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Troybuilt pony 17.5 hp Model#13wn77k5011
#1
T
tbonpc
T
tbonpc
Troybuilt pony 17.5 hp Model#13AN77KG
I have the troybuilt pony 17.5 hp Model#13AN77KG. Cranks fine and runs at fast throttle until I engage the blades then it acts like the carb is overloading. A little dark smoke out the exhaust and spuddering. Only does this when I engage the blades in any deck position. At a lose, I have checked all the connections I can find and traced the wires and see no shorts or breaks. Anyone one else have this problem and what did you do to fix it? Sorry, had put in the wrong model number. The one in this post is correct with a Briggs and Straton 17.5 ser# 080527zd34225
I have the troybuilt pony 17.5 hp Model#13AN77KG. Cranks fine and runs at fast throttle until I engage the blades then it acts like the carb is overloading. A little dark smoke out the exhaust and spuddering. Only does this when I engage the blades in any deck position. At a lose, I have checked all the connections I can find and traced the wires and see no shorts or breaks. Anyone one else have this problem and what did you do to fix it? Sorry, had put in the wrong model number. The one in this post is correct with a Briggs and Straton 17.5 ser# 080527zd34225
#2
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Without knowing which engine you have I am only guessing. Either a bad O ring on the high speed jet or the air bleed is clogged on the high speed jet causing a rich run issue.
#3
M
MowLife
M
MowLife
Well dark smoke (black) like state above is a sign of running rich....too much fuel for air coming in. Many things can cause this. Usually it a clogged air filter or a paper one that got wet. It can also be carb issues. But if it only happens under a load it could be governor issues.
#4
T
tbonpc
Briggs & Straton 17.5 ser: 080527zd34225
T
tbonpc
Without knowing which engine you have I am only guessing. Either a bad O ring on the high speed jet or the air bleed is clogged on the high speed jet causing a rich run issue.
Briggs & Straton 17.5 ser: 080527zd34225
#5
T
tbonpc
T
tbonpc
Ok, replaced the carb with one I found on ebay and it does run. Now after a few minutes of running it misses (almost like backfiring) and surges and shuts down. I have checked for leaks and found none. I'm loss?
#6
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
E Bay carbs new or used might be a bad idea ....... dark smoke is running rich like said before.......
Your model type and code is on your valve cover ........ Those are the numbers we need to help further...
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
Your model type and code is on your valve cover ........ Those are the numbers we need to help further...
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
#7
T
tbonpc
Model 31C707 Type 0603 B2 Code 080527ZD off of the valve cover. Check the valves yesterday and they are good, .004/.004. Cleaned the rust from the Flywheel and armature and brand new gas, still surging and sometimes backfiring load or no load. This Troy Built Pony is the worst Tractor Mower I have ever seen.
T
tbonpc
E Bay carbs new or used might be a bad idea ....... dark smoke is running rich like said before.......
Your model type and code is on your valve cover ........ Those are the numbers we need to help further...
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
Model 31C707 Type 0603 B2 Code 080527ZD off of the valve cover. Check the valves yesterday and they are good, .004/.004. Cleaned the rust from the Flywheel and armature and brand new gas, still surging and sometimes backfiring load or no load. This Troy Built Pony is the worst Tractor Mower I have ever seen.
#8
Boobala
Boobala
Backfire is USUALLY a timing issue, .. REcheck your valve lash settings, as far as the carb goes I have bought carbs from Evil-Bay but have been lucky, some times you get garbage, I buy mine from ( the ROP Shop ) (on Evil-Bay) you might want to check your intake manifold and the gaskets, the plastic manifolds can develop hair-line cracks ..see the videos attached .... the one video (how to replace a camshaft shows an EXCELLENT ( used by many of us) way to adjust the valves ( PLEASE note : it starts AROUND (22.10min )
the other video is a pictorial of rebuiling your carb ( I'm assuming it's the NIKKI carb, although it could be a WALBRO )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWHPHGZAvj4&t=1140s
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_28b702_carb.asp
the other video is a pictorial of rebuiling your carb ( I'm assuming it's the NIKKI carb, although it could be a WALBRO )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWHPHGZAvj4&t=1140s
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_28b702_carb.asp
#9
T
tbonpc
Adjusted the valves this morning, checked them twice intake .004 exhaust .006 and it is a nikki 795366
G02708
8513 1A
The above numbers are off the carb . After checking the valves and putting the cover back on, I started the mower, no backfire (yet) but it does surge like the governor going up and down. Tried adjusting the Fuel Mixture screw from 1 1/2 out from seat to all the way in to seat and nothing changed so I ran the screw out in quarter turns until it was almost to the end of the threads, still no change in motor speed or durge up/down. Will not run are low speed? Never have I seen a more Miserable mower than Troy Built! Go John Deere ..........
T
tbonpc
Backfire is USUALLY a timing issue, .. REcheck your valve lash settings, as far as the carb goes I have bought carbs from Evil-Bay but have been lucky, some times you get garbage, I buy mine from ( the ROP Shop ) (on Evil-Bay) you might want to check your intake manifold and the gaskets, the plastic manifolds can develop hair-line cracks ..see the videos attached .... the one video (how to replace a camshaft shows an EXCELLENT ( used by many of us) way to adjust the valves ( PLEASE note : it starts AROUND (22.10min )
the other video is a pictorial of rebuiling your carb ( I'm assuming it's the NIKKI carb, although it could be a WALBRO )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWHPHGZAvj4&t=1140s
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_28b702_carb.asp
Adjusted the valves this morning, checked them twice intake .004 exhaust .006 and it is a nikki 795366
G02708
8513 1A
The above numbers are off the carb . After checking the valves and putting the cover back on, I started the mower, no backfire (yet) but it does surge like the governor going up and down. Tried adjusting the Fuel Mixture screw from 1 1/2 out from seat to all the way in to seat and nothing changed so I ran the screw out in quarter turns until it was almost to the end of the threads, still no change in motor speed or durge up/down. Will not run are low speed? Never have I seen a more Miserable mower than Troy Built! Go John Deere ..........
#10
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Great carbs though..... The welch plug has to come out and then soaked in carb cleaner are a ultra sonic cleaner.... Then a good spray job with a can of carb cleaner..........
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
If your engine is surging then you didn't clean the carb all the way........ Those are very picky carbs for etho gas....Adjusted the valves this morning, checked them twice intake .004 exhaust .006 and it is a nikki 795366
G02708
8513 1A
The above numbers are off the carb . After checking the valves and putting the cover back on, I started the mower, no backfire (yet) but it does surge like the governor going up and down. Tried adjusting the Fuel Mixture screw from 1 1/2 out from seat to all the way in to seat and nothing changed so I ran the screw out in quarter turns until it was almost to the end of the threads, still no change in motor speed or durge up/down. Will not run are low speed? Never have I seen a more Miserable mower than Troy Built! Go John Deere ..........
Great carbs though..... The welch plug has to come out and then soaked in carb cleaner are a ultra sonic cleaner.... Then a good spray job with a can of carb cleaner..........
#12
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Try spraying some WD 40 where the intake hits the block.. Top and bottom to check for a air leak also where the carb bolts tooooooooo.......
#13
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
tbonpc,
Surging on a governed engine is nearly always due to a low fuel air ratio.
Either because it is not getting enough fuel or air is leaking after the carb.
Occasionally , well quite rarely it can be electrical.
SO to get rid of the electrical bit, start the engine and hold the governor with your fingers.
Start with it running slow then slowly move it up to full speed.
If it runs fine slowly then starts to spit back through the carb you have a fuel problem.
If it backfires through the muffler then you have an electrical problem.
Having decided it is fuel then we start with the easy bits first
1) replace the solenoid in the carb with a bolt
runs fine = solenoid problem
2) pinch the fuel tank from your push mower ( or anything else that is handy ) and hang it from the rafters so it is a good 1' - 2' higher than the carb & connect it to the carb
runs fine = obstruction in the fuel supply.
3) do as Bou described , spraying the WD40 all over the inlet manifold , only hold the governor rod so the engine is running about 1/2 to 1/3 full speed.
As he mentioned, if the engine faulters & blows white smoke then you have an air leak.
Now just because ou bought a new carb, do not assume it is a GOOD carb unless you bought it from a real mower shop or real mower parts supplier.
And by real I mean one that has a street address when you can pick up from.
The only scrap in China is what they import to make new parts from.
Everything that rolls off an assembly line gets sold.
So the carbs that Briggs reject as being substandard / faulty will get sold on line as an OEM carb, what they fail to tell you is it is one that might not work.
If you get the entire kit, put a steel rule across the ends and make sure the rubber seals sit slightly higher than the end, if not, it can not make an air tight seal.There was a batch that ended up down here where the red rubber rings were all too thin
Surging on a governed engine is nearly always due to a low fuel air ratio.
Either because it is not getting enough fuel or air is leaking after the carb.
Occasionally , well quite rarely it can be electrical.
SO to get rid of the electrical bit, start the engine and hold the governor with your fingers.
Start with it running slow then slowly move it up to full speed.
If it runs fine slowly then starts to spit back through the carb you have a fuel problem.
If it backfires through the muffler then you have an electrical problem.
Having decided it is fuel then we start with the easy bits first
1) replace the solenoid in the carb with a bolt
runs fine = solenoid problem
2) pinch the fuel tank from your push mower ( or anything else that is handy ) and hang it from the rafters so it is a good 1' - 2' higher than the carb & connect it to the carb
runs fine = obstruction in the fuel supply.
3) do as Bou described , spraying the WD40 all over the inlet manifold , only hold the governor rod so the engine is running about 1/2 to 1/3 full speed.
As he mentioned, if the engine faulters & blows white smoke then you have an air leak.
Now just because ou bought a new carb, do not assume it is a GOOD carb unless you bought it from a real mower shop or real mower parts supplier.
And by real I mean one that has a street address when you can pick up from.
The only scrap in China is what they import to make new parts from.
Everything that rolls off an assembly line gets sold.
So the carbs that Briggs reject as being substandard / faulty will get sold on line as an OEM carb, what they fail to tell you is it is one that might not work.
If you get the entire kit, put a steel rule across the ends and make sure the rubber seals sit slightly higher than the end, if not, it can not make an air tight seal.There was a batch that ended up down here where the red rubber rings were all too thin
#14
T
tbonpc
T
tbonpc
Re: Troybuilt pony 17.5 hp Model#13wn77kG011
Is there any other carburetor that will work on this mower. B&S Engine Model # 31C707 0603 B2
Is there any other carburetor that will work on this mower. B&S Engine Model # 31C707 0603 B2
#15
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Re: Troybuilt pony 17.5 hp Model#13wn77kG011
I think I have a replacement carb for your engine in my used parts section..... It is a Nikki Carb and I do know it was a running carb when the engine threw a rod.......
I will let you know in a day or or so..........
Let me know Mon Ami ~!~!
Is there any other carburetor that will work on this mower. B&S Engine Model # 31C707 0603 B2
I think I have a replacement carb for your engine in my used parts section..... It is a Nikki Carb and I do know it was a running carb when the engine threw a rod.......
I will let you know in a day or or so..........
Let me know Mon Ami ~!~!
#16
T
tbonpc
T
tbonpc
Re: Troybuilt pony 17.5 hp Model#13wn77kG011
Thanks, at this point I am will to try anything to get it running again.
I think I have a replacement carb for your engine in my used parts section..... It is a Nikki Carb and I do know it was a running carb when the engine threw a rod.......
I will let you know in a day or or so..........
Let me know Mon Ami ~!~!
Thanks, at this point I am will to try anything to get it running again.
#17
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Re: Troybuilt pony 17.5 hp Model#13wn77kG011
Well you could go back to post # 13 and do three tests outlined there and post your results.
Thanks, at this point I am will to try anything to get it running again.
Well you could go back to post # 13 and do three tests outlined there and post your results.
#18
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Re: Troybuilt pony 17.5 hp Model#13wn77kG011
Yes Tbon go thru all the things Bert said to do..... Some carbs from Ebay are good as said and some are not.... A brand new carb from ebay at 15 to 20 bux is a maybe a NO NO. Some will will be OK........ You can cross the state line into Mississippi and gamble that also....
Yes I lived in Alabama and Miss. cause my job brought me there many moons ago. Katrina tore my house up on Bayou Cumbest in south Alabama....But I came back home after 7 years away from my home in Louisiana.....
I would advise you to go ahead and remove the welch plug and clean well like said before.......... Briggs number 690727 for 3 bux is cheap and a good cleaning on the carb also..... That is the main reason for surging right there.......I have done it toooooo many times on those carbs..... They are very finicky and I have advised a few people on this forum of that and they are up and running right now......
Again like Bert said take a tank off of another push mower with fresh gas and keep it above the engine to run yours.....
Please do some diagnostic tests like we say to try and solve this.... We are on this forum to help people, and we have a great track record....... We don't charge for advice, as the old adage says,,,,,,, Good advice is free....
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
Well you could go back to post # 13 and do three tests outlined there and post your results.
Yes Tbon go thru all the things Bert said to do..... Some carbs from Ebay are good as said and some are not.... A brand new carb from ebay at 15 to 20 bux is a maybe a NO NO. Some will will be OK........ You can cross the state line into Mississippi and gamble that also....
Yes I lived in Alabama and Miss. cause my job brought me there many moons ago. Katrina tore my house up on Bayou Cumbest in south Alabama....But I came back home after 7 years away from my home in Louisiana.....
I would advise you to go ahead and remove the welch plug and clean well like said before.......... Briggs number 690727 for 3 bux is cheap and a good cleaning on the carb also..... That is the main reason for surging right there.......I have done it toooooo many times on those carbs..... They are very finicky and I have advised a few people on this forum of that and they are up and running right now......
Again like Bert said take a tank off of another push mower with fresh gas and keep it above the engine to run yours.....
Please do some diagnostic tests like we say to try and solve this.... We are on this forum to help people, and we have a great track record....... We don't charge for advice, as the old adage says,,,,,,, Good advice is free....
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
#19
T
tbonpc
I have done all this, hanging a tank higher above the steering wheel, sprayed WD40 all over intake, plugged the antibackfire hole with a bolt, tested all 5 of the safety switches (all Good), adjusted the valves .004 in .006 ext, put 1 oz of sea foam in a gallon of fresh gas, changed to oil, changed the air filter, puled the welch plug(allclean) sprayed ever port and openning I can see on the carb. Ran a thin wire through everthing, . Starting to think it maybe be a worn governor gear. Anyway thanks for the tips and advise.
T
tbonpc
tbonpc,
Surging on a governed engine is nearly always due to a low fuel air ratio.
Either because it is not getting enough fuel or air is leaking after the carb.
Occasionally , well quite rarely it can be electrical.
SO to get rid of the electrical bit, start the engine and hold the governor with your fingers.
Start with it running slow then slowly move it up to full speed.
If it runs fine slowly then starts to spit back through the carb you have a fuel problem.
If it backfires through the muffler then you have an electrical problem.
Having decided it is fuel then we start with the easy bits first
1) replace the solenoid in the carb with a bolt
runs fine = solenoid problem
2) pinch the fuel tank from your push mower ( or anything else that is handy ) and hang it from the rafters so it is a good 1' - 2' higher than the carb & connect it to the carb
runs fine = obstruction in the fuel supply.
3) do as Bou described , spraying the WD40 all over the inlet manifold , only hold the governor rod so the engine is running about 1/2 to 1/3 full speed.
As he mentioned, if the engine faulters & blows white smoke then you have an air leak.
Now just because ou bought a new carb, do not assume it is a GOOD carb unless you bought it from a real mower shop or real mower parts supplier.
And by real I mean one that has a street address when you can pick up from.
The only scrap in China is what they import to make new parts from.
Everything that rolls off an assembly line gets sold.
So the carbs that Briggs reject as being substandard / faulty will get sold on line as an OEM carb, what they fail to tell you is it is one that might not work.
If you get the entire kit, put a steel rule across the ends and make sure the rubber seals sit slightly higher than the end, if not, it can not make an air tight seal.There was a batch that ended up down here where the red rubber rings were all too thin
I have done all this, hanging a tank higher above the steering wheel, sprayed WD40 all over intake, plugged the antibackfire hole with a bolt, tested all 5 of the safety switches (all Good), adjusted the valves .004 in .006 ext, put 1 oz of sea foam in a gallon of fresh gas, changed to oil, changed the air filter, puled the welch plug(allclean) sprayed ever port and openning I can see on the carb. Ran a thin wire through everthing, . Starting to think it maybe be a worn governor gear. Anyway thanks for the tips and advise.
#20
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Tbon I saw your video and that's not a sign of a governor...... That's the sign of a dirty carb or a air leak some where....
#21
T
tbonpc
I know I am grasping at straws at this point, Just ordered the $60 carb kit from a local dealer (Not Fleabay) but even they could not find the Nikki 795366 carb in their computer system so they have ordered the 796184 kit which they say will have the parts that will work for this nikki. Will post the results once it comes in and I get it rebuilt. Try searching for the nikki 795366 carb, I can find parts i.e a rubuild kit but can't find this carb anywhere. Done many carb replacements and rebuilds on other machines but this is the first Troybuilt with a nikki carb. Why B&S didn't go with Walbor beats me. Never a problem with Walbro's.
T
tbonpc
Tbon I saw your video and that's not a sign of a governor...... That's the sign of a dirty carb or a air leak some where....
I know I am grasping at straws at this point, Just ordered the $60 carb kit from a local dealer (Not Fleabay) but even they could not find the Nikki 795366 carb in their computer system so they have ordered the 796184 kit which they say will have the parts that will work for this nikki. Will post the results once it comes in and I get it rebuilt. Try searching for the nikki 795366 carb, I can find parts i.e a rubuild kit but can't find this carb anywhere. Done many carb replacements and rebuilds on other machines but this is the first Troybuilt with a nikki carb. Why B&S didn't go with Walbor beats me. Never a problem with Walbro's.
#22
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Talk to your mower repair shop and ask them or some of your friends if they have an Ultra Sonic cleaner.... Those things clean really well........
#23
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Open the link on the Nikki carb that Boo Boo sent you..... Look at # 15 and # 17 .........
Make sure your jet is in right..... small end goes in the tube first....
Here's a link to a video on these carbs...... This guy didn't take the welch plug out though.... It didn't need a deep soaking clean like yours....
There was a guy on here about 2 to 3 months ago ...... He. said he cleaned his carb very well 2 times. He started chasing other things on his engine.....I kept telling him about the welch plug area and the tiny holes in there. He must have cleaned his carb 10 times and finally took the welch plug out and cleaned the carb very well.......
Next day say came back and reported a engine that ran like new.........
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
Make sure your jet is in right..... small end goes in the tube first....
Here's a link to a video on these carbs...... This guy didn't take the welch plug out though.... It didn't need a deep soaking clean like yours....
There was a guy on here about 2 to 3 months ago ...... He. said he cleaned his carb very well 2 times. He started chasing other things on his engine.....I kept telling him about the welch plug area and the tiny holes in there. He must have cleaned his carb 10 times and finally took the welch plug out and cleaned the carb very well.......
Next day say came back and reported a engine that ran like new.........
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
#24
T
tbonpc
Got the Kit in, cleaned the carb again, removed the welch plug again ran a small wire through every hole and sprayed through every hole. All ports open. New welch plugh, turned idle fuel/air set screw all the in and backout 1 1/2 turns. New gaskets in intake to block intake to carb. Idles good with just a slight blimp. set intake.exhaust vales again using the "Tyral Video as a guide to .004/.006. Put in forward medium forward speed, engaged the PTO, a little hesitation and let up on the brake. At first it stumbled with a few pops back out of carb the ran. Stopped when to lower the deck and all hell broke lose. Poping through carb then dies. Tried leveling the deck side to side, from front to rear so the blade id 1/4" lower in front than back, same thing when lowering the deck to any other setting than the highest. Can not find a censor on the deck or frame anywhere that the deck could make/break. Idles good when sitting still?
T
tbonpc
Open the link on the Nikki carb that Boo Boo sent you..... Look at # 15 and # 17 .........
Make sure your jet is in right..... small end goes in the tube first....
Here's a link to a video on these carbs...... This guy didn't take the welch plug out though.... It didn't need a deep soaking clean like yours....
There was a guy on here about 2 to 3 months ago ...... He. said he cleaned his carb very well 2 times. He started chasing other things on his engine.....I kept telling him about the welch plug area and the tiny holes in there. He must have cleaned his carb 10 times and finally took the welch plug out and cleaned the carb very well.......
Next day say came back and reported a engine that ran like new.........
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
Got the Kit in, cleaned the carb again, removed the welch plug again ran a small wire through every hole and sprayed through every hole. All ports open. New welch plugh, turned idle fuel/air set screw all the in and backout 1 1/2 turns. New gaskets in intake to block intake to carb. Idles good with just a slight blimp. set intake.exhaust vales again using the "Tyral Video as a guide to .004/.006. Put in forward medium forward speed, engaged the PTO, a little hesitation and let up on the brake. At first it stumbled with a few pops back out of carb the ran. Stopped when to lower the deck and all hell broke lose. Poping through carb then dies. Tried leveling the deck side to side, from front to rear so the blade id 1/4" lower in front than back, same thing when lowering the deck to any other setting than the highest. Can not find a censor on the deck or frame anywhere that the deck could make/break. Idles good when sitting still?
#25
BlazNT
Carbs have 2 circuits. Idle through full throttle then under load. So your idle circuit is working but your load circuit is still stopped up and not getting enough fuel or getting too much air. No sensor for deck position. What it is, is your belt is still loose enough to not put a full load on engine till you lower the deck then it tightens up to produce full load. I would keep looking for dirt in the carb. One thing I do when cleaning a carb it to run strands of wire through all the little holes making sure to add or subtract wire as needed to fit the hole.
BlazNT
Got the Kit in, cleaned the carb again, removed the welch plug again ran a small wire through every hole and sprayed through every hole. All ports open. New welch plugh, turned idle fuel/air set screw all the in and backout 1 1/2 turns. New gaskets in intake to block intake to carb. Idles good with just a slight blimp. set intake.exhaust vales again using the "Tyral Video as a guide to .004/.006. Put in forward medium forward speed, engaged the PTO, a little hesitation and let up on the brake. At first it stumbled with a few pops back out of carb the ran. Stopped when to lower the deck and all hell broke lose. Poping through carb then dies. Tried leveling the deck side to side, from front to rear so the blade id 1/4" lower in front than back, same thing when lowering the deck to any other setting than the highest. Can not find a censor on the deck or frame anywhere that the deck could make/break. Idles good when sitting still?
Carbs have 2 circuits. Idle through full throttle then under load. So your idle circuit is working but your load circuit is still stopped up and not getting enough fuel or getting too much air. No sensor for deck position. What it is, is your belt is still loose enough to not put a full load on engine till you lower the deck then it tightens up to produce full load. I would keep looking for dirt in the carb. One thing I do when cleaning a carb it to run strands of wire through all the little holes making sure to add or subtract wire as needed to fit the hole.
#26
T
tbonpc
The Carb is clean, ran the wire through every hole and sprayed carb cleaner through each and watched it spray out the other end of the hole. Even through the little hole and slot under the welch plug. Cuts ok when the PTO is engaged and the deck in the top cutting position. But go to lower the deck, that is when it starts cutting out and messing up. Engaing the PTO is when the load is put on, lowering the deck adds no more load but does cause it to start cutting out and after maybe 20 seconds, die.
T
tbonpc
Carbs have 2 circuits. Idle through full throttle then under load. So your idle circuit is working but your load circuit is still stopped up and not getting enough fuel or getting too much air. No sensor for deck position. What it is, is your belt is still loose enough to not put a full load on engine till you lower the deck then it tightens up to produce full load. I would keep looking for dirt in the carb. One thing I do when cleaning a carb it to run strands of wire through all the little holes making sure to add or subtract wire as needed to fit the hole.
The Carb is clean, ran the wire through every hole and sprayed carb cleaner through each and watched it spray out the other end of the hole. Even through the little hole and slot under the welch plug. Cuts ok when the PTO is engaged and the deck in the top cutting position. But go to lower the deck, that is when it starts cutting out and messing up. Engaing the PTO is when the load is put on, lowering the deck adds no more load but does cause it to start cutting out and after maybe 20 seconds, die.