If a blade has a bunch of rock dings, I grind the bevel edge perpendicular to the grinding stone. Once it is flat & straight and the dings are removed, then I recut the bevel. It saves a lot of time and reduces overheating of the cutting edges.
For specialty mulching blades with odd bends, I don't waste time trying to save them, I replace them. Some blades are just not designed to be resharpened.
Also, use a course stone instead of a fine. Fine stones remove material too slowly and build up more heat.
I balance plain round hole blades using a nail in a vise. For star center blades and a couple of other designs I actually have a selection of modified used (good) spindles that I can place in a vise and then determine how well the blades are balanced.
The magnetic wall mount balancers also work pretty well.
Drill mounted blade sharpeners are bad idea because they wear out the stone too quickly. You would have to try one to understand what I am talking about.
Angle grinders work well with a course wheel, but you have to keep a consistent angle, and the blade held firmly in a vise.
