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Synthetic Oil?

#1

N

NickSteel

Can (or should) I use synthetic oil in my Craftsman 20411 zero turn (Briggs & Stratton 22hp)?

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#2

Boobala

Boobala

Can (or should) I use synthetic oil in my Craftsman 20411 zero turn (Briggs & Stratton 22hp)?

It's covered in your owner's guide, but quick response is YES !!


#3

J

JohnFM

I went to Mobil 1 full synthetic for everything years ago. Somewhat pricey, but a very good oil.


#4

B

broo

In my Toro owner's manual, it specifies what oil to use under which recommended temperatures.

If between cool and warm, 10W30, warm to hot : straight 30.

However, synthetic 5W30 or 10W30 can be used all across the temperature scale.

I'll first deplete whatever 10W30 I have, then switch to synth.


#5

mhavanti

mhavanti

Hughes Oil Company, Inc. Was in the petroleum industry from 1961 until 2004. We carried every brand and type of petroleum to even non-petroleum food industry lubricants. We still have a hand in the petroleum industry although we retired the company due to children and grand children too damned lazy to work for a living. lol

Point being, there is no engine created by man that requires a full synthetic lubricant. It is a good joke originally played on the British and US public that has made so much money it has carried around the entire globe.

Without going into chapter after chapter of stating and then showing why, I'll give you a one word reply just like some others.

"No".

There is nothing your engine requires to live a long comfortable life than a non ash oil such as the Shell Rotella T 15-40 which engines over 12,000 horsepower operate on daily in locomotives, huge earth moving equipment, etc. Fuel cooled engines do not place the strains on engine oils the aforementioned can and does. Only thing you'll need to be concerned with is unspent fuel contaminating your engine lubricants since fuel as well as air cools your engine.

Sorry fellas, synthetics are made to sell to ***** and you can make up your own jokes on those 5 asterics. lol

Max


#6

7394

7394

I know the Shell Rotella T-4 (15w-40) has 1,200 ppm of ZDDP in it (according to Shell Rotella tech) which is great for flat tappet & air cooled engines, & carries the JASO MA & etc ratings.


#7

mhavanti

mhavanti

You are absolutely correct and at one time the first company to advise their distributors they were adding synthetic to the base during the refining processes. It was to create a faster viscosity change not to be slicker as synthetic claims go today.

You all may find this interesting as well.

https://rotella.shell.com/warranty.html?gclsrc=ds


#8

7394

7394

Good read, Thanks, I have a different link, but same info. :thumbsup:

The T-4 in 15w-40 is only one I believe has the JASO-MA, & MA2 rating for.


#9

S

Southland

You can use synthetic oil if you want to. Link to the Briggs web site.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/mower-oil-type-and-capacity.html


#10

Boobala

Boobala

I added some of this at my last oil-change and my engine looks 3 years younger .......

111 OIL.JPG

20a6980289a7a60364a23f462ad7ed16--smiley-faces-emoticon.jpg


#11

N

NickSteel

Another synthetic question.
Briggs recommends 10w30.
Will 5w30 work as well? (I have several quarts).


#12

I

ILENGINE

Another synthetic question.
Briggs recommends 10w30.
Will 5w30 work as well? (I have several quarts).

I always find this ironic because I keep seeing that briggs recommends 10w30, but briggs doesn't have a 10w30 oil under their name They have a 5w30 synthetic, a 15w50 synthetic, and a 30w oil but not 10w30 oil, and they always claimed that the use of milti-grade oils such as 10w30 or 5w30 non synthetic may cause increased oil consumption.


#13

B

bertsmobile1

I always find this ironic because I keep seeing that briggs recommends 10w30, but briggs doesn't have a 10w30 oil under their name They have a 5w30 synthetic, a 15w50 synthetic, and a 30w oil but not 10w30 oil, and they always claimed that the use of milti-grade oils such as 10w30 or 5w30 non synthetic may cause increased oil consumption.

Yes, thinner oil in a horizontal cylinder engine will increase the oil consumption more that it will do in the same engine with a vertical cylinder.
Mainly will happen during start up and when standing.
It is a lot harder to keep 5W oil on the right side of an oil seal that 10W or strait 30.

The auto industry went to very low weight oils to meet the EPA requirements of instant starts
The same regulations will eventually apply to mowers.


#14

S

Southland

Another synthetic question.
Briggs recommends 10w30.
Will 5w30 work as well? (I have several quarts).

On the link I posted previously, Briggs states that synthetic 5w30 is good for up to 100 degrees F. I would use it if I already had it.


#15

J

jamesjamd

Hughes Oil Company, Inc. Was in the petroleum industry from 1961 until 2004. We carried every brand and type of petroleum to even non-petroleum food industry lubricants. We still have a hand in the petroleum industry although we retired the company due to children and grand children too damned lazy to work for a living. lol

Point being, there is no engine created by man that requires a full synthetic lubricant. It is a good joke originally played on the British and US public that has made so much money it has carried around the entire globe.

Without going into chapter after chapter of stating and then showing why, I'll give you a one word reply just like some others.

"No".

There is nothing your engine requires to live a long comfortable life than a non ash oil such as the Shell Rotella T 15-40 which engines over 12,000 horsepower operate on daily in locomotives, huge earth moving equipment, etc. Fuel cooled engines do not place the strains on engine oils the aforementioned can and does. Only thing you'll need to be concerned with is unspent fuel contaminating your engine lubricants since fuel as well as air cools your engine.

Sorry fellas, synthetics are made to sell to ***** and you can make up your own jokes on those 5 asterics. lol

Max
Jet engines only use synthetic oil!


#16

cpurvis

cpurvis

Jet engines only use synthetic oil!
Welcome to the forum.

How does this translate to reciprocating engines?


#17

D

de3

I run amsoil small engine oil in darn near all of my outdoor power equipment with great results so far,my hrx has near 500 plus hours on it


#18

B

bertsmobile1

What you put in a mower is no where near as important as when you take it out and how often you do it.
Mower oils are of course the best because they are specifically blended for air cooled mowers that get used infrequently .
Using synthetics is overkill but if that is what you want to do and it makes you feel happy the go ahead.
I like to compare it to eating.
You can eat the same food as an olympic athlete but it ain't going to make you faster running 400 yards.
OTOh it will not kill you either.


#19

7394

7394

Guys, a quick Bing search shows Briggs does make 10w-30, (at least a nice pic) but nothing at all as to where to buy any. Go figure.

1588297885424.png


#20

tom3

tom3

Just me, I wouldn't run 5w30 synthetic oil in an air cooled lawnmower engine.


#21

7394

7394

Found 1 source anyhow. Not cheap.

Briggs 10w-30 dino oil or full syn.



#22

I

ILENGINE

Must be an australian thing, since it isn't offered to the US dealers. And to Tom3, been running the 5w30 synthetic briggs oil in a stump grinder for several hundred hours with no ill effects, don't even have to add oil between the 50 hour oil changes.


#23

C

cruzenmike

THE answer to your question:


Most small air cooled engines should run SAE30 should conditions permit. If running below 50 degrees F then 10w30. Both of those can and should be conventional oil (non-sybthetic). Personally I would locate some of the Genuine Briggs oil your local farm and home store.

I only have one Briggs powered machine left and I run the synthetic 5w30. It is a generator that sits standby and could be started any time of the year including the dead cold of winter. This oil gives me the widest range of operating temperatures so it fits my needs.

At the end of the day, clean fuel, clean air and regular CHECKING and changing of oil is more important than conventional vs synthetic so long as the grade and viscosity of the oil are correct.


#24

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Gotta love oil threads. 2 stroke ones are the best. Like PC vs Mac. Ford vs Chevy.


#25

tom3

tom3

I'll add a bit more. Modern oils, API rated SM/SN/SN+ and those in synthetics, are made for modern engines. We're talking about micropolished journals, exact clearances, coated pistons, low tension rings, roller cam followers and rocker arms, very tightly controlled fuel mixtures, moderate controlled temperature limits.
Non of this applies to the vast majority of air cooled mower engines. For sure, any oil is better than no oil, but I'll stick to oil that is suitable for the engine I'm running. The old JD mower I use has always had good old dino 30 weight since 1980, mostly Rotella. Had a bad experience with another engine, chewed up the bore, I'll stick with what works. Got a quart of this on the shelf, it'll stay there.

arco graphite oil.jpg


#26

BPierce

BPierce

If it makes you happy, but oil with that word on the bottle. You can eat organic food if you like, too.

My point being, there is no industry standard for either term. Virtually all engine oils have synthetic polymers and almost all motor oil has a petroleum base stock.

When you change your oil and using the correct viscocity has more to do with anything than the label on the bottle.


#27

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

I personally like canola oil in all my engines. ??


#28

tom3

tom3

Might put some plaque in the passages over time though. Maybe a "little dab" of Brylcreem as an additive? Sure oily enough.


#29

D

de3

Its labeled Briggs, but Briggs dont make it.


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