin or Minnesota at a cost of if I remember only $2.50 or $3.00 each tymes 4 pretty cheap.

I ran into exactly the same Murray (Scotts) condition on my favorite trim mower. Glad that it was easily searched for and found right here!

Thanks to LawnWorld!