Repairs Simplicity Regent 14 Hydro - odd electrical issues

[logy]

Good Morning all,

First off, glad I found this site. It may be my last resort. I have worked on cars quite a bit, but not really anything to speak of on small engine stuff (at least, anything with all these safety switches ). If my assessment of my situation is wrong, chock it up to ignorance because I'm not sure how this model works. I happened to inherit a Simplicity Regent 14 Hydro with the house that I'm buying, but I'm certain the previous renters couldn't have mowed with it this season. It was in sorry shape when I got to it, and it's still not quite right, but I think I'm close.

In looking online and doing some fiddling of my own, I can't seem to figure out this issue. The thing would start and drive, but if I'd turn on the deck, I'd get nothing. I looked under the seat, and found the wiring to be electrical-taped with the two ends attempted to be butted against each other... Knowing the previous renters, I expected something like this. I went ahead and tore that harness apart and re-soldered the wires.

Now the seat makes a good connection, but anytime I let off of the drive clutch it wants to die. I tried to turn on the PTO clutch with the drive clutch in as well, and the mower wants to die then too. I can unplug the seat, and it will drive, but the PTO won't turn on.

I also did a continuity test on the seat, and it bounces all over the place. Does that seem right for that sensor?

My train of thought leads me to think that it's the sensor in the seat thinking that I'm not sitting on it, but I don't just want to up and buy a new seat if I don't have to (obviously). Is there a way to bypass that safety to see if that's my issue?

 

[mechanic mark]

Do not bypass seat safety switch. Post your seven digit Simplicity model number from sticker on right side of tractor frame as well as all numbers from engine, model xxxxxx, type xxxx, trim xx & code number. A bad seat switch can create all sorts of problems. Shop for best price & shipping method. Let us know how it goes, thanks.

https://www.simplicitymfg.com/na/en_us/search.html?searchrequested=1692354 This should be your operators & parts manuals if your model number is listed in operators manual.

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...city part 1714771&aqs=chrome..69i57.23625j0j8

 

[bertsmobile1]

AFAIK no one is currently using piezo switches yet.
They are going to be introduced with the computer controlled fuel injection systems some time early in the 20's.
Thus all of the safety switches currently being used as simple make & break exactly the same as car door light switches.
Only difference is some are normally closed while others are normally open and the compound ones have both a normally open & normally closed in the one uit.
They are dirt cheap sliding contact switches and prone to wear, corrosion etc etc.

There are 2 safety circuits
1) start switches, these are daisy chains and pass voltage through the start switch, the PTO switch , the Brake switch ( neutral switch where fitted ) then to the starter solenoid.
2) Kill switches. these are all ground switches and ground out the coils. And this is where your problem lies.
Most of them work in pairs and all pairs work in parallel.
PTO & Seat
Seat & Brake
Brake & neutral
PTO & Reverse
Now Simplicity is anything but Simple.
They have the most complicated wiring of any mower and most of the switches either control a relay or are controlled by a relay.
Thus you are really going to need the wiring diagram and the ability to work your way through it.