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I have a B&S 26hp, model 44P777 type 0124 G1. It is about 5-6 years old. I have always had trouble with it turning over slowly. I have almost always had to "bump" the key a couple times to get the engine to turn over. Sometimes, once I got it to turn over, I would crank it for 20-30 seconds before it would fire up. I have had to replace the starter selanoid a few times. This year I figured out that it was the valves not gapped correctly. Re-gapped the valves and it turns over much easier. It will only turn over a handful of times before the battery gets too weak to turn it over. Had the battery tested and it's fine. Now, it won't start unless I spray some carb cleaner in breather. Then, it starts right up and runs perfectly. I have new air filter, new fuel filter, new plugs and new gas. The battery is about 1-1.5 years old. I'm leaning towards the starter being worn out and weak but wanted to see if anyone would have some other suggestions before I spend the $100 on a new starter. Thanks in advance!

Choke not closing all the way,

it could be the starter is getting weak and not hard to test. sometimes they just need new bushings and brushes. if it is the starter. see if ya have any places around that rebuilds starters. they are getting lesser and lesser but theres still people that rebuild them. was the battery load tested with a full charge?
PLEASE don't use carb cleaner or starting fluid to start it. over time it will cause wear on internal parts.
also inspect the gear on the starter.

Played with choke and nothing made it any better. Battery was load tested with a full charge. Only get about 20-30 seconds of crank time before having to boost it. I can smell gas while it is trying to crank so I can't help but think it is getting fuel. Would the fuel solenoid be an issue if it runs fine once started? The only thing left I can think of is starter and carb. Is testing the starter something that can be done at home or do I need to bring it somewhere? Is it possible it's the carb since it won't start but will run great once starting? Doesn't sound like it to me, but not so sure.

Last year, I was able to jump the mower off with my four wheeler and it would crank right up. Like the battery wasn't strong enough and need a little extra. Maybe I wore the starter out? Thanks again for the replies!

Does the engine spin 1 revolution then Han, and again and so on? Like a hard spot in each revolution? I'm wondering if the cam is worn and he decompression to it is slowing the engine, stifling fire off. Also, because the starter is fighting the compression, the battery would get weak.

MRCo., that's what it was doing before I adjusted the valves. Now, it pretty much turns over pretty easy, but for only short spurts before battery quickly drains. I'm wondering if the starter has gotten too weak to spin fast enough to start; but, then again, it starts right up with the same slow spin if I shoot a small burst of carb cleaner in it. I don't know, it's getting really frustrating. I can usually figure things out but this has gotten me stumped so far.

have ya cleaned all terminals??check the ends of cables/wires for corrosion,too. internal corrosion in the positive cable can cause an amp loss to the starter,too.. could be worn brushes in the starter. could it possibly be not enough CCA in the battery?

I have checked all terminals. I've taken the battery out enough times and replaced the solenoid enough times, they can't help but be clean. The battery is 300 CCA. I'll have to check the manual but I think that is what it calls for. Played with it a little today and bypassed solenoid and that didn't change the way it's acting. While looking at it, I saw and was reminded of the last time the solenoid went out. I was so determined to cut that day, the solenoid started smoking and melted part of the cover of the terminal of the hot wire going to starter. Is there a way to test starter at home? I just can't understand why even with it turning over slowly, why it starts when I spray carb cleaner but only then. Very frustrating. Thanks for the help!

how to explain that( I should prolly get some caffeine in me 1st this morning). carb cleaner burns a lot easier that gas, so it ignites easier than regular gas. you would probably get the same results with high octane racing gas, but it would not be good for the engine.
one thing I forget is that a growler is needed to test the armature, so you may want to look in your yellow pages and see if you have some place around that rebuilds starters and give em a call and see how much it would cost to rebuild it. it may save some $$ and headaches for ya.

either that or drive it up to my shop and id help.
or spent the $100 for a new starter.

List of things done so far this season:
1: New plugs
2: Adjusted valve gap to .005
3: New fuel pump
4: New air filter
5: New Starter
6: New battery 340 CCA
7: New Solenoid end of last season
8: New gas, no ethonal
Still won't start unless I shoot some carb cleaner in air intake. Any other place to look? About ready to load up and let someone else figure it out. Thanks so far for all the help.

Have you cleaned the carb?

That I guess is my next step. I checked the gap on armeture(sp) and it was fine. Put a teaspoon of gas in each plug and it fired right up. I guess that just leaves the carb. Still has me miffed at why it won't start but will run perfectly once running. Oh well, guess I don't need to understand everything. Thanks!

msdeerhunter said:

That I guess is my next step. I checked the gap on armeture(sp) and it was fine. Put a teaspoon of gas in each plug and it fired right up. I guess that just leaves the carb. Still has me miffed at why it won't start but will run perfectly once running. Oh well, guess I don't need to understand everything. Thanks!

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All those little tubes in the carbs can be finnicky I say give cleaning it real good a shot. Or if your up to investing I'm either a rebuild or new carb that's always good to. Cleaning is free however.