Some repairs are just unbelievable

Giles

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My father-in -law went to a nursing home and he gave me his Honda V45 Motorcycle. The bike had not been ridden in quite some time and did not run worth a crap!
I am not new to motorcycles and I have cleaned many carburetors, but these, and the V65, are very complicated, especially concerning removal.
I THOROUGHLY cleaned the carburetors and installed the expensive kits but could not get the "bog" during acceleration, eliminated.
After the THIRD tear down of the carburetors, I was flustrated that the bog was still persistant.
I decided to give up and sell it like it is.:thumbdown:
I replaced the air cleaner assembly and it set for about two days when I decided to ride to the gas station for a fillup.
To my amazement--it ran perfect.:laughing: The last two teardowns were unnecessary! It apparently needed the intake restriction!:wink:
The buyer of the motorcycle has ridden it several hundred miles with no problems.
In all my 50 years of machinery repair--I have never run into this situation.
 

Oddball

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Man, that's a sensitive intake system to run that much differently with and without the air cleaner. It has been my experience that performance usually improves a little with the air cleaner removed.
 

JDgreen

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I had a 1977 Honda 450 twin, and when I replaced the OEM mufflers with louder ones, the engine didn't run as well at full rpm. When I replaced the OEM mufflers, it ran fine again. The straight pipes eliminated some of the back pressure needed for proper operation. Newer engines would have a LOT more dependence on the intake and exhaust systems than a 1977 motor would.

Will you tell us in some more detail exactly what you did? From what I read, you removed the air cleaners, installed some new hardware, but didn't replace the air cleaners?
 

Giles

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I had a 1977 Honda 450 twin, and when I replaced the OEM mufflers with louder ones, the engine didn't run as well at full rpm. When I replaced the OEM mufflers, it ran fine again. The straight pipes eliminated some of the back pressure needed for proper operation. Newer engines would have a LOT more dependence on the intake and exhaust systems than a 1977 motor would.

Will you tell us in some more detail exactly what you did? From what I read, you removed the air cleaners, installed some new hardware, but didn't replace the air cleaners?
There is no way that I can give detail for the procedure of, cleaning/rebuilding these four carburetors.
But, with that being said, All these V Bikes had a slight hesitation/bog while running off the "needle valve" Honda chose this setup for emissions purposes and there is no way to raise or lower the needle--short of installind an approximately 1/64 thick washer to richen the mixture. This helped very little.
This hesitation/bog, was much more severe. It would die completly upon full acceleration going from operation of needle valve to main jet. Idle, midrange, and full throttle circuits overlap each other and therefore can effect each other.
These carburetors are removed and installed as a four carb. assembly, and they can be a "bear" to deal with.
All engines are effected by the air cleaner--especially at idle, and air cleaner should be installed with any carb adjustment.
The air box containing the aircleaner is also a pain to R/R and that is the reason for running without A/C
Just very sensitive bikes.
 

JDgreen

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Thanks for clarification....now I know what was involved. You have a lot more patience than I do !!! :thumbsup:
 

Chev

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I have two of these bikes.

A 1986 VF1000R and a 2003 VFR800A.

These are very complicated machines to work on.

The carbs on the older ones are very difficult to remove and even more frustrating to install. Congrats on getting them off and back on without a nervous breakdown. :thumbsup: For those that don't know, the carbs have to be squeezed as an assembly into the V-Four configuration........ literally. Instead of angling the boots so the carbs could be pressed down into the V, the carb assembly has to be pushed forward into the front and back into the rear bank.... then tried in reverse, then again, then cry a little, then try again, then throw the pry bay down and walk away hoping that tomorrow it will be better.

Checking the valves on the '03 VTEC motor is even more frustrating. The cams have to be removed and a pin installed to simulate VTEC, then reinstalled, clearances checked, and disassembled to remove the pins. Mine is 10,000 past due and I will push it another 10K before I worry about it. :biggrin:
 
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I have two of these bikes.

A 1986 VF1000R and a 2003 VFR800A.

These are very complicated machines to work on.

The carbs on the older ones are very difficult to remove and even more frustrating to install. Congrats on getting them off and back on without a nervous breakdown. :thumbsup: For those that don't know, the carbs have to be squeezed as an assembly into the V-Four configuration........ literally. Instead of angling the boots so the carbs could be pressed down into the V, the carb assembly has to be pushed forward into the front and back into the rear bank.... then tried in reverse, then again, then cry a little, then try again, then throw the pry bay down and walk away hoping that tomorrow it will be better.

Checking the valves on the '03 VTEC motor is even more frustrating. The cams have to be removed and a pin installed to simulate VTEC, then reinstalled, clearances checked, and disassembled to remove the pins. Mine is 10,000 past due and I will push it another 10K before I worry about it. :biggrin:


You are one up on me because i dont know squat about motorcycle engines, carbs, etc..
 
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