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after searching down the issue (Battery appearing to be dead) here thinking it was a diode or the charging system but now i noticed something new when i attempt to start the mower the power wire from the battery to the solenoid the red wire gets very hot to the point that the coating on the wire seems to soften up so i am thinking maybe the starter is pulling to much power. even when the battery is full charged you have to hold the key for a second before it turns over like 1-2 seconds then it spins once it starts spinning it spins smoothly till it starts. so should i get the starter checked out and if so where would i do that local lawn mower shop i would guess. the battery has to be fully charged to spin it over if i charge it to 50% it will like half spin then half spin again .

ok i was reading that maybe the valves need to be adjusted this video is like what mine is doing.

Starting Problems 14.5hp OHV Briggs & Stratton - Help! - YouTube

dude said he fixed it by adjusting the valves

Give it a try, can't hurt :thumbsup:

okiepc said:

Give it a try, can't hurt :thumbsup:

Click to expand...

some videos say intake at 4 and exhaust at 5 where can i get the specs for my engine ?

Yes it will likely be the valves... the wiring will get toasty if the starter can Not turn the engine.
These 2 video clips from youtube covering just that problem, second one is the adjustment...
( HOW TO ADJUST VALVES) FIX HARD TO START Lawn Tractor with OHV Briggs Engine- MUST SEE- Part 1/2 - YouTube
( HOW TO ADJUST VALVES) FIX HARD TO START Lawn Tractor with OHV Briggs Engine- MUST SEE- Part 2/2 - YouTube
:smile:KennyV

ok cool last video said .004 so ill set them there and let yall know how it goes.

Ok valves adjusted and she starts up like a champ no more 2 or 3 second delays motor is spinning the second you turn the key. but hit a snag while taking off the valve cover gasket 3 bolts came off like they had butter on them the 4th one was so tight i sprayed it with pb break and let it set then tryed again it was turning but slowly then it broke off . :frown: see pic below now i put it all back together after adjusting the valves and ran it for a few minutes with the others snug and it didnt leak any oil but i dont like it at all so what is the best way to fix this as in get the old bolt out and put a new one in its place ? thanks so much for the help i have already recieved.

ok SO she is starting up and running great now valves must be right or darn close. Anyone have the specs on those 10mm bolts ? ill be going by advance auto in the am to get my easy out and remove the broke bolt i wanted to pick up another one while i was there to replace the broke one so does anyone know like 10 x 1.5 or anything that would would help me get the right size. I guess i could just take one of the others with me but ive always had more luck with specs when buying at advance. thanks in advance.

"easy Out" is the Wrong Name for those tools...
Good Luck.. BUT if it is Not Leaking, I would leave it alone... put some PB blaster in it occationally..
Get yourself a Left Hand Twist drill bit... use that to drill the pilot hole in the broken bolt, Many times a Left hand drill will work better than an 'easy out'... :smile:KennyV

i was thinking of drilling all the way through it with a 1/4 inch bit and putting a bolt and nut on it since it seems to be open on the end and there is room to do it. As hard as it was to turn before it broke i was worried about the chance of getting it out. What you think about drilling straight through and using a smaller bolt/nut with a washer.

If you have the clearance to allow it... that should work fine. :smile:KennyV

teachme said:

i was thinking of drilling all the way through it with a 1/4 inch bit and putting a bolt and nut on it since it seems to be open on the end and there is room to do it. As hard as it was to turn before it broke i was worried about the chance of getting it out. What you think about drilling straight through and using a smaller bolt/nut with a washer.

Click to expand...

good idea, give it a try:thumbsup:

Ok drilled right through the bolt no problem. I got a few questions about the valve adjusting as it wouldnt start this morning .
1. do you do it 1/4 inch past tdc or at tdc
2. some videos online recommend adjusting the exhaust valve when the intake valve is all the way down to be sure its releasing the pressure and some say do them both together what do you guys think.
3. not really a question but acknowledgement on my part i may have damaged or drained the battery before i got the valves adjusted so i am charging it until the charger says 100% then ill grab some battery for the volt meter and see if i got 14,5 volts while she is running if not ill get a new alternator. mainly need advice on questions 1 and 2 they seem to be a matter of opinion and yalls opinions matter to me anyways.

as always thanks in advance for any help you may provide.

A tip to keep you sane. Free hand drilling is prone to misalignment (off plumb). That can result in bad outcome. Think how to keep your drill motor (bit) PERPENDICULAR when drilling . Try using small "try squares," even 90 degree braketry and set them up if poss for ref as you drill. Once the hole is off plumb you cannot straighten it. The suggestion of a left hand drill is good.(H-Frt sells a 4 pak). Center punch carefully first. Go small diameter to start. Sometimes the drilling will loosen and back the broken shank out. Use a variable speed drill motor and go slow.

Edit: I think I've seen hand drills with levels built in-very handy. Also there used to be a "drill jig" set from H=Frt with various sized drill bushes. This jig sits on the drill surface @ 90 deg and controls walking of bit.

this video supports the adjusting the valves separately. what you guys think about that

Lawn Mower Repair Valve Adjustment - YouTube

The video is good and reminds me that there are different set ups for valve adjustments, depending upon make. The good part of this is to show the use of the feeler gauge to newbies although you cannot feel the drag of the feeler gauge he feels, that will come with practice. I suggest you always check your clearance after tightening. Even with the feeler gauge "trapped" as in the video it is common that the final lock down will reduce the clearance you have chosen. This is not good , esp on exhaust valves. Patience. This gentleman provides a real service. I think he may be the one who showed the poor man's trimmer voltage tester, diy this forum.

Ok gonna go get my volt meter today started fine yesterday and this morning but wouldnt start after i mowed for like an hour and let it set for 20-30 minutes not sure if the battery is charging or not. i had loaned out my volt meter going to pick it up today. would there be any way the valves could be getting out of adjustment while its running?

teach, Wouldn't hurt to check 'em. Especially since that was your first try?

I snugged em up good and ran fine yesterday and today.

is it normal for them to change?

ok so i charged the battery while i was out getting my volt meter and when i came back after charger was on the battery it showed 14 volts. once i removed the charger the battery started dropping normal i figure since its a 12 volt battery. mower started right up while it was running i metered it and it was increasing again. so mower is charging it ran it a few minutes cut it off tried to start again and while it was trying to turn over the battery dropped to 9 volts then once i released the key it went back to 12. i am thinking i have a bad battery. what you guys think. also this battery is only 220 cold cranking amps and 275 normal i heard to get 300-350 for this type engine 14.5 ohv briggs.

Plus 1 for Kenny, if it was not leaking I would use some good Liquid Gasket and let 3 Bolts do the Job, drilling a straight hole through that small bolt might be tuff, But good Luck if you take it on, Hope all turnes out OK

Rat

teach, You have performed the poor man's load test. When a sufficient load is placed on a battery the rated voltage should hold. If you had a bat hydrometer you would probably see bad cells. The crank spec on the battery is not that significant. Your single should crank easily with the 225 A rating. Get a bat hydrometer , they're only a couple bucks. These only work with screw cap entry into the cells.

I am taking the battery to the local advance auto parts place they will load test it for free. I hope its the battery but if not ill start looking else where believe it or not i really enjoy the learning experience. A guy that lives in my housing development fixes mowers on the side but i want to do it my self. Thanks so much for all the help i have gotten here. Great forum and good group of guys. Once i learn more ill help the newbs like me one day.

Super Start® Lawn & Garden U1LUH - Lawn & Garden Battery | O'Reilly Auto Parts

got one of these today soon as rain quits ill give her a try old battery tested bad

teachme said:

Super Startｮ Lawn & Garden U1LUH - Lawn & Garden Battery | O'Reilly Auto Parts

got one of these today soon as rain quits ill give her a try old battery tested bad

Click to expand...

ahhhhh yeah new battery and she is rocking and rolling mowed 4 acres stopped and started it over 10 times fired everytime no slow turns . yehhhaaaa

:thumbsup:

teachme said:

i was thinking of drilling all the way through it with a 1/4 inch bit and putting a bolt and nut on it since it seems to be open on the end and there is room to do it. As hard as it was to turn before it broke i was worried about the chance of getting it out. What you think about drilling straight through and using a smaller bolt/nut with a washer.

Click to expand...

:thumbsup:that would work fine!

Sudsy 49 said:

:thumbsup:

Click to expand...

Sudsy 49 said:

:thumbsup:that would work fine!

Click to expand...

Turned out great doesn't leak a drop and wasnt to hard to drill with the titanium bit

:thumbsup: Good job, well done. Ain't it nice when something actually comes out like it should? :laughing:

okiepc said:

:thumbsup: Good job, well done. Ain't it nice when something actually comes out like it should? :laughing:

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Yes very nice to have a mower where i can just check the oil fill up the gas and mow. Wife is also coming along well with her flower projects now that her mower starts every time.

Hey guys i need some help on valves again. Mower was doing the hard to start thing again this year where the starter couldnt turn through the compression stroke. so i adjusted the valves set em both around .004 turns over great and starts up fine but it smokes a bit the whole time its running before i adjusted the valves this year i jumped it off with the truck ran great and no smokeing so i am thinking that maybe i got one or both of the valves outta wack thats causing the smoke any advice on where to go from here fires right up every time but smokes just a litte bit while running and puffs out a tad more when i cut the motor off ?

Ok changed the oil and all is good it didi have alot of gas in the engine when i pulled the plug to adjust the valves maybe the carb needs cleaning or a shut off valve.

For sure get a shut off valve just to be safe. :thumbsup: