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Hi Folks,

I have an older Poulan 300EX (model # PB19546LT) riding mower that I am getting up and usable. I just took the rear wheels off to install inner tubes and I noticed oil on both the drive shafts. So, I figure the output seals are probably leaking. But, in the mean time (before replacing them), is there a way to get more fluid in the rear end of this mower. If yes, where, how, much should be in there and what type of oil? Is there any How To articles for this?

Thanks in advance!

Burwell, New Orleans

Just because you don’t get an answer to a post as fast as you would like, please don’t start another thread. It will only get confusing for everyone.

http://www.poulanpro.com/us/support/owners-manuals/

locate year model & search

We need the model number of the rear end to get you all the info you need.

BlazNT said:

We need the model number of the rear end to get you all the info you need.

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Thanks - Here is what I found:
Upper left side of the tag: 402724

Right side, bottom of of the tag: SN4WX 5144408

I think those are the numbers - kinda hard to read.

Does that line up with a rear end from a tractor made in 2008 (I think)?

THanks again for the help.

Foote/dana transaxle D6800 Is your model. I can not find a manual for it. Parts at this web site and others.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/d6800/0401/1510000.html

BlazNT said:

Foote/dana transaxle D6800 Is your model. I can not find a manual for it. Parts at this web site and others.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/d6800/0401/1510000.html

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Thanks for the help BlazNT. I will take the rear cover off the mower and see if I find a way to get some oil in it. I found one video this the transaxle apart, but that's about all the information out there. I'll keep digging.

Thanks.

bjordan said:

Thanks for the help BlazNT. I will take the rear cover off the mower and see if I find a way to get some oil in it. I found one video this the transaxle apart, but that's about all the information out there. I'll keep digging.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

If you look at the parts break down I sent you a link for you will find part number 3 is a plug for filling in the fluid. I do not know what goes inside.

BlazNT said:

If you look at the parts break down I sent you a link for you will find part number 3 is a plug for filling in the fluid. I do not know what goes inside.

Click to expand...

Thanks - I hadn't dug into the picture yet - first cup of coffee so far this morning!

BlazNT said:

Foote/dana transaxle D6800 Is your model. I can not find a manual for it. Parts at this web site and others.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/d6800/0401/1510000.html

Click to expand...

If anyone is ever looking for what fluid this transaxle takes, Per Mike (contact info below), use 8-10oz of 80w-90 gear oil for it.

Mike
M&D Mower & Appliance
https://www.m-and-d.com

So, I have an update:

A bit of a back story first: 2 weeks ago, I used this mower for the first time and cut grass with it for a couple of hours. It ran Ok. Next morning, it was hydro locked. So, brought the mower home and ordered a carburetor for it.

While I waited for it to come in, I added fluid to the Foote/dana transaxle D6800 with 80w/90. Today, I installed the new carb, mower fired right up and ran well. However, when I put it in gear, there is zero movement (well, it did move maybe 4" once). I did not touch any belts or make any adjustments to them. All I did was remove the rubber plug from the transaxle and add fluid. The mower was cutting grass and driving fine when I shut it down 2 weeks ago. The drive belt seems to be loose to me, but not sure how much play it should have in it. There are not any strange noises coming from the transaxle or the mower. While the mower is running, I can change gears with the clutch out (not sure if that is an issue or not).

Where should I start? Belt or did I add too much fluid to the transaxle or something else entirely?

Thanks again for the help!

Put the mower in the highest gear then turn the input shaft by hand ( power drill etc etc ).
You should have a manual gearbox so if the mower does not ,move when the pulley turns the shift keys in the box have sheared.
If the mower only goes forward on one wheel & seems to be trying to turn around then the brake is jambed on
If the axels turn but the wheels do not then the axel key is sheared or missing ( not all use axel keys )

bertsmobile1 said:

Put the mower in the highest gear then turn the input shaft by hand ( power drill etc etc ).
You should have a manual gearbox so if the mower does not ,move when the pulley turns the shift keys in the box have sheared.
If the mower only goes forward on one wheel & seems to be trying to turn around then the brake is jambed on
If the axels turn but the wheels do not then the axel key is sheared or missing ( not all use axel keys )

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Thanks Bertsmobile1.

Here is what I found. With the rear end jacked up, when I spin a wheel, both shafts turn in opposite directions, as they should. I started the mower and with the rear end jacked up off the ground, the wheels spin fine. When I lowered the mower, no movement. With the mower on the ground, I also hear a very slight whine, coming from in front of the transaxle. Sounds like the drive belt may be slipping. I know this belt is an older belt, how old, I do not know.

Are you thinking its the drive belt? Is there some kind of slack adjustment that can be made to make the belt tighter?

Thanks in advance for all the help!

Re: Poulan 300EX Rear End Servicable? UPDATE 4/9

Mower still wont move.

Here is the latest: I replaced the drive belt with a new belt. I also replaced both idler pulleys (Flat and V-belt pulleys). With the rear end jacked up, the wheels drive fine. When the wheels are on the ground, nothing.

I may have overfilled the transaxle with 80w/90 gear oil a few weeks ago, so with the help of a friend, I tipped the mower to the side and removed some of the fluid.

I am at a loss as to what to try next. Any ideas?

Thanks a million for the help!

Check to see if the axels are turning but the wheels are not
There is a shear key in the rear axels and if one is broken or is missing you won't go anywhere.

bertsmobile1 said:

Check to see if the axels are turning but the wheels are not
There is a shear key in the rear axels and if one is broken or is missing you won't go anywhere.

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Thanks Bertsmobile1.

The shear key is on the rear axle, between the wheel hub and the axle. When the back end of the mower is off the ground, the wheels turn, but I can stop them with my hand.

bjordan said:

Thanks Bertsmobile1.

The shear key is on the rear axle, between the wheel hub and the axle. When the back end of the mower is off the ground, the wheels turn, but I can stop them with my hand.

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A bit hard without having the unit here in the shop but it is sounding like a broken shift key in the box itself.
Mower boxes are constant mech, which means every pair of gears are turning against each other all the time,
On the input shaft the gears are all fixed
On the output shaft there is a slot with a sliding key that fits into a keyway cut on the inside of the gears so only one output gear can drive the output shaft at any one time.
Changing gears while moving breaks off the head on the key so you get a light sort of drive when there is no load from the remains of the key and viscious drag from the grease.

After that the axels themselves can have a gear with a key on the other end.

We don't get that mower here so any more & I would be shooting in the dark.
All mower gearboxes ( not hydros ) work the same way so if you download the Tecumseh / peerless service manual you will get all of the information you need to pull your box apart.

bertsmobile1 said:

A bit hard without having the unit here in the shop but it is sounding like a broken shift key in the box itself.
Mower boxes are constant mech, which means every pair of gears are turning against each other all the time,
On the input shaft the gears are all fixed
On the output shaft there is a slot with a sliding key that fits into a keyway cut on the inside of the gears so only one output gear can drive the output shaft at any one time.
Changing gears while moving breaks off the head on the key so you get a light sort of drive when there is no load from the remains of the key and viscious drag from the grease.

After that the axels themselves can have a gear with a key on the other end.

We don't get that mower here so any more & I would be shooting in the dark.
All mower gearboxes ( not hydros ) work the same way so if you download the Tecumseh / peerless service manual you will get all of the information you need to pull your box apart.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bertsmobile1! I guess I will be taking the transaxle off and opening it up in the next few days. I will let the group know what I find.

Just to make sure.
Can you push the mower with both wheels on the ground.
If you can push it then the problem is in the box
If you can not push it which both wheels on the ground then the brake is still on & locking the diff.
With the wheels off the ground and you turn one, the other should move in the opposite direction but when being driven by the engine they both should turn in the same direction.
If they turn opposite direction then the brake is still locking the diff.
The brake on mowers works the same as the P position on your cars tranny
It locks the diff so the wheels can only turn in opposite directions so the vehicle can not move in either direction.

I never answer technical PM's as it subverts the whole idea of an open public forum
So this should be the schmatic of your box

View attachment Poulan 300EX.pdf
The shift keys are the parts marked 8.
The shaft # 67 has 2 slots in it and the keys slide along it to select the gears.
Note the gears marked # 83, # 49 , # 50 etc have slots in them for the keys to fit in and lock that gear to the shaft.

Also note near the bottom, the brake rotor # 36 which is fixed to the layshaft # 4
If that rotor is not turning then the brake is locked which locks the diff as mentioned in the previous post.

bertsmobile1 said:

I never answer technical PM's as it subverts the whole idea of an open public forum
So this should be the schmatic of your box

View attachment 43567
The shift keys are the parts marked 8.
The shaft # 67 has 2 slots in it and the keys slide along it to select the gears.
Note the gears marked # 83, # 49 , # 50 etc have slots in them for the keys to fit in and lock that gear to the shaft.

Also note near the bottom, the brake rotor # 36 which is fixed to the layshaft # 4
If that rotor is not turning then the brake is locked which locks the diff as mentioned in the previous post.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bert. I split the cases just now and didn't see anything broken in my very quick glance. I will take a much closer look at the #67 shaft and #8 keys. The brake rotor was spinning fine. So far, since I have gotten the case halves apart, I have run them through my parts washer and installed new output shaft seals. We'll get it going.

More to come!

Thanks again!!

bjordan said:

Thanks Bert. I split the cases just now and didn't see anything broken in my very quick glance. I will take a much closer look at the #67 shaft and #8 keys. The brake rotor was spinning fine. So far, since I have gotten the case halves apart, I have run them through my parts washer and installed new output shaft seals. We'll get it going.

More to come!

Thanks again!!

Click to expand...

Another update. I spent about 45 minutes with the transaxle and pulled the gears from the #67 shaft. The shaft, #8 keys and all the gears seem to be in really good condition. No visible wear on the shaft and keys and very minimal wear on the gears. I also looked for any broken pieces of metal in the cases, and found none. Nothing seems sheared off or broken. All-in-all, the internals look very good to me.

As I mentioned, I did get the output shaft seals replaced. What else should I look for before I put the halves back together?