Export thread

Troybilt ltx 1842 problems

#1

B

bmdakk

Hello, New to the forum Here. Name is Bryan. Im having trouble diagnosing a problem with my Troybilt LTX 1842. A Little Background. Last year the Drive belt from the motor to the rearend broke. I replaced it and ever since I have had the problem of the Little belt in the back coming off under strain. By that I mean going up a hill, doesnt do it all the time but I had to jump off it last year and had it slam into my building. I have checked the routing of the drive belt numerous times, thinking I had it on wrong, It seems to be on the right route. Also the thing wont go out of gear. when I let off the pedal the mower slows but will not stop. Any Ideas on what else I should look for? This is a great mower, but I am at My wits end with it.


I have it up on jack stands and noticed when I turn the crank pulley the drive belt will turn as does the small belt over the rear end. To me it should not turn till I depress the pedal. Im thinking it is almost like the drive belt is too short, But Have tried one size bigger belt than what it should take, and it is too long and wont engage. It is almost like I need a Half size bigger, but they dont make one.

Thanks.


#2

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

I believe the problem is related to the non OEM belts, or OEM style. MTD belts are not standard width or length. Just because a crossover chart shows a MTD belt is 5/8 width, doesn't mean the OEM belt is 5/8 width.


#3

B

bmdakk

Thanks, Thats what I thought. I was told when looking for the belt that they were all the same (Mowers that is, MTD, Craftsman, Troybilt). is there any place I can get a Troybilt belt, made for this mower? everyplace around here just has the MTD belts, or Gates. I guess Ill need to order online.


#4

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Troybilt is made by MTD, so as long as you have the correct part number of the belt, it doesn't matter if it says, Cub Cadet, Troybilt, or MTD.

Also make sure you change both belts at the same time. They are self syncing and if will throw things off kilter, if not replaced together.


#5

B

bmdakk

ILENGINE said:
Troybilt is made by MTD, so as long as you have the correct part number of the belt, it doesn't matter if it says, Cub Cadet, Troybilt, or MTD.

Also make sure you change both belts at the same time. They are self syncing and if will throw things off kilter, if not replaced together.
Click to expand...


Thanks I will try that I didnt change both just the one


#6

F

Fred12

I also have a LTX 1842 with the exact same problem. I recently replaced all belts with MTD belts (both the drives and mower deck). I compared the belts before install - they appeared the same thickness and depth as the originals. The only differences in the drive belts were the lengths which were very slightly shorter - maybe 3/8 inch or so. I assumed this to be normal as the old ones were likely stretched with age.
Once installed, the tractor transmission/wheels stay engaged (creeps forward) even with my foot off the drive pedal. It also wont go into neutral until I cut the tractor off because the transmission is under a load.
I tried spraying some synthetic lubricant onto the belt which helped - it worked for a while but it now has the original problem. Right now I'm weighing the choice of trying another belt or just buying another mower. It's about that time - this one is 11 yrs old with a lot of hours on it. The Troybilt has been a decent mower but I don't think I'd buy another one. It tends to cut uneven/scalp sometimes when on a side hill - the mower deck rollers are poor design - too thin.
If anyone finds the fix to this problem please post. If I can't resolve this problem I may upgrade to the John Deere 130 with the 22hp V-twin.


#7

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Fred12 said:
I also have a LTX 1842 with the exact same problem. I recently replaced all belts with MTD belts (both the drives and mower deck). I compared the belts before install - they appeared the same thickness and depth as the originals. The only differences in the drive belts were the lengths which were very slightly shorter - maybe 3/8 inch or so. I assumed this to be normal as the old ones were likely stretched with age.
Once installed, the tractor transmission/wheels stay engaged (creeps forward) even with my foot off the drive pedal. It also wont go into neutral until I cut the tractor off because the transmission is under a load.
I tried spraying some synthetic lubricant onto the belt which helped - it worked for a while but it now has the original problem. Right now I'm weighing the choice of trying another belt or just buying another mower. It's about that time - this one is 11 yrs old with a lot of hours on it. The Troybilt has been a decent mower but I don't think I'd buy another one. It tends to cut uneven/scalp sometimes when on a side hill - the mower deck rollers are poor design - too thin.
If anyone finds the fix to this problem please post. If I can't resolve this problem I may upgrade to the John Deere 130 with the 22hp V-twin.
Click to expand...

There is a rod that goes from the clutch/brake pedal to the double variable pulley. It should be adjustable. Will need take one end loose, and turn the rod clockwise a couple turns, and see if that will fix the disengage problem. By shortening the rod, you will pull the variator pulley further forward, which should disengage the front drive belt.


#8

Carscw

Carscw

Did you use MTD. Belts?
I have found that aftermarket belts do not work good on the drives.


#9

Carscw

Carscw

To help not to scalp on hills put more air in the tires and level the deck. For the anti scalp wheels you can change them to fatter wheels. Tractor supply sells the wheels and the bolts.


Footer Links 1

Top