Export thread

Older walker '90s..Is testing the safety switches as simple as pulling the plug and closing/completing the circuit on the wire side?

This video MIGHT be of help .....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xi3p465MN1E

No, you have to find out if you have a normally open or normally closed switch. Second, some safety switches actually are two switches in one body. They are used where current must flow through them different directions, depending on how the unit is being operated at the time. If you can get a wiring diagram, it would help you understand the type of switch and how it is used in each circuit.

this was a seat switch. No continuity.
Also have discovered that I do not have power to the blue wire on the starter. Can this be because of a bad saftey switch?
When I try to jump the starter with a screw driver alls I hear is a large thump like the solenoid is engaging but no turning of the motor.
Let me toss in that both relays are good.

The blur wire is the solenoid trigger wire and will only be 12 V while the ignition switch is in the start position if all the safety switches are in their correct positions.
If you jump from the red power wire to the blue wire the solenoid should trip & the starter turn.
If not then you have a problem with the solenoid/ starter.
From your description I assume that you have the starter with the tubular solenoid on the side like a car engine.

Yes, the solenoid is tubular and on top of the starter. I'm guessing the thump I'm hearing ( big one ,metal hitting metal)is the solenoid making the starter engage the flywheel? Sound about right ? But nothing turns, yet the starter is supposed to be new. Looks that way also.

Take it off & check it.
Could be the wrong starter.
Could be a bad solenoid.
On those types the solenoid both switches the power to the starter and pushes the drive gear up into the flywheel teeth.
So it could be faulty and not pushing the gear, the starter could be faulty and not rotating or the gears could be wrong and not meshing.

I will do that . Thanks for the advice.

I took it for granted that thee guy ahead of me wired the starter correctly. Nope! I can now jump the starter and have it crank the engine.

To get power to the blue wire it is a long & torturous path.
Starting at the fuse power goes to the B terminal on the ign switch ( battery power )
From these it goes to the S = Start terminal
Then to the PTO switch, through that if it is turned off
Then to the hand brake safety switch which if it is working will pass voltage through to the blue wire and energise the starter solenoid.

If any link in the chain fails, then you ain't going anywhere.

So now you have to put on the deer stalker, grab the magnifier and do some investigating.

bertsmobile1 said:

To get power to the blue wire it is a long & torturous path.

Click to expand...

amen to that.

bertsmobile1 said:

Starting at the fuse power goes to the B terminal on the ign switch ( battery power )
From these it goes to the S = Start terminal
Then to the PTO switch, through that if it is turned off
Then to the hand brake safety switch which if it is working will pass voltage through to the blue wire and energise the starter solenoid.

If any link in the chain fails, then you ain't going anywhere.

So now you have to put on the deer stalker, grab the magnifier and do some investigating.

Click to expand...

One more saftey to check for the blades. Then the ignition switch. Didn't realize there was one for the parking brake. Thanks for the blow by blow on electricity flow. Will come in handy. But now I have to jump on my Walker and mow the lawn. :frown:

Here's where I am at after 3+ hrs mowing 2.5 acres. Can't wait to move.
Against the advice of a mower shop laughing: ) I removed a colored wire from the harness there-by disabling the kill switch. Got power to the blue wire intermittently. Have to hold the ignition switch just so to get fire but I did a few times. I will replace the ignition switch should probably just do the blade safety also. With a bit of starter fluid I actually got it to run for 15 secs. So I know it'll run now anyway. For as long as it's sat I'm sure a carb rebuild is in order.

Last switched checked out fine. New ignition switch and it turns over nicely. Thanks for all the help.
Onto the carb...