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I want to replace the bearings on the deck spindle. I am having a problem removing the pulley and/or the blade holder. Not sure how to remove the retaining clips. See pictures.

This is on a old Murray lawn chief so if I break something I can't buy a new part.

The way I would go after this is soaking and heat. Start by soaking the blade adapter for twenty four hours with a good penetrating oil. Install the blade nut on the shaft, just flush with the end of the shaft. You will need to pound on the end, so you want to protect the threads as much as a possible. Then apply heat to the adapter not the shaft with a torch. Once you have the adapter hot drive the shaft out. With the amount of rust on this unit, I doubt this will be easy and yes I have ruined parts doing this. If you are lucky, you should be able to drive the shaft out of the spindle, so you don't have to remove the pulley. Good Luck

Thanks for the reply. I tried to remove the blade adapter with a puller but stopped. I wasn't sure if there was some sort of retaining ring holding it on? It looks to me like there is a sleeve between the blade adapter and the shaft so I didn't want to force it off or heat it up.

Before I go the heat do you know of any other reasons I should check for a deck belt that keeps jumping off the pulleys.
I have tried new belts and checked the pulleys everything seems okay to me.

I took some advice from the tube ( never too old to learn new tricks ) and use this all the time.
The trick is an air chisel with a hammer end.
Got one of these with the first ( cheapie ) compressor and it sat in its box for 30 years, now I use it daily.
For really rusty stuff ( like yours ) 20,000 little taps works a lot better then 1 really big one.
So in this case it would be replace the nut as per Rivets suggestion
Flip the deck and support it on some 2x4 so the pulley is clear.
using a flat ended toll on the hammer , put it in the middle of the nut, push down ( sit on it if you like ) and pull the trigger.

On a similar vein you can put a pair of sissor jacks under the pulley and load it up till it is just about to bend.
Hammer on the shaft and when the jacks come loose tighten them up.
Heat is good, penetrating fluid on a warm shaft then let it soak in works good too.

I have a air chisel and compressor and like that idea. I don't think I have a hammer end but I will check. I think I bought mine +25 years ago and have used it to break up concrete in small areas in the past.

Before I replace the bearings I want to check the pulley alignment again just to make sure that isn't causing the deck belt to jump off.

thanks for the idea..

dji1 said:

I have a air chisel and compressor and like that idea. I don't think I have a hammer end but I will check. I think I bought mine +25 years ago and have used it to break up concrete in small areas in the past.

Before I replace the bearings I want to check the pulley alignment again just to make sure that isn't causing the deck belt to jump off.

thanks for the idea..

Click to expand...

Neither did I when I first tried it.
Ground the pointy bit to a big round end but it still would expand the shaft like peening over a rivet if I was not careful.
The hammer end is called a plenishing bit and I am sorry I did not buy one years ago as I use it lot when repairing decks.
I can virtually sit on it then turn it on so I am making 20,000 100kg blows a minute but they are only 1/2 " so you can really move metal around.
Thus oxy welds that I used to grind smooth I can now plenish smooth thus retaining the extra metal thickness and work hardening the weld thus stiffening the repair.
The idea of the preload is to stop the hammer causing balls to hammer into the races.
Also excellent for removing wheels that have rusted solid onto rear axels .
The axel is only held in by a circilp agains some alloy and it is really easy to wreck the housing.
We have a local brand ( Cox ) who fit cast alloy wheels onto a steel tapper with a locating key and prior to this SOP was to change the tyres on the mower.
Now I can pull them off every couple of years

I do not have your model number but they still sell your spindle.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Spindle-Assembly-for-Murray-1001046-492574MA/458783796?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=7093&adid=22222222227072398317&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=183124755058&wl4=pla-288019228497&wl5=9023810&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115068206&wl11=online&wl12=458783796&wl13=&veh=sem

BlazNT said:

I do not have your model number but they still sell your spindle.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Spindle-Assembly-for-Murray-1001046-492574MA/458783796?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=7093&adid=22222222227072398317&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=183124755058&wl4=pla-288019228497&wl5=9023810&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115068206&wl11=online&wl12=458783796&wl13=&veh=sem

Click to expand...

Chuck may be right ...this might be the better way to go ...


I think it may be possible to replace the entire spindle & pulley assy. parts ...can you provide mower model # & year of Mfg.
Ive done several Murray spindle rebuilds and have most of the P/Ns available yet. only thing I would be concerned about is the measurements of your components ... it just might be possible to convert to later model parts ... do YOU have any of the original P/Ns available ??? Heres some pics of what I know is available study the DIFFERENT TYPE spindle housings pics let me know what you think ...

...

......

......

In picture #2 do you see the tab at about 12 o'clock to the shaft? Take punch and fold that tab up alongside the shaft and I think you will be able to move that lock ring.

Also check here to see if they have the parts you need: https://www.stenspartsdirect.com/ the office is in Waco but they ship out of a Dallas location and have had parts for an old Murray I have.
Tom

Boobala said:

Chuck may be right ...this might be the better way to go ...


I think it may be possible to replace the entire spindle & pulley assy. parts ...can you provide mower model # & year of Mfg.
Ive done several Murray spindle rebuilds and have most of the P/Ns available yet. only thing I would be concerned about is the measurements of your components ... it just might be possible to convert to later model parts ... do YOU have any of the original P/Ns available ??? Heres some pics of what I know is available study the DIFFERENT TYPE spindle housings pics let me know what you think ...

View attachment 32430...View attachment 32429

View attachment 32431...View attachment 32432...View attachment 32433

View attachment 32434...View attachment 32435...View attachment 32436

View attachment 32437

Click to expand...

All well & good but you can not get the spindle housing off the deck until you remove the top pulley which is rusted on
The OP can not get the pulley off which was the original problem.

bertsmobile1 said:

All well & good but you can not get the spindle housing off the deck until you remove the top pulley which is rusted on
The OP can not get the pulley off which was the original problem.

Click to expand...

If he commits to an entire new spindle assy. ....... a 4 1/2" grinder and an electric sawzall will make short change of the originals ...BUT FIRST must be sure of pulley sizing and base of spindle housing for mounting bolts I recently paid $17.00 each for a new housing WITH the bearings & inner spacer installed ... I of course used my shafts, spacer (outer), pulleys, blade adapters, washers & nuts ( those are what I call the LOW-CROWN model housings )

Rear 8 hp motor

Model # 7-830 RD

Date of Man: 5-30702X57A 0393

I bought this +20 years ago and never had a manual for it.

Pumper54 said:

In picture #2 do you see the tab at about 12 o'clock to the shaft? Take punch and fold that tab up alongside the shaft and I think you will be able to move that lock ring.

Also check here to see if they have the parts you need: https://www.stenspartsdirect.com/ the office is in Waco but they ship out of a Dallas location and have had parts for an old Murray I have.
Tom

Click to expand...

Thanks Tom. I will also checkout this parts site.

There are no springs, clips, tabs, retaining washers etc etc etc.
The shaft is strait with a forged flange on the blade end,
The pulley has a slot cut in it to go over the 1/2 round. ( moon to some ) key in the shaft.
Once the nut comes off the pulley it simply pulls off, if it has not rusted on solid like yours.
The pulley is quite thin & easily damaged and is NLA so be careful removing it.
The entire assembly is replaceable so you can smack the end and drive the shaft through.
Some degreaser followed by rust remover will work wonders as will heat then pouring some penetrating fluid on the shaft to break the rust seal.

I stand corrected, as Bert pointed out what I thought was a locking tab (picture #2) is actually the key in the key slot.
Tom