Tecumseh TVS105-53122G stalling/carb hookup

soulvoid86

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Hello all,

New member here, and I'm not 100% sure if this thread should be posted here, so please feel free to move it if it's not correct. First time owning my own mower as well, hahah, but I'm a experienced backyard mechanic, and work on my own cars all the time. So I have a good mechanical knowledge/background, but I've never worked with a mower directly before.

So long story short, I bought a Snapper push mower (Don't have the exact model number on hand, at work right now.) for $20 out of our local news paper, knowing it was not running correctly, from an older lady who's husband passed away. She though it was an issue with the wiring. Got it home, and found out it had the self-propel feature, but was removed because it was broken. There were a few extra wires just hanging, so I snipped those off.

When I first got it, it ran Ok but ran at pretty low speed, even with the throttle handle cranked all the way up. It would then stall out slowly, as if it were out of gas. So first thing I did was pull apart the carb, cleaned it out good with carb cleaner and some compressed air. Changed the oil and spark plug, and also inspected the coil and wire (All's good there). Emptied out the fuel tank, cleaned it, and put a new fuel line on it (without a shutoff, until I get it running right). Started up great on the first pull, and ran for about 10 mins, then slowly died off again.

Next day, I pulled the carb apart again, cleaned it, and got it all back together. Ran great for about 15 minutes, then started doing the same thing. Then it would not start back up. It would fire 1 or 2 cycles, then stall out or not even fire at all.

So I stopped working on it for a few days, and it was stored on our enclosed back porch. I pulled it out a few days later, primed it 3 times, and it fired right up first try.. I pushed it forward 3ft, and it stalled out. Started it back up, and did the same thing. Now, when I can get it to stay running, if I move it in any direction, or pick the front end up as if I were turning around while mowing, it stalls out everytime.

I'm also not sure if the throttle cables are connected correct either. When I pull the throttle back to the STOP position, it just idles, it doesn't choke it out. And when changing the throttle position, it doesn't really do much other than putting it in either idle or full throttle, there's no in between. There's also a small metal clip hanging, and I'm not sure what it connects to exactly.

Below is a link to an external site that I uploaded all of the pictures that I currently have of the mower. If you need any more, or any more information, please let me know.

Photos: Snapper Mower - Album on Imgur

Thank you very much!
 

pappabear

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I was over at this website looking at the tecumseh update service pdfs and read something in the 2007 update that might help you.
here's the link "K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
there was an article in there about how tecumseh had installed a check valve in the gas tank. thought you might want to have a look.
 

soulvoid86

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Sorry for the long delay, been busy with some happening stuff going on, haha.

Anyway, so I was able to tear the carb down again, and it turns out I accidently got some (a lot) of PB Blaster in the carb/float. I was cleaning few things off and must have happened then. So the mower is back to running great, but I'm still having the issue of it just staying WOT/over revving a bit (at least it sounds to be like it's running faster than normal to me).

I did look over some of the material you guys have provided (which has helped a lot already) and see if I can find a carb hookup for this exact engine. I seems as though they have the wrong spring on the carb, but I'm not expert.

I'll post if I can't find any other information.

Thanks again!
 

soulvoid86

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So I looked into this a little more, and I'm not sure if I have part#186 or not. Do you know if this is supposed to be a spring? I know in the description it says spring, but it's pictured as a small metal rod. The spring I have on mine doesn't look to be correct, or was cut/modified and doesn't work correct. It constantly has tension on it, and no matter how I adjust the carb or governor, it still has tension and is holding it WOT.

I did look at the first PDF you linked to barrettsmallengine.com, but it didn't have the exact diagram for my governor/throttle connections.

Do you happen to know of any better info on the throttle assembly on top of the carb/governor assembly? Just so I can verify I have all the correct hardware, and if not, get it.

Thanks!
 
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soulvoid86

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I was over at this website looking at the tecumseh update service pdfs and read something in the 2007 update that might help you.
here's the link "K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
there was an article in there about how tecumseh had installed a check valve in the gas tank. thought you might want to have a look.

I also looked through most of the PDF's on here, and a lot of them were very helpful when it comes to tuning the carb. These will definitely come in handy once I get to that point :laughing:.

I did check the gas tank, and there are no check valves. As a matter of fact, there isn't anything in my tank, no filters or anything.. So I will need to get those.

If I could find something like the figure in 'TECUMSEH-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-3HP-TO-11HP-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-69250..' on Page 27, that would be perfect. I'm not 100% sure the governor/throttle are connected correctly.

I may end up taking it to a friends shop, and have him take a look at it, since I have it running stable now.
 

pappabear

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Soulvoid,

I see the speed control bracket on your mower is the same one I have on my Snapper rear engine rider.

The cable on mine actuated the choke lever indirectly- by the pivot and frame arm within the speed control bracket. Mine did not have any direct influence on the throttle shutter at all- the governor did all the work and made it run at a fixed RPM. In hindsight it was supposed to. It does not give me the option of dialing in an RPM I like.

Did you take off the speed control bracket and play with it yet? There's an alignment procedure for the speed control bracket in the Tecumseh Technician manual on page 29 which helped me understand all the relative movements in the linkages. SPEED CONTROLS AND LINKAGE

What is controlling the throttle shutter? What hooks to it?

Oh and before I forget... in your carb cleaning missions have you removed the welsh plugs? I did my first set on my tecumseh carb rebuild, and it's not that hard. I was a bit skiddish to be honest thinking I could screw up the carb but now I'm convinced that one really has to take them out to get the carb clean. The only thing under them is/are milling passages needed to complete the fuel circuits in the manufacture process. Some of those holes are about the size of a high E guitar string (0.009-0.010")- which make great cleaning tools BTW.

Good luck and shoot us a status.

My tecumseh plug had on on the outside that covered the idle and intermediate passeges into the throat which are critical for starting and "medium" speeds.
 

soulvoid86

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Soulvoid,

I see the speed control bracket on your mower is the same one I have on my Snapper rear engine rider.

The cable on mine actuated the choke lever indirectly- by the pivot and frame arm within the speed control bracket. Mine did not have any direct influence on the throttle shutter at all- the governor did all the work and made it run at a fixed RPM. In hindsight it was supposed to. It does not give me the option of dialing in an RPM I like.

Did you take off the speed control bracket and play with it yet? There's an alignment procedure for the speed control bracket in the Tecumseh Technician manual on page 29 which helped me understand all the relative movements in the linkages. SPEED CONTROLS AND LINKAGE

What is controlling the throttle shutter? What hooks to it?

Oh and before I forget... in your carb cleaning missions have you removed the welsh plugs? I did my first set on my tecumseh carb rebuild, and it's not that hard. I was a bit skiddish to be honest thinking I could screw up the carb but now I'm convinced that one really has to take them out to get the carb clean. The only thing under them is/are milling passages needed to complete the fuel circuits in the manufacture process. Some of those holes are about the size of a high E guitar string (0.009-0.010")- which make great cleaning tools BTW.

Good luck and shoot us a status.

My tecumseh plug had on on the outside that covered the idle and intermediate passeges into the throat which are critical for starting and "medium" speeds.

Yea, there definitely isn't a direct connection from the throttle cable to the choke. This carb doesn't have a separate choke either. I'm not 100% sure if it has one at all to be honest. I only see a throttle plate, with a small hole (to stop vacuum im assuming, not too familiar with carbs). I believe the spring I have may have broken at some point and was then stretched, or modified in some way that connected from the governor to the throttle shutter. It doesn't look correct and is bent in a weird way. I believe once I get that replaced with the correct part, it will run after adjusting everything properly. I'm not sure sure if it's only a spring, a spring with a metal arm or what.

I actually had some time today after work to play with it, and see how it ran. I took a small piece of 10awg wire to replace the spring. I was able to adjust the idle screw, and the high speed screw, so the engine wouldn't over rev and could be set to an idle. I was able to mow my entire yard, front and back, without a single issue. It did get a little warm at one point, but I was in some pretty thick grass. I just let it cool for about 5 minutes, and it was fine the rest of the time.

The problem with this is I have either full speed or idle as options and the choke wiggles in those positions, so it doesn't keep a consistent speed, it jumps around and mows funny at some points because of this now. It's also only a very small change to the throttle handle that goes from full throttle to idle, I can only move it about a 1/8 to 1/4" for this change. There is absolutely no in between. You can see the throttle shutter just slap open and closed.

I was able to clean the outside of the carb and found a number. I tried to find anything on it and got no where. It's 1137001. This is on the outlet of the carb, connecting to the intake pipe. On the lip.
 
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