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Raptor SD cut quality - any recommendations?

#1

M

mooch91

All,

I love my Raptor SD 54, but I've been a little disappointed in the cut quality. I stepped up from a 36" Snapper Pro walk-behind that would vacuum and cut the lawn and make it look like a carpet when done.

The Raptor is doing a good job, just not excellent. It doesn't seem to get that vacuum effect like the Snapper did. For example, I used to run over twigs and sticks on the Snapper, and it would pick them up, chop them a bit, and spit them out. I've noticed that the Hustler rarely, if ever, lifts a twig or stick from the lawn. Same with stones - the edge of my property has a row of stones that I used to have to be careful with when using the Snapper (as it would lift them and discharge them). I can run over the stone edge with the Hustler with no worries of it lifting them up. With the Raptor, it generally seems as if the grass will lay down a bit while being cut instead of being lifted.

Seems as if I could get some more vacuum under the deck that I'd be able to get a better cut with the Raptor SD. At least that's my thought of what could improve the situation. I don't see anything else wrong with the mower (deck is level, blades are sharp), except for a little bit of clutch rattle when engaging the blades (but I don't suspect this would cause the cut issue).

Any recommendations on specific blades that can accomplish this? I know there are 5 blades listed in the Hustler parts manual (including what looks like Gator blades and high lift blades), but it's very hard to get a clear idea of what blade will work best to accomplish what I'm looking for. Some say the gators are the way to go, others say go high lift, but not a lot of reasons as to why to choose one over the other. I'd prefer some real-world experience as to which would be best to improve the cut quality. I don't want to keep buying blades (at 3 of them) to experiment.

Thanks!!!


#2

S

SeniorCitizen

What blades does it have now?


#3

M

mooch91

What blades does it have now?

Whatever is the "stock" blade...


#4

M

mooch91

Here are the Hustler blade number from the parts manual:
601124 3 BLADE, 18.50"-L-F-CW
601012 3 BLADE, F18.50"-L-F-CW
797696 3 BLADE, F18.50"-H-F-CW
797704 3 BLADE, 18.50"-MUL-F-CW
797712 3 BLADE, 18.50"-GAT-F-CW

When I cross reference the Hustler blade numbers on the Oregon website, I come up with the following:
HUSTLER 601124 92-208 BLADE
HUSTLER 601124 Option Oregonョ Exclusive 596-808 BLADE, GATOR G5 HUSTLER 18-1/2 IN
HUSTLER 601124 Option 92-738 BLADE, HUSTLER 18-1/2 IN


#5

S

SeniorCitizen

It seems as if there could be any one of 5 listed in the manual as stock that could be on the mower . Which one is it?


#6

M

mooch91

It seems as if there could be any one of 5 listed in the manual as stock that could be on the mower . Which one is it?

I'll try to find out from Hustler on Monday. The descriptions are kind of vague to understand the differences. My guess would be the first one, but that's only a guess.


#7

S

SeniorCitizen

For lift as in side discharge or bagging, the closer a blade conforms to the blade with the added wings of a snapper rear engine rider the better.

It seems manufacturers or dealers are pushing the combination blades ( side discharge / mulch ) that don't do either very well. They make me think of a combination rip/crosscut saw blade we can get by with but that's about all.

My JD came with a combination blade but on my ranch land grass and weeds it really doesn't matter to me and I don't even bother sharpening the supposedly mulch part of the blade.


#8

Ric

Ric

Here are the Hustler blade number from the parts manual:
601124 3 BLADE, 18.50"-L-F-CW
601012 3 BLADE, F18.50"-L-F-CW
797696 3 BLADE, F18.50"-H-F-CW
797704 3 BLADE, 18.50"-MUL-F-CW
797712 3 BLADE, 18.50"-GAT-F-CW

When I cross reference the Hustler blade numbers on the Oregon website, I come up with the following:
HUSTLER 601124 92-208 BLADE
HUSTLER 601124 Option Oregonョ Exclusive 596-808 BLADE, GATOR G5 HUSTLER 18-1/2 IN
HUSTLER 601124 Option 92-738 BLADE, HUSTLER 18-1/2 IN

If you want more vacuum out of the deck that most likely wont happen with changing blades. The Blades listed above are for a specific job and probably wont effect the deck vacuum. Seems to me that vacuum would have more to do with the size, depth and design of the deck than the blades. The G5 / 596-808 is the best of the blades above.


#9

K

Kremeneon

I have the Gator G5 #596-808 on my RSD54. Love them. Holding one side by side with Factory blade will make you laugh. they are 1/2" wider, thicker metal, and the rakes on the back, wow... scary...

I have found no legitimate downside yet to them vs factory blades. They are superior in every way: better cut, more vacuum, smaller cuttings, discharge further, hold edge longer. Maybe the only thing you could complain about is more wind noise.

Mine weren't bad out of the package, but I took care to balance them on a 5/8" bearing I have stuck to the side of my workbench. Since the blades are heavier it is a bit more important to get the balance right. All three needed a little shave to get them perfect according to the bearing.


#10

Ric

Ric

I have the Gator G5 #596-808 on my RSD54. Love them. Holding one side by side with Factory blade will make you laugh. they are 1/2" wider, thicker metal, and the rakes on the back, wow... scary...

I have found no legitimate downside yet to them vs factory blades. They are superior in every way: better cut, more vacuum, smaller cuttings, discharge further, hold edge longer. Maybe the only thing you could complain about is more wind noise.

Mine weren't bad out of the package, but I took care to balance them on a 5/8" bearing I have stuck to the side of my workbench. Since the blades are heavier it is a bit more important to get the balance right. All three needed a little shave to get them perfect according to the bearing.

The G5 Gatotor blade should improve the cut quality of the mower, the only down fall to using the blade is that you could possibly loose some blade tip speed because they are a little heavier. The thing I like is the extended cutting length, I think that itself can make a big difference. I use the G6 blades on my mowers.


#11

K

Kremeneon

The G5 Gatotor blade should improve the cut quality of the mower, the only down fall to using the blade is that you could possibly loose some blade tip speed because they are a little heavier. The thing I like is the extended cutting length, I think that itself can make a big difference. I use the G6 blades on my mowers.


I don't see how any loss of speed could happen unless something is slipping. Governed RPM is the same regardless of blades and nothing is slowing down unless the engine is already at wide open throttle and doesn't have enough torque to keep up.

I think the extended edge is most of why the clippings are smaller, more chance to get re-cut before making it out the side.


#12

Ric

Ric

I don't see how any loss of speed could happen unless something is slipping. Governed RPM is the same regardless of blades and nothing is slowing down unless the engine is already at wide open throttle and doesn't have enough torque to keep up.

I think the extended edge is most of why the clippings are smaller, more chance to get re-cut before making it out the side.


I would think the added thickness of the blade could possibly slow it down. I went from a blade with a thickness of .164 to the G6 @ .250


#13

K

Kremeneon

I would think the added thickness of the blade could possibly slow it down. I went from a blade with a thickness of .164 to the G6 @ .250

I think the added mass and windage might increase engine load a bit, and fuel use, but I don't see RPM changing. compare it to towing a trailer in your car. you still have plenty of power to go faster than speed limit, but maintaining the limit your foot is a little deeper into the throttle.


#14

ztrjim

ztrjim

I recommend getting new blades, Gator G5 596-808


#15

M

mooch91

I recommend getting new blades, Gator G5 596-808

Got em this week:
PhotoNov22123136PM_zps5621c47a.jpg


PhotoNov22123146PM_zps86ae20cf.jpg


Installed them today and will probably cut with them tomorrow. Not a great test because the lawn is already starting to go in to winter dormancy, but I'll see how it goes.

One thing I noticed - I was borderline with the engine cutting out while engaging the blades before I installed the G5s. Since the G5s, I need to keep the throttle all the way up to engage without stalling the engine.

Seems others are also having issues (clutch?) so I may need a service visit next season.


#16

R

Rail5042

Not sure if they make that much of a difference in cut but they do keep the deck cleaner. I start mine at half throttle with no issues.


#17

K

Kremeneon

Yes those are my precious blades. love those Gators. I accidentally pulverized a fist size chunk of concrete with them, which may have put a tiny dent in the edge....

As mentioned, check them for good balance before installing.

They do take a little more effort to spin up so it might take a little more throttle to not stall out, but I by no means have to run it to full RPM to engage, I'm still around the PTO start picture on the throttle.


#18

M

mooch91

OP back...

Still having trouble getting a good cut with my 54" RSD. I put the Gator G5 blades on late last season, and now cut twice this spring. First cut was a "clean up" cut - didn't take much off. The cut yesterday was after a week with some good rain, probably took an inch off the grass with cutting at 3.25".

Still getting "windrows" of grass and lots of "stragglers" left behind. I'm going to experiment with a couple of things:
  • Drop cutting height to 3". It seems as if there is a magic point at 3" where the mower tends to lay and blow more than stand and cut. I'm going to try a little shorter to see how it does.
  • See if I can cut/adjust the discharge chute to get a straighter, more open discharge than a directed one. The RSD deck does not have a square discharge out the side to where I can just lift or remove the chute to test this out. It needs some sort of blockage along the top to push the clippings out the side and not allow them to blow out the top. I'll have to fabricate something or put a flat cut on the plastic chute itself.

Pics from yesterday's cut:
F117940B-6643-4729-BF0A-97D920A0AC24_zpsldezvyzk.jpg


F699A091-430E-447B-9D17-E5B094C5E796_zpsd0kt8gkd.jpg


#19

K

Kremeneon

I get stragglers if I ground speed is too fast for the bulk being removed. I think the green matter churning under the deck pushes some blades down.

I get windrows also if the chute is completely down. I raise it to about 30 degrees if I am not near any obstacles and the clipping throw is doubled or tripled and not deposited in the first 5' to the side anymore.

some of those look like ejected clumps too. not sure how to resolve that, seems to be a moisture issue in the grass being cut.


#20

M

MRCo.

Anyone else thinks that grass looks pretty damn good?!?!? :) Nice yard.

That's some thick looking grass. The RSD deck is shallower and will have some issues with real heavy material volumes as such. A rule of thumb for grass health and cut quality is at most remove 1/3 of grass length, perhaps cut it a touch more often?


#21

W

whelch1

I think if you were to use a set of high lift blades it would give you a better cut. It should give you better lift and discharge.


#22

M

mooch91

Anyone else thinks that grass looks pretty damn good?!?!? :) Nice yard.

That's some thick looking grass. The RSD deck is shallower and will have some issues with real heavy material volumes as such. A rule of thumb for grass health and cut quality is at most remove 1/3 of grass length, perhaps cut it a touch more often?

I did a cut after the one pictured at TWO DAYS and still got some visible clippings. It's hard to find time more than once a week to be out there cutting.

Thanks for the compliments on the lawn. Definitely lush, at least this time of year.


#23

S

SeniorCitizen

Two elements determine the discharge and even dispersing of clippings for a clean cut but only one is thought to be the problem by owners of mowers and that one element is the blades. Change to this blade or that blade is usually the suggestion with disappointing results.

The second element is deck design and the engineering relationship of the blade to the deck. There are just some mowers that will never do the job you want to see no matter what blade is installed.

I'm sure this isn't what anyone that spends thousands for their pretty mower wants to read or hear but it is fact.


#24

M

mooch91

Two elements determine the discharge and even dispersing of clippings for a clean cut but only one is thought to be the problem by owners of mowers and that one element is the blades. Change to this blade or that blade is usually the suggestion with disappointing results.

The second element is deck design and the engineering relationship of the blade to the deck. There are just some mowers that will never do the job you want to see no matter what blade is installed.

I'm sure this isn't what anyone that spends thousands for their pretty mower wants to read or hear but it is fact.

I'm bought in with this idea, but what no one ever talks about is what attributes of either the blades or deck actually have an impact on cut quality. As an engineer, I'd love for someone to be able to point to something specific on the deck of my mower that is causing the issues I see.

I had a similar question about blade design that I posted on this forum or another some time back. I see so many posts where people suggest, "try high lift blades", or "try gator blades", but so little discussion of the science behind why one blade might be better than another for its intended purpose.

Not arguing with your point at all, just wishing we as an internet community could get more science behind the discussion to help understand the issues we're seeing, or at least help others make good choices.


#25

Ric

Ric

I'm bought in with this idea, but what no one ever talks about is what attributes of either the blades or deck actually have an impact on cut quality. As an engineer, I'd love for someone to be able to point to something specific on the deck of my mower that is causing the issues I see.

I had a similar question about blade design that I posted on this forum or another some time back. I see so many posts where people suggest, "try high lift blades", or "try gator blades", but so little discussion of the science behind why one blade might be better than another for its intended purpose.

Not arguing with your point at all, just wishing we as an internet community could get more science behind the discussion to help understand the issues we're seeing, or at least help others make good choices.


I think if you were to use a set of high lift blades it would give you a better cut. It should give you better lift and discharge.


The Gator blade is a High Lift Blade and mulches. It's design to to reduce the size of the clippings which gives a finer discharge. The teeth on the gator blade are angled toward the center of the blade [SIZE=-1] to redirect the airflow and push the grass clippings back over the cutting edge of the mower blade again and again, the grass is cut multiple times before discharge [/SIZE]and faster breakdown of the grass. The op made mention that his deck is level, if so that could be the reason his cut quality is suffering.


#26

S

SeniorCitizen

I'm bought in with this idea, but what no one ever talks about is what attributes of either the blades or deck actually have an impact on cut quality. As an engineer, I'd love for someone to be able to point to something specific on the deck of my mower that is causing the issues I see.

I had a similar question about blade design that I posted on this forum or another some time back. I see so many posts where people suggest, "try high lift blades", or "try gator blades", but so little discussion of the science behind why one blade might be better than another for its intended purpose.

Not arguing with your point at all, just wishing we as an internet community could get more science behind the discussion to help understand the issues we're seeing, or at least help others make good choices.

I'm just a self educated enjiner but I can tell you about the best mower I ever had for discharging / clean cut and a weed whacker edger was never needed to trim.

It was about 40 years ago when I was poor as a snake and raising 3 kids. I needed a mower, pusher of all things. I had an old engine from somewhere, probably the old Homeko mower that had a failed two speed, a blade from a mower shop. An old ugly yellow deck that looked like a doughnut, ( think Snapper RER with a depression for the engine ) 4 adjustable wheels and a handle from a co worker that kept a few old mowers around. So looking back this pusher was built up from at least 5 mowers.

Now, here is what made it work. The eng. shaft was too long so I cut a 3/4" thick plywood ring to elevate a little but the blade tip still was down at the bottom deck edge or just a little below and to top that off the blade only missed the deck about an 1/8". One did not place his boot toe anywhere close to the deck with it running. Just avoid that area even with steel toed boots.

Why wasn't a trimmer edger needed? It would suck 6" long grass from around a tree, off of a brick wall or from chain link fence. It even wanted some of that tall grass on the opposite side of the fence.:laughing:

It's last breath was the day we expanded the mowing area here at the ranch and went for a rider. The day I took it to the scrapper it still had the wooden LF wheel I had made from a 2x10 after the plastic wheel hub fell completely out taking a corner too fast.

That's my story and I'm sticken to it.


#27

1

1striper1

So where does front to back deck level adjustment come into play when using Gator Blades? I can't say what the OP's deck adj. spec is but on my Xone it's 1/4" lower in front than back. This goes against everything I've used when adjusting the deck on a garden tractor....which is 1/4 HIGHER in front.

I'm wondering if all the posts about wanting a better quality of cut...if the OPs' would adjust the decks to run 1/4" high in front. I've now got my XOne running 1/4" high in front with Gator blades. Just need the grass to grow to see if the QOC is better and leaving behind smaller clippings.


#28

M

mooch91

So where does front to back deck level adjustment come into play when using Gator Blades? I can't say what the OP's deck adj. spec is but on my Xone it's 1/4" lower in front than back. This goes against everything I've used when adjusting the deck on a garden tractor....which is 1/4 HIGHER in front.

I'm wondering if all the posts about wanting a better quality of cut...if the OPs' would adjust the decks to run 1/4" high in front. I've now got my XOne running 1/4" high in front with Gator blades. Just need the grass to grow to see if the QOC is better and leaving behind smaller clippings.

Another great question. I've been using the owner's manual recommendation of level on the deck. I've set it a dozen times now, have always checked my floor to confirm exactly level.

Again, this also appears to be another one of those long-standing debates on the forums. From what I've read, 1/8 - 1/4" DOWN in front is the preferred setting for cut quality and vacuum. Raising it HIGH in the front causes double-cutting which robs power and causes an uneven appearance.

That said, I did recently drop it just a hair in the front. I set it about 1/8" lower and then lowered the front adjusters each another turn. The appearance looked good this last Sunday when I mowed, but that was after only 2 days of growth, so I'll give it a shot later this week to see how it does.

Unfortunately when I have the deck at an angle, I seem to have a problem with the lift pedal on the deck. It bottoms out before it engages/disengages the lock; I have to "put it through the floor" to get the deck to disengage. I did my setting at 3 1/4" with 3" blocks under the deck; I may need to set it at 3 1/2" with the 3" blocks to give the pedal a little more room to lift the deck (deck overall may be up too high).


#29

Ric

Ric

So where does front to back deck level adjustment come into play when using Gator Blades? I can't say what the OP's deck adj. spec is but on my Xone it's 1/4" lower in front than back. This goes against everything I've used when adjusting the deck on a garden tractor....which is 1/4 HIGHER in front.

I'm wondering if all the posts about wanting a better quality of cut...if the OPs' would adjust the decks to run 1/4" high in front. I've now got my XOne running 1/4" high in front with Gator blades. Just need the grass to grow to see if the QOC is better and leaving behind smaller clippings.

What type of blade your using doesn't matter, it can be a gator blade or what ever. You measure blade tip. In most conditions the back blade tip should be adjusted 1/4" higher than the front for the correct pitch on the deck. If your a 1/4" higher in the front you may end up getting a face full of grass because it will blow out the front of the deck because you wont be creating enough lift.


#30

M

mooch91

Spent a frustrating Friday cutting 5 days worth of dry growth from my lawn at about 3" high. It had not rained during the previous 5 days but the night before we got a bit of drizzle, leaving the lawn damp when I had to cut it that morning. Had to TRIPLE cut to get this:

AC1191F7-96F9-455C-B77C-29FCCA38425A_zpssiwnvili.jpg


Cleaned this mess from under the deck:

17DE5770-DFE5-46DC-9F67-8ADFB3BA469B_zpsjush5u5i.jpg


Went to see my local dealer. When I told him I was using the Gator G5s, he told me he's not surprised that I'm having discharge and clumping issues, saying the blades are better suited to mulching. He also recommended pitching the deck 1/4" forward.

He gave me a set of the high lift blades and asked that I try them with the deck pitched forward.

731D01FD-8AD6-4B5F-88EC-669663B1BE0B_zpsg7vxhj4u.jpg


2B4F574B-C712-449D-866D-8D152CFCCD02_zpskn9d1lus.jpg


8FCD3C5B-0B26-47F3-ACCD-86BA4469C62B_zpsv5oguxqc.jpg


Installed them yesterday. Will try a cut today (though only two days of dry growth). I also installed a both adjacent to the discharge chute to level it out a bit so it's not pointing downward (raises it about 1").


#31

1

1striper1

What type of blade your using doesn't matter, it can be a gator blade or what ever. You measure blade tip. In most conditions the back blade tip should be adjusted 1/4" higher than the front for the correct pitch on the deck. If your a 1/4" higher in the front you may end up getting a face full of grass because it will blow out the front of the deck because you wont be creating enough lift.

Not debating...just asking......so why are most lawn tractor decks set high in front for most any type of cutting? Blade tip speed?

Mowed for the first time yesterday with the deck raised 1/4" in front and the front baffles all the way down. So far so good and no grass blowing out the front.

All one can do it TRY it I suppose. See how it works for them.


#32

Ric

Ric

Spent a frustrating Friday cutting 5 days worth of dry growth from my lawn at about 3" high. It had not rained during the previous 5 days but the night before we got a bit of drizzle, leaving the lawn damp when I had to cut it that morning. Had to TRIPLE cut to get this:

AC1191F7-96F9-455C-B77C-29FCCA38425A_zpssiwnvili.jpg


Cleaned this mess from under the deck:

17DE5770-DFE5-46DC-9F67-8ADFB3BA469B_zpsjush5u5i.jpg


Went to see my local dealer. When I told him I was using the Gator G5s, he told me he's not surprised that I'm having discharge and clumping issues, saying the blades are better suited to mulching. He also recommended pitching the deck 1/4" forward.

He gave me a set of the high lift blades and asked that I try them with the deck pitched forward.

Installed them yesterday. Will try a cut today (though only two days of dry growth). I also installed a both adjacent to the discharge chute to level it out a bit so it's not pointing downward (raises it about 1").

The Gator blades are High lift as well as mulching blades. I'll bet if you pitch your deck forward and leave the Gator blades on you wont have that mess. If you triple cut that and you have that left there's something else wrong. I mow wet grass all the time and I never have discharge problems with Gator blades and never leave anything like that, if I did I wouldn't have many clients .


#33

M

mooch91

The Gator blades are High lift as well as mulching blades. I'll bet if you pitch your deck forward and leave the Gator blades on you wont have that mess. If you triple cut that and you have that left there's something else wrong. I mow wet grass all the time and I never have discharge problems with Gator blades and never leave anything like that, if I did I wouldn't have many clients .

My deck had at least a 1/8" pitch with the gator blades.

So I'll try the new setup and see how it works.

What else could be the issue? Belt/spindles slipping?

Or, again, a fundamental design issue with this mower creating the problem?

The engine never bogs down, always runs strong.


#34

1

1striper1

Spent a frustrating Friday cutting 5 days worth of dry growth from my lawn at about 3" high. It had not rained during the previous 5 days but the night before we got a bit of drizzle, leaving the lawn damp when I had to cut it that morning. Had to TRIPLE cut to get this:

AC1191F7-96F9-455C-B77C-29FCCA38425A_zpssiwnvili.jpg


Cleaned this mess from under the deck:

17DE5770-DFE5-46DC-9F67-8ADFB3BA469B_zpsjush5u5i.jpg


Went to see my local dealer. When I told him I was using the Gator G5s, he told me he's not surprised that I'm having discharge and clumping issues, saying the blades are better suited to mulching. He also recommended pitching the deck 1/4" forward.

He gave me a set of the high lift blades and asked that I try them with the deck pitched forward.

731D01FD-8AD6-4B5F-88EC-669663B1BE0B_zpsg7vxhj4u.jpg


2B4F574B-C712-449D-866D-8D152CFCCD02_zpskn9d1lus.jpg


8FCD3C5B-0B26-47F3-ACCD-86BA4469C62B_zpsv5oguxqc.jpg


Installed them yesterday. Will try a cut today (though only two days of dry growth). I also installed a both adjacent to the discharge chute to level it out a bit so it's not pointing downward (raises it about 1").


That's what my lawn looked like last year right after I got my 60" XOne but it is a rear discharge. Deck was down 1/4" when I bought it.


#35

M

mooch91

If any day should have been a day to get a good quality cut, today was it. Only two days since the last cut, very dry the past couple of days, and lawn was dry this morning.

Again, trying with the high lift blades, a completely clean deck, pitched 1/4" forward, and chute raised up about an inch.

The results:

DEFF0DA8-9C31-4799-A3C2-1188A0C64E3E_zpsrvdkgfga.jpg


F3CDB79E-52DF-4151-BE8F-26B2E455B110_zpsbfnyncei.jpg


The stripes were awesome today, and the mower cleaned up the last of the small clumps left over from Friday. Not a windrow anywhere.

But I'll need to give it a few days and mow again to see if the results can be sustained.

The mod I made to the discharge chute, for those interested - very simply, 5/16" bolt in through the hole to space the chute "up":

59DBDA47-72EE-4FC3-AA89-447E0A9BE304_zpsdvtnny6s.jpg


#36

F

ffk_pennywise

I like your chute mod. I'll have to try that this week.

When you pitch the deck, are you dropping the front or raising the rear? Does it even matter?


#37

M

mooch91

When you pitch the deck, are you dropping the front or raising the rear? Does it even matter?

I dropped the front.

It does kind of matter. If you follow the procedure in the manual (put 3" blocks under the deck, set deck to 3.25" with the pin and raise the deck with the nuts until it just lifts off the blocks) and then raise the rear of the deck another 1/4", you can get it to a point where the foot pedal becomes ineffective at getting the deck to unlatch. The foot pedal has a stop against the mower frame that prevents it from lifting high enough to unlatch when you add that extra 1/4". So my suggestion would be to follow the procedure and use a 2.75" block at the front, or drop the front 1/4" once it's set.


#38

F

ffk_pennywise

Got it!

Thanks.


#39

M

mooch91

I like your chute mod. I'll have to try that this week.

I'm still debating cutting off the chute square to the deck right at the edge of the deck to really open it up. I have another chute on order to tinker with it if I choose. Though this seemed to work much better (in combination with the blades and mowing conditions) for now.


#40

1

1striper1

Mowed 5 days worth of very dry growth today. It was long. Probably took off over an inch, at least. No clumping, but definitely some clippings left behind on the lawn. Deck stayed reasonably clean. Since I have a new chute on order, I'm going to try to cut the chute off square with the end of the deck to see if it helps at all.

Definitely better, but not perfect.

I think the only way you're going to get the "perfect" that you want is by bagging the clippings. I'd be giddy if I got the results you're getting.


#41

Ric

Ric

Mowed 5 days worth of very dry growth today. It was long. Probably took off over an inch, at least. No clumping, but definitely some clippings left behind on the lawn. Deck stayed reasonably clean. Since I have a new chute on order, I'm going to try to cut the chute off square with the end of the deck to see if it helps at all.

Definitely better, but not perfect.


Unless your planning on a five day mowing schedule I'd say you have more problems than you know. I mean really, your mowing 5 days worth of very dry growth with a mower that has a 18.900 FPM Blade tip speed and mowing only just over an inch of grass and your still leaving clippings icon_scratch.png something is wrong. Cutting off the chute isn't going to solve your problem.


#42

1

1striper1

Unless your planning on a five day mowing schedule I'd say you have more problems than you know. I mean really, your mowing 5 days worth of very dry growth with a mower that has a 18.900 FPM Blade tip speed and mowing only just over an inch of grass and your still leaving clippings View attachment 26121 something is wrong. Cutting off the chute isn't going to solve your problem.

20141007_112027.jpg


Could be very well that nothing is wrong. Look at what I was getting last summer with my Hustler XOne 60" RD in conditions that sounded similar to what the OP is dealing with.

One would think yes, with the extreme blade speed a ZTR is running that the blades would turn the clippings into dust.....but they don't.

EDIT - this is the result with Gator blades


#43

M

mooch91

I think the only way you're going to get the "perfect" that you want is by bagging the clippings. I'd be giddy if I got the results you're getting.

I keep coming back to this...I think I got spoiled all those years I could bag my 1/4 acre property. Now that I've got 1.5 acres, bagging isn't possible. So perhaps I need to get used to a small quantity of clippings.

Then I'm at my son's soccer game yesterday and noticed that the municipal field, which had been cut recently (and couldn't have possibly been bagged), didn't have any evidence of clippings.

So I don't know if I'm expecting too much or if I've still got a problem...


#44

Ric

Ric

I keep coming back to this...I think I got spoiled all those years I could bag my 1/4 acre property. Now that I've got 1.5 acres, bagging isn't possible. So perhaps I need to get used to a small quantity of clippings.

Then I'm at my son's soccer game yesterday and noticed that the municipal field, which had been cut recently (and couldn't have possibly been bagged), didn't have any evidence of clippings.

So I don't know if I'm expecting too much or if I've still got a problem...


High lift blades wont give you small quantity of clippings, That's what Gator blades are designed to do. When you look at municipal fields, ball parks, football fields and such most will be a special grass like Bermuda and be cut with real mowers not a rotary mower the same with a Golf Coarse and there cut 2 or 3 times weekly so you can't compare them to your lawn. I use the G6 blades on both the Stander and ZTR and mow ever 7 days and I never leave clippings that you'll see and I'll cut off as much as 3 or 4 inches of grass off. I'll post some before and after pictures of a lawn I'll do in the morning with the g6 blades. for comparison.


#45

M

mooch91

I'll post some before and after pictures of a lawn I'll do in the morning with the g6 blades. for comparison.

Please, thanks!


#46

1

1striper1

Please, thanks!

Yes please. Ric - what type(s) of grass are you cutting and with what brand of equipment?

EDIT - sorry....I see what you have now. A 60" Toro Z-Master 2000 is on my list of possibilities for my new ZTR purchase.


#47

Ric

Ric

Yes please. Ric - what type(s) of grass are you cutting and with what brand of equipment?

EDIT - sorry....I see what you have now. A 60" Toro Z-Master 2000 is on my list of possibilities for my new ZTR purchase.

I use Toro Equipment My Z-Master 2000 is a 48" you can look at my signature for my equipment list below. Most of my Grass Types are St. Augustine, Bahia Grass, Fescue, Bermuda, and a mix of all mentioned. Most of the lawns I cut are both St. Augustine and Bahia depending on the quality sub-division and who is building the homes. I do lawns in one sub-division that is all strictly Bahia.

The thing is most of the time when I start mowing at 7:30 in the morning I've got 90 to100% humidity so the grass is really wet and when you couple the Humidity with people who water at 4 or 5 in the morning some lawns are really wet and the g6 blades do a great job, that's why I don't understand his problem and say there's something else wrong.


#48

1

1striper1

Most of the lawns I cut are both St. Augustine and Bahia depending on the quality sub-division and who is building the homes. I do lawns in one sub-division that is all strictly Bahia.

The thing is most of the time when I start mowing at 7:30 in the morning I've got 90 to100% humidity so the grass is really wet and when you couple the Humidity with people who water at 4 or 5 in the morning some lawns are really wet and the g6 blades do a great job, that's why I don't understand his problem and say there's something else wrong.

I'd bet that mooch is cutting mainly KB with a little fescue and rye mixed in. Typical northern cool season grasses. Very dense and lots of blades to cut up vs. what you are cutting. Golf courses up by us (northern peeps) do leave clippings unlike the many southern courses I have played where it seems like the grass just disappears when it's cut.

IMO...the only thing "wrong" is that he's got a Hustler deck, which for whatever reason doesn't leave a clean cut on lush northern grasses and what appears to be a heavy KB lawn.

G5's, G6's or whatever else.....the clippings aren't TOTALLY going to go away right after they're cut.


#49

Ric

Ric

I'd bet that mooch is cutting mainly KB with a little fescue and rye mixed in. Typical northern cool season grasses. Very dense and lots of blades to cut up vs. what you are cutting. Golf courses up by us (northern peeps) do leave clippings unlike the many southern courses I have played where it seems like the grass just disappears when it's cut.

IMO...the only thing "wrong" is that he's got a Hustler deck, which for whatever reason doesn't leave a clean cut on lush northern grasses and what appears to be a heavy KB lawn.

G5's, G6's or whatever else.....the clippings aren't TOTALLY going to go away right after they're cut.

I'm assuming your talking about Kentucky Blue Grass when you say KB and if that's what he has he's cutting it at the wrong height by the look of his pictures and that could be one of his problems. I don't agree with the clipping not going totally away because with a double cut they should disappear and he said he triple cut so there is no excuse for clippings being left. I personally feel like the dealership sold the mower and it wasn't properly set up and they sold him a bill of goods blaming the cut on the gator blades and selling him another set of high lifts when he already had high lift blades on the machine.


#50

1

1striper1

I'm assuming your talking about Kentucky Blue Grass when you say KB and if that's what he has he's cutting it at the wrong height by the look of his pictures and that could be one of his problems. I don't agree with the clipping not going totally away because with a double cut they should disappear and he said he triple cut so there is no excuse for clippings being left. I personally feel like the dealership sold the mower and it wasn't properly set up and they sold him a bill of goods blaming the cut on the gator blades and selling him another set of high lifts when he already had high lift blades on the machine.

Yes Ric, I was referring to Kentucky Bluegrass. As you and other stated earlier, height of cut and amount of blade being cut will have an effect. But IMO....you can triple cut KBG (sorry, I left out the "G" in my previous post) and you will still see it. Ask me how I know this? Because my lawn is 75% KBG and as I travel, sometimes I can't mow as often as I want and have to triple cut it. Whether it's my lawn tractor or now gone, XOne, the clippings are still there.

Maybe a good suggestion to mooch is to take it to a different Hustler dealer and have them go thru the deck and make sure the pulley springs are working right? Sounds as if mooch has a handle on deck leveling. The shallower deck that his Hustler has is not known for a good cut on northern grasses. Maybe southern grasses it's OK.


#51

Ric

Ric

Yes Ric, I was referring to Kentucky Bluegrass. As you and other stated earlier, height of cut and amount of blade being cut will have an effect. But IMO....you can triple cut KBG (sorry, I left out the "G" in my previous post) and you will still see it. Ask me how I know this? Because my lawn is 75% KBG and as I travel, sometimes I can't mow as often as I want and have to triple cut it. Whether it's my lawn tractor or now gone, XOne, the clippings are still there.

Maybe a good suggestion to mooch is to take it to a different Hustler dealer and have them go thru the deck and make sure the pulley springs are working right? Sounds as if mooch has a handle on deck leveling. The shallower deck that his Hustler has is not known for a good cut on northern grasses. Maybe southern grasses it's OK.


If the pictures he posted were KBG he should be cutting it at like 3 inches. and it's way to long considering he just cut it. As far as deck leveling goes that's another issue. I think the biggest issue for a lot of people when they buy a mower is they just don't realize what they need vs what they want before they buy. I think he has a mower that can do the job but he's going to work it and himself to death before he gets the lawn where it needs to be and to keep it there he will be mowing every four days with that hustler if he wants a pretty lawn, JMO


#52

1

1striper1

Here we agree RIc. The dealer didn't ask any or ask the right questions. He.just wanted to make a sale.

What about trying a mulch kit mooch? Don't know if it's going to get you what you want but it's worth a try.


#53

Ric

Ric

High lift blades wont give you small quantity of clippings, That's what Gator blades are designed to do. When you look at municipal fields, ball parks, football fields and such most will be a special grass like Bermuda and be cut with real mowers not a rotary mower the same with a Golf Coarse and there cut 2 or 3 times weekly so you can't compare them to your lawn. I use the G6 blades on both the Stander and ZTR and mow ever 7 days and I never leave clippings that you'll see and I'll cut off as much as 3 or 4 inches of grass off. I'll post some before and after pictures of a lawn I'll do in the morning with the g6 blades. for comparison.

Please, thanks!

Ok I said I'd post some pictures. The pictures of this lawn were taken this morning after the clients had watered so it was plenty wet as you can see the water standing in the flowerbed. The next picture is just as I was getting started. Third is the roadway portion after mowing once. The last four are when finished and there is no clippings left with the G6 Blades and I removed between 3 and 3.5 inches of St Augustine grass with no double cutting.

lawn 008.jpglawn 013.jpg lawn 031.jpg lawn 017.jpg lawn 016.jpg lawn 025.jpg lawn 026.jpg


#54

1

1striper1

Ok I said I'd post some pictures. The pictures of this lawn were taken this morning after the clients had watered so it was plenty wet as you can see the water standing in the flowerbed. The next picture is just as I was getting started. Third is the roadway portion after mowing once. The last four are when finished and there is no clippings left with the G6 Blades and I removed between 3 and 3.5 inches of St Augustine grass with no double cutting.

View attachment 26142View attachment 26136 View attachment 26137 View attachment 26138 View attachment 26139 View attachment 26140 View attachment 26141

Totally different kind of grass vs. KBG. Not near as dense IMO.

But it's just my opinion and nothing more.


#55

Ric

Ric

Totally different kind of grass vs. KBG. Not near as dense IMO.

But it's just my opinion and nothing more.


Kentucky blue grass is much like our Bahia grass, it's grows as a single chute with its own root system and the thicker it is the easier it is to cut, St Augustine grows on runners with multiple blades per runner and is a somewhat thick and coarse grass. The secret to cutting for all three is to cut at the right time frame and to the proper height.


#56

M

mooch91

Ok I said I'd post some pictures. The pictures of this lawn were taken this morning after the clients had watered so it was plenty wet as you can see the water standing in the flowerbed. The next picture is just as I was getting started. Third is the roadway portion after mowing once. The last four are when finished and there is no clippings left with the G6 Blades and I removed between 3 and 3.5 inches of St Augustine grass with no double cutting.

View attachment 26142View attachment 26136 View attachment 26137 View attachment 26138 View attachment 26139 View attachment 26140 View attachment 26141

Ric -

First off, lawn looks great! Very well maintained, neat and even cut. Love it!

I don't have any experience with southern grasses, but as 1striper1 has mentioned, the KBG/rye/fescue I'm cutting appears to be very thin bladed and dense compared to the pictures you've shown. I'm not sure if that makes a difference to the mower's ability to discharge, but I imagine it would.

I am planning to be more conscious of the pro cuts of some of the higher end properties in my neighborhood. I've convinced myself that they side discharge and don't leave clippings. Maybe I've just set my expectations too high based upon something that's not possible without bagging, no matter who you are or what type of mower you have.

I did catch the comment about cut height - I do tend to try to leave it a little longer (3.25 - 3.5") based upon reading I've done in the past. I will start reducing my cut height to 3" maximum. But I am curious - will the lawn grow less if I maintain a lower cut height? My assumption is the lawn grows at the same rate no matter what the cut height. So no matter if I cut at 2.75" or 3.5", I'm still taking off the same amount each week, meaning same quantity of clippings and no impact to discharge/cut quality. Is my thinking wrong here?

Thanks.


#57

Ric

Ric

Ric -

First off, lawn looks great! Very well maintained, neat and even cut. Love it!

I don't have any experience with southern grasses, but as 1striper1 has mentioned, the KBG/rye/fescue I'm cutting appears to be very thin bladed and dense compared to the pictures you've shown. I'm not sure if that makes a difference to the mower's ability to discharge, but I imagine it would.

I am planning to be more conscious of the pro cuts of some of the higher end properties in my neighborhood. I've convinced myself that they side discharge and don't leave clippings. Maybe I've just set my expectations too high based upon something that's not possible without bagging, no matter who you are or what type of mower you have.

I did catch the comment about cut height - I do tend to try to leave it a little longer (3.25 - 3.5") based upon reading I've done in the past. I will start reducing my cut height to 3" maximum. But I am curious - will the lawn grow less if I maintain a lower cut height? My assumption is the lawn grows at the same rate no matter what the cut height. So no matter if I cut at 2.75" or 3.5", I'm still taking off the same amount each week, meaning same quantity of clippings and no impact to discharge/cut quality. Is my thinking wrong here?

Thanks.

Well as I said your Kentucky blue grass is much like our Bahia grass, it's grows as a single chute with its own root system and like our Bahia is a thin blade grass and somewhat harder to cut. I can also tell you St.Augustine can be pretty dense grass. I can also tell you by looking at your photos the grass has been let go to long between cuttings and is not being cut short enough because the grass is lying down when your finished.

As far as cutting height goes you can cut KBG down to as low as 1.5 inches if you want during the cool times of the year where you are and increase your height during the summer months when it's hot to 3 inches for your location unless it gets extremely hot then maybe as much as 4 inches.

The growing rate of your grass could very with changes in the weather but I doubt you'll see much of a difference or if it has anything to do with the height it's cut at. I think your problem with your cut and clippings isn't blades, I personally think it's the deck not being deep enough to carry the load or the amount of grass it trying to cut.

Just a suggestion but you may want to consider the pro"s that cut of some of the higher end properties in your neighborhood and see how much they would charge you to cut the lawn at it's proper height and then try to maintain that height with your Raptor.

st.aug 001.jpgThis is the St.Augustine I cut


#58

1

1striper1

IMO - the ONLY time you should cut a KBG lawn down to 1.5" is the final cut of the season before winter sets in.

Think of a bell curve when thinking of cutting heights for cool season grasses. Low (1.5 - 2") in spring adjusting slowly up to 3" in the heat of summer and slowly back down again to the same LOW area in the fall and pre-winter final cut.

Weeds and other bad grasses will be kept at bay by keeping the grass taller.

But what do I know....I don't have 2000 posts and live in Wisconsin. :rolleyes:


#59

Ric

Ric

IMO - the ONLY time you should cut a KBG lawn down to 1.5" is the final cut of the season before winter sets in.

Think of a bell curve when thinking of cutting heights for cool season grasses. Low (1.5 - 2") in spring adjusting slowly up to 3" in the heat of summer and slowly back down again to the same LOW area in the fall and pre-winter final cut.

Weeds and other bad grasses will be kept at bay by keeping the grass taller.

But what do I know....I don't have 2000 posts and live in Wisconsin. :rolleyes:


Gee seems like I just kinda said or posted the same thing in my last post, as far as cutting height goes you can cut KBG down to as low as 1.5 inches if you want during the cool times of the year where you are and increase your height during the summer months when it's hot to 3 inches for your location unless it gets extremely hot then maybe as much as 4 inches.


#60

L

LoCo86

The only thing you're going to cut here in the south at 1.5 inches and not have it become weed infested or harm the root development of the plant is zoysia and Bermuda grass.


#61

1

1striper1

Gee seems like I just kinda said or posted the same thing in my last post, as far as cutting height goes you can cut KBG down to as low as 1.5 inches if you want during the cool times of the year where you are and increase your height during the summer months when it's hot to 3 inches for your location unless it gets extremely hot then maybe as much as 4 inches.

Ric,

Have you ever actually been "up north" and cut (more than 5X) a lush KBG lawn? You say you're from Florida.....I'm just asking if you have. I myself have never cut a warm season grass, but have spent enough time "down south" to say that any grass I have walked on, laid down on, played golf on, or "anything" on has never had the texture of a lush, fine blade KBG lawn.

Maybe I haven't been in the right places....I dunno!

I read your post about cutting heights to mean that one could KEEP a KBG lawn at 1.5". My bad and I'm sorry. :ashamed:


#62

Ric

Ric

Ric,

Have you ever actually been "up north" and cut (more than 5X) a lush KBG lawn? You say you're from Florida.....I'm just asking if you have. I myself have never cut a warm season grass, but have spent enough time "down south" to say that any grass I have walked on, laid down on, played golf on, or "anything" on has never had the texture of a lush, fine blade KBG lawn.

Maybe I haven't been in the right places....I dunno!

I read your post about cutting heights to mean that one could KEEP a KBG lawn at 1.5". My bad and I'm sorry. :ashamed:


:laughing: Yes I been up north, lived up north and I've cut grass up north and I was so impressed with up north I couldn't wait to leave and I never looked or went back. I mean really you can cut KBG at any length you want to get the look you want.
KBG grass is best cut and probably at its healthiest if maintained at 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 inches to maintain a manicured appearance, thicken the base, and help keep the most moisture in the grass during times of drought conditions. If he cut the lawn at that height his deck would handle the load without clumping and leaving a bunch of clipping all over it especially if he never took off more than a third of the total height.


#63

1

1striper1

:laughing: Yes I been up north, lived up north and I've cut grass up north and I was so impressed with up north I couldn't wait to leave and I never looked or went back. I mean really you can cut KBG at any length you want to get the look you want.
KBG grass is best cut and probably at its healthiest if maintained at 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 inches to maintain a manicured appearance, thicken the base, and help keep the most moisture in the grass during times of drought conditions. If he cut the lawn at that height his deck would handle the load without clumping and leaving a bunch of clipping all over it especially if he never took off more than a third of the total height.

OK...all I wanted was an answer. Personally I would never want to live in FL. You can have the hurricanes, bugs the size of my hand, ants and all the other issues of living down there.

KBG is healthiest at 1.5 to 2.25? Wow.....I won't touch that one.

Run up that post count Ric! :laughing:


#64

Ric

Ric

OK...all I wanted was an answer. Personally I would never want to live in FL. You can have the hurricanes, bugs the size of my hand, ants and all the other issues of living down there.

KBG is healthiest at 1.5 to 2.25? Wow.....I won't touch that one.

Run up that post count Ric! :laughing:

Yeah you mow the stuff when it gets up to like 3 or maybe 3.5 inches in height and you bring it down to 1.5 or 2.25 inches in height depending on what you want. Yeah we have Hurricanes but I think bugs the size of your hand is a little exaggeration, never seen anything that big not even palmetto bugs are that big and like you don't have ants up north and what other issues are there that I'm not aware of :laughing: Yeah you run your heat three quarters of the year and we rub AC
Thing is we've haven't had a Hurricane of any consequence in I don't know how long and as often as they do happen I''l take the Tropical depression anytime to setting in a snow bank and shoveling snow for three quarters of the year.


[h=3]Detailed Mowing Schedule For Kentucky Bluegrass[/h]
March 20 to April 10Clean lawn of debris (i.e. rocks, sticks, etc.). Mow lawn as short as possible and remove clipping debris.
April 10 to June 15Mow lawn at 2.0 inches. Mowing frequency should be dictated by growth rate, never removing more than one-third the mowing height at any mowing.
June 15 to Aug. 30Raise mowing height to 2.5 inches.
Sept. 1 to Oct. 15Lower mowing height to 2.0 inches.
Oct. 15 to Nov. 15 (or last mowing)Lower mowing height to 1.5 - 1.75 inches.
Alternative and Preferred Mowing Schedule:
March 29 to last mowingMaintain 2.5 - 3.5 inch mowing height throughout season to promote rooting and stress tolerance.


#65

1

1striper1

Yeah you mow the stuff when it gets up to like 3 or maybe 3.5 inches in height and you bring it down to 1.5 or 2.25 inches in height depending on what you want. Yeah we have Hurricanes but I think bugs the size of your hand is a little exaggeration, never seen anything that big not even palmetto bugs are that big and like you don't have ants up north and what other issues are there that I'm not aware of :laughing: Yeah you run your heat three quarters of the year and we rub AC
Thing is we've haven't had a Hurricane of any consequence in I don't know how long and as often as they do happen I''l take the Tropical depression anytime to setting in a snow bank and shoveling snow for three quarters of the year.


[h=3]Detailed Mowing Schedule For Kentucky Bluegrass[/h]
March 20 to April 10Clean lawn of debris (i.e. rocks, sticks, etc.). Mow lawn as short as possible and remove clipping debris.
April 10 to June 15Mow lawn at 2.0 inches. Mowing frequency should be dictated by growth rate, never removing more than one-third the mowing height at any mowing.
June 15 to Aug. 30Raise mowing height to 2.5 inches.
Sept. 1 to Oct. 15Lower mowing height to 2.0 inches.
Oct. 15 to Nov. 15 (or last mowing)Lower mowing height to 1.5 - 1.75 inches.
Alternative and Preferred Mowing Schedule:
March 29 to last mowingMaintain 2.5 - 3.5 inch mowing height throughout season to promote rooting and stress tolerance.

Where did you get those specs from? Up here above the arctic circle (that's where most folks think I live) if you mow KBG at 1.5-2.0 in summer you're battling weeds and crab grass all season as well as the grass going dormant (yellow) due to stress.

But I digress.....you do it your way...I'll do it my way.

What was this thread about?


#66

Ric

Ric

Where did you get those specs from? Up here above the arctic circle (that's where most folks think I live) if you mow KBG at 1.5-2.0 in summer you're battling weeds and crab grass all season as well as the grass going dormant (yellow) due to stress.

But I digress.....you do it your way...I'll do it my way.

What was this thread about?

NW Wisconsin isn't exactly above the arctic circle:smile:I'm not asking you to agree or disagree. Two different sites tell me basically the same thingFirst Site says:
Mowing:
Older bluegrass varieties were mown at 2-3 inches for a good looking lawn. With the emergence of newer, improved varieties many bluegrass lawns can now be mown shorter than 2 inches. Mowing maintenance requires that you should never remove over a third of the growth at the time. Consistent, not constant mowing will help keep the density of the lawn thick and lush and helps to keep out insects and disease. Over mowing can lead to problems in dehydration of the sod base and invitation to insects with thinning of the grass material.

Heres what another site says:
Management. Begin mowing young grass when it grows above a 2-inch cutting height. Either rotary or reel type mowers may be used but blades must be sharp and reels properly adjusted to prevent pulling up young seedlings. The initial cutting should be at a 2-inch height. Subsequent mowings should be frequent enough so that no more than one-third of the leaf is removed at each mowing. At a 2-inch mowing height the grass needs mowing before it reaches 3 inches. Weekly mowing is usually satisfactory at the 2-inch mowing height. At lower mowing heights more frequent mowing is required. Some of the improved bluegrass varieties such as Fylking, Ram I and Touchdown tolerate mowing heights below 1 inch. However, weaker stands of Kentucky bluegrass result when mowing height is below 1 inch. Also, at mowing heights below 1 inch annual bluegrass and crabgrass invade a bluegrass turf. At mowing heights above 1° inches weeds are much less of a problem.
Compared to the warm season grasses, Kentucky bluegrass has a high water requirement. As much as 2 inches of water per week are needed to keep bluegrass green and growing during summer months in the transition zone. Ideally this amount of water would be applied in one day to wet the entire rootzone of the turf. However, the effective rootzone is often too shallow to hold that amount of water. No less than ° inch of water should be applied on any single day to promote deeper rooting of the bluegrass turf.


#67

1

1striper1

NW Wisconsin isn't exactly above the arctic circle:smile: Mowing: Older bluegrass varieties were mown at 2-3 inches for a good looking lawn. With the emergence of newer, improved varieties many bluegrass lawns can now be mown shorter than 2 inches. Mowing maintenance requires that you should never remove over a third of the growth at the time. Consistent, not constant mowing will help keep the density of the lawn thick and lush and helps to keep out insects and disease. Over mowing can lead to problems in dehydration of the sod base and invitation to insects with thinning of the grass material.

Well lotsa people think we are! LOL!!! Yes I'm aware of the older vs. newer varieties of KBG but while I'm not inthe biz, I have yet to see KBG do well when consistently cut under 2". Sure, there are situations when it can. I speak about the 90% factor.

And yes to the not cutting more than 1/3rd of the blade off. Sometimes this is just not possible and one has to deal with the result of cutting 5" tall grass down to 3". It's usually not pretty.


#68

M

mooch91

Jumping back in...

I will say that 3" is a definite inflection point for my lawn and mower. When I mow higher than 3" (which I had been doing, because I always thought longer is better), I was getting a lot of grass laying down and a lot of blades "missed". At 3", especially with the high-lift blades, the cut itself is extremely smooth and even (see the picture of the stripes I posted earlier). We've had a very dry spring here in PA, though, and I'm starting to see the effects in the lawn (dormancy, browning), so I don't think I'll drop the cutting height any time soon.

I don't intend to go much lower than 2.5-2.75", anyway, as I think there's enough uneven-ness in my lawn that I would end up scalping/chopping up some areas if I went shorter.

I can definitely understand the need to not go too low on mowing height, but I'm still trying to read and get an understanding about what benefits you get at different points in the height range. Seems like much of the advice is to mow as long as you can tolerate, as it will crowd out weeds, preserve moisture, etc. But I imagine there's a point where too long becomes bad for the turf quality as well? Most guidance is to not mow too low, but not much info on mowing too high.

Unless by mowing lower I can get the rate of top growth to slow, I don't see the mowing height having a dramatic impact on the issue I've been experiencing, which is the quantity of clippings when mowing once a week. If I'm growing at a rate of 2" per week, I would imagine I'd grow at that same rate whether I mow at 1" height or I mow at 3" height. The final height before I mow will be different, but I'm guessing I'll still be taking 2" off, so the volume of clippings to discharge will be the same.


#69

Ric

Ric

Jumping back in...

I will say that 3" is a definite inflection point for my lawn and mower. When I mow higher than 3" (which I had been doing, because I always thought longer is better), I was getting a lot of grass laying down and a lot of blades "missed". At 3", especially with the high-lift blades, the cut itself is extremely smooth and even (see the picture of the stripes I posted earlier). We've had a very dry spring here in PA, though, and I'm starting to see the effects in the lawn (dormancy, browning), so I don't think I'll drop the cutting height any time soon.

I don't intend to go much lower than 2.5-2.75", anyway, as I think there's enough uneven-ness in my lawn that I would end up scalping/chopping up some areas if I went shorter.

I can definitely understand the need to not go too low on mowing height, but I'm still trying to read and get an understanding about what benefits you get at different points in the height range. Seems like much of the advice is to mow as long as you can tolerate, as it will crowd out weeds, preserve moisture, etc. But I imagine there's a point where too long becomes bad for the turf quality as well? Most guidance is to not mow too low, but not much info on mowing too high.

Unless by mowing lower I can get the rate of top growth to slow, I don't see the mowing height having a dramatic impact on the issue I've been experiencing, which is the quantity of clippings when mowing once a week. If I'm growing at a rate of 2" per week, I would imagine I'd grow at that same rate whether I mow at 1" height or I mow at 3" height. The final height before I mow will be different, but I'm guessing I'll still be taking 2" off, so the volume of clippings to discharge will be the same.

In some cases mowing shorter does slow the rate of growth and letting it grow long doesn't necessarily choke out weed growth. A lot depends on the type of grass your cutting. The use of high lift blades is about useless IMO unless your going to bag the grass because all they do is leave large clippings laying on top of the lawn which basically robs the grass that is left of important nutrients and water. If your going to try and maintain a height of 3 inches then you really need to cut the lawn before it gets to 4 inches if you don't want clippings left on the lawn other wise you'll probably end up with a mess like you had in the pictures again.


#70

PVHIII

PVHIII

Some people are waaaaaaaaaaay to into their grass!!


#71

M

mooch91

Yes some of us are! :)

Cutting down at 3 inches now with virtually no chute (cut square to the edge of the deck). We are practically in a drought here in PA so cuts are very dry. Using the super high lifts the dealer gave me.

Still leaving visible clippings a row or 2 over in some spots of the yard. It is cutting VERY smooth, just not getting the clippings as far out as it could. I measure that the clippings go about 5 feet out at most.

I might still be expecting too much. We are getting out first rain in over a month and I won't be out there again until this weekend (1 week cut interval) so this next cut will be a real test.


#72

Ric

Ric

Yes some of us are! :)

Cutting down at 3 inches now with virtually no chute (cut square to the edge of the deck). We are practically in a drought here in PA so cuts are very dry. Using the super high lifts the dealer gave me.

Still leaving visible clippings a row or 2 over in some spots of the yard. It is cutting VERY smooth, just not getting the clippings as far out as it could. I measure that the clippings go about 5 feet out at most.

I might still be expecting too much. We are getting out first rain in over a month and I won't be out there again until this weekend (1 week cut interval) so this next cut will be a real test.


I seriously doubt that you are experiencing any dormancy, browning maybe but that's probably lack of water. I don't always agree with these cutting heights you read from all these organizations either but 99% of the time they are right. I had a client just put in a Fescue lawn a bit ago and I sure didn't like what they said to cut the lawn.

I started cutting it at 3 inches and I thought the lawn looked great but the people who installed the lawn had a bloom-in fit and at 3" I was having Trouble with the stuff browning out but I gave in but I told the guy when it died I wasn't going to replace the stuff but I wasn't that polite in my wording to him.

I looked online and everywhere I looked it told me the same as he did so I cut the stuff at 2.5 and a month later the lawn is the best looking lawn in the neighborhood. It did exactly what they said it would do. The articles I post are just a couple that I found online and there are lots of others I read also and all will tell you about the same thing.

As far as I'm concerned you can cut your lawn any height you like but your the one complaining about the cut and how it looks and what or how your mower is cutting.


#73

PVHIII

PVHIII

Spoke with my dealer yesterday and he told me he will not sell any 60" models because of scalping issues... JS


#74

T

tjones524

Here's mine 54" raptor sd with 2.0 hours on the clock, all stock.

10411897_877934132243655_4469948581102057511_n.jpg


#75

F

flightco

Spoke with my dealer yesterday and he told me he will not sell any 60" models because of scalping issues... JS

Most all other dealers are carrying them.


#76

PVHIII

PVHIII

Most all other dealers are carrying them.
That's a fairly broad statement... how do know this?....are you "most" all other dealers?...with all due respect that would almost be impossible to know without doin some kind of study.


#77

F

flightco

That's a fairly broad statement... how do know this?....are you "most" all other dealers?...with all due respect that would almost be impossible to know without doin some kind of study.

It was a broad statement and I have seen you make some broad statements also; it is pretty obvious no one can speak for all dealers but we speak from our experience.

In the past week I have visited 7 Hustler dealers in Indiana and Illinois (I travel for a living so it was pretty easy to stop at a lot of different dealers, I actually stopped at many more than 7 but only 7 hustler dealers). Since I was considering the best value I was talking about everything from the 42 inch Raptor to the 60 inch SD. 5 had 60" in stock, the other two had them on order. So, of the seven dealers I spoke with, none indicated anything negative about the 60" to the degree they would not re-order.

On another note, one thing that pushed my decision is all the new mowers they are getting in (Raptor) have the KT725 motor rather than the Kaw. No one could tell me for sure if the SD would come with the Kaw or Kohler so I bought an SD on the spot to make sure I got the motor I wanted.


#78

F

flightco

That's a fairly broad statement... how do know this?....are you "most" all other dealers?...with all due respect that would almost be impossible to know without doin some kind of study.

It was also 1 AM, I hadn't been drinking but was tired (why am I checking a lawn mower site before I go to bed after a 16 hour day). I will re-phrase -


All of the 7 dealers I spoke to in the past few weeks either have them in stock or on order and they are selling very well from what they told me.


#79

PVHIII

PVHIII

It was a broad statement and I have seen you make some broad statements also; it is pretty obvious no one can speak for all dealers but we speak from our experience.

In the past week I have visited 7 Hustler dealers in Indiana and Illinois (I travel for a living so it was pretty easy to stop at a lot of different dealers, I actually stopped at many more than 7 but only 7 hustler dealers). Since I was considering the best value I was talking about everything from the 42 inch Raptor to the 60 inch SD. 5 had 60" in stock, the other two had them on order. So, of the seven dealers I spoke with, none indicated anything negative about the 60" to the degree they would not re-order.

On another note, one thing that pushed my decision is all the new mowers they are getting in (Raptor) have the KT725 motor rather than the Kaw. No one could tell me for sure if the SD would come with the Kaw or Kohler so I bought an SD on the spot to make sure I got the motor I wanted.
Lol....as opinionated as I am... I'm sure I have..unless I had a large FLAT yard I would avoid the 60" model...my dealer attributed it to the terrain around here...could be I guess...smart choice you made there going with Kawasaki instead of the Kohler..one of the many reasons I bought my Hustler..I don't think them Kohler's are gonna boost sales that's for sure...What most folks don't think about (and no I am not most folks) lol...at least I didn't anyway because I actually wanted a larger deck but they (dealer) didn't have one in stock and I don't do very well at waiting so I ended up with a 48" is unless you go up in engine size your gonna lose power with that larger deck..glad I ended up with my 48" because I feel like any bigger and mine woulda been under powered...FX691V and a 48" deck is a good combo...at least on my FTSD it is anyway..I hope you enjoy your new mower as much as I've enjoyed mine :)


#80

F

flightco

Lol....as opinionated as I am... I'm sure I have..unless I had a large FLAT yard I would avoid the 60" model...my dealer attributed it to the terrain around here...could be I guess...smart choice you made there going with Kawasaki instead of the Kohler..one of the many reasons I bought my Hustler..I don't think them Kohler's are gonna boost sales that's for sure...What most folks don't think about (and no I am not most folks) lol...at least I didn't anyway because I actually wanted a larger deck but they (dealer) didn't have one in stock and I don't do very well at waiting so I ended up with a 48" is unless you go up in engine size your gonna lose power with that larger deck..glad I ended up with my 48" because I feel like any bigger and mine woulda been under powered...FX691V and a 48" deck is a good combo...at least on my FTSD it is anyway..I hope you enjoy your new mower as much as I've enjoyed mine :)

I really wanted the 48 but there were none in stock and he couldn't assure me if I waited for his order to come in it would have the Kawasaki engine. (I think it would, the Hustler web site is now showing the Raptor as either/or but not the SD). I could have purchased it at one of the other dealers but the dealer I worked with honored the Lowes 10% off coupon for the mower and accessories and he is installing them at no charge; therefore I have a 54". (I have to say, he seemed genuinely pleased with the order with the 10%, I was afraid if I found a dealer to honor it he would have an attitude).

I appreciated the humor about "most folks"


#81

M

mooch91

OP back.

Embarrassing cut tonight with my SD 54.

I was on vacation this week, so my lawn went 8 days since the last cut. We had two significant thunderstorms this past week which brought some torrential rains, too, so there was some growth.

I'd say I was between 5 and 6", cutting at 3". So in some cases I was taking 50%+ off the lawn. Not ideal, but I would have hoped not overwhelming for the mower either.

Attached is what I got. This is still with the super high lifts and a squared-off discharge chute.

C468F937-7103-4A07-B354-A4DF826196F8_zpspqh9bhpl.jpg


6EDBF45E-BD54-4444-951A-928F8138D0D3_zpsq3g4acex.jpg


7849BD96-7B38-489A-9EB3-CD141580934A_zpskxr3vymp.jpg


7FDBB5D1-8DCC-4CCA-9D70-B6D395CB9147_zpsnd7hsn9x.jpg


11643276-A2F0-42DF-883D-15B5E500C744_zpssaowdbkr.jpg


54F8DC5F-E4B2-458C-9ED7-4E318D3D9E5E_zps2hzfevfb.jpg


D54366B8-20F0-4EFD-9B81-8402525B7664_zpsj2js5krt.jpg


D384338E-69B3-4621-B56F-90CEF74B1589_zpsyjf4ex7i.jpg


#82

M

mooch91

So I've proven it can't cut without leaving clumps/visible clippings during the middle of a drought cutting at 4 day intervals. It surely can't do it with spring growth or a more reasonable (weekly) cutting rate.

I've tried every adjustment possible on this thing, every blade available... I think it's about time I call it what it is and move on to something better. I'm going to try Hustler corporate customer service on Monday for one last shot at seeing if there's something I'm missing, or something they can do, but I'm not optimistic. Had I known the cut quality was going to be this pathetic, I'd have spent a couple of thousand more on a pro model.


#83

PVHIII

PVHIII

So I've proven it can't cut without leaving clumps/visible clippings during the middle of a drought cutting at 4 day intervals. It surely can't do it with spring growth or a more reasonable (weekly) cutting rate.

I've tried every adjustment possible on this thing, every blade available... I think it's about time I call it what it is and move on to something better. I'm going to try Hustler corporate customer service on Monday for one last shot at seeing if there's something I'm missing, or something they can do, but I'm not optimistic. Had I known the cut quality was going to be this pathetic, I'd have spent a couple of thousand more on a pro model.
They should give you a full refund on the Raptor (my dealer did me)...I originally bought the Raptor when they first came out in 2013...I spent twice as much money on my Fast Trak SD but I have at minimum 3 times the mower...looks like a nice place you have there and plenty to mow as well..Hustler builds very good mowers but I am by no means a fan of the Raptor...my mom in law has one that every time she mows with it (no matter what the conditions are) I have to scrape out the deck... I HATE IT!!...BUT...I absolutely LOVE my FTSD.


#84

M

mooch91

They should give you a full refund on the Raptor (my dealer did me)...I originally bought the Raptor when they first came out in 2013...I spent twice as much money on my Fast Trak SD but I have at minimum 3 times the mower...looks like a nice place you have there and plenty to mow as well..Hustler builds very good mowers but I am by no means a fan of the Raptor...my mom in law has one that every time she mows with it (no matter what the conditions are) I have to scrape out the deck... I HATE IT!!...BUT...I absolutely LOVE my FTSD.

Trouble is, I'm a year and 52 hours in to owning this mower. I toyed with it last year thinking there had to be something I was missing. Not sure how much the dealer will do for me at this point.


#85

R

Rail5042

You want to know a cheap way to fix the clumping issue. Don't blow the cut grass into the uncut grass. I know but then you can't go forward and back words. You have do a circle pattern. I found the best approach to anything is know your equipment and know each job site. I first started to use mine I was scrapping two show shovel loads of grass out of deck. Now I have just a little build up in front. My lawn in thick around my house and thin in the field. I run thick to thin. Reduces clumping. My front yard is a little sandy. I finish there. That sand blast the deck off. My back yard where my drain field and sump pump drain are is jungle every time. I will cut it twice or blow the clippings away from uncut grass.


#86

D

DJ660

These HI-Lifts you have on now, Are they Hustler blades ? Whats the part #. Here is the Part # for some Big-Dog blades, They call them "Catcher" Blades. They have a very similar profile and lift "Fin" like the Scag super hi-lift blade. Hustler part# 602416


#87

M

mooch91

These HI-Lifts you have on now, Are they Hustler blades ? Whats the part #. Here is the Part # for some Big-Dog blades, They call them "Catcher" Blades. They have a very similar profile and lift "Fin" like the Scag super hi-lift blade. Hustler part# 602416

That's the one I've been running for the past two months.

Just switched yesterday to the Gator G5 to give that one a shot again.

Not too confident either will work out for me.


#88

D

DJ660

Is the deck Level side to side? Deck Pitch? Reason I ask as it looks too not be level in the pics. Is the engine running at 3600 RPM's, Alot of the units I've seen were NOT running at correct rpm. If all checks out good, I would try setting deck Pitch differently and see what happens. got nothing to lose right? I've had some older Fastrak's that I've had too set pitch 1\4 HIGH in front to get them to cut good.


#89

M

mooch91

Is the deck Level side to side? Deck Pitch? Reason I ask as it looks too not be level in the pics. Is the engine running at 3600 RPM's, Alot of the units I've seen were NOT running at correct rpm. If all checks out good, I would try setting deck Pitch differently and see what happens. got nothing to lose right? I've had some older Fastrak's that I've had too set pitch 1\4 HIGH in front to get them to cut good.

I've leveled the deck over a dozen times, tried all the different pitches (level, forward, backward). Right now it's level side-to-side, with the nose down about 1/4".

I would like to check the RPMs, but can't do that myself unless someone can recommend a cheap tach I can buy for my toolbox. May have to bring it to the dealer for that. This is probably the one thing I didn't check...

Thanks.


#90

M

mooch91

I'm back to running the Gator blades and I made an arbitrary increase in engine speed tonight. Not sure if it's 3600 rpm or above (lever is about 1/8" from the end of its travel in the cam), but there's not much more room to increase speed beyond where I have it.

Same result. TWO days worth of growth (two big downpours over the last two days) and I still have rows of visible clippings and some smaller clumps. I was trying to determine if it was throwing the clippings further (before, most clippings were landing between 3 and 5 feet). It might be a hair better in terms of distance thrown, but hard to tell.


#91

Ric

Ric

OP back.
Embarrassing cut tonight with my SD 54.
I was on vacation this week, so my lawn went 8 days since the last cut. We had two significant thunderstorms this past week which brought some torrential rains too, so there was some growth.

I'd say I was between 5 and 6", cutting at 3". So in some cases I was taking 50%+ off the lawn. Not ideal, but I would have hoped not overwhelming for the mower either.
Attached is what I got. This is still with the super high lifts and a squared-off discharge chute.


I'm back to running the Gator blades and I made an arbitrary increase in engine speed tonight. Not sure if it's 3600 rpm or above (lever is about 1/8" from the end of its travel in the cam), but there's not much more room to increase speed beyond where I have it.

Same result. TWO days worth of growth (two big downpours over the last two days) and I still have rows of visible clippings and some smaller clumps. I was trying to determine if it was throwing the clippings further (before, most clippings were landing between 3 and 5 feet). It might be a hair better in terms of distance thrown, but hard to tell.

Your trying to fix a problem with a mower when the mower isn't the issue. The mower is doing all it can do. You can't cut grass that's 5 and 6" high taking 50%+ off the lawn and not expect the outcome that your getting. Your deck wont handle it. You need to increase the frequency of cutting to no more than every three days until you get the lawn under control. I'd start at the top of my height settings and cut at a 3 day interval bringing it down a 1/4" at a time until you get the lawn cutting to a 3 1/4" height and at that point re-cut the lawn when it gets to a 4" height at your 3 1/4 setting and you''ll solve your clumping issue and have a better looking lawn.


#92

M

mooch91

Your trying to fix a problem with a mower when the mower isn't the issue. The mower is doing all it can do. You can't cut grass that's 5 and 6" high taking 50%+ off the lawn and not expect the outcome that your getting. Your deck wont handle it. You need to increase the frequency of cutting to no more than every three days until you get the lawn under control. I'd start at the top of my height settings and cut at a 3 day interval bringing it down a 1/4" at a time until you get the lawn cutting to a 3 1/4" height and at that point re-cut the lawn when it gets to a 4" height at your 3 1/4 setting and you''ll solve your clumping issue and have a better looking lawn.

I've only done that once this season, when I was on vacation last week, and I posted the pics. That was an extreme example.

I can get it looking good, but it means I need to cut it every 2-3 days to keep up with it. I've posted pics in this thread of what it looks like being cut at that rate. Even then, though, I get many visible clippings and some clumping. I wanted to test the Gator blades with higher engine speed last night so I worked a 20x20 area that was cut only 2 days before. I left a heavy layer of clippings that I could not make disappear, even after triple cutting.

What you're implying is that all of the good looking lawns around me are being cut every two days which is not the case. Most folks have pro services come in once per week and when I observe and see how their lawns ultimately look, most of them have no visible clippings. They're not being bagged, just side discharged, and they are being cut very quickly.

There's something different. Either I have a mutant lawn that grows so fast no mower will ever keep up, or my equipment is not up to keeping this type of lawn manicured in the way I want it.

I think the ultimate test is to borrow a commercial unit, wait 5-7 days, and see how it cuts the lawn.


#93

M

mooch91

Just stopped in to see my dealer...

He has a 54" Fastrak that I can reserve for demo, I think I'm going to do that next week.

Then I can see if mower or lawn are making the bigger difference. I know it's not top-of-the-line, but it's a step up from the Raptor SD and will be interesting to see how it performs.


#94

Ric

Ric

I've only done that once this season, when I was on vacation last week, and I posted the pics. That was an extreme example.
I can get it looking good, but it means I need to cut it every 2-3 days to keep up with it. I've posted pics in this thread of what it looks like being cut at that rate. Even then, though, I get many visible clippings and some clumping. I wanted to test the Gator blades with higher engine speed last night so I worked a 20x20 area that was cut only 2 days before. I left a heavy layer of clippings that I could not make disappear, even after triple cutting.
What you're implying is that all of the good looking lawns around me are being cut every two days which is not the case. Most folks have pro services come in once per week and when I observe and see how their lawns ultimately look, most of them have no visible clippings. They're not being bagged, just side discharged, and they are being cut very quickly.
There's something different. Either I have a mutant lawn that grows so fast no mower will ever keep up, or my equipment is not up to keeping this type of lawn manicured in the way I want it.
I think the ultimate test is to borrow a commercial unit, wait 5-7 days, and see how it cuts the lawn.

Just stopped in to see my dealer...
He has a 54" Fastrak that I can reserve for demo, I think I'm going to do that next week.
Then I can see if mower or lawn are making the bigger difference. I know it's not top-of-the-line, but it's a step up from the Raptor SD and will be interesting to see how it performs.

I seriously doubt you will see a lot of difference between the two mowers. About the only difference is the fastrak has a 5" deck vs the raptors 4.5'. Engine wise there both the Kawasaki 691, ones an FR and the other an FS which will Probably outlast the FR but seeing that there both running the 18.900 BTS / FPM the cutting and discharge shouldn't be that great of a difference.
When you talk about Lawn company's and seeing what they do, have you ever talked to one of the guys to get there opinion on what to do or maybe what there running and why? If the deck you are using with a G5 or 6 Gator blade is leaving clumps, you have more grass under the deck than that particular make of deck can handle, you may want to consider another brand of mower. What other type of mowers does your dealer handle?


#95

F

flightco

I find your issue with the Raptor SD interesting; what does your dealer have to say. I don't know if it is your grass, something wrong with your mower or what but I almost didn't buy the SD because of your experience. I did and I am glad I did. Today was my second mowing; 5 days between mows and lots of rain. The top of my grass (the part being cut) was dry but my shoes were wet from walking on the grass (the ground was saturated). Mowed the lawn and had no clumps whatsoever, took about an inch and a half off and the yard looks great which is why your situation is so puzzling. Your grass looks great, maybe your lawn is twice as thick as mine; I think we are both cutting KBG but something is different.


#96

F

flightco

Just stopped in to see my dealer...

He has a 54" Fastrak that I can reserve for demo, I think I'm going to do that next week.

Then I can see if mower or lawn are making the bigger difference. I know it's not top-of-the-line, but it's a step up from the Raptor SD and will be interesting to see how it performs.
mooch,

Wondering if you had a chance to try the Fastrack yet and if it made a difference; looking forward to hearing your results. I am interested to learn how high you have to climb the ladder to get a unit that can cut your grass without leaving clumps.


#97

M

mooch91

mooch,

Wondering if you had a chance to try the Fastrack yet and if it made a difference; looking forward to hearing your results. I am interested to learn how high you have to climb the ladder to get a unit that can cut your grass without leaving clumps.

Not yet, probably won't get to it for a week or two due to some personal items. Will keep you all posted.


#98

PVHIII

PVHIII

Not yet, probably won't get to it for a week or two due to some personal items. Will keep you all posted.
Your not gonna want to return that Fast Trak... It may be just one step up from that RSD but it's be 3 times the mower of that RSD...I can promise you that.....REALLY lookin forward to your review on the Fast Trak...Enjoy!


#99

M

mooch91

Your not gonna want to return that Fast Trak... It may be just one step up from that RSD but it's be 3 times the mower of that RSD...I can promise you that.....REALLY lookin forward to your review on the Fast Trak...Enjoy!

I need to read up on the Fastrak models - I believe there used to be a base model and an SD, not sure of the differences between them, and I know there have been changes for 2015. I'm also not sure which of them he was planning to let me demo. I do know that the one he pointed to when he and I were speaking had the FR691V on it, which is the same as my Raptor SD.


#100

A

akcooper9

Why arent you mowing at full throttle?


#101

PVHIII

PVHIII

I need to read up on the Fastrak models - I believe there used to be a base model and an SD, not sure of the differences between them, and I know there have been changes for 2015. I'm also not sure which of them he was planning to let me demo. I do know that the one he pointed to when he and I were speaking had the FR691V on it, which is the same as my Raptor SD.

The FR series engines are on the standard Fastrak....FS series is on the SD edition and yes they still build those and now (on the new models) in order to get the FX (commercial) series you have to step up to the SDX model which is a new model introduced in 2015...I have a 2013 FTSD...they came with FX series engines on them back then...some changes to the new mods are a deeper deck (which is good) bigger tires....the SD edition. now comes with ZT 3400 transmissions instead of the ZT3100 which I have on my FTSD both are commercial grade...mine also has a chain hung deck which is very important to the point where I feel it can't be over stated...all new FT models have bracket hung decks...in order to get a chain hung deck now you must step up to the X-one series... there are some other minor differences but I feel these are the important...the standard FT would probably suit your mowing needs just fine...however I have a history of going bigger than I need...if it were me I'd go for the SDX or at minimum the SD model.


#102

PVHIII

PVHIII

I seriously doubt you will see a lot of difference between the two mowers. About the only difference is the fastrak has a 5" deck vs the raptors 4.5'. Engine wise there both the Kawasaki 691, ones an FR and the other an FS which will Probably outlast the FR but seeing that there both running the 18.900 BTS / FPM the cutting and discharge shouldn't be that great of a difference.
When you talk about Lawn company's and seeing what they do, have you ever talked to one of the guys to get there opinion on what to do or maybe what there running and why? If the deck you are using with a G5 or 6 Gator blade is leaving clumps, you have more grass under the deck than that particular make of deck can handle, you may want to consider another brand of mower. What other type of mowers does your dealer handle?
Ric we don't disagree very often however I feel like he's gonna notice a huge difference in these two mowers....I can ALMOST say I know he will but only time will tell...this will be interesting... Can't wait for him to get that demo!


#103

M

mooch91

Why arent you mowing at full throttle?

Me? I am. Lever all the way forward.


#104

A

akcooper9

Me? I am. Lever all the way forward.

Ok, this is why I asked (see below) Either way it should be all the way forward.

I'm back to running the Gator blades and I made an arbitrary increase in engine speed tonight. Not sure if it's 3600 rpm or above (lever is about 1/8" from the end of its travel in the cam), but there's not much more room to increase speed beyond where I have it.


#105

F

flightco

Your not gonna want to return that Fast Trak... It may be just one step up from that RSD but it's be 3 times the mower of that RSD...I can promise you that.....REALLY lookin forward to your review on the Fast Trak...Enjoy!

PV,

I just went to the Hustler Website and did a comparison; These are almost exactly the same mower, here are some specs and I will highlight the exceptions

Engine - same
Drive System - SD 2800; FT 3100 and .5 mph faster I don't believe this will affect the cut but I could be wrong.
Deck, 1/2 inch deeper, honest question; can a half inch make that much difference?
Blade - same
Blade Tip Speed; FT 18910, SD 18900 (I would guess the 10fpm difference is within the margin of error)
Spindle - same
Deck construction FT 10ga, SD 11 ga -this tells me the FT is more HD but again do not know if the cut would be affected
Frame is made with a little stronger steel on FT
Tires FT 22 x 11 - 10 SD 20 x 12 - 10
weight FT 860 SD 650

There are other differences that should not affect the cut such as gas tank, etc.

I have made some assumptions here and could be wrong. I can see that the FT may last longer but do not see how it will cut any better unless it is the .5 in deck height. .5 doesn't sound like much but it is greater than 10% increase.

Interested in why you think it will cut better.


#106

F

flightco

The FR series engines are on the standard Fastrak....FS series is on the SD edition and yes they still build those and now (on the new models) in order to get the FX (commercial) series you have to step up to the SDX model which is a new model introduced in 2015...I have a 2013 FTSD...they came with FX series engines on them back then...some changes to the new mods are a deeper deck (which is good) bigger tires....the SD edition. now comes with ZT 3400 transmissions instead of the ZT3100 which I have on my FTSD both are commercial grade...mine also has a chain hung deck which is very important to the point where I feel it can't be over stated...all new FT models have bracket hung decks...in order to get a chain hung deck now you must step up to the X-one series... there are some other minor differences but I feel these are the important...the standard FT would probably suit your mowing needs just fine...however I have a history of going bigger than I need...if it were me I'd go for the SDX or at minimum the SD model.


I should have read this before I responded to your other post.

Question on the FR vs FS or FX; I thought I read someplace that the only difference is access to filters and things of that nature, is there something different in the build that would make them last longer?

Sounds like if he doesn't like the Raptor SD he really needs to go at least to the Fastrack SD


#107

Ric

Ric

I should have read this before I responded to your other post.

Question on the FR vs FS or FX; I thought I read someplace that the only difference is access to filters and things of that nature, is there something different in the build that would make them last longer?

Sounds like if he doesn't like the Raptor SD he really needs to go at least to the Fastrack SD

One of the differences between the engines is the air filtration system. The FR is only a single stage. The FS is a dual element and you need to service the foam element every 25 hrs and the paper element every 50hrs/ replace at 200hrs. The fx Has the Dual stage canister air filter, it has a Primary and a Safety inside the the primary and the service interval is 250hrs and replacement is every 500hrs. The Fx has a metal engine cover and a heavy duty shift-type starter. The Thing is if your a homeowner and using the mower for your personal use the Raptor sd with the FR and 2800 drives are all you would need, a commercial drive is really a waste of money for a homeowner.


#108

M

mooch91

Ok, this is why I asked (see below) Either way it should be all the way forward.

Thanks, the lever I referred to previously was the adjustment lever on the engine to allow for adjustment of high engine speed (held in place by the clamp on the throttle cable). I did recently adjust the speed higher thinking maybe it was running lower than 3600 rpm when the throttle was full open. I don't have a tach, so I made a somewhat arbitrary adjustment.


#109

PVHIII

PVHIII



PV,

I just went to the Hustler Website and did a comparison; These are almost exactly the same mower, here are some specs and I will highlight the exceptions

Engine - same
Drive System - SD 2800; FT 3100 and .5 mph faster I don't believe this will affect the cut but I could be wrong.
Deck, 1/2 inch deeper, honest question; can a half inch make that much difference?
Blade - same
Blade Tip Speed; FT 18910, SD 18900 (I would guess the 10fpm difference is within the margin of error)
Spindle - same
Deck construction FT 10ga, SD 11 ga -this tells me the FT is more HD but again do not know if the cut would be affected
Frame is made with a little stronger steel on FT
Tires FT 22 x 11 - 10 SD 20 x 12 - 10
weight FT 860 SD 650

There are other differences that should not affect the cut such as gas tank, etc.

I have made some assumptions here and could be wrong. I can see that the FT may last longer but do not see how it will cut any better unless it is the .5 in deck height. .5 doesn't sound like much but it is greater than 10% increase.

Interested in why you think it will cut better.
That half inch will make more of a difference than you think and that deck is a completely different design...that half sure makes it look bigger...they are not even close to being the same mower..lol
..... you shall see for yourself


#110

M

mooch91

That half inch will make more of a difference than you think and I don't think the deck is designed the same either...that half sure makes it look bigger...they are not even close to being the same mower..lol
..... you shall see for yourself

When I looked at the deck quickly last weekend, the FT definitely looked a bit deeper. The side discharge was big compared to the RSD with that curved, open-top discharge with the bar across the bottom, and underneath looked more "open".


#111

PVHIII

PVHIII

When I looked at the deck quickly last weekend, the FT definitely looked a bit deeper. The side discharge was big compared to the RSD with that curved, open-top discharge with the bar across the bottom, and underneath looked more "open".
There will be huge difference in cut quality...less build up under the deck... better discharge.... Will be kinda like goin from log wagon to Cadillac... and that's not an exaggeration... I don't know why Ric would think there's not much difference in these mowers...also forgot to mention that Deck will handle wet grass much better as well.


#112

PVHIII

PVHIII

One of the differences between the engines is the air filtration system. The FR is only a single stage. The FS is a dual element and you need to service the foam element every 25 hrs and the paper element every 50hrs/ replace at 200hrs. The fx Has the Dual stage canister air filter, it has a Primary and a Safety inside the the primary and the service interval is 250hrs and replacement is every 500hrs. The Fx has a metal engine cover and a heavy duty shift-type starter. The Thing is if your a homeowner and using the mower for your personal use the Raptor sd with the FR and 2800 drives are all you would need, a commercial drive is really a waste of money for a homeowner.
That does depend on how much the home owner is mowing and the terrain and something I feel is never mentioned is..... it also depends on how well the H.O. wants his lawn mower to perform.


#113

R

RaptorSDer

I can't help but think something is wrong with your specific mower. I've cut fairly tall damp grass with my SD with good results.


#114

PVHIII

PVHIII

I think the added mass and windage might increase engine load a bit, and fuel use, but I don't see RPM changing. compare it to towing a trailer in your car. you still have plenty of power to go faster than speed limit, but maintaining the limit your foot is a little deeper into the throttle.
Only problem with this theory is....that mower don't come with a gas pedal and on a ZT you should always be mowin full throttle..so I'd say it would effect BTS


#115

Ric

Ric

That half inch will make more of a difference than you think and I don't think the deck is designed the same either...that half sure makes it look bigger...they are not even close to being the same mower..lol
..... you shall see for yourself

When I looked at the deck quickly last weekend, the FT definitely looked a bit deeper. The side discharge was big compared to the RSD with that curved, open-top discharge with the bar across the bottom, and underneath looked more "open".

There will be huge difference in cut quality...less build up under the deck... better discharge.... Will be kinda like goin from log wagon to Cadillac... and that's not an exaggeration... I don't know why Ric would think there's not much difference in these mowers...also forgot to mention that Deck will handle wet grass much better as well.

I would guess that the half inch in depth could make some difference but with the BTS/FPM being the same or equal I wouldn't think there would be a lot of difference.I don't see the creation of vacuum and rate of discharge being all that different. PV you run the Hustler so you should know what's what with them, me I'm a Toro guy and I'll take my Turbo Force deck.:smile: If you say there's going to be huge difference in cut quality, I'll go with you.


#116

PVHIII

PVHIII

I would guess that the half inch in depth could make some difference but with the BTS/FPM being the same or equal I wouldn't think there would be a lot of difference.I don't see the creation of vacuum and rate of discharge being all that different. PV you run the Hustler so you should know what's what with them, me I'm a Toro guy and I'll take my Turbo Force deck.:smile: If you say there's going to be huge difference in cut quality, I'll go with you.

Never ran one of those Toro's but that deck does get good reviews.Do you have a Hustler dealer in your area... and if so have you ever ran Hustler... Just wondering why you chose the Toro over the rest of the competition... My dealer's son and I are good friends so I'm in and out of their shop all the time so I am FAIRLY knowledgeable about these mowers... they carry Hustler and Grasshopper exclusively...I can ALMOST promise you he will be back on here shortly braggin about his new Fast Trak lol


#117

PVHIII

PVHIII

I would guess that the half inch in depth could make some difference but with the BTS/FPM being the same or equal I wouldn't think there would be a lot of difference.I don't see the creation of vacuum and rate of discharge being all that different. PV you run the Hustler so you should know what's what with them, me I'm a Toro guy and I'll take my Turbo Force deck.:smile: If you say there's going to be huge difference in cut quality, I'll go with you.

This is Hustler and Grasshopper country and that's probably due to the fact that we have only one dealer in town and that's what he carries...however there are some LCP's runnin Toro's and with no dealer support around that Tells me they're good mowers.. I think there's A Toro dealer an hour away in Harrison.


#118

D

DK35vince

The Thing is if your a homeowner and using the mower for your personal use the Raptor sd with the FR and 2800 drives are all you would need, a commercial drive is really a waste of money for a homeowner.
That is your opinion, not mine.
I'm a homeowner that mows a 7acres lawn. I own a Hustler Super Z w/35 HP Kawasaki and the 72" deck.
I wanted the Super Z to cut my mowing time way down, and last me the next 15-20 years.
I owned A Hustler FasTrak 54" for 4 years. It was an excellent mower, but I wanted bigger, faster, more power..
I sold it and upsized to the Super Z and wouldn't want anything less.


#119

PVHIII

PVHIII

That is your opinion, not mine.
I'm a homeowner that mows a 7acres lawn. I own a Hustler Super Z w/35 HP Kawasaki and the 72" deck.
I wanted the Super Z to cut my mowing time way down, and last me the next 15-20 years.
I owned A Hustler FasTrak 54" for 4 years. It was an excellent mower, but I wanted bigger, faster, more power..
I sold it and upsized to the Super Z and wouldn't want anything less.

Exactly what I'm gonna do in 2 more years...do you have the VX4 deck on your Z....and how do you like it?


#120

D

DK35vince

Exactly what I'm gonna do in 2 more years...do you have the VX4 deck on your Z....and how do you like it?
Yes, I have the 72" VX4 deck.
I'm not a profession that does the fancy lawn striping. So I can't tell you how it works for that.
I just mow the lawn.
I'm happy with my VX4. I think it does a nice job and it will really discharge the grass at high mowing speeds.


#121

Ric

Ric

Never ran one of those Toro's but that deck does get good reviews.Do you have a Hustler dealer in your area... and if so have you ever ran Hustler... Just wondering why you chose the Toro over the rest of the competition... My dealer's son and I are good friends so I'm in and out of their shop all the time so I am FAIRLY knowledgeable about these mowers... they carry Hustler and Grasshopper exclusively...I can ALMOST promise you he will be back on here shortly braggin about his new Fast Trak lol

Yeah we have a Hustler dealer here :laughing: The same one that sells Toro and Scag and Cub Cadet. My dealer sells what he calls the big three but if I were them I'd dump CC and put in Exmark.

I purchased my Toro from them. I think the reason I started with the Toro was because they were the only one out of the three makes that had a Stander which was what I wanted and it turned out to be a great mower for the business and again with the purchase of the Turf-Master, nobody but them offered the 30" mower except Exmark so when it came time for a ZTR the Z Master just made since.

The Z-Master like the stander has a shorter frame, there both compact mowers which for the business is a plus and I already knew the Turbo force deck would handle the wet grass without problem and the 5year 1200 hr warranty didn't hurt things either, I don't think any manufacturer offers or can beat the warranty.


#122

Ric

Ric

quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by Ric
The Thing is if your a homeowner and using the mower for your personal use the Raptor sd with the FR and 2800 drives are all you would need, a commercial drive is really a waste of money for a homeowner.

That is your opinion, not mine.
I'm a homeowner that mows a 7acres lawn. I own a Hustler Super Z w/35 HP Kawasaki and the 72" deck.
I wanted the Super Z to cut my mowing time way down, and last me the next 15-20 years.
I owned A Hustler FasTrak 54" for 4 years. It was an excellent mower, but I wanted bigger, faster, more power..
I sold it and upsized to the Super Z and wouldn't want anything less.

Exactly what I'm gonna do in 2 more years...do you have the VX4 deck on your Z....and how do you like it?

The theory above just doesn't make any sense to me at all, bigger, faster, more power
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PV I'd stick to what you have.


#123

D

DK35vince

The theory above just doesn't make any sense to me at all, bigger, faster, more power
Wanting/expecting performance and longevity from your machine makes no sense ??

My neighbor has a Raptor SD. The difference between it and my Super Z as far as size, mowing speed, power, ride, and build is huge.
I certainly wouldn't want to mow my large yard with a Raptor every week.
The Super Z does my 7+ acre lawn with ease. Does it quickly/efficiently, and will do it for many, many years. Makes perfect sense.


#124

Ric

Ric

Wanting/expecting performance and longevity from your machine makes no sense ??

My neighbor has a Raptor SD. The difference between it and my Super Z as far as mowing speed, power, ride, and build is huge.
I certainly wouldn't want to mow my large yard with a Raptor every week.
The Super Z does it with ease. Does it fast, and will do it for many, many years. Makes perfect sense.

Wanting/expecting performance and longevity from your machine makes perfect sense and you can get the same thing from the Raptor or the Fastrak if properly maintained along with the Super Z but The Raptor or Fastrak are more suited to a homeowner as for there intended use by Hustler. The build quality, power and ride of the Super z is better than the other machines as it should be for it's intended use. The problem with the Super Z for a homeowner is the fact the mower is never used for it's intended use so the 35HP engine and drive speeds are wasted, the only thing I can see is that the cost involved of owning and running the Z is a whole lot more money than a typical Homeowner needs to spend.


#125

D

DK35vince

The problem with the Super Z for a homeowner is the fact the mower is never used for it's intended use so the 35HP engine and drive speeds are wasted,
We use all the power and speed my Super Z will give us every week when we mow. Nothing wasted here. We use it all.
One of my main complaints about my previous FastraK (23 HP Kawasaki, w/54" deck) was lack of power. Seemed we were always needing to slow down because were running out of power.
Upsizing to the Super Z 72" deck I didn't want to have an issue with barely enough power again. I went with the 35 HP Kawasaki.
Mowing at full speed with the 72" deck I'm sure glad I didn't go with any less power.


#126

Ric

Ric

We use all the power and speed my Super Z will give us every week when we mow. Nothing wasted here. We use it all.
One of my main complaints about my previous FastraK (23 HP Kawasaki, w/54" deck) was lack of power. Seemed we had to often slow down because were running out of power.
Upsizing to the Super Z 72" deck I didn't want to have an issue with barely enough power again. I went with the 35 HP Kawasaki.
Mowing at full speed with the 72" deck I'm sure glad I didn't go with any less power.


As far as mowing speeds go, in reality the Super Z doesn't cut as fast as the Raptor SD. Just because you can run a higher MPH doesn't mean you can cut any faster. The Raptor is rated to cut 18900 fpm, the Super Z is rated at or for 18040 fpm from Hustler. Anything beyond that and you sacrifice cut quality. The top end speeds/mph is intended for transport not mowing. Actually and in reality the Super Z was not designed to cut ones lawn. They were designed for the big Commercial boys that run main roads or sub-divisions for HOA where they would be out 3 or 4 miles from a their trailers and have to get back in a sufficient amount of time.


#127

D

DK35vince

As far as mowing speeds go, in reality the Super Z doesn't cut as fast as the Raptor SD. Just because you can run a higher MPH doesn't mean you can cut any faster. The Raptor is rated to cut 18900 fpm, the Super Z is rated at or for 18040 fpm from Hustler. Anything beyond that and you sacrifice cut quality. The top end speeds/mph is intended for transport not mowing. Actually and in reality the Super Z was not designed to cut ones lawn. They were designed for the big Commercial boys that run main roads or sub-divisions for HOA where they would be out 3 or 4 miles from a their trailers and have to get back in a sufficient amount of time.
After years of mowing our lawn we know where all the bumps are.
The rough areas we slow down, the smooth areas get mowed at full speed.


#128

M

mooch91

Another pretty miserable cut at a 7-day interval today.

I did about 1/4 of the lawn Friday night before some heavy rain started yesterday. I came back and redid and finished it off today.

The area I didn't cut on Friday was obviously the worst (I took off a couple of inches of growth), but even the area cut on Friday had heavy clippings and some clumps. I triple cut some areas and still have a nice heavy dusting of clippings.

My wife is actually starting to get upset because my son is tracking healthy quantities of clippings in to the house. :)

One interesting thing I observed and now I think I know why multiple cuts don't seem to make the clippings go away - the discharge coming out of the side seems to be concentrated to the front end of the discharge chute. I would say that better than 80% of the clippings come out in a stream about 1-2" wide at the front end of the chute. They're definitely not discharging from the whole width of the chute. I don't know if this is the way all side discharge mowers work or if it's something unique to mine that's contributing to my problem. I'll see if I can post a video I took of the discharge while mowing.


#129

M

mooch91

Here is the vid, hope it works:



#130

Ric

Ric

Here is the video, hope it works:


I know your going to think I'm crazy but Right off hand the video is telling me two things, One with the build up of grass on the top deck your mowing way too much grass at a time. Two by the looks of the ground and the rate it's moving your mowing too fast.

As I said earlier in the thread you need to increase the frequency of cutting to no more than every three days until you get the lawn under control. Every 7 days is not going to be acceptable. I'd start at the top of my height settings and cut at a 3 day interval bringing it down a setting every cut until you get the lawn cutting to a 3"and 3 1/4" height and at that point re-cut the lawn when it gets to a 4" height at your 3" setting and you''ll solve your clumping issue and have a better looking lawn.

The mower you have is doing all it can do and no matter what changes you make it's not going to help.


#131

PVHIII

PVHIII

Another pretty miserable cut at a 7-day interval today.

I did about 1/4 of the lawn Friday night before some heavy rain started yesterday. I came back and redid and finished it off today.

The area I didn't cut on Friday was obviously the worst (I took off a couple of inches of growth), but even the area cut on Friday had heavy clippings and some clumps. I triple cut some areas and still have a nice heavy dusting of clippings.

My wife is actually starting to get upset because my son is tracking healthy quantities of clippings in to the house. :)

One interesting thing I observed and now I think I know why multiple cuts don't seem to make the clippings go away - the discharge coming out of the side seems to be concentrated to the front end of the discharge chute. I would say that better than 80% of the clippings come out in a stream about 1-2" wide at the front end of the chute. They're definitely not discharging from the whole width of the chute. I don't know if this is the way all side discharge mowers work or if it's something unique to mine that's contributing to my problem. I'll see if I can post a video I took of the discharge while mowing.
I would go ahead with your Fast Trak demo...you will not have these problems with the Fast Trak....when you spend as much on a mower as you did that Raptor SD you shouldn't have to "baby" it to get the result you want...I think that's a very poor deck design on the Raptor and Raptor SD...you may be mowing a lil too fast and cutting more off at once than you should but sometimes I know that I want to now faster than I should and cut more off at once than I should so I want a mower that can handle it and I have one in the Fast Trak SD..I just can't wait for you to demo that Fast Trak!


#132

PVHIII

PVHIII

We use all the power and speed my Super Z will give us every week when we mow. Nothing wasted here. We use it all.
One of my main complaints about my previous FastraK (23 HP Kawasaki, w/54" deck) was lack of power. Seemed we were always needing to slow down because were running out of power.
Upsizing to the Super Z 72" deck I didn't want to have an issue with barely enough power again. I went with the 35 HP Kawasaki.
Mowing at full speed with the 72" deck I'm sure glad I didn't go with any less power.

That's the main reason I went with the 48" instead of the 54"...POWER...I feel like mine would be under powered if I had the 54"...I have plenty of horse's for the 48".


#133

PVHIII

PVHIII

I know your going to think I'm crazy but Right off hand the video is telling me two things, One with the build up of grass on the top deck your mowing way too much grass at a time. Two by the looks of the ground and the rate it's moving your mowing too fast.

As I said earlier in the thread you need to increase the frequency of cutting to no more than every three days until you get the lawn under control. Every 7 days is not going to be acceptable. I'd start at the top of my height settings and cut at a 3 day interval bringing it down a setting every cut until you get the lawn cutting to a 3"and 3 1/4" height and at that point re-cut the lawn when it gets to a 4" height at your 3" setting and you''ll solve your clumping issue and have a better looking lawn.

The mower you have is doing all it can do and no matter what changes you make it's not going to help.
I don't think.your crazy lol..your probably right about his mowing speed and amount of cut...however there's NO WAY all his problems with that mower are a result of operator error..for that much $$$ that mower should be able to handle a lil operator error...JMO


#134

PVHIII

PVHIII

Here is the vid, hope it works:


My Fast Trak doesn't discharge like that...IMO this is just another flaw with this deck... All your questions will be answered when you get that demo or maybe I should say..all your problems solved.


#135

M

mooch91

It's hard to take a video and control the mower at the same time, so forgive the fact that I wasn't controlling speed. I can assure you - I was crawling with the mower for a few passes today as well. It definitely improved but still wasn't resolving the issue.


#136

Ric

Ric

It's hard to take a video and control the mower at the same time, so forgive the fact that I wasn't controlling speed. I can assure you - I was crawling with the mower for a few passes today as well. It definitely improved but still wasn't resolving the issue.


Ok a couple of questions. You said you did this last cut at a seven day interval. How tall was the grass before you cut it? and what setting did you have the mower set at?


#137

M

mooch91

Ok a couple of questions. You said you did this last cut at a seven day interval. How tall was the grass before you cut it? and what setting did you have the mower set at?

It was at 5+ inches and I cut to 3.

I know mowing every 2-3 days will be best, but it's a tough frequency to keep up with. And I've sent some pics showing that I will still get heavy clippings and clumps in part of the yard when I do mow at this frequency.

You keep mentioning "get the lawn in to control" - it's "in control" every time I cut it, as I leave it at 3" each and every time I'm done. Frequent cuts have not slowed it down (the last couple of 7-day intervals were exception to the fast rate I've been cutting all summer). So unless there is some way to stunt its growth, this is what I've got.


#138

PVHIII

PVHIII

It was at 5+ inches and I cut to 3.

I know mowing every 2-3 days will be best, but it's a tough frequency to keep up with. And I've sent some pics showing that I will still get heavy clippings and clumps in part of the yard when I do mow at this frequency.

You keep mentioning "get the lawn in to control" - it's "in control" every time I cut it, as I leave it at 3" each and every time I'm done. Frequent cuts have not slowed it down (the last couple of 7-day intervals were exception to the fast rate I've been cutting all summer). So unless there is some way to stunt its growth, this is what I've got.

OK....I've I got a question lol....who wants to spend roughly $4,500 on a mower that when you get a little behind on your mowing schedule you have to deal with this?


#139

Ric

Ric

It was at 5+ inches and I cut to 3.

I know mowing every 2-3 days will be best, but it's a tough frequency to keep up with. And I've sent some pics showing that I will still get heavy clippings and clumps in part of the yard when I do mow at this frequency.

You keep mentioning "get the lawn in to control" - it's "in control" every time I cut it, as I leave it at 3" each and every time I'm done. Frequent cuts have not slowed it down (the last couple of 7-day intervals were exception to the fast rate I've been cutting all summer). So unless there is some way to stunt its growth, this is what I've got.

If you have 5+ inches of grass and your cutting at three??? 5+ means 6 or better inches in places I assume, That means with the weight of the mower your putting 4 inches or more of grass in a deck that's 4.5 inches in depth. If that's what is happening your leaving no room for the deck to create any vacuum and work and without air flow the grass can't be discharged so you end up with a clumping issue which effects your cut.


#140

Ric

Ric

OK....I've I got a question lol....who wants to spend roughly $4,500 on a mower that when you get a little behind on your mowing schedule you have to deal with this?


Nobody wants to spend roughly $4,500 on a mower that doesn't work but that fact is there sold to the unsuspecting public everyday. It's all about sales and money for these manufacturers, that's why they sell spec'd mowers to retailers.


#141

T

turboawd

am i going to regret getting a raptor sd 54? i will mainly being using it to cut tall grass. maybe 6" to 1' tall, empty lots.


#142

Ric

Ric

am i going to regret getting a raptor sd 54? i will mainly being using it to cut tall grass. maybe 6" to 1' tall, empty lots.

If you haven't read this whole thread you may want to before you buy, Take a good look at the photo's and you can make up your mind.


#143

F

flightco

am i going to regret getting a raptor sd 54? i will mainly being using it to cut tall grass. maybe 6" to 1' tall, empty lots.
From my experience I would say will you be happy with it, talk to mooch and PV and they will tell you will hate it. Why don't you demo one for a couple days and see for yourself.


#144

D

DK35vince

That's the main reason I went with the 48" instead of the 54"...POWER...I feel like mine would be under powered if I had the 54"...I have plenty of horse's for the 48".
And that is why I went with the 35 HP when I upsized to the 72" Super Z.
We mow our lawn once per week, and there was a lot of times where we couldn't mow at top speed ( 8 MPH) with our 23 HP 54" FasTrak . Had to always slow down because I was running out of power.
I mow much of our lawn now at full speed (13-14 MPH) with the 72" Super Z and not run out of power. It impresses me with its speed and power ever time I use it. I'm sure glad I went with the 35HP and not the 28. I have no doubt that I would have been running into the same issue of not enough power mowing at those speeds if I had went with the 28.


#145

Ric

Ric

am i going to regret getting a raptor sd 54? i will mainly being using it to cut tall grass. maybe 6" to 1' tall, empty lots.

If your going to attempt 6" to a 1' foot tall grass my choice would be a good 48" walk behind, it would do the job well. It just depends on what type of cut your looking for, I wouldn't attempt foot tall grass with a ztr.


#146

T

turboawd

If you haven't read this whole thread you may want to before you buy, Take a good look at the photo's and you can make up your mind.

well, the lawns i'll be cutting wont matter how they look. lol
these raptors cant cut any worse than my old home depot cub cadet, could it?
If your going to attempt 6" to a 1' foot tall grass my choice would be a good 48" walk behind, it would do the job well. It just depends on what type of cut your looking for, I wouldn't attempt foot tall grass with a ztr.

walk? i suppose i could use the excercise, but it aint gonna happen. :rolleyes:


#147

Ric

Ric

well, the lawns i'll be cutting wont matter how they look. lol
these raptors cant cut any worse than my old home depot cub cadet, could it?


walk? i suppose i could use the exercise, but it ain't gonna happen. :rolleyes:

If they don't matter how they look I'd say stick to the old home depot cub cadet, why waste the money on a ZTR. Seriously a ZTR wasn't designed for a bush hog, the tractor would be just as fast if that's your trying to accomplish.


#148

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

[...]
...mine also has a chain hung deck which is very important to the point where I feel it can't be over stated...all new FT models have bracket hung decks...in order to get a chain hung deck now you must step up to the X-one series...
[...]

Would you kindly expand on chain over brackets?
Why is this feature so important?
The chain hung deck still has forward mounted height
adjust "brackets", yes/no?

Cheers


#149

PVHIII

PVHIII

Would you kindly expand on chain over brackets?
Why is this feature so important?
The chain hung deck still has forward mounted height
adjust "brackets", yes/no?

Cheers

The chains allow for the deck to basically float which gives you a much better cut and THEY DON'T BEND.


#150

PVHIII

PVHIII

well, the lawns i'll be cutting wont matter how they look. lol
these raptors cant cut any worse than my old home depot cub cadet, could it?


walk? i suppose i could use the excercise, but it aint gonna happen. :rolleyes:

The Raptor that I bought and happily returned for a refund...did not cut as well as the Troy-Built lawn tractor I traded in for it...and the lil stump I hit that bent the deck mounts...my Troy-Built would have been able to absorb the impact because there was some play in the deck mounts it would give a little instead of bending the deck mounts like the Raptor did.


#151

F

flightco

The Raptor that I bought and happily returned for a refund...did not cut as well as the Troy-Built lawn tractor I traded in for it...and the lil stump I hit that bent the deck mounts...my Troy-Built would have been able to absorb the impact because there was some play in the deck mounts it would give a little instead of bending the deck mounts like the Raptor did.

Based on this thread, I keep second guessing my Raptor SD purchase, that is until I cut my grass again. I have not yet been able to cut it when it is dry, it has rained so much and growing so fast, if there is a few hour break in the rain I cut it. Just finished cutting about an inch that has grown in 4 days. Grass was wet, ground was soft. The only time I noticed any clumping was when I put it in reverse (no idea why this would happen since the blades still turn the same way). I quickly drove over the clump and it was gone (I do have the mulch kit). I am the only one in the neighborhood who cuts their own lawn and it looks every bit as good as any professionally cut lawn. I am also the only one who seems to fertilize so actually it looks better. Could not be happier with the SD.

I do have a problem and I think it is related to ZTM in general and it has to do with turning at the end of a run. I am putting a nice divot at the end of each line I cut (OK, the professional cut lawns do not have this, so in that case they look better) I know it is technique, but not sure what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?


#152

T

turboawd

If they don't matter how they look I'd say stick to the old home depot cub cadet, why waste the money on a ZTR. Seriously a ZTR wasn't designed for a bush hog, the tractor would be just as fast if that's your trying to accomplish.

the cub cadet blew a motor after after only 150 hours of cutting. not buying another.

The Raptor that I bought and happily returned for a refund...did not cut as well as the Troy-Built lawn tractor I traded in for it...and the lil stump I hit that bent the deck mounts...my Troy-Built would have been able to absorb the impact because there was some play in the deck mounts it would give a little instead of bending the deck mounts like the Raptor did.

did you have the raptor sd? what exactly bent? those long pins that the deck hangs on?


#153

Ric

Ric

Based on this thread, I keep second guessing my Raptor SD purchase, that is until I cut my grass again. I have not yet been able to cut it when it is dry, it has rained so much and growing so fast, if there is a few hour break in the rain I cut it. Just finished cutting about an inch that has grown in 4 days. Grass was wet, ground was soft. The only time I noticed any clumping was when I put it in reverse (no idea why this would happen since the blades still turn the same way). I quickly drove over the clump and it was gone (I do have the mulch kit). I am the only one in the neighborhood who cuts their own lawn and it looks every bit as good as any professionally cut lawn. I am also the only one who seems to fertilize so actually it looks better. Could not be happier with the SD.

I do have a problem and I think it is related to ZTM in general and it has to do with turning at the end of a run. I am putting a nice divot at the end of each line I cut (OK, the professional cut lawns do not have this, so in that case they look better) I know it is technique, but not sure what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?


Try This for turning at the end of a run. It's the Y Turn

Y-Turn_1.jpg


#154

F

flightco

Try This for turning at the end of a run. It's the Y Turn

Y-Turn_1.jpg

Thank you Ric, I will try that.

I think you are a lawn pro so I will pose a couple questions to you

1. Any idea why I get clumping in reverse when virtually nothing in forward (grass is very wet)

2. This entire conversation got me very interested in "clumping" and why the pros don't get any. I had the opportunity to watch two lawns being pro cut today. I took my dogs for a walk past the houses and both had clumps of grass, I was surprised because I have not seen this before. they both had different ways to take care of the problem, one used a back mounted blower and blew the clumps into fine grass and they dissipated. The other walked around the yard with what looked to be a very stiff bristled push broom and raked over the clumps and they disappeared. Is this how pros normally deal with clumps?


#155

K

Kremeneon

I do have a problem and I think it is related to ZTM in general and it has to do with turning at the end of a run. I am putting a nice divot at the end of each line I cut (OK, the professional cut lawns do not have this, so in that case they look better) I know it is technique, but not sure what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?

The divots are because you stop one wheel completely, or near completely and spin the mower around using the other. It is the exact same motion as putting the ball of your foot down and spinning around on it. To not divot you need to keep both drive wheels turning, the Y turn is great if you have limited runoff room. Another good method if there is a little more space (I need 10-12') is to make a tractor type turn, but tighter, steer away from where you are turning, then turn nice and tight, but still keeping forward motion with both wheels.


#156

Ric

Ric

Thank you Ric, I will try that.

I think you are a lawn pro so I will pose a couple questions to you

1. Any idea why I get clumping in reverse when virtually nothing in forward (grass is very wet)

2. This entire conversation got me very interested in "clumping" and why the pros don't get any. I had the opportunity to watch two lawns being pro cut today. I took my dogs for a walk past the houses and both had clumps of grass, I was surprised because I have not seen this before. they both had different ways to take care of the problem, one used a back mounted blower and blew the clumps into fine grass and they dissipated. The other walked around the yard with what looked to be a very stiff bristled push broom and raked over the clumps and they disappeared. Is this how pros normally deal with clumps?

Yeah your ZTR is capable of making a zero turn but anytime you use opposite wheel direction between the rear wheels your gonna create Turf Damage. If you want to eliminate Turf Damage then use the Y turn method. At the end of your run just turn toward the next mowing path and stop your mower momentarily to reverse your direction to line up your next mowing path then move forward, there's no wheel spin created unless you think your racing at the Daytona 500 and you really don't have to worry about one wheel turning faster than the other.

When your mowing in reverse your basically going against the rotation of the blades and the design of the air flow of the deck. Your blades and deck are designed to cut and discharge grass in one direction. Mowing in reverse will just create clumps and a lot of times the grass will just run out under the front of the deck when you mow in reverse. It's kinda like trying using a trimmer backwards.

There are a lot of options to reduce or get rid clippings. The blower thing is good as long as you don't have to big a mess as well as the broom, the power broom is also a good option. Personally I like to use the G6 blades because they reduce the size of the clippings down to less than half inch and disperse the clippings over a wider area and if need you can double cut changing the direction of your first cut.


#157

PVHIII

PVHIII

Based on this thread, I keep second guessing my Raptor SD purchase, that is until I cut my grass again. I have not yet been able to cut it when it is dry, it has rained so much and growing so fast, if there is a few hour break in the rain I cut it. Just finished cutting about an inch that has grown in 4 days. Grass was wet, ground was soft. The only time I noticed any clumping was when I put it in reverse (no idea why this would happen since the blades still turn the same way). I quickly drove over the clump and it was gone (I do have the mulch kit). I am the only one in the neighborhood who cuts their own lawn and it looks every bit as good as any professionally cut lawn. I am also the only one who seems to fertilize so actually it looks better. Could not be happier with the SD.

I do have a problem and I think it is related to ZTM in general and it has to do with turning at the end of a run. I am putting a nice divot at the end of each line I cut (OK, the professional cut lawns do not have this, so in that case they look better) I know it is technique, but not sure what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?

Glad you are happy with your mower... nothing feels any worse than spending a few grand and not being happy...you need to make what's called a 3 point turn... I think there are videos on you tube to help you with that...enjoy that new mower:)


#158

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

The chains allow for the deck to basically float which gives you a much better cut and THEY DON'T BEND.

...mmmm, okay.
I'll change out mine to find out about float although I got no
gripe with manicure. But our grasses (.au) and methods of
housekeeping are way different to what I read and see here
reported in posts.

On manicure, or rather clippings gathering, I am going to get up
a thread on Walkers. I have found an Australian distributor
Home Page
but would seek some feedback from the "home country".
I would appreciate your looking at that thread and maybe
offer some input, thanks.


#159

PVHIII

PVHIII

...mmmm, okay.
I'll change out mine to find out about float although I got no
gripe with manicure. But our grasses (.au) and methods of
housekeeping are way different to what I read and see here
reported in posts.

On manicure, or rather clippings gathering, I am going to get up
a thread on Walkers. I have found an Australian distributor
Home Page
but would seek some feedback from the "home country".
I would appreciate your looking at that thread and maybe
offer some input, thanks.

I know Walker builds good mowers...some consider them to be the cream of the crop so to speak and they have a "cream of the crop" price tag...they're known for their superb quality of cut..Also as far as the deck go's...if it ain't broke don't fix it..really don't think it's possible to just change them out anyway.


#160

PVHIII

PVHIII

Try This for turning at the end of a run. It's the Y Turn

Y-Turn_1.jpg

A.K.A....Three Point Turn


#161

T

turboawd

so i got a 54" raptor sd. cut some tall grass today 12", and had quite a bit of wet grass stuck under the deck.
i'm thinking of swapping the stock blades for something with more lift.

the grass seems to clump in the upper corners of the deck. i wonder if something can be placed there to fill the corner or make it a 45 degree inside corner.

here is a quick sketch. see red lines.

kv8hhZL.jpg

Attachments







#162

F

flightco

so i got a 54" raptor sd. cut some tall grass today 12", and had quite a bit of wet grass stuck under the deck.
i'm thinking of swapping the stock blades for something with more lift.

the grass seems to clump in the upper corners of the deck. i wonder if something can be placed there to fill the corner or make it a 45 degree inside corner.

here is a quick sketch. see red lines.

kv8hhZL.jpg

I really don't get it, you just said you cut 12 inches of wet grass, which means you cut 6 to 7 inches of wet grass and you wonder why it was stuck under the deck; what do you think wet grass is going to do? You don't need more lift, you need to cut your grass more often.


#163

T

turboawd

I really don't get it, you just said you cut 12 inches of wet grass, which means you cut 6 to 7 inches of wet grass and you wonder why it was stuck under the deck; what do you think wet grass is going to do? You don't need more lift, you need to cut your grass more often.

these are empty lots. so they dont get cut frequent. the grass was dry. didnt rain. grass was just wet from the moisture in the grass.


#164

PVHIII

PVHIII

these are empty lots. so they dont get cut frequent. the grass was dry. didnt rain. grass was just wet from the moisture in the grass.

You have the wrong mower for the job.


#165

PVHIII

PVHIII

the cub cadet blew a motor after after only 150 hours of cutting. not buying another.



did you have the raptor sd? what exactly bent? those long pins that the deck hangs on?

No...standard Raptor..hanging brackets bent.


#166

T

turboawd

You have the wrong mower for the job.

should i have gotten some goats instead?


#167

PVHIII

PVHIII

should i have gotten some goats instead?

That's basically what you have now...it eats till it's belly gets full...;-)


#168

PVHIII

PVHIII

Two elements determine the discharge and even dispersing of clippings for a clean cut but only one is thought to be the problem by owners of mowers and that one element is the blades. Change to this blade or that blade is usually the suggestion with disappointing results.

The second element is deck design and the engineering relationship of the blade to the deck. There are just some mowers that will never do the job you want to see no matter what blade is installed.

I'm sure this isn't what anyone that spends thousands for their pretty mower wants to read or hear but it is fact.

You Sir...are right on the money with this post..very well said and very true.


#169

PVHIII

PVHIII

All,

I love my Raptor SD 54, but I've been a little disappointed in the cut quality. I stepped up from a 36" Snapper Pro walk-behind that would vacuum and cut the lawn and make it look like a carpet when done.

The Raptor is doing a good job, just not excellent. It doesn't seem to get that vacuum effect like the Snapper did. For example, I used to run over twigs and sticks on the Snapper, and it would pick them up, chop them a bit, and spit them out. I've noticed that the Hustler rarely, if ever, lifts a twig or stick from the lawn. Same with stones - the edge of my property has a row of stones that I used to have to be careful with when using the Snapper (as it would lift them and discharge them). I can run over the stone edge with the Hustler with no worries of it lifting them up. With the Raptor, it generally seems as if the grass will lay down a bit while being cut instead of being lifted.

Seems as if I could get some more vacuum under the deck that I'd be able to get a better cut with the Raptor SD. At least that's my thought of what could improve the situation. I don't see anything else wrong with the mower (deck is level, blades are sharp), except for a little bit of clutch rattle when engaging the blades (but I don't suspect this would cause the cut issue).

Any recommendations on specific blades that can accomplish this? I know there are 5 blades listed in the Hustler parts manual (including what looks like Gator blades and high lift blades), but it's very hard to get a clear idea of what blade will work best to accomplish what I'm looking for. Some say the gators are the way to go, others say go high lift, but not a lot of reasons as to why to choose one over the other. I'd prefer some real-world experience as to which would be best to improve the cut quality. I don't want to keep buying blades (at 3 of them) to experiment.

Thanks!!!

Still waitin on that Fast Trak demo...keep us posted.. Thanks!


#170

M

mooch91

Still waitin on that Fast Trak demo...keep us posted.. Thanks!

Still waiting too, the holiday weekend did not allow me to reserve with the dealer this weekend.

I'll share an update on the cut I made yesterday. Six days since my last cut due to a short vacation again this time. It was long, for sure, but by no means a pasture at this point.

I measure that I was cutting at about 5 1/2 inches of length:

13EE8402-F1F7-4FB5-AEE9-273A20DC3B21_zpsajpqbkxh.jpg



Or to put it another way, taking off about 2 - 2 1/2 inches:

C59DF2DA-91A8-4137-BE33-74DC252E3353_zpscneujzkw.jpg



I cleaned the deck beforehand and put the high-lift blades back on. About 1/3 of a 5-gallon bucket worth of scrap came off:

BC8AE6A7-3A2A-4608-92F5-2B9493CE4C68_zpsp2kjvstr.jpg



Some pics during and after pass number one:

5A185858-6137-46E7-BD0B-D94A6BE3870C_zpsyacuqait.jpg


9890E216-902A-4207-B85D-F0D0873FEAFF_zpsuwlfbor2.jpg


30E1B93A-8E7E-4D8B-B290-9EFBA47D6213_zpsw0pyrcdj.jpg


71B1161A-FF3A-430D-8CBE-1DBCC40B6CA2_zpsfbtyfxjd.jpg


6D792E51-86F9-456B-8D53-656E3F184472_zpssnrkvidp.jpg


F915D490-01C0-4082-BE96-D236B7989A1E_zpspavx9fb4.jpg



I then raised the deck by 1/2 inch and did a second (and in some cases a third) pass across the whole lawn to try to disperse the clippings, in progress shot:

DE4185F9-93BD-441A-8697-2B7D53540268_zpskaalyqv1.jpg



Ended up like this:

DB5FF6B8-9EC0-4307-BA82-80CA769DF04E_zpsyn3bwdwl.jpg


5315453A-DA62-4C39-AE1E-EA5C42C13A93_zpsx399ujsw.jpg



Couldn't get them to completely disappear, I was just blowing them back and forth after a while, but the stripes looked nice:

AFFB8548-C9D6-4E16-8210-4991D1348EC4_zpsx62luxvr.jpg



Healthy amount of deck blowout happening with the high-lift blades and the deck raised by 1/2 inch:

2B0AC075-DBBE-41D1-84E1-3A32BC6EBDE2_zpsmxvahmsl.jpg


#171

PVHIII

PVHIII

Still waiting too, the holiday weekend did not allow me to reserve with the dealer this weekend.

I'll share an update on the cut I made yesterday. Six days since my last cut due to a short vacation again this time. It was long, for sure, but by no means a pasture at this point.

I measure that I was cutting at about 5 1/2 inches of length:

13EE8402-F1F7-4FB5-AEE9-273A20DC3B21_zpsajpqbkxh.jpg



Or to put it another way, taking off about 2 - 2 1/2 inches:

C59DF2DA-91A8-4137-BE33-74DC252E3353_zpscneujzkw.jpg



I cleaned the deck beforehand and put the high-lift blades back on. About 1/3 of a 5-gallon bucket worth of scrap came off:

BC8AE6A7-3A2A-4608-92F5-2B9493CE4C68_zpsp2kjvstr.jpg



Some pics during and after pass number one:

5A185858-6137-46E7-BD0B-D94A6BE3870C_zpsyacuqait.jpg


9890E216-902A-4207-B85D-F0D0873FEAFF_zpsuwlfbor2.jpg


30E1B93A-8E7E-4D8B-B290-9EFBA47D6213_zpsw0pyrcdj.jpg


71B1161A-FF3A-430D-8CBE-1DBCC40B6CA2_zpsfbtyfxjd.jpg


6D792E51-86F9-456B-8D53-656E3F184472_zpssnrkvidp.jpg


F915D490-01C0-4082-BE96-D236B7989A1E_zpspavx9fb4.jpg



I then raised the deck by 1/2 inch and did a second (and in some cases a third) pass across the whole lawn to try to disperse the clippings, in progress shot:

DE4185F9-93BD-441A-8697-2B7D53540268_zpskaalyqv1.jpg



Ended up like this:

DB5FF6B8-9EC0-4307-BA82-80CA769DF04E_zpsyn3bwdwl.jpg


5315453A-DA62-4C39-AE1E-EA5C42C13A93_zpsx399ujsw.jpg



Couldn't get them to completely disappear, I was just blowing them back and forth after a while, but the stripes looked nice:

AFFB8548-C9D6-4E16-8210-4991D1348EC4_zpsx62luxvr.jpg



Healthy amount of deck blowout happening with the high-lift blades and the deck raised by 1/2 inch:

2B0AC075-DBBE-41D1-84E1-3A32BC6EBDE2_zpsmxvahmsl.jpg

Where'd you get your stripping kit?...Very nice yard BTW.


#172

M

mooch91

Where'd you get your stripping kit?...Very nice yard BTW.

Thanks. Home-made, per some instructions and ideas on lawnsite.com.


#173

M

mooch91

Just curious... does everyone else have this seemingly "empty" bolt hole on the top of their Raptor SD deck as well? Every time I see it has filled up with grass, I wonder what it's for, or if something "fell off" my deck.

B4652B95-00C5-4B2E-98E5-CA6E38BF869F_zps5h2cghyo.jpg


#174

PVHIII

PVHIII

Thanks. Home-made, per some instructions and ideas on lawnsite.com.

Looks like you did a fine job on it.


#175

PVHIII

PVHIII

Still waiting too, the holiday weekend did not allow me to reserve with the dealer this weekend.

I'll share an update on the cut I made yesterday. Six days since my last cut due to a short vacation again this time. It was long, for sure, but by no means a pasture at this point.

I measure that I was cutting at about 5 1/2 inches of length:

13EE8402-F1F7-4FB5-AEE9-273A20DC3B21_zpsajpqbkxh.jpg



Or to put it another way, taking off about 2 - 2 1/2 inches:

C59DF2DA-91A8-4137-BE33-74DC252E3353_zpscneujzkw.jpg



I cleaned the deck beforehand and put the high-lift blades back on. About 1/3 of a 5-gallon bucket worth of scrap came off:

BC8AE6A7-3A2A-4608-92F5-2B9493CE4C68_zpsp2kjvstr.jpg



Some pics during and after pass number one:

5A185858-6137-46E7-BD0B-D94A6BE3870C_zpsyacuqait.jpg


9890E216-902A-4207-B85D-F0D0873FEAFF_zpsuwlfbor2.jpg


30E1B93A-8E7E-4D8B-B290-9EFBA47D6213_zpsw0pyrcdj.jpg


71B1161A-FF3A-430D-8CBE-1DBCC40B6CA2_zpsfbtyfxjd.jpg


6D792E51-86F9-456B-8D53-656E3F184472_zpssnrkvidp.jpg


F915D490-01C0-4082-BE96-D236B7989A1E_zpspavx9fb4.jpg



I then raised the deck by 1/2 inch and did a second (and in some cases a third) pass across the whole lawn to try to disperse the clippings, in progress shot:

DE4185F9-93BD-441A-8697-2B7D53540268_zpskaalyqv1.jpg



Ended up like this:

DB5FF6B8-9EC0-4307-BA82-80CA769DF04E_zpsyn3bwdwl.jpg


5315453A-DA62-4C39-AE1E-EA5C42C13A93_zpsx399ujsw.jpg



Couldn't get them to completely disappear, I was just blowing them back and forth after a while, but the stripes looked nice:

AFFB8548-C9D6-4E16-8210-4991D1348EC4_zpsx62luxvr.jpg



Healthy amount of deck blowout happening with the high-lift blades and the deck raised by 1/2 inch:

2B0AC075-DBBE-41D1-84E1-3A32BC6EBDE2_zpsmxvahmsl.jpg
Looks like some pretty country there in the background...didn't know it was that pretty in New Jersey.


#176

M

mooch91

Looks like some pretty country there in the background...didn't know it was that pretty in New Jersey.

It's actually Pennsylvania. Moved last year but never updated my profile. But in defense of NJ, there's some nice land there too!


#177

PVHIII

PVHIII

It's actually Pennsylvania. Moved last year but never updated my profile. But in defense of NJ, there's some nice land there too!

Looks very similar to the countryside around here.


#178

R

RaptorSDer

Just curious... does everyone else have this seemingly "empty" bolt hole on the top of their Raptor SD deck as well? Every time I see it has filled up with grass, I wonder what it's for, or if something "fell off" my deck.

Mine has the same thing.


#179

K

kraky

Beautiful lawn....about what is your ground speed?
I'm on the fence about a raptor SD or the new ariens ikon. Does the deck on the SD seem like it has any suction...I mean...if you passed a leaf with the trimming edge would it pull it in? Seems like a deck needs to be pulling air to do a good job...at least on my lawn. I have a anti blowout lip on my Deere deck and it cuts great and will pull in a leaf or piece of paper from 3" away...but leaves rocks and pebbles alone.


#180

M

mooch91

Beautiful lawn....about what is your ground speed?
I'm on the fence about a raptor SD or the new ariens ikon. Does the deck on the SD seem like it has any suction...I mean...if you passed a leaf with the trimming edge would it pull it in? Seems like a deck needs to be pulling air to do a good job...at least on my lawn. I have a anti blowout lip on my Deere deck and it cuts great and will pull in a leaf or piece of paper from 3" away...but leaves rocks and pebbles alone.

It had almost no vacuum with the standard blades that come stock on the mower. I could run over stones, sticks, near leaves, and it wouldn't pick any of them up.

With the ultra high-lift blades I have now the vacuum is much better, but there's still a lot it won't pick up. Most stones stay put and only occasionally will it pick and shred a stick.

In contrast, my Snapper Pro walk-behind would suck up everything, including the soil, when I ran over it.


#181

K

kraky

Thanks Mooch...and how about ground speed vrs quality of cut. Is there a big difference between say 3-4 MPH vrs full ground speed? I love the idea of the SD having the monster tires, kaw engine, and 2800 hydros but quality of cut is important to me. It almost seems to me your lawn is "so thick" it won't let the clippings drop in between the grass blades to disappear?
Are you happy enough to keep the machine.....or.....shopping again...lol?


#182

M

mooch91

Thanks Mooch...and how about ground speed vrs quality of cut. Is there a big difference between say 3-4 MPH vrs full ground speed? I love the idea of the SD having the monster tires, kaw engine, and 2800 hydros but quality of cut is important to me. It almost seems to me your lawn is "so thick" it won't let the clippings drop in between the grass blades to disappear?
Are you happy enough to keep the machine.....or.....shopping again...lol?

I've cut at full speed and have slowed it down considerably. I see a bit poorer discharge and cut at full speed, but I can never move slow enough to totally stop the uneven discharge and clumping from my mower.

I'm waiting for the opportunity to demo a couple of other machines before passing final judgment on the Raptor SD for my lawn...


#183

T

turboawd

i wonder if you could benefit from a mulching kit. it would probably keep the grass suspended longer in the deck and chew up the grass more.

Shop Hustler 54-in Zero-Turn Radius Mower (ZTR) Mulch Kit at Lowes.com

hlZ7c1Y.jpg


hlZ7c1Y.jpg


#184

R

RaptorSDer

I've cut at full speed and have slowed it down considerably. I see a bit poorer discharge and cut at full speed, but I can never move slow enough to totally stop the uneven discharge and clumping from my mower. I'm waiting for the opportunity to demo a couple of other machines before passing final judgment on the Raptor SD for my lawn...

Are you going to demo another SD to make sure it's not an issue specific to your unit? I had an older Dixon that was having issues much like yours and I (after much headache) found out I had a belt slipping. With a new belt with proper tension it was back to cutting like new.


#185

PVHIII

PVHIII

Are you going to demo another SD to make sure it's not an issue specific to your unit? I had an older Dixon that was having issues much like yours and I (after much headache) found out I had a belt slipping. With a new belt with proper tension it was back to cutting like new.

When he demo's that Fast Trak he's not gonna want to get off of it...It will literally mow circles around that Raptor...been there done that lol


#186

M

mooch91

Are you going to demo another SD to make sure it's not an issue specific to your unit? I had an older Dixon that was having issues much like yours and I (after much headache) found out I had a belt slipping. With a new belt with proper tension it was back to cutting like new.

Is this something I can check now? I've never thrown a belt, or had one shred, like some folks on this forum so I never gave it much consideration. But I don't believe there are any adjustments on the deck belt, just a spring that holds it in place.

If there's a troubleshooting procedure for the deck belt, I'd love to give it a shot.


#187

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

Is this something I can check now? I've never thrown a belt, or had one shred, like some folks on this forum so I never gave it much consideration.

... maybe there is a clue in that?
Like, your deck is not loading up.

But I don't believe there are any adjustments on the deck belt, just a spring that holds it in place.
I
If there's a troubleshooting procedure for the deck belt, I'd love to give it a shot.

Been following along in this loooooong thread about not a lot
to break wind now and point out what seems to have been missed
as comment.... for the grass you are cutting that is a hell of a lot
of remanant adorning your ride. It looks like you have been cutting
tiger grass!
A video would help some but I read now you may be getting closer
to solving your issue...deck setup.

Has to be what it is, your ride is coasting, there is significant
blowby, you report little suction and now you say no belts used
in that kind of acreage. I reckon that sucker is not loaded up.

My ride is not in the same league as you big boys but by crikey
you have to wear long pants or it will suck yer foreskin off the seat!
Ol'Yella sounds like a hovercraft coming up the driveway and spits
4" of cut near on 20' off the chute.
The missus is forever doing wheelies near the driveway, missing her
track, spewing me $140/m 1/2 white marble back over the lawn.
Does me back in picking that stuff up and finding it's spot in
the driveway!! At least I don't need to clean under the deck those
days..heh.

So far - aside from a comment about brands that just will not work -
the best advice I have noted is to ride another machine with the same
nomenculture as yours. Then catalogue how it is setup and copy it.

.... in for a penny in for a pound, setup?

KK


#188

K

kraky

This thread is now really long and it may have been covered already but I've seen posts where guys claim there was a certain period of time where raptors got out of the factory w/wrong sized pulleys which slowed blade speed. The story seems a bit funny in that a person would think wrong pulleys would affect belt tension. I guess it would be worth looking to see if your belt is real shiney/glazed on the outside?
When I shopped a raptor sd54 and referenced cutting issues w/the dealer he said he'd equip it w/high lift blades and tilt the deck down a tiny bit at the rear. He said the theory is it breaks the seal of the deck allowing air up front and better discharge. Just saying what he said. He's waiting for another shipment. He seems to be selling alot of these.
Mooch....do the high lift blades take more power than the standard ones?


#189

K

kraky

Another idea...over at Exmarks factory site they talk about "breaking the air seal" too. But they prefer dipping the deck at the front. One way they suggested playing with the idea was to level the deck then use air pressure in the tires to do the dipping. It kinda make sense that it would be easier than playing w/deck adjudtments over and over again. A guy could pretty easily try a combination short term playing w/the tires.


#190

PVHIII

PVHIII

This thread is now really long and it may have been covered already but I've seen posts where guys claim there was a certain period of time where raptors got out of the factory w/wrong sized pulleys which slowed blade speed. The story seems a bit funny in that a person would think wrong pulleys would affect belt tension. I guess it would be worth looking to see if your belt is real shiney/glazed on the outside?
When I shopped a raptor sd54 and referenced cutting issues w/the dealer he said he'd equip it w/high lift blades and tilt the deck down a tiny bit at the rear. He said the theory is it breaks the seal of the deck allowing air up front and better discharge. Just saying what he said. He's waiting for another shipment. He seems to be selling alot of these.
Mooch....do the high lift blades take more power than the standard ones?

Pulley size also affects BTS which in turn affects cut quality and discharge... I think this is what the OP was questioning not necessarily the tension of the belt....smaller the pulley faster the BTS...larger the pulley the slower the BTS...just like gears... I may have this formula wrong but it's one way or the other.


#191

K

kraky

I understand the pulley size thing but it would seem if the wrong pulleys were on the standard issue belt wouldn't tension properly.....but I'm not sure how they tension it...maybe there is enough travel in the idlers to have a mismatch at the factory and get away with it?


#192

PVHIII

PVHIII

Is this something I can check now? I've never thrown a belt, or had one shred, like some folks on this forum so I never gave it much consideration. But I don't believe there are any adjustments on the deck belt, just a spring that holds it in place.

If there's a troubleshooting procedure for the deck belt, I'd love to give it a shot.
https://youtu.be/igwY98KEpvc video of new model Fast Trak mowing


#193

PVHIII

PVHIII

Thanks. Home-made, per some instructions and ideas on lawnsite.com.
https://youtu.be/igwY98KEpvc Better video of new model Fast Trak.


#194

PVHIII

PVHIII

Still waiting too, the holiday weekend did not allow me to reserve with the dealer this weekend.

I'll share an update on the cut I made yesterday. Six days since my last cut due to a short vacation again this time. It was long, for sure, but by no means a pasture at this point.

I measure that I was cutting at about 5 1/2 inches of length:

13EE8402-F1F7-4FB5-AEE9-273A20DC3B21_zpsajpqbkxh.jpg



Or to put it another way, taking off about 2 - 2 1/2 inches:

C59DF2DA-91A8-4137-BE33-74DC252E3353_zpscneujzkw.jpg



I cleaned the deck beforehand and put the high-lift blades back on. About 1/3 of a 5-gallon bucket worth of scrap came off:

BC8AE6A7-3A2A-4608-92F5-2B9493CE4C68_zpsp2kjvstr.jpg



Some pics during and after pass number one:

5A185858-6137-46E7-BD0B-D94A6BE3870C_zpsyacuqait.jpg


9890E216-902A-4207-B85D-F0D0873FEAFF_zpsuwlfbor2.jpg


30E1B93A-8E7E-4D8B-B290-9EFBA47D6213_zpsw0pyrcdj.jpg


71B1161A-FF3A-430D-8CBE-1DBCC40B6CA2_zpsfbtyfxjd.jpg


6D792E51-86F9-456B-8D53-656E3F184472_zpssnrkvidp.jpg


F915D490-01C0-4082-BE96-D236B7989A1E_zpspavx9fb4.jpg



I then raised the deck by 1/2 inch and did a second (and in some cases a third) pass across the whole lawn to try to disperse the clippings, in progress shot:

DE4185F9-93BD-441A-8697-2B7D53540268_zpskaalyqv1.jpg



Ended up like this:

DB5FF6B8-9EC0-4307-BA82-80CA769DF04E_zpsyn3bwdwl.jpg


5315453A-DA62-4C39-AE1E-EA5C42C13A93_zpsx399ujsw.jpg



Couldn't get them to completely disappear, I was just blowing them back and forth after a while, but the stripes looked nice:

AFFB8548-C9D6-4E16-8210-4991D1348EC4_zpsx62luxvr.jpg



Healthy amount of deck blowout happening with the high-lift blades and the deck raised by 1/2 inch:

2B0AC075-DBBE-41D1-84E1-3A32BC6EBDE2_zpsmxvahmsl.jpg
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eIIWdww0tY8


#195

M

mooch91

Could I be cutting too SHORT?

It's been two days since my last cut to 3" and I went and tinkered with the mower today.

Pulled off the belt covers, wanted to check how the belt and pullies looked. It was definitely packed good with grass, but no evidence of misalignment, damage or glazing to the belt, or anything else not working right:

4207FE73-35E1-4592-9D81-6EF78368D69C_zpsiprs5bfn.jpg


C0483619-B8EC-417C-818D-0488A6F51787_zpsqrfkofij.jpg


9DF02ABC-B75A-46B0-91E9-0A5D8334F26E_zpst6vgpj9d.jpg


0D58BB85-2E64-4D96-BC85-63B699FD75AB_zpsik7wzdyi.jpg


C102FC29-2AA6-4590-81D8-CFA4BBDD74D0_zpsbcdd7ao6.jpg


4B8F8E89-48F8-433A-A13C-AF81CA751CE6_zpsgp4u5atm.jpg


E06DDAD7-5CC7-46DF-BC85-34574D5DED49_zpsuc1kqthr.jpg


#196

M

mooch91

Re-leveled the deck and decided to try a cut. Now remember, it's been TWO DAYS (actually closer to 1 1/2 when I tried this morning). It was a little damp from rain yesterday, but not too bad.

Got this, cutting down to 3":

7CC3163F-4255-46A7-A145-1F280971292C_zpsujqlmqo2.jpg


ED985ED3-000D-4287-859C-C8A874A7FFF7_zpswubgd202.jpg


D2E28738-4D1B-4DC3-9975-5E875DF0BD27_zps0hxccqjy.jpg


E7F38B7C-AC5E-4C8E-9B45-5A22C9902ABB_zps1akdowlp.jpg


7BBF185D-6DAE-42B2-A877-B05599A49269_zpssbbmgnzd.jpg


Hard to appreciate from the pictures, but the lawn was littered with small clumps. I stopped after a dozen passes or so.

Did I mention I'm cutting only TWO DAYS worth of growth?


#197

M

mooch91

So for grins, I raised the deck another 1/2" (about 3.5") and ran over the whole lawn.

At this point, the cut was phenomenal:

[
ED7D9AE7-A354-4F20-9618-225DDD93F08E_zpss0g0jwcf.jpg


31363FBF-76DC-468E-B267-5B8D58FD5B26_zpsywzordkr.jpg


4542D840-C6CB-42FB-9AC5-C9CE1A54BD42_zpsird93byu.jpg


207002B4-AC31-466C-BC9A-B8FC99F7887C_zpsenpkrxy0.jpg



Left with just some dry clippings that dispersed when I blew them in to the lawn:

DF6047CB-4D89-40EB-AEF4-EB37B50F5908_zpst0rjp2xn.jpg



Not sure if the good result is a result of the lighter load (two days growth + 1/2" higher cut) or if the higher cut overall works much better on my lawn. I have been having more problems this year (compared to last) and one thing that changed was I reduced the cut height to 3" based upon some earlier recommendations in this thread. I had been previously cutting at 3.5 - 3.75". Still had some issues at that height but far less than what I've been experiencing this season.


#198

K

kraky

Interesting vid on the fasttrack. It looks like there's plenty of "blow" going on yet there is NOT an even discharge. You can almost see the timing of the deck loading up and sending out a discharge....then less grass comes out for a short while...then another load up and big discharge. The cut is clean....the discharge is just plain strange. If the fastrack deck is much better than the raptor SD I'm getting skeptical.
Dang....Everything else I love about the raptor SD.....the deck.....has me wanting more.


#199

PVHIII

PVHIII

Could I be cutting too SHORT?

It's been two days since my last cut to 3" and I went and tinkered with the mower today.

Pulled off the belt covers, wanted to check how the belt and pullies looked. It was definitely packed good with grass, but no evidence of misalignment, damage or glazing to the belt, or anything else not working right:

4207FE73-35E1-4592-9D81-6EF78368D69C_zpsiprs5bfn.jpg


C0483619-B8EC-417C-818D-0488A6F51787_zpsqrfkofij.jpg


9DF02ABC-B75A-46B0-91E9-0A5D8334F26E_zpst6vgpj9d.jpg


0D58BB85-2E64-4D96-BC85-63B699FD75AB_zpsik7wzdyi.jpg


C102FC29-2AA6-4590-81D8-CFA4BBDD74D0_zpsbcdd7ao6.jpg


4B8F8E89-48F8-433A-A13C-AF81CA751CE6_zpsgp4u5atm.jpg


E06DDAD7-5CC7-46DF-BC85-34574D5DED49_zpsuc1kqthr.jpg
I always take my blower to mine when I get done mowing... Keeps buildup outta the trans fans and outta all the nooks and crannies on the deck


#200

FieldCut48

FieldCut48

Your yard looks awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


#201

K

kraky

Awesome might be an understatement! There isn't a golf course within 50 mi of my place that wouldn't be jealous.......let alone ME!


#202

M

mooch91

Awesome might be an understatement! There isn't a golf course within 50 mi of my place that wouldn't be jealous.......let alone ME!

I was proud of it yesterday! Just wish I could get it to look like that all the time without having to triple-cut it every two days!


#203

K

kielby

I was proud of it yesterday! Just wish I could get it to look like that all the time without having to triple-cut it every two days!

Are you using any kind of striping kit with your mower?


#204

M

mooch91

Are you using any kind of striping kit with your mower?

Yes, homemade:
IMG_20140613_071915_332_zpsc8fc03a7.jpg


#205

K

kraky

I will be interested to see any results from other mower demo's. Your lawn is so darn thick when you cut 2-3" its like a normal guy cutting 4-5"... lol. Then its so darn thick the standing grass keeps it from dropping down in and disappearing. I really wonder ( unless you somehow semi mulch) if any other brand can make clippings disappear in one pass. So..if you get a "magical" demo I'd like to know what it was!


#206

M

Matt052

Yes, homemade:

Kindorf?


#207

M

mooch91


Unistrut. There's some good how-tos on lawnsite.com.

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=192602


#208

K

kraky

I was banging around eBay today to see what was out there for striping kits for my jd lawn tractor.
It already leaves a bit of a stripe but wanted a little more. This caught my eye and i ordered one. Looks like the guy is making them up and selling there. Reviews aren't bad. I like that its easily universal and think it might do what I want. Spent $79 more foolishly.....

Adjustable Lawn Striping Kit for Mowers John Deere Toro Cub Cadet and Others | eBay


#209

M

mooch91

I was banging around eBay today to see what was out there for striping kits for my jd lawn tractor.
It already leaves a bit of a stripe but wanted a little more. This caught my eye and i ordered one. Looks like the guy is making them up and selling there. Reviews aren't bad. I like that its easily universal and think it might do what I want. Spent $79 more foolishly.....

Adjustable Lawn Striping Kit for Mowers John Deere Toro Cub Cadet and Others | eBay

I like the heavy rubber flap. My latest custom project is a discharge chute that I can close while passing by my planting beds, to keep the clippings out of the mulch. I need something like that rubber flap to do the job - anything else is just too light and gets blown open by the discharge.


#210

M

mooch91

Trying the higher cut - 3.5 inches - super high lift blades.

Stripes are still pretty awesome.

Amount of sloppy clippings left behind is just a little bit less. Not nearly enough to say I'm happy.

Deck blowout from the side and front is SEVERE.

This is only three days since last cut (Saturday afternoon). No rain the past three days.

IMG_1378_zpslx8kelmd.jpg


IMG_1368_zpsutr38rzk.jpg


IMG_1366_zpsi7jo1grp.jpg


I should have done a selfie to show all the grass on my shirt and face. Must've left my selfie stick somewhere.

This weekend will be my demo weekend. I have a couple of dealers lined up, I'm not counting on the upgraded Hustlers alone.


#211

M

mooch91

I do have a replacement discharge chute on order since I cut mine. I may go back to using the unmodified one again, and probably need to restore it anyway if I trade the machine in.

Since I already cut the old one, I wanted to experiment creating an "operator controlled discharge chute" - a blockoff plate to prevent discharging in to my flower beds. I have a fairly narrow swatch (about 8 feet) between my two primary planting beds that gets filled with grass. I just mulched it two weeks ago with some dark brown mulch and it looks gray already from the yellowed grass clippings that have blown in when I mulched.

Works OK, not great. I have to manually flip it down when I'm passing through the flower bed area, and then I manually lift it when I'm done. Although it's a fairly heavy steel plate, it does lift from the discharge and will still blow out some clippings. I'm thinking of drilling some holes in it to allow the air out, but keep the grass in.

IMG_1376_zpshti0g0br.jpg


IMG_1375_zpsal4jvdif.jpg


IMG_1374_zpsea5nqcle.jpg


IMG_1370_zpsbcffivxr.jpg


#212

T

turboawd

those clumps in the mulch blew out the left side of deck?


#213

M

mooch91

No, probably from the right side of the deck when I passed along the opposite edge of the bed.


#214

K

kraky

Fwiw...years ago I played w/the discharge chute on a mower I had. I tried no chute, lifting the chute slightly, and cutting the chute so there wasn't alot of overhang beyond the deck. In my "experiment" I found that particular deck liked the chute as from the factory but lifted just a bit..Accomplished by gluing an easily removable wood block on top of the deck. It was my "theory" that best performance came from having just a little back pressure created by the chute. Think of having your thumb on the garden hose as water comes out...just a little pressure to make it fan out. The "no chute" idea seems good and you see a ton of people doing it.....but its a great strategy for getting wet grass all over yourself, your mower, on top of the deck...and on your engine. Really a bad idea w/wet grass and a windy day...lol!


#215

K

Kremeneon

Fwiw...years ago I played w/the discharge chute on a mower I had. I tried no chute, lifting the chute slightly, and cutting the chute so there wasn't alot of overhang beyond the deck. In my "experiment" I found that particular deck liked the chute as from the factory but lifted just a bit..Accomplished by gluing an easily removable wood block on top of the deck.

This is how I run my RSD54 with the Gator blades. lifted via bungee cord about 20 degrees or so (maybe 4" at the end) I drop it fully to blow off sidewalks and stuff or lift a little more if away from the house and I really need it to disperse clippings as much as possible.


#216

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

This is how I run my RSD54 with the Gator blades. lifted via bungee cord about 20 degrees or so (maybe 4" a the the end) I drop it fully to blow off sidewalks and stuff or lift a little more if away from the house and I really need it to disperse clippings as much as possible.

With my 'mod' I can opt out to dump in a very neat 300mm (1') wide
windrow, no spillage. It's conditional in that grass over 200mm (8")
has to be mowed twice, but the idea works well.
After reading this thread I am thinking a smart man would patent(?)
the concept :)

KK


#217

K

kraky

There are a bunch of people making chutes like this.....here's one...

The Qwikchute Advantage

For me up here in wisconsin we have fall leaf grinding where it would also be nice.....blow the leaves to a remote area of the lawn and drop the chute for a final "grind". Then again hoping w/23 HP on tap and gator blades a few "go overs" might have them pretty much disappear. I still have my jd l tractor w/bagger too. That thing is like a giant vacume cleaner but its a dusty adventure and requires tailoring waste to the city composite pile.....2 days after an immaculant clean up the neighbors leaves all come to visit....happens every year...lol!


#218

G

Grass Whisper

New to this forum, recently purchased Raptor SD 54 (1.5hours so far on mower). Must say not completely happy with the mulch cut.

Background: I have Empire Zoysia, and like to keep it at a 1/2 inch. I have only ever mulched with this mower and have the Mulching kit installed by the dealer. I too have clumping issues. I have read all the comments up to this point.

Normally cut the yard with Toro Super Recycler and it mulches super and leaves a great finish. Went into the Hustler with the expectation that the cut would be comparable to the Toro pusher. So, now I have a mower that others and I have less than optimal mulching or cutting.
Wish I new this prior to my purchase.

However, I don't think all is lost...

Looked under the deck and I do indeed have the full mulching kit installed. Wave blades with baffles, and the metal guards. But the blades are dull. (Zoysia has a high silica content in the grass blade and will dull the crap out of any blade in a hurry). So first step is to have sharp blades. Next, don't let the grass get too high prior to cutting. And don't cut the grass if its at all wet.

So far I am going to give 2 days of growth and give it a whirl.


#219

K

Kremeneon

But the blades are dull. (Zoysia has a high silica content in the grass blade and will dull the crap out of any blade in a hurry).


The Oregon Gator G5 Blades have a bit of carbide at the cutting edge (I think they sputter it on the underside of the blade) and go much longer between sharpening.

They are marketed as a mulching blade also.

I quite like them.


#220

G

Grass Whisper

"Oregon Gator G5 Blades have a bit of carbide at the cutting edge"

Think that is a great idea for keeping blades sharp. I have also knocked around a "Cryo-treated blade" to help keep blade sharp.

I wish that companies would do R/D to determine what works and what needs refining. After all $4000.00 did not fall out of the sky for this mower purchase.


#221

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

There are a bunch of people making chutes like this.....here's one...

The Qwikchute Advantage

For me up here in wisconsin we have fall leaf grinding where it would also be nice.....blow the leaves to a remote area of the lawn and drop the chute for a final "grind". Then again hoping w/23 HP on tap and gator blades a few "go overs" might have them pretty much disappear. I still have my jd l tractor w/bagger too. That thing is like a giant vacume cleaner but its a dusty adventure and requires tailoring waste to the city composite pile.....2 days after an immaculant clean up the neighbors leaves all come to visit....happens every year...lol!

Yeup...seen yer "Fall", some say it is "pretty", me, I differ :)

Tried that Qwikchute concept and seen others fit similar.
Diddun work for me, clogging the deck continually. So
basically I use a chute out of the deck to dump vertically
into a row. It works and that comment about debri discharge
and safety...?..using the vertical discharge there is no chance
of flying objects. All that said mine is not to what I want yet in
terms of versitility...so it could be a while before I yam famous
on eweToob :laughing:

KK


#222

K

kraky

Fwiw...re fall leaf grinding...one thing I've found works pretty good...get the leaves chopped and rounded up some....then pass over them in reverse....they spend alot more time in the blades going from the entry point to the left inside the deck and then reversing direction and out the discharge. Sounds crazy but try it...it works...a pass in reverse will grind finer than two in forward....at least on my Deere deck.


#223

T

turboawd

The Oregon Gator G5 Blades have a bit of carbide at the cutting edge (I think they sputter it on the underside of the blade) and go much longer between sharpening.

They are marketed as a mulching blade also.

I quite like them.

i can definetly say that the oregon blades keep a sharper edge a lot longer. the hustler blades dont have any special cutting edge to them.
you can buy them cheap on ebay for example:
Set of 3 Blades for Hustler 18 1 2 in 601124 797704 MB12733 596 808 G5 Blade | eBay


#224

K

kraky

Funny...that's the exact place I just got mine from...super fast shipper too!


#225

G

Grass Whisper

Update: Well cut the back yard yesterday and noticed that the condition of clumping and leaving grass trails off the right side of the deck remain the same. The grass height was about 2 1/2 inch and really did not need to be cut. Not sure if you recall but I have the mulching kit installed on a RSD 54inch but its just a mess. I used the blower to help break it up. Ok, my question is will the Hustler line mulch zoysia @ 2 inch cut? I think I'm ready to upgrade to a better machine.

At the end of the day I would like to have a ZTR that will give a great finish using a mulching system that is proven. I am in the Hustler line and don't think I can get out of the deal. Mower has 3 hours on the machine. Thoughts

If only I had that crystal ball?..


#226

K

kraky

I don't know much about that grass but I've never heard of mulching something that short. Up here in wisconsin we have lots of different grasses but I always told people we sold Deere mowers to that they should forget mulching OR bagging (cut n throw) unless they'd cut 2.5" or higher cause the deck has to have airflow. Heck my pushmower couldn't cut down to 1/2 inch w/o dragging the deck in the dirt on my lawn. The topsoil on your lawn must be as smooth as a highway! Not trying to be a smart Alec....just can't imagine that kind of grass/cutting.


#227

G

Grass Whisper

Kraky: Should have said 2 inch cut. My mistake.

I went with the RSD b/c it had widest tires of the line and thought that it would reduce rutting with the wider tire print. Now, if I look at upgrading the mower to a fastrak the drive tires go down in size. Would the fastrak deeper deck mulch better or not? Is my thinking off with the rutting and the size of the drive tire issue? Thanks for your help ahead of time. ;)


#228

K

kraky

I think thats a question for your dealer.....no matter what brand you look at. To mulch, air has to be pulled into the deck and there has to be room for it and grass particles to escape. I've got two mulching push mowers that do pretty good for me but the lower I go the more they struggle. At some point they can't get rid of clippings and they start building up and dropping in streaks on one side of the deck.....often its the side where uncut grass is outside the edge of the deck. I'm not sure a higher dome necessarily makes or breaks it all....I think its really all about airflow.
In reality I think a stamped deck that was built w/mulching in mind would likely do you better. When people say stamped decks aren't strong they're wrong. A properly hung deck should be hung from the tractor and not ridden on the ground....its basically a hover craft w/gauge wheels .....the gauge wheels are there to lift it when it it hits a bump in the ground.....the deck should be totally in the air 95% of the time. The lower you want to cut that grass and mulch the more often you're gonna have to mow and take less grass off per mowing.
PS....I know what you're saying about the big tires..I love em.


#229

K

kraky

Over time I've come to believe there is a "perfect 1/4" " for most mowers and grasses. Up here we should cut our grass longer to keep it healthy. Lets say I cut at 2.75". My deck is hardly working...clippings are small and virtually disappear into the uncut grass almost like mulching but my cut quality is ragged. It might be that I've got a little too much wind in the deck and the tips of the grass are moving around and not getting cut even.

So...now I drop to 2.5". I can feel it takes a little mor hp. The grass is still fanning out pretty darn nice and my cut quality improves as the grass I'm cutting is a little less whispy....it has to "stand and face the blades". Its pretty darn good.

So...I think a little more must be better. Now I drop to 2.25" and holy crap I "hit the wall". I can feel my engine is working lots harder...grass isn't fanning out...its starting to windrow. The clippings are thick and now sitting on top of the cut grass. And...I start to see a little bit of stripping between the blades cause there is so many clippings being passed around in the deck that the blades aren't able to concentrate on clipping the standing grass.
Its often amazing when you go that extra 1/4" lower and everything kind of hits a redline.

So.....my perfect height where that mower worked was 2.5". Maybe another brand of mower will like a slightly heigher or lower cut. Maybe brand A works great in northern grass and not so good in southern...and vice versa. Its all a crap shoot sometimes and not necessarily that one brand of mower is "junk".
I've seen cheap $1000 murreys cut fantastic in some conditions....and $7000 Jd's not so good in others. Any "mulching" is an even more tempermental adventure with all kinds of deck configurations, baffles, blades etc.
Sometimes the owner can do himself a favor by living with a slightly heigher or lower cut than he initially wanted. Sometimes we get great performance on some parts of our lawn but might have to go over the clippings on the the thicker wetter parts of our lawn. And it all changes throughout the year....I guess unless we're lucky enough to be irrigated.
I guess my advice is talk to dealers in your area if you want to mulch.....watch the expression on their face when they tell you if they can do it or not....it might tell you a more honest outlook than their words. If they sell alot of mowers they'll know what your chances are....LOL.


#230

D

DJ660

I to this day do not understand how you can block off the discharge chute on a multi-bladed mower deck (Other that the Old Bolens and Troybilt units) and mulch......Well I should say mulch well. Now, I have tried a Hustler XR7 deck with much kit and the lowest lift blades they make and it did a fair job, not perfect but fair. The problem with mulching is you cannot have a blade with ANY kind of lift at all. Too much airflow or "vacuum" and deck, blades and the airflow will not "Let go" of the grass and keep it suspended, Once this happens that's when the deck starts making that grinding, banging noise underneath and clumping starts. Just look at a old Bolens mulching mower or Troybilt 33" Widecut. Now those could mulch. But look at the design of the blade and deck. They mulched awesome, but that was it. Forget bagging or throwing. Maybe they were ahead of there time??? So, If your trying to mulch, Gators or any other blade with "lift" will not work. I would try a set of "Sand" no lift blades.


#231

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

I to this day do not understand how you can block off the discharge chute on a multi-bladed mower deck (Other that the Old Bolens and Troybilt units) and mulch......Well I should say mulch well. [...].
Right on..!
Yourself and <kraky> have mowing sense. The rest...?.. it's rare on these bLogs today
one gets exposed to such a degree of narcisstic dogmatic trolling. It's either one
clueless git seeking cost free Mowing 101 or a bunch of mirror obsessed lawn freaks
having a Mad Alice tea party.
Either way the thread is junk and I have tried to get Admin to block it from my read.
No answer, so far.

FWIW... I do regularly MORE on less mower than the SD or Fastrack, easily.
Either those operators whinging cannot drive or carnt Talk, to their mower dealer.

End of.
I follow certain posters. Do us all a favor and stay off this junk thread.

KK


#232

M

mooch91

OP back...

Fasttrack demo completed today.

Fasttrack and Raptor SD mowing comparison coming this afternoon.

A little teaser:
IMG_1388_zpsm5paxiut.jpg


#233

M

mooch91

Demo unit was a standard Fastrack with about 72 hours on the clock.

Blades were the 'standard' ones that were 'freshened up' with a new edge right before I took it home and deck was scraped (I watched both at the shop).

I set the deck at the 3.25" setting, though I did not confirm actual height (feels like it was about right), which is about 0.25" lower than I have been cutting on the Raptor SD.

Deck itself on the Fastrack was pitched UP in the front about 0.25". I did not confirm the pitch on the blades. I've had the Raptor SD deck DOWN about 0.25" in the front. Not a very meaningful comparison unless I can confirm the blades on both units have the same pitch.

I did not check tire pressure.

We had a thunderstorm dump a ton of rain about 4AM, and I cut at 9. The grass was still very damp, and in some small spots, soggy.

Here is a pic of the unit:
IMG_1381_zpskt2qpk4u.jpg


#234

M

mooch91

It is definitely a different machine, I knew that the minute I sat on it. May have been the way this one was set up, but I felt like I was sitting way back compared to the Raptor SD. Took a while to get my feel for center of gravity. Since I do have some hills, being stable is important for me. I felt the front wheels come off the ground when I was getting it off the trailer and the first time I 'gunned' it on my driveway. My Raptor rarely has the front wheels come off the ground, probably because I more in tune with how I have to shift my body to keep the center of gravity stable.

Although the Fastrack and the Raptor SD have the same engine, the Fastrack definitely felt faster. Speed was much easier to control. I feel very 'jerky' at times with the sticks on the Raptor SD; I was butter smooth with the Fastrack.

The Fastrack is a tighter machine in many ways. There's no rattle of the deck from the blades. Even running across the turf is smooth. Are those the flex forks on the front of this model (the website shows a yellow fork)?

I jumped back on the Raptor SD for a few passes and couldn't believe how harsh it felt compared to the Fastrack.

Discharge opening is clearly much bigger on the deck (I did not take any pictures).

The ROPS took some getting used to. I knocked some rain off a few trees and on to me and I almost took out the hanger that extends from my lamppost when I was cutting around it.

On to the important part, the cut:

I was cutting approximately 4 days of damp growth. This is sort of an apples-to-oranges comparison of what I've been cutting with the Raptor SD since I've been using it exclusively dry, but it's definitely a worst-case comparison. And I was comparing standard lift blades on the Fastrack to the high lifts I currently have on the Raptor SD.

I ran it the majority of the time with the chute down.

The Fastrack definitely left clippings. I noticed that discharge distance was not very far - maybe 3-4 feet at the most with the chute down. But no clumps whatsoever. I had to break out the Raptor SD for a few passes just to make sure I wasn't kidding myself, and as soon as I did, the clumps were there and very obvious.

In most cases, the clippings probably would have disappeared by tomorrow. But since I was demo-ing, I figured I'd run a few passes to see how the Fastrack handled it. One BIG difference I saw with the Fastrack was that successive passes chopped and dispersed the clippings even finer. For the most part, the Raptor SD would just blow around the clippings, basically moving around the clumps. The Fastrack made them finer and distributed them each time. I did a number of passes with the chute up, and the first and second passes of the clippings just disappeared.

The Fastrack chute did have an advantage over the Raptor - when I was mowing in between my flower beds, it did not throw the clippings across in to the mulch of the other bed like the Raptor likes to do. Consistent with my observation that the discharge distance with chute down is not very far on the Fastrack.

I wore virtually no clippings. In fact, I was able to take a trip to the bank on my way to return the mower. With the Raptor, I would have been covered up to my knees in clippings (see my picture from earlier this week).

So, with two passes over about 50% of the lawn, I was able to clean up virtually all clippings that were generated. I think I could have done better with the chute up and maybe even avoided the second cut.

As you can see from the picture I posted earlier - striping was phenomenal (and this is without my homemade roller). I see that Hustler does offer a striping kit for this mower - I did not look to see if it was installed (though I did see that the demo unit had the optional headlights), though I don't think it was. I'm now seeing the benefits of following the exact same lines each time I cut (something I started a few weeks back).

Bottom line: Far and away better than the Raptor SD. I think the outcome, even at one pass, was more in line with my expectations of how a mower should handle the growth I receive. I was definitely impressed!


#235

K

kraky

Man....that is THE most stunning residential striping I've seen.
Fwiw....when I talked to a hustler dealer he said best performance comes from deck dipped slightly at rear.....not sure if this was a factory recommendation or local knowledge.
I've got my raptor SD set level and its doing good on my lawn for me...actually really good.

Mooch....let us know not just about cut....but how "quiet" is the machine re rattles and buzzes compared to the raptor SD...also....tell us about how controls feel?


#236

K

kraky

Oops you answered everything...we must have been typing at the same time! Guess we all have to realize you get what you pay for...the raptor may be "flinstone refined" but still alot of machine for $4000.
The extra dough gets you the refined machine we all hoped to get but reality is what it is...lol!


#237

M

mooch91

Right on..!
Yourself and <kraky> have mowing sense. The rest...?.. it's rare on these bLogs today
one gets exposed to such a degree of narcisstic dogmatic trolling. It's either one
clueless git seeking cost free Mowing 101 or a bunch of mirror obsessed lawn freaks
having a Mad Alice tea party.
Either way the thread is junk and I have tried to get Admin to block it from my read.
No answer, so far.

FWIW... I do regularly MORE on less mower than the SD or Fastrack, easily.
Either those operators whinging cannot drive or carnt Talk, to their mower dealer.

End of.
I follow certain posters. Do us all a favor and stay off this junk thread.

KK

Man, I didn't realize my thread was so controversial! Lol.


#238

G

Grass Whisper

Well, I am a homeowner and new to the LawnWorld forum and boy it didn't take long to get someone pi@@ed off. I am indeed a neophite when it comes to using a ZTR and have all of 3 hours on my machine. See, its like this: I am trying to get all happy with a new mower and would like to have the same results as my Toro Super Recycler but my RSD leaves clumps. And thats with the dealer mulch kit. So, I come here to ask what to do and are my expectations reasonable or just whacked. Dealer will work with me to change to a different model but his answer is "We can try it and see". I wonder if anyone is getting great results on a different model cutting at @ 2 inches while mulching.

I do indeed have the nicest lawn in my neighborhood. I have attended anything about turf grass that I can and enjoy my yard more than anyone. Yep, Im pretty nuts. Certified turf grass nerd. And that's OK with me. But the information I would like is if I upgrade to a Fastrak or a Fastrak SD and use a mulch kit will it perform like I would like?

I never had the intention to irritate KrashnKraka but strike one for me, my bad brother. Wish you could just drop by and let me extract all your experience so I could just be a happy content mower and enjoy a nice my nice yard.

BTW: Empire Zoysia is what I have.


#239

S

Shughes717

Well, I am a homeowner and new to the LawnWorld forum and boy it didn't take long to get someone pi@@ed off. I am indeed a neophite when it comes to using a ZTR and have all of 3 hours on my machine. See, its like this: I am trying to get all happy with a new mower and would like to have the same results as my Toro Super Recycler but my RSD leaves clumps. And thats with the dealer mulch kit. So, I come here to ask what to do and are my expectations reasonable or just whacked. Dealer will work with me to change to a different model but his answer is "We can try it and see". I wonder if anyone is getting great results on a different model cutting at @ 2 inches while mulching.

I do indeed have the nicest lawn in my neighborhood. I have attended anything about turf grass that I can and enjoy my yard more than anyone. Yep, Im pretty nuts. Certified turf grass nerd. And that's OK with me. But the information I would like is if I upgrade to a Fastrak or a Fastrak SD and use a mulch kit will it perform like I would like?

I never had the intention to irritate KrashnKraka but strike one for me, my bad brother. Wish you could just drop by and let me extract all your experience so I could just be a happy content mower and enjoy a nice my nice yard.

BTW: Empire Zoysia is what I have.

You don't have to apologize to anyone. This site is here so members can seek advice concerning lawn care, and for members to share their experiences with others. If someone has a problem with posts on a thread then they can either not click into the thread, or ignore the post. It is obvious you weren't trying to offend anyone with your post. It seems that some members post that they are irritated just to create some drama.

I had zoysia in the lawn at my old house. I mulched it as well. I cut it at about 2.5 inches with gator blades. I had to mow about every 5 days to prevent clumping. I was mowing with a residential 42" lawn tractor for all but the last couple of years though. The bts was much slower than the ztr mower I'm using now.


#240

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

Well, I am a homeowner and new to the LawnWorld forum and boy it didn't take long to get someone pi@@ed off. I am indeed a neophite when it comes to using a ZTR and have all of 3 hours on my machine.
Pay little heed to my 'rant' beyond noting I too can express my opinion which holds this 'conversation' come training seminar really belongs elsewhere... like that Front Porch forum I was directed to.
Other than throwing model names around the thread has developed into nothing to do with Hustler, per se.
Whatever, 3 hours is no way enough experience to publish informed review.
I never had the intention to irritate KrashnKraka but strike one for me, my bad brother. Wish you could just drop by and let me extract all your experience so I could just be a happy content mower and enjoy a nice my nice yard.
Heh... I am just the one letting you know. If you are not aware of other satirical theads and posts
- made by others - directed at this thread then maybe you could consider getting out more.... over shooting the messenger? :)

Qantas | All inclusive airfares on Australia Pacific?s Best Airline

You can book me in on that link,,I have free time come March/2016.
Of course same 'rules' as LMF - no charge for onsite tutorials ... hehheh
Alternatively, you could follow my posts. I leave plenty of tips, all over :-|

Trust that helps some.

KK

/out


#241

M

mooch91

All,

One last-ditch adjustment tonight.

In an effort to mimic the setup on the Fastrak I used this weekend, I put the stock standard-lift blades back on and pitched the deck UP about 1/4 inch at the front. I set the deck at exactly the same location I measured the Fastrak.

I set at 3.25" and started mowing, about 2 hours after a thunderstorm with a heavy downpour. This was about 3 days worth of growth. Very similar to the conditions I mowed last Saturday.

Know what? No clumps. As a matter of fact, no significant clipping load either. I was watching a spray out the chute, instead of the stream I've seen. Much more like what I would expect from cutting only a few days worth of growth. And somewhat consistent with the cut on the Fastrak. There were a fair number of stragglers left behind, which is why I moved away from the standard-lifts in the first place (and something I didn't notice with the Fastrak).

Virtually no clippings on me, very little on the mower, and only a light dusting on the driveway when I got done. First "clean" cut I've had all year, single pass.

IMG_1423_zpsvdijl9bx.jpg


IMG_1422_zpscck02rnq.jpg


Did the blades make the difference?

Deck pitch?

Did I perhaps cut higher than 3.25" and not take as much off as I normally would have?

I dunno. But now I have a tough decision to make. My dealer has made me an offer to get in to the Fastrak that would result in me losing very little on the Raptor SD trade, just a very marginal depreciation for one year's use. I did enjoy the Fastrak and it definitely felt like a more stout machine, though engine was the same and other components were similar to the Raptor. I just need to decide if it's worth another $1800 beyond what I already paid, or do I take the chance keeping the Raptor.

One new thing tonight - something is wrong with the right stick on my Raptor. It's gotten very tight, particularly when engaging the parking brake...


#242

T

turboawd

might as well get the fast trak. for 1800, thats a good deal.


#243

K

kraky

$1800 IS a DEAL.....I think the dealer is sort of calling your bluff....lol!


#244

M

mooch91

Anyone know the typical price on the Fastrak (not SD)?


#245

K

kraky

I think right around $6100-6200 for the 54".


#246

G

Grass Whisper

mooch91: This is where I am at as well. The Raptor SD deck is different than the Fastrak. I am looking at the Fastrak as an upgrade and dealer will allow me to demo. Thinking about letting go of the "mulching issue" provided the cut looks good. ;)


#247

M

mooch91

mooch91: This is where I am at as well. The Raptor SD deck is different than the Fastrak. I am looking at the Fastrak as an upgrade and dealer will allow me to demo. Thinking about letting go of the "mulching issue" provided the cut looks good. ;)

Give a shot to the last tweak I made and see if/how you like the change. Pitch the deck UP about 1/4" in the front. And if you can remove the mulching kit for a while, try discharge with the standard blades. I was surprised how well it seemed to worked (best cut of the season), but it was only one cut and it would be hard to judge unless I did it a few times (still not sure if it was something about what I changed or if I was just cutting less off because of the changes).

I think, though, that I'm going to make the upgrade today. Dealer got a shipment of Fastraks and has one set aside for me.


#248

K

kraky

I'd make the upgrade for $1800 in a heartbeat!
I'm running the deck on my sd54 perfectly level and am thrilled w/both standard blades and the gators but I cant stay off my mower and haven't grown a "crop" worthy of a challenge!
If I get in a situation where there's lots a grass it wouldn't take but a couple cranks on the back adjuster to drop the rear a bit.


#249

M

mooch91

I'd make the upgrade for $1800 in a heartbeat!

It's done... proud owner of a new Fastrak. Thanks for all the help many have provided in this thread. I'll keep you posted on how it goes with the Fastrak, but I'm confident it will meet my expectations.

Lesson learned: demo any mower before you buy.


#250

K

kraky

S.O.B.!
We CANNOT just end this 249 post thread w/a new purchase! Its....its...its just wrong!
The very LEAST you can do is fill is old Raptor SD friends in about how wonderful the fastrack is!
You Do a great job on pics Mooch.....we'll watch....we'll listen and we will now be even more envious of that nice house....beautiful lawn AND the fact the rest of us are stuck in "raptorville"!
Anyhow...let us know what we're missing so we can justify it to our honeys!


#251

G

Grass Whisper

Well I too just walked in and said the Raptor SD for me. No demo and really regret that decision.
Mulching kit installed by dealer and I'm thinking, "really poor cut with clumps everywhere - did the company ever test this thing?" A bit stunned over it. My Toro super recycler mulches and leaves a great finish cut. Sure if I let the grass grow super long it's chokes and will leave clumps. However, if I cut with the toro and follow 2days later with the Raptor SD clumps everywhere. I have the Raptor SD sitting in the shop and just wish I never bought it. ;(

Now let's review something, I think that a ZTR mower
is really for guys who can cut quickly, blow driveway and sidewalk, load up and hit the next yard. It's just not for the guy who wants a manicured perfect beautiful yard. Which is completely fine. Surely not slamming any ZTR. Think my application is not realistic for my expectations.

Showed my dealer pictures of my yard and told him about what grass I had and that I mulched it weekly. I just wish he would have said, "yeah, that mower will not do that, it's a ZTR. You want ......."
School of hard knocks...

I too have a choice to upgrade to a fastrak but just not sure that it will cut without clumps. Thoughts?


#252

G

Grass Whisper

What's the easiest way to post pictures to this forum?
I would be thrilled to show you my yard. Apple product though, so I'm stumped.:rolleyes:


#253

T

turboawd

What's the easiest way to post pictures to this forum?
I would be thrilled to show you my yard. Apple product though, so I'm stumped.:rolleyes:

use the 'manage atachments' feature in the options below where you write your reply. if you cant move the pictures to your computer, then i dont know what to tell ya. lol


#254

M

mooch91

S.O.B.!
We CANNOT just end this 249 post thread w/a new purchase! Its....its...its just wrong!
The very LEAST you can do is fill is old Raptor SD friends in about how wonderful the fastrack is!
You Do a great job on pics Mooch.....we'll watch....we'll listen and we will now be even more envious of that nice house....beautiful lawn AND the fact the rest of us are stuck in "raptorville"!
Anyhow...let us know what we're missing so we can justify it to our honeys!

Fastrak is running good so far. I've cut with it twice, at approximately 4 day intervals. I've gotten in to the habit of more frequent mowings, though it's starting to dry out here in PA. Virtually no clippings left behind on either cut.

I leveled the deck precisely tonight (it was off by about 1/4" in the rear). Should be good for the next time out.

Stripes are fantastic without my home-made striping kit. I was thinking of purchasing Hustler's striping kit to give it a shot for some extra emphasis rather than finding a way to put my roller back on.

Handling is so effortless on the Fastrak as compared to the Raptor. Most of my straight passes are up or down hill and I used to be very jerky to control it on the downhill passes.

At 3 hours now, will wait until 5-6 for the first oil change.

No envy warranted; the Raptor is a great mower, just wasn't set up properly for me or didn't work out on my style lawn. It's more than fine for 95% of the people out there.

Thanks for all the help along the way.


#255

K

kraky

Your comments on the controls interest me. In the open my RSD seems to wander just a bit but not bad.
Where I feel I really don't quite have it is doing up close trimming near expensive things....like air conditioners, house siding....new plantings. I was ALOT more confident on my lawn tractor. It also seems like at times making higher speed maneuvers one of the tires can slow down and sort of lock up or slide too easily.
Again....for $4k still a hell of a machine.....but if these things are gone w/the fast track I would like to know. I'm pretty much retired and am seeing plenty of people in my small town battling health problems .....I'm thinking of doing some lawns for free to help out.....not wrecking something expensive has value for me. Do you see a fair gain in "accuracy"?


#256

M

mooch91

Your comments on the controls interest me. In the open my RSD seems to wander just a bit but not bad.
Where I feel I really don't quite have it is doing up close trimming near expensive things....like air conditioners, house siding....new plantings. I was ALOT more confident on my lawn tractor. It also seems like at times making higher speed maneuvers one of the tires can slow down and sort of lock up or slide too easily.
Again....for $4k still a hell of a machine.....but if these things are gone w/the fast track I would like to know. I'm pretty much retired and am seeing plenty of people in my small town battling health problems .....I'm thinking of doing some lawns for free to help out.....not wrecking something expensive has value for me. Do you see a fair gain in "accuracy"?

It definitely feels much more precise, both at speed and when trimming around items. The wheels are wider apart on the Fastrak, so there is less of the deck outside the wheelbase (so you'd think the tires would get in the way), but I actually find it easier to trim around all of my planting beds with the Fastrak. Both because the controls are more precise and because the deck seems to be lining up better for the trim. Hard to explain in words, you'd have to try it to understand for yourself.

The Raptor seemed to have a bit of a lag when moving the controls before the wheels would move and then it would take off suddenly, which caused a lot of the jerkiness for me. The Fastrak seems to be much smoother to match the change in the levers with the wheels.


#257

K

kraky

Thanks...will have to check out a fastrack...maybe try for a great end of year trade...lol!
I'm not a rookie at running a zero turn...probably got 100 hours running a Deere 9 yrs ago on and off at my business. Its been too long to remember how much better the deere was but it was a commercial unit and I "think" the controls were more precise. Its kinda like taking up golf after a 10 yr layoff...still need practice. Right now when it comes to zero turns I'd rate myself a "bogie golfer". Thinking w/better controls the rolling forward/backward "no divot" deal might be easier too.


#258

G

Grass Whisper

Up grading to a Fasrak myself. Its on order. Anyone know about the mulch kit? 2 or 3 baffles?


#259

K

kraky

Another question fastrack owners.....
I see you have a lift assist spring on the deck. I would think you could dial in some help not just for your footlift but wouldn't that help the deck float a heck of alot easier too?

Is this true and does it make a practical difference?


#260

M

mooch91

Another question fastrack owners.....
I see you have a lift assist spring on the deck. I would think you could dial in some help not just for your footlift but wouldn't that help the deck float a heck of alot easier too?

Is this true and does it make a practical difference?

I can tell you it definitely adds an element of complexity to leveling the deck - have to disconnect it to effectively complete the leveling operation.

Not sure about the benefit to deck float. Nothing "feels" different when I mow - what would I be looking for?


#261

K

kraky

When I sold Deere lawn tractors alot of them had a spring. We'd always reach down and show the customer we could float the deck up off the showroom floor w/just one or two fingers.
On the lawn tractors we told people to find the cutting height they liked...then set the wheels 1/4-1/2" off the ground....in combo w/the lift spring and wheels the deck could lift itself much easier and follow ground contours w/o beating all the wheels and lift linkages to heck.
I can tell on my raptor SD when in my road ditch that there's alot of pressure on the wheels sometimes.
As a matter of fact the former owner had the mountings pretty tweaked. Those wheels go sideways on a zero turn.....any float lift on the heavy Fab deck SHOULD be a very good thing.


#262

G

Grass Whisper

Mooch91: Did you get the mulch Kit with your fastrak?


#263

M

mko1024

New guy here. I read this entire post with some amusement. You guys have some high standards. Compared to my old mower, my yard looks awesome.

Why no love for blowing the clippings into the uncut grass? I had to do that with my old tractor. I've continued to do that with the new machine out of habit. No worries about clumps of cut grass if you hit them twice.


#264

G

Grass Whisper

:smile:Upgraded to new Fastrak from Raptor SD. Quite different mower all together. Mulch kit installed by dealer which does indeed have 3 baffles to isolate each blade. Have yet to test d/t rain..


#265

K

kraky

'Usually" if your cutting often enough to get a good mulch job you probably wouldn't have seen much clippings (if any) laying after side discharging under the same conditions. But I understand not wanting to blow residue into gardens, driveways, house siding etc.
I ordered just the mulch cover from my dealer instead of the complete kit. Maybe not smart...complete kit is $160 vrs steel cover at $60. Just didn't want to fool w/install...take out...install etc as our springs are too wet to mulch.
Hoping to use it for fall leaf grinding. Plan on pregrinding w/gator blades and using it as a final pass....not sure how it will do but have wasted $60 more foolishly if it bombs.

Very interested in more fastrack reports....its on my dream list...!


#266

G

Grass Whisper

Makes perfect sense Kraky, my thoughts were with the deeper deck and mulching. My next step is to remove the mulch kit and side discharge. I agree with you on side discharge though.

One thing I can say is the trans. are a bit smoother as it has zt3100 vs. the raptors zt2800. Not that there is a thing wrong with either. Another difference is the tires are not as wide as the Raptor54. But it's 200 lbs. heavier! Not including my fat *****! :laughing:


#267

B

bigdaddyr

Makes perfect sense Kraky, my thoughts were with the deeper deck and mulching. My next step is to remove the mulch kit and side discharge. I agree with you on side discharge though.

One thing I can say is the trans. are a bit smoother as it has zt3100 vs. the raptors zt2800. Not that there is a thing wrong with either. Another difference is the tires are not as wide as the Raptor54. But it's 200 lbs. heavier! Not including my fat *****! :laughing:

Watching these comparisons closely. Did the extra 200lbs help with traction on steep hills? Do the upgraded zt-3100's make going down a steep hill any smoother without loosing control?

Since it sounds like your Raptors were fairly new did your dealers work out a good trade? I'm thinking about talking to the dealer I bought mine from and financing the difference if it seems worth it.


#268

G

Grass Whisper

Well I traded my Raptor SD for a Fastrak. I purchased the Raptor SD, the mulch kit, upgraded the seat, (to the 60 inch nice seat ) and ordered the bag catcher that I never picked up. So for me, it was an additional $1475 difference but credited the value of what I had spent. Also, I included the mulch kit on the Fastrak.

I was happy for the upgrade. I did put 3 hours on the Rator at the trade. Dealer ordered the Fastrak for me.

To answer your question my yard is dead flat. I am pleased with the mulch performance of the new mower. It is 200lbs or so heaiver. I went with the 54 inch d/t the drive tire size. Just a blast to mow..:smile:


#269

K

kraky

Man...another really good deal. Around here on a outright no trade deal the spread between a SD raptor and fastrack is $2000. I'd trade my used SD for a new fastrack in a heartbeat for 2 grand....you guys are getting treated WELL!


#270

B

bigdaddyr

Man...another really good deal. Around here on a outright no trade deal the spread between a SD raptor and fastrack is $2000. I'd trade my used SD for a new fastrack in a heartbeat for 2 grand....you guys are getting treated WELL!

See if anyone around you has the 2014 Fastrak SD. I got mine for a $2400 spread and feel pretty good about it. Has some of the more commercial features like FX Kawasaki engine and chain hung deck. Loving it.


#271

G

Grass Whisper

My dealer has a 2014 fastrak sitting on his floor. I think he would be motivated to move it. I didn't consider it d/t it having the same deck thickness as the Raptor (4.5 inch ) deck. The 2015 has a 5 inch deck and is not chain hung. Not a concern for me at all. Homeowner after all and take good care of my equipment. I would think that a chain hung deck is for more commercial application.:smile:


#272

B

bigdaddyr

My dealer has a 2014 fastrak sitting on his floor. I think he would be motivated to move it. I didn't consider it d/t it having the same deck thickness as the Raptor (4.5 inch ) deck. The 2015 has a 5 inch deck and is not chain hung. Not a concern for me at all. Homeowner after all and take good care of my equipment. I would think that a chain hung deck is for more commercial application.:smile:

I wanted the chain hung deck as I do mow for customers and like my lot they have some hills and split rail fences etc. Take a little shot with the chain hung deck and not a problem so much, take one with the Raptor SD deck or the ones mounted like the 2015 Fastrak and you'll be pulling off the deck hanging hardware and using a vice and rubber mallet to straighten it. Don't ask how I know. LOL. THE 4.5" deck layed down a beautiful cut for me so I have a feeling that the extra .5" probably only matters if your taking off a few inches which under normal cutting shouldn't be the case. Can't wait until I can upload pics.

If you are only mowing your place it doesn't matter so much like you said. If you ever have to trailer it to help a friend or family member and you have to do a strange yard it might make a difference.

I want the cool new seat in mine though. The 2014 seat is better than what the Raptor SD came with but not as nice as the 2015 Fastrak seat. I may eventually see what one goes for.


#273

G

Grass Whisper

My seat upgrade from the vinyl to upholstery that come on the raptor SD 60 inch cost an additional $200. That seat was really nice. I think that it's worth the extra cost because it has a direct result on the overall experience of mowing. Something that brings me joy. Before everyone calls me nuts, I'm a homeowner and I just enjoy my yard. So consider that it's never a chore for me and it's a place that I can sort out all the crap that happened at work or stress in my life. Having a Fastrak then is just part of the process of enjoyment when I mow my yard. :smile:


#274

K

kraky

Nice Mower= Therapy Machine!

At least for me also. I even like snowblowing in the winter.....well....at least the first month or two....lol!


#275

PVHIII

PVHIII

It's done... proud owner of a new Fastrak. Thanks for all the help many have provided in this thread. I'll keep you posted on how it goes with the Fastrak, but I'm confident it will meet my expectations.

Lesson learned: demo any mower before you buy.
I have to say this at least once..."Told ya"! ;-)


#276

PVHIII

PVHIII

S.O.B.!
We CANNOT just end this 249 post thread w/a new purchase! Its....its...its just wrong!
The very LEAST you can do is fill is old Raptor SD friends in about how wonderful the fastrack is!
You Do a great job on pics Mooch.....we'll watch....we'll listen and we will now be even more envious of that nice house....beautiful lawn AND the fact the rest of us are stuck in "raptorville"!
Anyhow...let us know what we're missing so we can justify it to our honeys!

Lol @ " stuck in Raptorville"


#277

PVHIII

PVHIII

Well I too just walked in and said the Raptor SD for me. No demo and really regret that decision.
Mulching kit installed by dealer and I'm thinking, "really poor cut with clumps everywhere - did the company ever test this thing?" A bit stunned over it. My Toro super recycler mulches and leaves a great finish cut. Sure if I let the grass grow super long it's chokes and will leave clumps. However, if I cut with the toro and follow 2days later with the Raptor SD clumps everywhere. I have the Raptor SD sitting in the shop and just wish I never bought it. ;(

Now let's review something, I think that a ZTR mower
is really for guys who can cut quickly, blow driveway and sidewalk, load up and hit the next yard. It's just not for the guy who wants a manicured perfect beautiful yard. Which is completely fine. Surely not slamming any ZTR. Think my application is not realistic for my expectations.

Showed my dealer pictures of my yard and told him about what grass I had and that I mulched it weekly. I just wish he would have said, "yeah, that mower will not do that, it's a ZTR. You want ......."
School of hard knocks...

I too have a choice to upgrade to a fastrak but just not sure that it will cut without clumps. Thoughts?

It will... Guaranteed!


#278

PVHIII

PVHIII

Well I too just walked in and said the Raptor SD for me. No demo and really regret that decision.
Mulching kit installed by dealer and I'm thinking, "really poor cut with clumps everywhere - did the company ever test this thing?" A bit stunned over it. My Toro super recycler mulches and leaves a great finish cut. Sure if I let the grass grow super long it's chokes and will leave clumps. However, if I cut with the toro and follow 2days later with the Raptor SD clumps everywhere. I have the Raptor SD sitting in the shop and just wish I never bought it. ;(

Now let's review something, I think that a ZTR mower
is really for guys who can cut quickly, blow driveway and sidewalk, load up and hit the next yard. It's just not for the guy who wants a manicured perfect beautiful yard. Which is completely fine. Surely not slamming any ZTR. Think my application is not realistic for my expectations.

Showed my dealer pictures of my yard and told him about what grass I had and that I mulched it weekly. I just wish he would have said, "yeah, that mower will not do that, it's a ZTR. You want ......."
School of hard knocks...

I too have a choice to upgrade to a fastrak but just not sure that it will cut without clumps. Thoughts?
One important thing to consider is the Blade Tip Speed is much faster on the Fast Track.


#279

B

bigdaddyr

It will... Guaranteed!



Clumps disappeared with trading my Raptor SD in for the Fastrak SD. Leaves a great cut. Love it.

image.jpgimage.jpg

27155d1440434804-raptor-sd-cut-quality-any-recommendations-image-jpg


27156d1440434804-raptor-sd-cut-quality-any-recommendations-image-jpg


#280

PVHIII

PVHIII

Clumps disappeared with trading my Raptor SD in for the Fastrak SD. Leaves a great cut. Love it.

View attachment 27155View attachment 27156

27155d1440434804-raptor-sd-cut-quality-any-recommendations-image-jpg


27156d1440434804-raptor-sd-cut-quality-any-recommendations-image-jpg

Congrats on the new mower and that's a beautiful yard you have there..I added Flex Forks to mine and a set of Gator Blades...improved upon what is already a great machine.... enjoy that thing I sure do mine as I'm about to go saddle up now... Lol


#281

T

turboawd

One important thing to consider is the Blade Tip Speed is much faster on the Fast Track.

the blade speed is the same on the raptor sd and fastrak and fastrak sd. the standard raptor is a little bit slower.

raptor sd:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,900 fpm
60": 18,400 fpm

fastrak:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,910 fpm
60": 18,410 fpm


#282

PVHIII

PVHIII

the blade speed is the same on the raptor sd and fastrak and fastrak sd. the standard raptor is a little bit slower.

raptor sd:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,900 fpm
60": 18,400 fpm

fastrak:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,910 fpm
60": 18,410 fpm
I thought about that right after I made that post...I knew the standard Raptor was roughly 16.000..I stand corrected.


#283

T

turboawd

I thought about that right after I made that post...I knew the standard Raptor was roughly 16.000..I stand corrected.

since the two machines use the same blades and have the same tip speed, it makes you wonder how much the design of the rest of the deck effects the cut performance.


#284

K

kraky

I think w/all that's going on under a deck even subtle differences make big changes. A little lip here...a toe bar discharge there...big changes.
I got a little lesson this weekend on my sd54 w/gator blades. On my lawn which is weed free I get no under deck build up. After finishing my lawn I helped my neighbor who's mower is in the shop. He has lots of leafy weeds. I could hear the deck getting louder and louder as I mowed. By the time I was done I had to scrape out alot of build up. Guessing the gator blades hammering the watery leafy stuff turned it into glue!
Kinda made me glad I spend a little money on the tru-green applications!


#285

B

bigdaddyr

the blade speed is the same on the raptor sd and fastrak and fastrak sd. the standard raptor is a little bit slower.

raptor sd:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,900 fpm
60": 18,400 fpm

fastrak:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,910 fpm
60": 18,410 fpm

Blade tip speed is the same. Cut is way different. The photos I posted a few posts ago are without any kind of stripe kit. Not sure what the difference is. The blade measurements may be the same, but are the blades?

I think some of it may have to do with the discharge shape opening of the deck. The raptor SD has a top discharge cutout in it whereas I don't think the deck does for the Fastrak SD. I found this out when trying to find out about getting a Quick chute for the Raptor SD. Was told they didn't make one because of the top discharge.

How the grass hits the deflector makes a big difference in the displacement of it. Also I feel like my clippings come out much smaller on the Fastrak than did on my Raptor SD.

Also I did notice grass would build up on the Raptor SD and do not see that on the Fastrak SD. Part may be dryer cutting right now but I think the deck must have better flow.


#286

B

bigdaddyr

Congrats on the new mower and that's a beautiful yard you have there..I added Flex Forks to mine and a set of Gator Blades...improved upon what is already a great machine.... enjoy that thing I sure do mine as I'm about to go saddle up now... Lol

Thanks for the comments on the yard. It's the best it's ever looked. Only thing I've done right is not mow to low. No seeding, fertilizing or anything else yet. I will be working to try to get it better.

I enjoy the heck out of the machine. Mows so fast I'm done before I'm ready so now I have to start the lawn care business I've been pondering for years. :cool:

I also want to build a stripe kit from the tutorial on here.


#287

PVHIII

PVHIII

I think w/all that's going on under a deck even subtle differences make big changes. A little lip here...a toe bar discharge there...big changes.
I got a little lesson this weekend on my sd54 w/gator blades. On my lawn which is weed free I get no under deck build up. After finishing my lawn I helped my neighbor who's mower is in the shop. He has lots of leafy weeds. I could hear the deck getting louder and louder as I mowed. By the time I was done I had to scrape out alot of build up. Guessing the gator blades hammering the watery leafy stuff turned it into glue!
Kinda made me glad I spend a little money on the tru-green applications!
I totally agree about subtle changes to the deck have drastic consequences when it comes to deck performance/ buildup ext...and I think the biggest problem with these Raptors and Raptor SD's is the deck is just to Shallow...I can't imagine what it would be like trying to mulch with one....JMO.


#288

5

577jersey

My 54 cuts pretty darn good so far,,you may want to check that your deck is level,,mine does leave a scragler here and there and a small wind row in high wet weedy stuff on first cut with stock blades,I did order some high-lift blades to see if that helps.
The discharge chute opening on the deck is a little too small for this deck,I am going to get out my angle grinder first thing when this warranty runs out and make it look like a true commercial deck opening...lol :)


#289

R

retfr8flyr

I have the SD 48 with the mulch kit on it and I think it does a great job. I never tried it without the kit, so I can't make a comparison but I am very happy with the way it does my yard. The only thing I have noticed is the grass has some tearing at the cut line, so I am going to pull the blades and sharpen them, I don't think new blades come very sharp and these were installed by my dealer, so I know they are just factory sharp.


#290

5

577jersey

Yeah sometimes you have to wait till the paint wears off the blade then they cut a little better when new...I do mine with a 40 grit flap wheel on an angle grinder,,been doing it for 28 years that way and they come out razor sharp!!


#291

C

clubairth

Correct that's why Hustler came out with a modification kit to fix the discharge problems. I did it to mine and it is a big improvement!

Here is the kit;
Discharge Chute-Kit.jpg

Here is how I cut the cut the deck opening bigger;

Cut Out Grass Chute.jpg

Here is the kit installed on my SD54;

Discharge Chute-Cover Open.jpg

Kit part # 123352

Attached is the factory bulletin #603 explaining how to do the mod.
.
.
.

Attachments


  • Open Deck Conversion-#603.pdf
    404.5 KB · Views: 26


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