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Craftsman 917.287462. When the customer brought this too me, he said the PTO didn't work. So, I looked and found that the retainer that holds it in place, had popped out of the hole in the PTO. So I rotated it, back around, and put it back right. Cranked it up, pulled the PTO switch, and it popped out again.

Anyone know of a solution to this problem? The keeper, like I said, fits in the hole. And stick up about 1/8th to 1/4. Can I cut notch in the retainer? Sears only sells the whole kit, including the PTO. This PTO is fine. Just need to hold it in place.

Update: When I removed the retainer, it's a little grooved. But I noticed something else, when putting it back in. Before the bolt tightens the retainer, the retainer actually inserts about 1" into the PTO hole. But the more I tighten on it, the further it stills slips out of the hole. By the time the bolt is tightened snug, there's only about 1/8" sticking through the hole.

And by hand, I can actually rotate the PTO until the retainer slips out.

Here's a pic of the Anti-Rotation Bracket.

That is a nice new one from Jcks web site.
Closely compare it to yours and you will find yours has bent.
The bracket either needs some TLC from a FBH or to be replaced the bracket is a stand alone item from almost any mower parts supplier.
The constant hammering from use bends them in the direction of rotation so bend it back.
When I do one I take the clutch off and use some pipe to bend it with a slightly foreward rake so when the clutch pushes against it the force pushes the anchor harder into the bottom of the chassis so it is sort of self locking.

bertsmobile1 said:

That is a nice new one from Jcks web site.
Closely compare it to yours and you will find yours has bent.
The bracket either needs some TLC from a FBH or to be replaced the bracket is a stand alone item from almost any mower parts supplier.
The constant hammering from use bends them in the direction of rotation so bend it back.
When I do one I take the clutch off and use some pipe to bend it with a slightly foreward rake so when the clutch pushes against it the force pushes the anchor harder into the bottom of the chassis so it is sort of self locking.

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Well, a lot has changed since my last post. I won't go into all of it, but the PTO problem (with the bracket) I thought I'd fixed. Well, I got it bent into a position that would hold the PTO when it's engaged. But, it kills the engine. Bogs it down within a second. When you engage the PTO, it'll just barely turn.

So, I'm guessing it's froze up? Any way to unfreeze it? It's been sitting for a while.

PTO adjustment. When I adjust this one down to .018, it won't hardly turn at all. Sounds like metal to metal. When I back off a little more, it turns freely.

All of this while on the bench, not on the mower.

Am I doing something wrong? Or is it just a bad PTO?

Every clutch is different. You need to adjust the air gap according to the manufacturer. First with no power to the unit it should spin freely. If not adjust gap till it does. With the power to the unit, it should not spin freely. If it does and you have adjusted air gap without power to it then clutch may be bad. Broken part internally. When you apply power, look at the unit all the way around and see if it came together the same way all the way around. I have found a small stone stuck inside one before that made it not work very well.

BlazNT said:

Every clutch is different. You need to adjust the air gap according to the manufacturer. First with no power to the unit it should spin freely. If not adjust gap till it does. With the power to the unit, it should not spin freely. If it does and you have adjusted air gap without power to it then clutch may be bad. Broken part internally. When you apply power, look at the unit all the way around and see if it came together the same way all the way around. I have found a small stone stuck inside one before that made it not work very well.

Click to expand...

Worked like a charm man. Thanks. Luckily this model was a tensioner lever that easy to push with your foot, to loosen the belt. Weird thing though. after I adjusted the air gap with the feeler gauge, It was as I described earlier. Pretty tight without the belt attached. After I ran it like that for maybe 10 minutes, the air gap had changed a lot. But was still tight. So, with little adjustments on the 3 points, it wasn't rubbing anything.
So, I'm wondering, are feeler gauges even necessary on these? Because the biggest one I had (.2???) was not even close to touching.

To work like they are suposed to yes you need a feeler gauge. But as we all know trial-and-error sometimes it's the best way to get it to work.

BlazNT said:

To work like they are suposed to yes you need a feeler gauge. But as we all know trial-and-error sometimes it's the best way to get it to work.

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I think I'd rather Push/Pull an ol fashioned lever than an electrical "button" .. :laughing:..:laughing:

Boobala said:

I think I'd rather Push/Pull an ol fashioned lever than an electrical "button" .. :laughing:..:laughing:

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So would most customers. the cable, which is the usual culprit, is what, about $30? A PTO is usually closer to $200 or $300 (or more). And replacing a cable is maybe 20 minutes. About the same as a PTO.

If the PTO actually turned faster than the engine, that would be well worth the money. But since it turns the same, then I can see no real reason for a PTO on a lawn mower.