Troy Bilt tiller rebuild

[rickpaulos]

I bought a very used 2010 Troy Bilt tiller recently.

Cleaned the tank, replaced the broken fuel line, changed the engine oil, cleaned the spark plug, cleaned the foam part of the air filter. It popped a couple times on the first pull then just refused to start. No spark from the coil. I removed all the ignition kill wires and still no spark. Bad coil. A new coil for $15 or a full kit for $25. I got the kit: coil, carb, fuel line, fuel filter, all new wires, plug, capacitor, switch, gaskets. Installed all that (except the wrong size spark plug) and it started on the first pull. Motor runs pretty good. Honda clone by Lifan.

The tines turn but the wheels are pretty jerky or just don't go. Pulled the transmission cover off. Ugh, no lube in the transmission and brass everywhere. I partially dismantled the transmission to remove the wheel shaft drive gear and clean out the case. Need to get a replacement wheel drive gear.

In searching the www, I find the same part number for Troy Bilt, Craftsman, MTD, Cub Cadet, Yardworks, etc. All MTD products. And the same part has at least 4 part numbers which I assume are the different brand name numbers. Not a cheap part. $100 to $145 for the gear. 1.7 pounds of solid brass.

 

[rickpaulos]

vid of the gear in place.

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[StarTech]

What is the actual model as there are several different styles that uses the bronze gears? Also PNs are you looking at. this way I can look if any of the number are supersedes or superseded PNs.

Example is my horse tiller uses a bronze gear but is different than the Bronco tiller.

 

[rickpaulos]

Thank you.

The handlebar plate is missing so I'm not sure if this is a Bronco or a Proline or some other name. 2010 date on the engine. Apparently a "Small frame" model. Is the "Horse" an MTD made model or a Garden Way model? I don't remember the year MTD took over Garden Way.

Here are the numbers from the 3 labels:
Tiller model 21C-655A766
Tiller serial 1C239K0096 000001
Engine Lifam ACLGS 195168 Disp 196 Date 06/10
Transmission model 618-04816
Transmission serial: 1A069P10099

I found 3 versions of the Operators Manuals and Parts Manuals for the 640 & 650 Series Small Frame tillers and 640 & 650 series transmissions. The manual seem to be rather general and don't show the many variations. The tiller model number contains 655 so is that a 650 series? Is the transmission model 618 close to the 640/650?
The 2 gears in the transmission are titled RH & LH (right hand & left hand?). ??? IMO it should be "drive gear" and "tines gear".

I did count 61 teeth on the destroyed gear. The center shaft hole measures about 1 inch.
part number in the 2010 parts catalog: 917-04380
Other parts numbers I found on the www 1904278 717-04380 GW-1904278

I see many of the tines gear for sale, very few of the drive gear. I'm guessing the drive gear fails at a higher rate.

 

[StarTech]

The 918-04816 is superseded to 918-04934. The service transmission is PN 753-06042A per Jacks, About $714 suggested MTD retail.

Those 61 Tooth worn gear PN all correct as they all supersede to the 917-04380 PN.

The 769-04091 Service manual for the transmission too large to upload here.

 

[Rivets]

From what I can find Star has found the correct part number. I found this. Troy-Bilt 917-04380 Worm Gear, RH 61 Teeth. Looking at your pics, the gear on the input shaft looks extremely worn also. Should not as sharp as yours. Will chew up a new gear very quickly.

 

[rickpaulos]

Thanks guys. Found a new shaft (711-05035) under $90. Gear (917-04380) about $110.

running total: $50 for the tiller. $30 for engine rebuild kit (working good), $90 shaft + $110 gear. so under $300 for a working tiller. ball park for what I seem them for sale locally. Looks like when I'm done using it I should get most of my money back out of it.

Does it matter what brand name is with the part number? Craftsman, MTD, Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, etc? I assume they are all made in the same factory, painted different colors with different decals applied.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

If the trans was very low or out of fluid you will need to change the seals on the wheel axles and the tine shaft. Check the shafts for pitting where the seals ride. The seals fail and water can get in the seals and rust pit the shafts. Very common prob on those tillers.

 

[rickpaulos]

There was no fluid in there. not even in the very bottom. Just a thin layer on the walls, parts and inside the covers. No sign of any leaks. One screw on one cover is not stock so maybe it vibrated off and was replaced. The seals look pretty good. The main shaft (except for the pointy wheel drive worm gear that Rivets pointed out, tx) and the wheel shaft look good. I did have to remove a little surface rust on the external parts of the shafts to get the bearings to slide on/off. The tines won't budge on that axle. I removed the bolts, sprayed lots of wd-40 and hit one with a hammer a couple times and quit before I damaged something. They don't need to come off.

I'll refill with lube and watch for leaks when I get the new parts installed.

This tiller was used hard and neglected but not left out in the weather which will ruin most things in Iowa. The previous owner estate had numerous farm sheds and barns and kept stuff under cover. It was dirty but not rusty. Gas left in the tank for years. I found one of the carb gaskets was on backwards blocking some of the small ports, kill wires held together with electrical tape without wrapping the wires together first or soldering them. Air filter foam cover packed solid with dirt, probably never touched. Fuel line broken and wrapped with electrical tape which won't hold in the presence of gasoline. Obviously unskilled repairs throughout.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Either someone drained the gear lube or it leaked out.