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I have a Troy-bilt Horse XP that is almost exactly 2 years old. One day while cutting the grass, my mower died out of the blue. I restarted it, but it would die again when I engaged the blade and hit the grass that needed to be cut. I could drive it around without the blade engaged with no problem, but when the motor was put under any load it would shut off. I am not mechanically inclined at all, so I went to the internet to try to find a diagnosis. First suggestion was replacing the fuel and air filters. I replaced the filters, and then the issue changed... It would start up and run for about 8 seconds and then shut off. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. Back to the internet... the common diagnosis was cleaning/rebuilding the carb or the solenoid on the carb being bad. I found that a brand new carb was just a few dollars more than a rebuild kit, and that would also replace the solenoid. So I ordered a brand new carb and installed it. Now the mower will only start when the choke is engaged. It will run for a minute or so with the choke engaged, but not long enough to do anything. I've read where some folks can mow their lawn with the choke on, but this is not the case. Someone suggested adjusting the screw on the carb. I can adjust it all over the place, and the condition doesn't change. I've also replaced the spark plug at some point during all this as well. I've also verified the solenoid is working on the new card by feeling and listening for the "click" when the key is turned on. I'm positive it's probably a simple fix or adjustment, but I just don't have the experience and knowledge to know what to do next. So talk to me like a 5-year-old and tell me what to do next. Don't assume that I've tried anything that may be common knowledge to do, because I don't have that common knowledge.
Everything I've tried, as suggested by the internet:
new fuel filter
new air filter
new spark plug
new carb/gaskets
adjusted carb
verified solenoid works
drained fuel tank
new gas


Thanks!

For starters, go to the kohler web page, sign on as a guest then download the parts, owners & repair manual for your engine.
Go to Troy built and downlaod the parts book for your mower as it has the wiring diagram in it and we like to use part number to describe parts to avoid confusion.
Arm yourself with a can of carb spray ( you will use it as starting fluid ) and a red spark tester as you have a twin, 2 would be better.
The ones I use are Oregon part No 42-087
Hook the testers up then start then engine, choke off by spraying SHORT SHOTS of carb cleaner through the carb.
If it starts and you can keep it running ( badly ) for about a minute with repeated SHORT SHOTS then you have a fuel problem.
While you are doing this keep your third eye on the spark testers, both should be flashing at around the same rate but not the same time .

If the replacement carb was the same price as a rebuild kit then it is a Chinese knock off and there is no reason to believe it will be correct for your engine or even work .
So put the old one back on.
Clean it as per the instructions found here http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/

When you dig up the engine number ( it will be CV something ) and the mower number from the tag under the seat both of which you will need to get the correct manuals, post them here so we know which engine we are trying to walk you through fixing.

Sorry, I didn't get any kind of notification that there was a reply. The motor is a CV20. I haven't had any time to mess with it lately. My work hours changed this week.

It is your mower so it is no problem for us.
The forum is something I do while having a cuppa .

Okay, it's a Kohler SV 601. Call me stoopid if you must, but I don't see a fuel pump on this thing. Every diagram I can find shows that it should be between the fuel filter and the carburetor (pics attached). One little sentence in the service manual says that some models have it under the cover, but I don't see it there either and there is no diagram showing where it should be. it says "mounted to air cleaner base", but there is nothing mounted to it, nor holes to mount anything. Am I just an idiot, or did they not install the friggin thing?? I know for a fact that I haven't removed it. I've only disconnected fuel lines from the fuel filter when I replaced it, and from the carburetor when I replaced it. And all lines were re-attached as shown in my pics. The fuel line for MY mower runs from the bottom of the gas tank, through the fuel filter, and then to the carb. There isn't another line running anywhere else. Help!!

This is why you need the parts book for both the engine & the mower.
Fuel pumps are generally only fitted to engines on mowers where the fuel tank is lower than the carburettor float bowl.
Usually these mowers have the fuel tank under the seat or rear guards.
Your mower has the tank under the dash so the fuel will flow by gravity alone to the carb.

...also, it looks like your choke is engaged already, since the chock place it closed in your first picture. If you don't have your throttle level in the choke position, then your linkages are bent or maladjusted

reading your initial thread, it sounds like the circuit to your fuel shut-off solenoid is flaky and cutting out. When you turn your key to on, without starting the engine, do you hear a little click under the carb? If not, look for a wire down there and see if it is connected. If not, connect it. If it is, wiggle it to see if you hear the solenoid clicking.

Mine was oil soaked and did exactly what you describe. when the engine was under load, it would vibrate that connection free and it'd cut off the fuel after a few seconds.

jbeazell said:

reading your initial thread, it sounds like the circuit to your fuel shut-off solenoid is flaky and cutting out. When you turn your key to on, without starting the engine, do you hear a little click under the carb? If not, look for a wire down there and see if it is connected. If not, connect it. If it is, wiggle it to see if you hear the solenoid clicking.

Mine was oil soaked and did exactly what you describe. when the engine was under load, it would vibrate that connection free and it'd cut off the fuel after a few seconds.

Click to expand...

Per the initial post, I have verified the solenoid is working on the new carb. I can hear the "click" and also can feel a noticeable bump when it engages.

jbeazell said:

...also, it looks like your choke is engaged already, since the chock place it closed in your first picture. If you don't have your throttle level in the choke position, then your linkages are bent or maladjusted

Click to expand...

The throttle lever was in the choke position at the time of the pic. I moved it back, and it opened up. All is good with the linkage, it was just left in the wrong position.

bertsmobile1 said:

This is why you need the parts book for both the engine & the mower.
Fuel pumps are generally only fitted to engines on mowers where the fuel tank is lower than the carburettor float bowl.
Usually these mowers have the fuel tank under the seat or rear guards.
Your mower has the tank under the dash so the fuel will flow by gravity alone to the carb.

Click to expand...

So I'm back to square one having no idea what the problem is. Awesome. Time to pay someone with more brains than me.

We know what the problem is , the engine is not getting a proper air fuel ratio.
The question is why ?
Two paths
1) obstruction in the fuel supply
2) introduction of air after the main jet.

The latter is checked by getting a trigger pack of WD 40 or similar and thoroughly saturating the inlet manifold when the engine is running fast .
Clouds of white smoke = air leak.
For fuel solenoids I like to replace them with a bolt for the purpose of diagnosis.
If you had a bad batch of fuel, the fuel lines could be failing.
Other than that it is back into the carb paying attention to the hole in the main jet and the holes in the emulsion tube that sits on top of it.
Usually the emulsion tube needs to be pushed out.
Full details of how to properly clean a carb can be found at http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/

SpammsMcghee said:

Per the initial post, I have verified the solenoid is working on the new carb. I can hear the "click" and also can feel a noticeable bump when it engages.

Click to expand...

ya...but does it also click when you wiggle the wire

Okay, new problem (or possibly a new symptom)... After the previous mess, I finally gave up and put it all back together and was going to seek out a mechanic, but it miraculously decided to start working (sort of) on its own. It runs a bit rough (vibrates more than it ever did), but it will run, and will cut. However, when encountering any incline or side hill, it cuts out like it's not getting fuel and I'll have to quickly change direction to get to level or down-hill ground. The incline doesn't have to be great. Almost any incline at all will cause this to happen. Any ideas?

I’m having the exact same problem and have replaced all the same things. Any luck figuring this out?