How are you at diagnosing chainsaws that won't start.
A friend gave me one that he couldn't get started. I thought , no problem, this shouldn't be to hard to fix.
I seem to have spark,( visable when spark plug grounded to head, and get some very short engine firings.) (Makes me think it is fuel problem). I have installed new spark plug, carb kit, and fuel line. Carb looked clean inside. Saw was stored with gas tank empty. I have tried many adjustments of the high (h) carb adjustment screw, to no real effect. I don't really know if I have too much or too little fuel. Plug does seem to get wet during choking, but not excessively so. I usually blow off plug and blow out plug hole between trys. I have tried using starting fluid thru carb with inconsistent results, sometimes I get a couple fires then nothing, other times nothing (Makes me wonder if it really is an ignition problem).. I have kind of run out of ideas. The only remaining thing that I can think of is to replace the so called impulse line from the engine to the carb. This is supposed to be a vacuum line which is necessary for carb to get fuel. Unfortunately it is really difficult to get to. I guess the other choices are spark intensity (a function of ignition coil), and perhaps ignition timing (which is also difficult to mess with).
Any ideas on how to really isolate problem to fuel vs ignition, if fuel then what?
Thanks for any insight you have on this issue.
#2
Fish
Go on e-bay and buy a good 029/290 coil... Wire it in and be done with it!!!!!
I noticed when I removed the flywheel to check the points that the key in the crank was almost if not totally flush with crank. It did not look functional to me. Any thoughts?
I assume if the key is sheared then the timing is messed up. Maybe a new woodruff key and reassembly of flywheel correctly is all I really need!
#10
Fish
I was trying to get you to replace the coil, without removing the flywheel, I failed....
Yes, if you would "google" or "bing" the topic, you would have your cure......Just slap on the new coil, and be done with it. But now, you have to worry about whether you re-torqued the flywheel nut enough.....
I noticed when I removed the flywheel to check the points that the key in the crank was almost if not totally flush with crank. It did not look functional to me. Any thoughts?
I assume if the key is sheared then the timing is messed up. Maybe a new woodruff key and reassembly of flywheel correctly is all I really need!
Looks if you are getting there, this is from the stihl manual.......
Clean the crankshaft taper and flywheel hub bore with suitable degreasing agent (e.g. trichlorethlene, diluted nitro) make sure the key is properly positioned in its slot, fit the flywheel on the crankshaft so that the key engages in the slot in the flywheel hub, screw hexagon nut onto the crankshaft stub and tighten it down to a torque load of 30 Nm.
The key is only provided to ensure that the flywheel is correctly positioned, the driving force between the crankshaft and flywheel must be absorbed entirely by the taper seat, it is therefore absolutely essential to ensure that the crankshaft nut is tightened down to the specified torque of 30 Nm.
Yes, thanks Engineman. To upgrade the 028, one needs to get the 0000 400 1300 coil, which happens to fit many of the Stihl midsize saws, including the 029/ms290, which there a multitude of good used parts floating around.
Yes, thanks Engineman. To upgrade the 028, one needs to get the 0000 400 1300 coil, which happens to fit many of the Stihl midsize saws, including the 029/ms290, which there a multitude of good used parts floating around.
Got her running great. Thanks for all of the support. I do have a new question. Is there any way to adjust the amount of oil supplied to the chain? I have cleaned out all of the holes in the bar, checked the oil outlet area on the block. The oil reservoir does diminish while operating, but the bar gets hot and ultimately causes the chain to get too tight.
