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Tife chains

#1

V

Vulnavia

Hey all,
Tire chains. How do you keep them on? 2006 cub cadet LT1040 Every time I plow some snow they "roll" over to one side of the tire or the other. Then back to the garage, jack up the back and move them to where they should be. It has happened since I first put them on. Tried crossed bungee cords and it helps a little. They are about as tight as I can get them and still be able to get them on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Will


#2

H

hlw49

Bungies stretch and will let them move. You might try chains instead of bungies.


#3

R

Rivets

I’ve found that large (1/2” wide) cable ties, routed in an X work best.


#4

O

OldDiyer

Heres my fix and may work for you as well. Lower the air pressure in the tires but not to the point the tire bead is broken than install the chains as tight as you can now inflate the tires to proper pressure sure now be tighter than you could ever get them, and I do not use any tensioners. On my set-up years ago after first year dealing with the chains, I got a whole different set of used tires and wheels and installed the chains on them now for winter I just change over the tires and wheels with chains already installed and ready to go. Alot easier for an old man like me.


#5

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Are you sure you have the proper size chains for the tires? Proper fitting chains can be a pain to get tight. Can you post a pic of the installed chains?


#6

V

Vulnavia

Thanks for the replies and ideas. I struggle every time I put them on for the winter season, getting them as tight as I can, not sure I can get them any tighter. I believe they are the proper size, as recommended by the manufacturer. I will try lowering the air pressure and see if I can tighten them up. I have some big cable ties and try them too. If that doesn't help, I will measure the chain size. I'll see about a picture when I can (was informed there are more important things to do today !). I'll let you know.

Will


#7

G

Gord Baker

OldDiyer said:
Heres my fix and may work for you as well. Lower the air pressure in the tires but not to the point the tire bead is broken than install the chains as tight as you can now inflate the tires to proper pressure sure now be tighter than you could ever get them, and I do not use any tensioners. On my set-up years ago after first year dealing with the chains, I got a whole different set of used tires and wheels and installed the chains on them now for winter I just change over the tires and wheels with chains already installed and ready to go. Alot easier for an old man like me.
Click to expand...
Very well thought out Sir. I have done the same with psi.


#8

S

Sherman Anderson

Vulnavia said:
Hey all,
Tire chains. How do you keep them on? 2006 cub cadet LT1040 Every time I plow some snow they "roll" over to one side of the tire or the other. Then back to the garage, jack up the back and move them to where they should be. It has happened since I first put them on. Tried crossed bungee cords and it helps a little. They are about as tight as I can get them and still be able to get them on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Will
Click to expand...
Will, it sounds like the chains are sized for different tires. I lived in Colorado 25 years and there learned about chains for vehicles. Now I’m in Arkansas since 1998. about 2010. I did a search for chain sets for my 650 lb. Self-propelled two-wheel stump grinder. Northern Tool, Tractor Supply and Orscheln Farm Supply we’re the only vendors at that time and the price was very high. I gave up the search and rely9n the knobby equipment tires or decline the job if tire chains would be necessary. Perhaps a welder could remove the excess chains in your set for a tighter fit.


#9

O

OldDiyer

Well don't want to hack this thread but heres something else that works great. Not only were the chains a pain but always had issue with the wheel weights as well so 2 years ago came up with a fix for them as well. As I had the extra wheels set up with chains, I installed the long bolts that hold the weights on the wheels thru the wheels and double nutted them now all I do is slide the weights on the studs put on the washers and nuts tighten and its done no more trying to get your hands behind the wheels when mounted on the tractor and starting the nuts was always a real pain to hold the weights and try to get the nuts and washers started behind the wheels.


#10

S

sastark

Great thread. I have a Cup Cadet Z-Force 54" deck Zero Turn that has terrible traction. My property is somewhat hilly, but not extremely so (central Kentucky). I thought about putting chains on it, but after reading this I thought perhaps there's a better way? Different tread, less air in the tires so they are not so stiff, etc.
Anybody have ideas?
Thanks, and this is a great forum.


#11

F

ford005

sastark said:
Great thread. I have a Cup Cadet Z-Force 54" deck Zero Turn that has terrible traction. My property is somewhat hilly, but not extremely so (central Kentucky). I thought about putting chains on it, but after reading this I thought perhaps there's a better way? Different tread, less air in the tires so they are not so stiff, etc.
Anybody have ideas?
Thanks, and this is a great forum.
Click to expand...
I also have a Cub Cadet zero turn and found that I’d easily get stuck in a rut, slick spot or slight hill with thicker grass. I got a pair of extra wheels and mounted 20x10x8 SunF ATV tires. They have been great and have actually reduced burning up the grass as they grip instead of skid.

Attachments







#12

G

Gord Baker

sastark said:
Great thread. I have a Cup Cadet Z-Force 54" deck Zero Turn that has terrible traction. My property is somewhat hilly, but not extremely so (central Kentucky). I thought about putting chains on it, but after reading this I thought perhaps there's a better way? Different tread, less air in the tires so they are not so stiff, etc.
Anybody have ideas?
Thanks, and this is a great forum.
Click to expand...
If you are mowing your hills sideways, chains will make your machine skid down hill. Lower air pressure and use as directed may help.


#13

G

Gunn308

I had to run a diamond pattern chain on my wheeler for the same reason worked out better for plowin on icy driveway


#14

1

13brian

Vulnavia said:
Hey all,
Tire chains. How do you keep them on? 2006 cub cadet LT1040 Every time I plow some snow they "roll" over to one side of the tire or the other. Then back to the garage, jack up the back and move them to where they should be. It has happened since I first put them on. Tried crossed bungee cords and it helps a little. They are about as tight as I can get them and still be able to get them on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Will
Click to expand...
I had the same problem, this fixed my issue. https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Powe...fix=mower+tire+chain+tensioner,aps,206&sr=8-8


#15

I

IMKCMAC

Vulnavia said:
Hey all,
Tire chains. How do you keep them on? 2006 cub cadet LT1040 Every time I plow some snow they "roll" over to one side of the tire or the other. Then back to the garage, jack up the back and move them to where they should be. It has happened since I first put them on. Tried crossed bungee cords and it helps a little. They are about as tight as I can get them and still be able to get them on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Will
Click to expand...
What I do on my Simplicty1920 and my MF 135 both is take the valve core out. Put the chains on. On the inside I usually just hook the first link and then try to get as tight as possible on the outside clasp. Then air tires up and they should be good and tight. I also use two crossed rubber bungee cords stretched tightly. I believe the key is to remove most of the air when installing the chains. I also try to get them centered side to side on the tires before airing up the tires. Hope this helps. Been there done that.


#16

B

BigBand

Vulnavia said:
Hey all,
Tire chains. How do you keep them on? 2006 cub cadet LT1040 Every time I plow some snow they "roll" over to one side of the tire or the other. Then back to the garage, jack up the back and move them to where they should be. It has happened since I first put them on. Tried crossed bungee cords and it helps a little. They are about as tight as I can get them and still be able to get them on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Will
Click to expand...
I deflate my tires, then put on the chains. When I inflate the tires again the chains are much tighter.


#17

M

macadoo

sastark said:
Great thread. I have a Cup Cadet Z-Force 54" deck Zero Turn that has terrible traction. My property is somewhat hilly, but not extremely so (central Kentucky). I thought about putting chains on it, but after reading this I thought perhaps there's a better way? Different tread, less air in the tires so they are not so stiff, etc.
Anybody have ideas?
Thanks, and this is a great forum.
Click to expand...
hex head sheet metal screws in knoby tread may help. work great on ice!


#18

S

sastark

Gord Baker said:
If you are mowing your hills sideways, chains will make your machine skid down hill. Lower air pressure and use as directed may help.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. The slopes are pretty mild; most of the trouble is getting around the trees, and making the lap turns along the fencerow. It's funny, though; I've got a 2019 JD Z535M zero turn which we use for the same thing and it doesn't slide the way the Cub Cadet does. It has a smaller 48" deck though.


#19

G

Gord Baker

sastark said:
Thanks for that. The slopes are pretty mild; most of the trouble is getting around the trees, and making the lap turns along the fencerow. It's funny, though; I've got a 2019 JD Z535M zero turn which we use for the same thing and it doesn't slide the way the Cub Cadet does. It has a smaller 48" deck though.
Click to expand...
Perhaps a little 'slower' if other factors are the same!


#20

Ohioguy

Ohioguy

I have a similar problem. I have a Tank SZ with 24x12x12 tires. I ordered chains for 24x12x12 and when i received them, I deflated both tires put them on and they were about two crosschains short. I sent them back and called the local Cub dealer. He asked what size the tires were and told me he didn't have an exact fit but one that may work. I haven't tried them yet. I could buy a 26x12x12 and shorten if this doesn't work?


#21

Ohioguy

Ohioguy

These are 24x12x12 chains on a 24x12x12 tire, deflated to install.

Attachments







#22

G

Gord Baker

You could buy some chain and hammer links to make the first ones fit or shorten the new ones. Not rocket science.


#23

Ohioguy

Ohioguy

Yea, that was my plan. Go longer say 26x12x12 and shorten.


#24

E

eddie046

OldDiyer said:
Heres my fix and may work for you as well. Lower the air pressure in the tires but not to the point the tire bead is broken than install the chains as tight as you can now inflate the tires to proper pressure sure now be tighter than you could ever get them, and I do not use any tensioners. On my set-up years ago after first year dealing with the chains, I got a whole different set of used tires and wheels and installed the chains on them now for winter I just change over the tires and wheels with chains already installed and ready to go. Alot easier for an old man like me.
Click to expand...
That's what I have always done and it works well.


#25

M

mcHarley

Vulnavia said:
Hey all,
Tire chains. How do you keep them on? 2006 cub cadet LT1040 Every time I plow some snow they "roll" over to one side of the tire or the other. Then back to the garage, jack up the back and move them to where they should be. It has happened since I first put them on. Tried crossed bungee cords and it helps a little. They are about as tight as I can get them and still be able to get them on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Will
Click to expand...
Some air out of the tires then chains on and put again some air in the tires untill they are not moving, that should fix your problem.
Harry


#26

S

stevensdo

Front tired i use a steel ring and som springs. Rear tire chains came with bungee system.
See link for picture.

photos.app.goo.gl

New item by Doug Stevens

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl


#27

M

Mark56

Lowering the tire pressure and then putting the chains on then pump up the tire is something I use to do as well for years and it worked somewhat. Unfortunately, when the temperature goes down when you are plowing in the snow, the big tires will shrink due to the air pressure inside going down due to the temperature.

Found this solution recently. When I plowed my drive with my John Deere 316 they would sometimes slip to the side. Saw these, Chain Spring Tightener for ATV Lawn Tractor Tire Chains, and said what the heck why not try them. Ordered a set of them for around $20 - $25 and these have been on my tractor ever since. Keeps tension on the chain no matter what the temperature is outside.Chain Spring Tightener_2022-12-29.jpg


#28

W

wvRenegade

OldDiyer said:
Heres my fix and may work for you as well. Lower the air pressure in the tires but not to the point the tire bead is broken than install the chains as tight as you can now inflate the tires to proper pressure sure now be tighter than you could ever get them, and I do not use any tensioners. On my set-up years ago after first year dealing with the chains, I got a whole different set of used tires and wheels and installed the chains on them now for winter I just change over the tires and wheels with chains already installed and ready to go. Alot easier for an old man like me.
Click to expand...
This is what I do too. Chains rarely move.


#29

Castleford

Castleford

OldDiyer said:
Heres my fix and may work for you as well. Lower the air pressure in the tires but not to the point the tire bead is broken than install the chains as tight as you can now inflate the tires to proper pressure sure now be tighter than you could ever get them, and I do not use any tensioners. On my set-up years ago after first year dealing with the chains, I got a whole different set of used tires and wheels and installed the chains on them now for winter I just change over the tires and wheels with chains already installed and ready to go. Alot easier for an old man like me.
Click to expand...
This was my solution as well, another old man with arthritic fingers...It's amazing how ingenious this condition
makes me!


#30

D

dpage

Vulnavia said:
Hey all,
Tire chains. How do you keep them on? 2006 cub cadet LT1040 Every time I plow some snow they "roll" over to one side of the tire or the other. Then back to the garage, jack up the back and move them to where they should be. It has happened since I first put them on. Tried crossed bungee cords and it helps a little. They are about as tight as I can get them and still be able to get them on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Will
Click to expand...
I use stiff springs 120 degrees apart inside and outside


#31

I

icerabbit

It has always been a struggle to put my craftsman chains on my craftsman mower. I had riding mower snow blower kit, with chains, wheel weights, ...

The only way I could make it work was with an abundance of zip ties and some copper wire. Copper wire twisted around a couple primary connections. Then twist ties to tighten it up as needed just right on both sides of the wheel, because if I didn't, in short order would wiggle and start hitting the mower frame ... and maybe lose a chain. It would take me a half hour per tire ... and I could swear they were the wrong chains and/or some inadequate design. But no, sears insisted that was the chain accessory for my mower tires.

Years later I put a second mower into winter duty with a small plow and its " universal " chains work a heck of a lot better. I would just secure the initial two connections with a couple zips and then run two or three bungee cords through the open side facing out, to tighten things neatly. Maybe 10 min per tire.

If anybody is considering the big snow blower and chains to clear snow around their property. I could only drive on asphalt pavement. As soon as I went on the lawn or a gravel road, to try to get around the house, or go to my like garden shed. I'd get stuck.


#32

Smithsonite

Smithsonite

We always used bungees on chains for the trash trucks I ran on a big city recycling route. They would be just enough to take the slack out of the chains. As long as you didn't curb them, they'd last quite a while. You have to get the correct length, and install them, preferably 2 of them, in opposing "V's" on each wheel.


#33

B

barny57

Vulnavia said:
Hey all,
Tire chains. How do you keep them on? 2006 cub cadet LT1040 Every time I plow some snow they "roll" over to one side of the tire or the other. Then back to the garage, jack up the back and move them to where they should be. It has happened since I first put them on. Tried crossed bungee cords and it helps a little. They are about as tight as I can get them and still be able to get them on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Will
Click to expand...
Let’s some air out of the tire put them on as tight as you can get it and fill the tire back up


#34

B

barny57

icerabbit said:
It has always been a struggle to put my craftsman chains on my craftsman mower. I had riding mower snow blower kit, with chains, wheel weights, ...

The only way I could make it work was with an abundance of zip ties and some copper wire. Copper wire twisted around a couple primary connections. Then twist ties to tighten it up as needed just right on both sides of the wheel, because if I didn't, in short order would wiggle and start hitting the mower frame ... and maybe lose a chain. It would take me a half hour per tire ... and I could swear they were the wrong chains and/or some inadequate design. But no, sears insisted that was the chain accessory for my mower tires.

Years later I put a second mower into winter duty with a small plow and its " universal " chains work a heck of a lot better. I would just secure the initial two connections with a couple zips and then run two or three bungee cords through the open side facing out, to tighten things neatly. Maybe 10 min per tire.

If anybody is considering the big snow blower and chains to clear snow around their property. I could only drive on asphalt pavement. As soon as I went on the lawn or a gravel road, to try to get around the house, or go to my like garden shed. I'd get stuck.
Click to expand...


#35

B

barny57

you need more weight on your lawnmower do you know how much your tractor weighs? I have a 425 John Deere weighs about 1200 pounds with everything and I have no problem


#36

R

rdedrick

They work the best when the outside circumference chain is down the sidewalls away from the treat. So the circumference is too small to go over the tread. If the chains were sized for a narrower tire they won't be able to do that.


#37

goodO1boydws

goodO1boydws

Haven't you guys ever heard of tire-chain tensioners?
They last practically forever-on a riding mower.
The ones I'm talking about are made of rubber, although there ARE ones made with springs.
I like the rubber ones because you never have to worry about snagging a spring and having it stretch out far enough to get caught on things like yourself or a tire or the blades

They're like giant o rings about 1/4" in thickness that attach to ONE side of the tire chain-(attach to the short side sections of chain between the cross chains. They hold the rubber cord in place with clips that look sort of like a slightly opened numeral "8". One loop goes over the chain and the other lop goes over he rubber ring.

I've used the SAME PAIR of tensoners, with car tire chains, AND 25# wheel weights (EACH), on my rider- since 1997.
(I call where we live-in east Tenn. "Never-LEVEL-Land". Nuff said?)

Ive worn out 3 sets of tires, broke 2 wheels, but still have the same set of tensioners. .

Here's a link to one set of chains and one set of tensioners, your wheels may need a different size.

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

The CHAINS I got were rated for 13", 14" and some 15" car tires.
The TENSIONERS I got were rated for 13", 14" and 15" tire chains.
MY tires are rated at 23" high x 9.5" wide-on 12" diameter wheels, which used to be wider than many car tires of the same height. I needed to remove some links from the ends of the tire chain to reduce their length, and not have excess chain flopping around but its not a big deal-and the chain locks will still work without modification on shoprtened chains-no problem.


One tIp though,.
Many people never adjust their tire chains properly-which means as snugly as you can get them. This may require you to remove links from the chain ends as I did, and to possibly make a few extra clips for the tensioners out of a stiff wire, but its not a big deal to do that. If necessary, you can use tensioners on BOTH sides of the wheels


#38

J

Johner

Ever thing above sounds right. Chains must be tight they must over lap the inside wall tighten the adjusters. After that this is what I put on Mine on the outside of the tire, elastic cord from a parashot cord dealer tie and stretch cord tie to opposite side use about six of them. Chains been on 2 years now no problems tight as a drum.


#39

S

sourdough doug

sastark said:
Great thread. I have a Cup Cadet Z-Force 54" deck Zero Turn that has terrible traction. My property is somewhat hilly, but not extremely so (central Kentucky). I thought about putting chains on it, but after reading this I thought perhaps there's a better way? Different tread, less air in the tires so they are not so stiff, etc.
Anybody have ideas?
Thanks, and this is a great forum.
Click to expand...
Hi Will, I know you said that the chains you have are what was recommended , however I'm inclined to think you may need to try something different. Quite possible as what John mentioned about removing air and the re-inflating will work. I have chains on mine with just turf tires and don't think lugged tires are the fix..The chains I use, have fairly long cross chains and the tighteners are at least half ways down the sidewall of tire, on both in and outside. Never had any problems..."rolling"..


#40

V

Vulnavia

Hi and Happy New Year!
Had a chance to work on the tire chains yesterday and noticed two things. First, had only 4psi in the tires. I suspect this is the root of my problem. ( I feel slightly embarrassed ) Second, there are two different types of chain going across the tire. Not sure why. there seems to be no pattern to the way they are applied. Let out the remaining air, took off chains and took a link out. Installed chains and put in air after an internet search I found pressure from 10 to 15 psi acceptable. Chains are noticeably tighter. Is this the right pressure ?
Thanks for all they advice.

Will


#41

V

Vulnavia

Had a bit of snow, so was able to try out the tire chains. Worked great, didn't slide of. Quite happy with the result.
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. 3-7 inches of snow coming today and I have 1 less thing to worry about!

Thanks again,
Will


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