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Plastic tank fix

#1

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

IMG_20191105_151253.jpg
any fixes for a hairline crack in a gas tank? Plastic.
Briggs 12H802
Thought about JB Weld, but need something gasoline proof.
TIA


#2

B

bertsmobile1

Tank will be HDPE so most glues & fillers will not work
Get some HDPE filler rod and weld the crack using a brand new soldering iron tip or hot air gun.
Note the surfaces must be KLEAN with a capital K.

Hundreds of vids on tank welding but the magic word is clean.
When any clean plastic surfaces come into contact & are heated they will weld together.Down here is use plastic milk bottles and a hot air gun.
Done dozens of JD 100 series tanks.


#3

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Thanks bert!:thumbsup:


#4

7394

7394

I had a crack on my former rider. I roughed up the crack w/sandpape & did use JB Weld, & ordered a New Tank.

Well the JB Weld (Original formula) worked so well that when new tank came & I never installed it, In fact I just sold it here. That mower is still running with repaired tank on it.

Point is, in my case the JB Weld worked great. I did add a stiffening brace to mounting pads on that mower, which is what caused the crack to begin with.


#5

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

I might try JB weld first and see how it holds up.
I trust your opinion more Buddy than a few yay-hoos on youtube


#6

7394

7394

Thanks Scrubcadet. As Bert said Klean is the key.


#7

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Thanks Scrubcadet. As Bert said Klean is the key.

Clean won't do?
What if it's CClean? With two c's?:laughing:
I might run down to The Tractor supply store tomorrow and get some JB weld


#8

B

bertsmobile1

Once you put any goo on the crack it can never be welded.
If the JB does not hold then you will need to cut all of the JB out and fit a patch piece which is a lot harder than welding the crack, filing it down then covering with a piece of milk bottle.
Your tank so your decision.


#9

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Went and bought some JB weld. Says on the package "resists gasoline and most automotive chemicals"
Haven't put it on yet.

I'll either be saying "Thanks Buddy" or
"Bert...you were right":ashamed:

:laughing::laughing:


#10

7394

7394

My experience was very positive using JB Weld (Original formula), NOT the 5 minute quick stuff.


#11

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Yep, I got The original.
I had to replace the starter cup also on this engine, whenever I pulled the rope it pulled rough and jerky. Luckily I had one in my Spare Parts pile I swapped it with. Pulls smooth now.


#12

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Got it JB Welded. I Kleaned it real good to. I made sure to Kapital K Klean it
:wink:
With brake Kleen and Kompressed air. And roughed it up some with a file.
It covered the crack good and I got it built up around the area and underneath the tank seam.


#13

7394

7394

Cool, Good you roughed up the surfaced for the best bite to cling to,.

Let it thoroughly cure, (I know you will) but if it is thick, I'd give it an extra day to cure fully.

That's where mine had the crack under the tank seam. I added a brace to stiffen the mounting areas. Mine would wiggle (I found out by the crack.) But fixed that.


#14

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

How would you recommend bracing it? Since its on a Quantum, there isn't much room
It only has 4 5/16 bolts holding it to the shroud and one 3/8 bolt holding it on the block...


#15

7394

7394

Guess your tank mounts very differently than mine did. Maybe you could cut some rubber strips to mount it on. I save old inner tubes for stuff like this.


#16

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

s-l1000.jpg

Here's what the tank looks like


#17

7394

7394

I see, mounting it as you would should be all you need then, it seems well supported.


#18

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

I see, mounting it as you would should be all you need then, it seems well supported.

I guess them engineers are smart after all :laughing::laughing:


#19

7394

7394

Seems so..


#20

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

So far no leaks!
I've got the mower tore down to just the deck shell,killing the rust and gonna repaint it.


#21

7394

7394

Cool, I'm fixing to put my Z up on the wheel dolleys I do every winter. So I can move it around easy as I do my winter service, clean & wax.


#22

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Cool, I'm fixing to put my Z up on the wheel dolleys I do every winter. So I can move it around easy as I do my winter service, clean & wax.
Wax the hair off of it?:laughing::laughing:


#23

7394

7394

Wax the hair off of it?:laughing::laughing:

Yep, after thorough service & clean up, what isn't rubber or plastic gets waxed. :thumbsup: Keeps me outta too much trouble & wife stays inside.. LOL


#24

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Yep, after thorough service & clean up, what isn't rubber or plastic gets waxed. :thumbsup: Keeps me outta too much trouble & wife stays inside.. LOL

:laughing:


#25

sgkent

sgkent

just went thru this on an edger that was 20 - 25 years old. The replacement tank was about $25. Hardly worth messing fixing the old one. Where there is one crack there will be more coming if you don't have them already.


#26

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

I went ahead and coated the whole seam in JB weld.


#27

sgkent

sgkent

seems like every time I fix something like that with JB weld it fails somewhere else and then I kick myself because the part goes NLA in the meantime. I figure the original tank lasted 20 years, I am 68 and will be lucky if I last as long as the replacement.


#28

7394

7394

I went ahead and coated the whole seam in JB weld.

:thumbsup:


#29

sgkent

sgkent

my experience was really good replacing the tank with a new one. There were more stress cracks than I realized in the old one.


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