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Rz5424

#1

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

Was mowing then it died. I pulled up seat to check fuse and the 20amp was blown and very hot I pulled it out and the Fuse housing melted a bit. It will not do anything. Keeps blowing fuses. Put in new battery, new solenoid, new starter because it was completely shot. Now nothing. Turn on key you can here carburetor click and that is all. Turn the key all the way to start it and pops fuse.


#2

B

bertsmobile1

In the back of the owners manual is the wiring diagram
You will see in the start position the power goes from the key switch ( S terminal ) to the PTO switch to both lap bars to the brake switch to the solenoid
If the 20A fuse blows every time you turn the key to S then you have a dead short some where in that circuit.
The other possibility is you have installed the battery backwards.

The fuse melting is because you have a bad connection at the fuse holder.
Cut it off & replace it with a waterproof one or keep it greased to prevent water corroding the wire under the crimp.
A photo of the solenoid would be very helpful as it is possible to conneect them so they are a dead short.


#3

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

In the back of the owners manual is the wiring diagram
You will see in the start position the power goes from the key switch ( S terminal ) to the PTO switch to both lap bars to the brake switch to the solenoid
If the 20A fuse blows every time you turn the key to S then you have a dead short some where in that circuit.
The other possibility is you have installed the battery backwards.

The fuse melting is because you have a bad connection at the fuse holder.
Cut it off & replace it with a waterproof one or keep it greased to prevent water corroding the wire under the crimp.
A photo of the solenoid would be very helpful as it is possible to conneect them so they are a dead short.
Thanks soon as I get home this evening I will try to post photos. I will replace fuse holder as well I have to buy more fuses anyways.


#4

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

Here is photos of solenoid

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#5

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

Also when I turn key all the way to starting position both wires on the 20 amp fuse gets very hot


#6

E

enigma-2

I believe that you have a wire that's shorted. Carefully trace eack of the wires coming off the ignition switch and look for fraying are pinching. I'd also suspect a shorted ignition switch. (They've been known to short internally).


#7

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

I believe that you have a wire that's shorted. Carefully trace eack of the wires coming off the ignition switch and look for fraying are pinching. I'd also suspect a shorted ignition switch. (They've been known to short internally).
Thanks so you think that would cause it to just die while mowing?


#8

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

Thanks so you think that would cause it to just die while mowing?
I have looked at everything and I see no bad wires. I have unplugged every switch. I was told the ignition switch or the pro switch could’ve gone bad. Just weird it happened while mowing.


#9

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

Ok replaced ignition switch and pro switch and nothing. The fuse wires are no longer getting hot and the fuse isn’t blowing. The only thing you here when you turn the key is the carburetor click. So do you think it is a safety switch????


#10

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

I believe that you have a wire that's shorted. Carefully trace eack of the wires coming off the ignition switch and look for fraying are pinching. I'd also suspect a shorted ignition switch. (They've been known to short internally).
Replaced the ignition and PTO switch still blowing fuses when I turn to start. I pulled the negative cable off battery and put test light on post and to wire and no light until I turn to start position. Hook negative cable back on turn to start pop fuse. Now when I unplug the yellow wire from the solenoid the fuse doesn’t pop but still nothing. Traced that yellow wire to brake lever plug. Suggestions? Oh and I have replaced the starter, solenoid, battery and all safety switches. I have pulled the entire harness and see no bad wires????? ?


#11

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

Replaced the ignition and PTO switch still blowing fuses when I turn to start. I pulled the negative cable off battery and put test light on post and to wire and no light until I turn to start position. Hook negative cable back on turn to start pop fuse. Now when I unplug the yellow wire from the solenoid the fuse doesn’t pop but still nothing. Traced that yellow wire to brake lever plug. Suggestions? Oh and I have replaced the starter, solenoid, battery and all safety switches. I have pulled the entire harness and see no bad wires????? ?
The only time I don’t pop fuse is removing that yellow wire from solenoid


#12

B

bertsmobile1

In which case that would point to the solenoid having a dead short
Hard to see from your photos how many wires you have at the base of the solenoid
According to the wiring diagram you should have a 3 pole solenoid
That is 2 heavy ones for the battery & Starter cables and one small ( yellow ) wire to the base which is the trigger wire.
This one should go from 0 to 12V when the key is in the start position.


#13

Kevin1970

Kevin1970

In which case that would point to the solenoid having a dead short
Hard to see from your photos how many wires you have at the base of the solenoid
According to the wiring diagram you should have a 3 pole solenoid
That is 2 heavy ones for the battery & Starter cables and one small ( yellow ) wire to the base which is the trigger wire.
This one should go from 0 to 12V when the key is in the start position.
I have it running again. I can only assume when my starter fried it somehow shorted all my safety switches. All of them had to be replaced. The reason after replacing all of this and then my fuses kept popping was that I put my solenoid ground on same post as the yellow wire not realizing it was a hot wire. So I was shorting out my solenoid. Thanks for everyone’s help.


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