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Roundup for tree stump
#1
M
Mikel1
M
Mikel1
I recently had two large trees cut down. I had the stump grinded down on one and left the other. The owner of the company said to drill holes and fill up with roundup if it started growing again. I have heard of using salt or copper sulfate but not roundup. I'm skeptical on it working. Anyone used roundup before?
#2
Ric
I use round up all the time. The owner of the company that said to drill holes and fill up with roundup if it started growing again doesn't know how round up works because it will have no effect on a tree stump. Round up has to be absorb through the leaf or foliage to work.
Ric
I recently had two large trees cut down. I had the stump grinded down on one and left the other. The owner of the company said to drill holes and fill up with roundup if it started growing again. I have heard of using salt or copper sulfate but not roundup. I'm skeptical on it working. Anyone used roundup before?
I use round up all the time. The owner of the company that said to drill holes and fill up with roundup if it started growing again doesn't know how round up works because it will have no effect on a tree stump. Round up has to be absorb through the leaf or foliage to work.
#3
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Ric has it right.
Normally I would not do me too's but with poisions it is important that people know who is who & what is what.
To stor regrowth drill holes and use a specialist root poision. The one universally used down here is Root Kill.
Gallons of copper also work, but it will leave the entire root system toxic for years yo come and inhibit the bacterial break down
Normally I would not do me too's but with poisions it is important that people know who is who & what is what.
To stor regrowth drill holes and use a specialist root poision. The one universally used down here is Root Kill.
Gallons of copper also work, but it will leave the entire root system toxic for years yo come and inhibit the bacterial break down
#4
Carscw
Carscw
Actually the guy is right. People have been doing it for years. Drill half inch holes about 9 inches deep. Pour concentrated roundup in the holes. Do not mix with water there is plenty of water in the stump.
I use poison ivy and brush roundup.
And get the 50% not the 18%
I use poison ivy and brush roundup.
And get the 50% not the 18%
#5
Ric
Hey Bert how much do you pay for your Root Kill? I think the Root Kill is a great idea. I mean a 1lb bottle here cost like $6.00 not like Round up at $112 for a gallon.
Ric
Ric has it right.
Normally I would not do me too's but with poisions it is important that people know who is who & what is what.
To stor regrowth drill holes and use a specialist root poision. The one universally used down here is Root Kill.
Gallons of copper also work, but it will leave the entire root system toxic for years yo come and inhibit the bacterial break down
Hey Bert how much do you pay for your Root Kill? I think the Root Kill is a great idea. I mean a 1lb bottle here cost like $6.00 not like Round up at $112 for a gallon.
#6
M
Mikel1
That's interesting, he did mention using it concentrated. Thanks for the information.
M
Mikel1
Actually the guy is right. People have been doing it for years. Drill half inch holes about 9 inches deep. Pour concentrated roundup in the holes. Do not mix with water there is plenty of water in the stump.
I use poison ivy and brush roundup.
And get the 50% not the 18%
That's interesting, he did mention using it concentrated. Thanks for the information.
#7
B
bertsmobile1
If it is the same stuff it is $ 25.00 for a 1 liter bottle ( little more than a quart ) .
We used to get it as a powder but now only as a 25% solution.
Round up is $ 225 for a 20 or 25 liter drum at 35% about 6 US gallons .
You used to be able to get Glyco at 100% but now days you need a lisence to buy it neat.
The pencil dic*s with shinny bums and degrees in sociology & philosophy who managed to go through all their schooling having never done any science let alone organic chemistry have gotten into the government regulation boards.
They just banned Lebacid, which is the only insecticide that works against fruit fly to protect the bees from veroa mite.
The fact that you spray fruit, at 4 weekly intervals , not flowers with it, seems to have escaped their attention.
The fruit fly has gotten so bad they are now attacking the olives.
I had to destroy about 100kg of various fruits last season and the trees will be bull dozed over winter.
The vegie garden will also have to go as the only thing I can grow is root crops.
The 15 small farmers along the river all ploughed in their crops this season and 2 of them are now being developed as housing estates.
B
bertsmobile1
Hey Bert how much do you pay for your Root Kill? I think the Root Kill is a great idea. I mean a 1lb bottle here cost like $6.00 not like Round up at $112 for a gallon.
If it is the same stuff it is $ 25.00 for a 1 liter bottle ( little more than a quart ) .
We used to get it as a powder but now only as a 25% solution.
Round up is $ 225 for a 20 or 25 liter drum at 35% about 6 US gallons .
You used to be able to get Glyco at 100% but now days you need a lisence to buy it neat.
The pencil dic*s with shinny bums and degrees in sociology & philosophy who managed to go through all their schooling having never done any science let alone organic chemistry have gotten into the government regulation boards.
They just banned Lebacid, which is the only insecticide that works against fruit fly to protect the bees from veroa mite.
The fact that you spray fruit, at 4 weekly intervals , not flowers with it, seems to have escaped their attention.
The fruit fly has gotten so bad they are now attacking the olives.
I had to destroy about 100kg of various fruits last season and the trees will be bull dozed over winter.
The vegie garden will also have to go as the only thing I can grow is root crops.
The 15 small farmers along the river all ploughed in their crops this season and 2 of them are now being developed as housing estates.
#8
B
bertsmobile1
Round up is glycophosphate.
Glycophosphate destroys chloraphyl.
Chloraphyl is the green bits in plants that produce the starches the plants need to grow.
It is only active on plants that are green.
Pouring it concentrated into the tree stup does nothing but cost you a lot of money and pose a chemical hazard.
What is killing the roots is the solvent the glycophosphate is disolved in and using this way is exactly the abuse of the product that the panzies in parliament are using to try and get it banned.
If you drilled holes and poured old sump oil, Parrafin, Deisel , Fuel, epsons salts, vinegar and probably 250,000 other things in there the roots will die.
However root kill is the exact right product to use.
It prevents the transport of nutrient from the roots to the xylem layer where the tree will try & shoot from.
It also contains enzymes that promote bacteria that eat the root material.
Copper Sulphate just kills the roots, and everything else that it comes into contact with and should only be ued as a dilute solution when you want to keep the tree root there as some sort of decorative feature.
B
bertsmobile1
That's interesting, he did mention using it concentrated. Thanks for the information.
Round up is glycophosphate.
Glycophosphate destroys chloraphyl.
Chloraphyl is the green bits in plants that produce the starches the plants need to grow.
It is only active on plants that are green.
Pouring it concentrated into the tree stup does nothing but cost you a lot of money and pose a chemical hazard.
What is killing the roots is the solvent the glycophosphate is disolved in and using this way is exactly the abuse of the product that the panzies in parliament are using to try and get it banned.
If you drilled holes and poured old sump oil, Parrafin, Deisel , Fuel, epsons salts, vinegar and probably 250,000 other things in there the roots will die.
However root kill is the exact right product to use.
It prevents the transport of nutrient from the roots to the xylem layer where the tree will try & shoot from.
It also contains enzymes that promote bacteria that eat the root material.
Copper Sulphate just kills the roots, and everything else that it comes into contact with and should only be ued as a dilute solution when you want to keep the tree root there as some sort of decorative feature.
#9
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
I use either tordon RTU or 2,4-D ester mixed with diesel as a basal for killing brush or stumps. If treating stumps you only need to treat the outer inch or so, or actually just the bark and the inner layer of growing cambium.
#10
M
Mikel1
On the generic roundup it has Glyphosate in form isopropylamine salt. I have no doubt at all that there are many items that can kill the roots.
There are many root killers, stump killers in the US, so don't know what your root kill is.
Just for the hell of it I decided to chat with Roundup. There reply was to use Ortho Max Poison & Tough Brush killer concentrate or Roundup Poison & Tough Brush killer concentrate and paint on freshly cut stump or drill holes 3" deep and 2-3" apart.
Not as far fetched as I originally thought.
M
Mikel1
Round up is glycophosphate.
Glycophosphate destroys chloraphyl.
Chloraphyl is the green bits in plants that produce the starches the plants need to grow.
It is only active on plants that are green.
Pouring it concentrated into the tree stup does nothing but cost you a lot of money and pose a chemical hazard.
What is killing the roots is the solvent the glycophosphate is disolved in and using this way is exactly the abuse of the product that the panzies in parliament are using to try and get it banned.
If you drilled holes and poured old sump oil, Parrafin, Deisel , Fuel, epsons salts, vinegar and probably 250,000 other things in there the roots will die.
However root kill is the exact right product to use.
It prevents the transport of nutrient from the roots to the xylem layer where the tree will try & shoot from.
It also contains enzymes that promote bacteria that eat the root material.
Copper Sulphate just kills the roots, and everything else that it comes into contact with and should only be ued as a dilute solution when you want to keep the tree root there as some sort of decorative feature.
On the generic roundup it has Glyphosate in form isopropylamine salt. I have no doubt at all that there are many items that can kill the roots.
There are many root killers, stump killers in the US, so don't know what your root kill is.
Just for the hell of it I decided to chat with Roundup. There reply was to use Ortho Max Poison & Tough Brush killer concentrate or Roundup Poison & Tough Brush killer concentrate and paint on freshly cut stump or drill holes 3" deep and 2-3" apart.
Not as far fetched as I originally thought.
#11
Ric
There are a bunch of different company's that thing like Root Kill/stump remover. Spectrcide makes stump killer, Zep makes Root kill, Ortho Max Poison & Brush killer. Just do a search on the Home Depot or Lowes site. They have the Brush killer made by Round up and they also have the HDX brand which is the Home Depot brand. The big difference in the weed and grass killer concentrate Round Up and the HDX brand is the percentage of the main ingredient. Round Up is like 58% glycophosphate vs 41% in the HDX brand.
Ric
On the generic roundup it has Glyphosate in form isopropylamine salt. I have no doubt at all that there are many items that can kill the roots.
There are many root killers, stump killers in the US, so don't know what your root kill is.
Just for the hell of it I decided to chat with Roundup. There reply was to use Ortho Max Poison & Tough Brush killer concentrate or Roundup Poison & Tough Brush killer concentrate and paint on freshly cut stump or drill holes 3" deep and 2-3" apart.
Not as far fetched as I originally thought.
There are a bunch of different company's that thing like Root Kill/stump remover. Spectrcide makes stump killer, Zep makes Root kill, Ortho Max Poison & Brush killer. Just do a search on the Home Depot or Lowes site. They have the Brush killer made by Round up and they also have the HDX brand which is the Home Depot brand. The big difference in the weed and grass killer concentrate Round Up and the HDX brand is the percentage of the main ingredient. Round Up is like 58% glycophosphate vs 41% in the HDX brand.
#12
jekjr
jekjr
I do not recommend Round up for this application but we can buy 41% Glyophosphate for like $39 for a 2 1/2 gallon jug. It works great for spot spraying. Memory serves me correctly 3 oz to a gallon of water.
#13
I
ingigo
I
ingigo
saw stump to ground level
drill 1 inch holes, deep , middle , and shallow. Fill with diesel fuel. do over a couple seasons until underground stump is saturated in diesel . Light diesel with more diesel and a Long stick on fire.
enjoy the longest campfire ever...
drill 1 inch holes, deep , middle , and shallow. Fill with diesel fuel. do over a couple seasons until underground stump is saturated in diesel . Light diesel with more diesel and a Long stick on fire.
enjoy the longest campfire ever...
#14
Ric
The authority's frown on that kind of stuff around here, besides it not being very environmentally friendly.
Ric
saw stump to ground level
drill 1 inch holes, deep , middle , and shallow. Fill with diesel fuel. do over a couple seasons until underground stump is saturated in diesel . Light diesel with more diesel and a Long stick on fire.
enjoy the longest campfire ever...
The authority's frown on that kind of stuff around here, besides it not being very environmentally friendly.
#15
P
possum
P
possum
Fuel oil poured into drilled holes works well. But then so did lighting an old tire on fire 50 years ago. Both will get you jail time here in town now days. Glyphosate is and has been a stump killer for a long time. PBI Gordon sells one from Tractor Supply that is called stump killer and has nothing but glyphosate in it. The best one I know of is Tordon RTU. Tractor supply and most farm coops have it. It will kill Siberian Elm trees in one season. And they never come back. More commonly known as Chinese Elm but really are not at least in Kansas. Farmers kill hedge trees by the millions around here with glyphosate and or Tordon. The Tordon here is considered to be better than fire on medium to large to very large cedar trees as well as hedge trees of any size.