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Murray/Swisher/Yard Pro
425018x06A

Replaced starter solonoid cause it melted and all I got was clunk sound when turning the key. Replaced with aftermarket solonoid Rotary part number 3319. Murray part number is 1002004MA. Now I have nothing when turning the key. I have continuity on all safety switches, key switch, and solonoid. I have 12v on the terminal tab on the solonoid when putting DVM negative lead on + side battery and DVM + lead on the terminal tab of solonoid. I can jump the new solonoid with a screwdriver and the engine will crank over. Starter has 12v when DVM - lead on - side of the battery and + lead on the starter stud. Fuse is good and using 15amp fuse according to the wiring diagram. Wont crank when parking brake is in engaged either when using the key. I have no power going to the solonoid wire that goes on the terminal when clipping the DVM negative lead to the metal frame of the mower and DVM postive lead to the wire that hooks to the terminal on the solonoid.

Here pics of the old solenoid.

So you have 12+V on battery side cable input on solenoid and no voltage when cranking on small wire that hooks to terminal(tab)? Is this correct? It's been a long day so I may have misread.

Mikel1 said:

So you have 12+V on battery side cable input on solenoid and no voltage when cranking on small wire that hooks to terminal(tab)? Is this correct? It's been a long day so I may have misread.

Click to expand...

Thats correct. I also have 12v on terminal post on the solonoid also when having lead on the terminal and the other on battery post.

I see you tested the safety switches, do all appear to be fully opening/closing? Ground wires are good and tight?

davbell22602 said:

Murray/Swisher/Yard Pro
425018x06A

Replaced starter solonoid cause it melted and all I got was clunk sound when turning the key. Replaced with aftermarket solonoid Rotary part number 3319. Murray part number is 1002004MA. Now I have nothing when turning the key. I have continuity on all safety switches, key switch, and solonoid. I have 12v on the terminal tab on the solonoid when putting DVM negative lead on + side battery and DVM + lead on the terminal tab of solonoid. I can jump the new solonoid with a screwdriver and the engine will crank over. Starter has 12v when DVM - lead on - side of the battery and + lead on the starter stud. Fuse is good and using 15amp fuse according to the wiring diagram. Wont crank when parking brake is in engaged either when using the key. I have no power going to the solonoid wire that goes on the terminal when clipping the DVM negative lead to the metal frame of the mower and DVM postive lead to the wire that hooks to the terminal on the solonoid.

Click to expand...

http://www.swisherinc.com/media/documents/ZT1436_18542_2250.pdf

Mikel1 said:

I see you tested the safety switches, do all appear to be fully opening/closing? Ground wires are good and tight?

Click to expand...

Yes ground wires are tight and safety switches appear to opening/closing.

mechanic mark said:

http://www.swisherinc.com/media/documents/ZT1436_18542_2250.pdf

Click to expand...

This is not a zero turn mower. Its a front engine mower.

Figured I would ask to make sure but you do have 12V to the key switch?

Mikel1 said:

Figured I would ask to make sure but you do have 12V to the key switch?

Click to expand...

Yes I have 12v to the key switch. I even tried a new switch and still no nothing. It has to be safety switch. Going make long piece of wire with a nail on it. Then bolt it on the positive side of the battery and start solonoid terminal then work my way by by following wire by applying 12v when holding nail and turning the key on each safety switch.

Ok , After applying when using a test lead wire off the positive from the battery post power to thread terminal post solonoid starter spins, clutch pedal starter spins also, reverse switch also but had to swap it with clutch switch to get it to spin the starter, PTO switch starter spins when blades are disengaged, PTO switch starter wont spin when blades are engages just sparks at very low voltage plus I hear is the plunger on the fuel solonoid and all I got was sparks on the seat switch. I have 12v on the key switch. Even tried a new key switch and got nothing. The solonoid ground is clean and tight. Same with the ground on the frame where the reverse switch is. No power no voltage nothing on the wire that hooks to the terminal on the solonoid. So its the PTO switch that bad on blade engage side?

Forgive me for perhaps not reading carefully, but did you "beep" out continuity on the lifeless wire. Then try it while wiggling it. Could the wire be "open" (broken internally). Is it fused? Did you jumper in a new , proper gauge wire?

Edit. So during the starter spinning is the starter turning the engine or just loose? Also if you are familiar with the "current" function of your DVM you could try to insert the DVM in current mode to see what kind of load (draw) the starter is. Of course when cranking against compression very high current is drawn (200 amps instantaneously-this would blow the fuse in your DVM only capable of 10 amps) The sparking almost reminds me of a low auto battery which produces chattering at the solenoid contact because it can't latch up due to low current. How do the sparks show themselves?

Also 12V on a bat terminal is not always definitive and never as good as a hydromter check of the electrolyte. If this seems like random raving ignore it all.

Post up a pic of the wire diagram.
If you have no voltage at solenoid wire then trace back from that connector.
Do you have connector disconnected from solenoid when checking volts?
If the new solenoid is faulty then the volts can get consumed in the solenoid and show no volts.

pugaltitude said:

Post up a pic of the wire diagram.
If you have no voltage at solenoid wire then trace back from that connector.
Do you have connector disconnected from solenoid when checking volts?
If the new solenoid is faulty then the volts can get consumed in the solenoid and show no volts.

Click to expand...

No connector disconnected. The solonoid is new but used a Rotary 3319 instead of the OEM Murray 1002004MA.

Here pic of the diagram

Any power from S on ign switch? Orange wire.
So check for power going through pto switch.
If no power at pto then check at brake.
if no power at brake then check ign switch output.
As long as pto disengaged and brake engaged then engine should turn over but not start as seat switch comes into play and
If not engaged then no spark from coil.

Have you got power going to the ign switch.
Battery thick wire to solenoid and small red with fuse has 12 volts to ign switch.

And also to check 12dc its red meter lead on wires and black meter lead on good earth.

Could be a bad ignition switch, or the wrong switch was used.

If you are certain grounds and ignition switch is good, barring all wiring is okay then bypass one safety switch at a time.

I have power at all switches. The ones I was uncertain was the reverse and seat switch as I couldnt get the engine to crank with test wire that I bolted on the battery directly. I was able swap the brake and reverse as there the same to determine that the reverse switch was still good.

The only switches that should have power are the brake and pto.
Forget the rest as they work on the earth side and only affect spark.
The other switches should go to ground.

Just wondering if you ever got this figured out. I'm in an identical situation with similar Murray equipment (early 90'ish Murray - 38 in/11hp briggs strat). And the solenoid only clicks if I let it sit for an hour or so. Can't jump from car battery or from portable battery. I can get the starter to spin for a few seconds if I jump straight to starter with portable battery. Didn't do near the level of testing you did, but I know I have 12 volts from the battery to the starter with the ignition in the start position and all the safeties bypassed. Fuse looks good and passes continuity test. I also have 12 volts going into and out of the solenoid on the main positive posts (in from battery and out to starter). I haven't put the dvm on the ignition yet because ............ well ............ it's kinda difficult to get to ..... but I guess I'll go there next. Also haven't tried shorting the solenoid yet. There's a little bit of rust and corrosion on some of the connections but nothing that looks too bad.