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I have a Briggs 094332 0114 B1 that starts up, runs 15 seconds, then dies. I've cleaned it about 10 times with a cleaning wire and soaked it for 2 days. I stole another carb off a mower and it does the same thing. Cleaned the tank and installed a new fuel line. Any ideas????? I'd buy a new carb but, this one isn't made anymore. thanks, gregjo1948

Does it exhibit the problem when gas cap is removed?

Have you changed the float needle and seat? Part number 398188. Plus you must set the float either level or slightly rich. Also should replace the carb to intake manifold gasket.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/695157

B&S overhaul kit $14.25 part #695157 for carburetor 795533

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/695156

By any chance does this engine have a low oil shutdown system?

Those are the same symptoms I encountered on a Tecumseh generator engine when the oil was about midway between low and full on the dipstick.

Russ2251 said:

Does it exhibit the problem when gas cap is removed?

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Yes, it doesn't make any difference with the cap off.

Rivets said:

Have you changed the float needle and seat? Part number 398188. Plus you must set the float either level or slightly rich. Also should replace the carb to intake manifold gasket.

Click to expand...

I have not changed the needle, seat, and float but, the float is plastic with no holes/leaks and the needle is operating as it should. There is no adjusting the float on this carb. I haven't changed the gasket as original is fine but, I'll try it anyhow.

cpurvis said:

By any chance does this engine have a low oil shutdown system?

Those are the same symptoms I encountered on a Tecumseh generator engine when the oil was about midway between low and full on the dipstick.

Click to expand...

That's a good thought but, the only shutdown on this engine is throttling back to completely idle and it then grounds out the coil.

A good looking float, needle, and seat does not mean they are operating properly. If the seat has swelled, which is very common over time, the needle may be closing prematurely and causing a lean running condition. The needle and seat need to be replaced, plus unless you know how to alter the float to get it to operate properly, you will need to replace the float. I’ll bet if you removed the carb and turned it upside down you will see that the float is 1/8-1/4” higher on the nonpin side which means a lean operating condition.

I need to clarify the "start and quit". I failed to say that I spay gas or starting fluid into the carb and it will run until that fuel is burned, then quits. The bowl is full of gas.
Even if the float sticks and restricts gas from entering the bowl, shouldn't the engine run until the gas is used up from the bowl?

gregjo1948 said:

I need to clarify the "start and quit". I failed to say that I spay gas or starting fluid into the carb and it will run until that fuel is burned, then quits. The bowl is full of gas.
Even if the float sticks and restricts gas from entering the bowl, shouldn't the engine run until the gas is used up from the bowl?

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Not if the passages in the carburetor are blocked. And that just about has to be the case if your engine won't use the gas that's in the bowl.

I need to find something that will dissolve anything in the carb passages. I've soaked it 2 days in Napa carb cleaner and run a torch tip cleaner wire in every passage but still have the same problem.
Is there something that I can soak it in to open all the passages?

The bowl may have fuel in it, but it is not at a level high enough to be drawn into the carb airhorn.

Pull the blower housing off ,remove the contact on the coil & try again.
Mower runs well = bad wiring
Mower runs the same could be a bad coil,

In cases like yours I use an in line red spark tester and whatch it closely.
If it flashes all the way till the engine stops then the electrics & coil is good.
If the flashes stop then the engine slows down the coil/electrics is the culprit.

If the electrics are OK the next thing is to pull the blower housing & coil off .
Then check the inlet manifold.
A lot of these come loose, crack & split.
Generally this will cause surging when it starts too happen
As it gets worse, the mixture is so weak after the initial rich start that the engine can not run
Final stage is engine will not start at all