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So I have a 7.25 ft-lb Gross Torque* Briggs & Stratton EXi 163cc w/ReadyStart on a toro 22" Personal pace lawnmower, here is the story:

The previous owner went over something ductile and it immediately had a major oil leak. I was then given the mower due to the assumption that it was permanently damaged. After inspecting, I realized that there was a large hole in the oil sump (due to the ductile material that was mowed over). I soon ordered a new oil sump and replaced it. I will admit that I made a potentially big mistake by not draining the oil nor the gasoline out of the mower before replacing the sump (I was not thinking smart and I am new at this stuff). So, after putting everything back together. The thing would not start (like not even sound like it was trying to start!). I let it sit for awhile due to assuming that I probably flooded the cylinders possibly (letting stuff evaporate). After sitting for months, it still didn't start up. I smelled the muffler and it smelled like fuel I took it off and cleaned it out and there was dried up sludge everywhere by the muffler, carburetor and etc. I soon realized that to increase my chances of making it start, the air filter should be replaced, along with the carburetor and spark plug. After replacing these items, it still wouldn't start (again, not even trying to even turn). So then I got to thinking that maybe I messed up the timing when I had replaced the oil sump, so I opened it back up and here I am now..I am trying to be very optimistic with this whole repair and I am hoping the engine did not get ruined when I tipped it on its side with the fluids still in it when I replaced the oil sump. I have learned a lot, however I don't know much about timing, but I was told you should line the "symbols" up on both of the gears. There was only one distinguishing mark on the green spur gear that made me think it was its "symbol" (it was like a cut out dip along the dedendum on the gear), the 'cam' or black gear symbol was presumably easy to recognize, it was just an arrow pointing in the direction of the green gear. I lined these two symbols up with each other and then immediately felt confused about the correct orientation for the white gear, that I am assuming should be somewhat perpendicular to the green spur gear?? There is also this lever that when moved, moves something by the carburetor?? I just lifted the lever up and sat it on top of this thingy on the mechanism that's connected to the white gear (sorry if its getting hard to follow)... My gut tells me I am not setting up these gears correctly and what about the lever??. Can someone PLEASE help me!?!? I have attached an image of what I am referring to. I have no idea how the mechanism that's attached to the white gear works or for that matter how it should be correctly placed.

Thanks for any help!

The white gear(governor/oil slinger) is installed correctly, but the camshaft gear(green gear) is toast and you will need a new camshaft. Also looks like the governor gear mount that slips over the camshaft bearing surface looks like it may of been dragging on the camshaft gear. I suspect with the two stripped/broken camshaft gear that the timing has also slipped.

I would also check the cam bearing surfaces in the sump and crankcase cover. There must be a reason the gear became toast.

It would wise to check the valve train too as there appears to be a binding problem.

ILENGINE said:

The white gear(governor/oil slinger) is installed correctly, but the camshaft gear(green gear) is toast and you will need a new camshaft. Also looks like the governor gear mount that slips over the camshaft bearing surface looks like it may of been dragging on the camshaft gear. I suspect with the two stripped/broken camshaft gear that the timing has also slipped.

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First off, thank you so much for your help! Okay, so I need a new cam shaft/green gear and a new governor mount?

Rivets said:

I would also check the cam bearing surfaces in the sump and crankcase cover. There must be a reason the gear became toast.

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I am new to all of this and I am a ME student but when you say cam bearings, are you referring to the bearings that I am assuming are on the bottom of the cam shaft that allows it to rotate? and what exactly am I looking for on the surfaces of the sump and crank case cover? What could it be?

StarTech said:

It would wise to check the valve train too as there appears to be a binding problem.

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What is the valve train and how do I get to it? Thank you much for your help!

I should have said bearing surface, because they are not actual bearings. The bearing surfaces I’m referring to are the holes in the crankcase and crankcase cover the the ends of the cam shaft ride in. They should be perfectly round with no wear. This manual might be of some help to you. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00

dscott32 said:

What is the valve train and how do I get to it? Thank you much for your help!

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