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I have a new GT50 I bought from a big box store. This unit sat in front of the store with 2 others before I bought it. It was out in the elements for several months if not an entire year.

The 25 hp Kohler 7000 series engine runs fine, but occasionally the starter drive does not engage when you go to start it. Turning it off then attempting to restart, it usually engages and all is good. I took it to an authorized service facility here in town and they say its good, that all the Kohlers sound raggedly like this one when starting.

My 20yo Briggs Twin II on the other hand starts flawlessly. Should I just accept this as normal for this engine?

I don't know what your starter looks like, but I have worked on many small engine electric starters. Typically there is a gear that is thrown (forward/Up) to engage the teeth on the flywheel. Many times the shaft of the electric motor and inside of the gear that rides on the shaft becomes rusted (per your comment about it being out in the element). Before taking it to a repair shop, I would get some WD-40 or similar cleaner/lubricant and spray in there many times (wipe away the drippings) and see if that resolves it. It typically does.

Don't spray any WD40 or other lube in there. There is two starters use of these engine one is solenoid shift starter, the other has a rubber driven starter Bendix. If it the rubber driven you will cause it to complete stop working.

Please post your Kohler engine model and spec numbers so we can find which starter you have.

Also if it is a solenoid you may to added the starter solenoid trigger circuit as that might be too much of a voltage drop.

I wouldn’t touch it, be find another authorized Kohler repair shop. That one is too lazy or doesn’t have a clue to help you.

StarTech said:

Don't spray any WD40 or other lube in there. There is two starters use of these engine one is solenoid shift starter, the other has a rubber driven starter Bendix. If it the rubber driven you will cause it to complete stop working.

Please post your Kohler engine model and spec numbers so we can find which starter you have.

Also if it is a solenoid you may to added the starter solenoid trigger circuit as that might be too much of a voltage drop.

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Thanks for the replies everyone:

KOHLER PS-KT740-3085; Ser. 4832003144

You do have the rubber driven Bendix starter PN 32 098 08-S. It best just to replace starter once you verify that it is not just voltage drop to the starter or in the ground return path. Your mower also has a remote starter solenoid which can give problems too but tests would reveal which the problem lays.

I'm just going to start video'ing every time I crank it until I catch it not engaging. Then I can show the service folks and maybe they'll replace it under warranty. Thanks for the replies and the info.

I would start with the simpliest of things, the battery. Throw a volt meter on it and crank it. See what your reading is under load. Clean your battery connections.

bullet bob said:

I would start with the simpliest of things, the battery. Throw a volt meter on it and crank it. See what your reading is under load. Clean your battery connections.

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This unit sat so long at the store, I tested the battery when I first got it home and it only showed a little over 9v. I put my battery tender on it overnight and it was 12.91v the next morning and the battery seems strong. Connections are clean and tight. What is an acceptable starting volt drop?

Rivets said:

I wouldn’t touch it, be find another authorized Kohler repair shop. That one is too lazy or doesn’t have a clue to help you.

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Honestly, it would prolly be easier/better for me to just spend a $100 for a new starter instead of taking it 40 mi off to the next closest authorized repair shop and then waiting possibly weeks to get it back. I see Kohler has a "new" 9 tooth gear unit to replace the prior 10 tooth model that's supposed to be better?

First, you cannot replace a 10 tooth starter with a 9 tooth starter. Teeth between the starter bendix and flywheel ring gear will not mesh properly. Second, acceptable voltage drop depends on a couple of things. Age of the battery, temperature, run time, charge. I would take the fully charged battery to your local repair shop or parts store and have them load test it. Also, if you have a small auto repair shop you trust, they can test it also, plus they do not want to sell you a new one. Might cost you a half dozen donuts there, but well worth it.

When it fails to start, does it just "click", or does the starter motor run and not engage?

Rivets said:

First, you cannot replace a 10 tooth starter with a 9 tooth starter. Teeth between the starter bendix and flywheel ring gear will not mesh properly. Second, acceptable voltage drop depends on a couple of things. Age of the battery, temperature, run time, charge. I would take the fully charged battery to your local repair shop or parts store and have them load test it. Also, if you have a small auto repair shop you trust, they can test it also, plus they do not want to sell you a new one. Might cost you a half dozen donuts there, but well worth it.

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They say the 9 tooth works fine with the current flyweel.

tom3 said:

When it fails to start, does it just "click", or does the starter motor run and not engage?

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No "click", it just spins like its not engaging.

Please teach me something, who says they are interchangeable?

Rivets said:

Please teach me something, who says they are interchangeable?

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OPE Engines site

Might be like car speedometer gears in the old days, enough slop in the driver to account for some variation in the driven.

Might be, but that is OPE stating they are compatible, not Kohler. Any excessive slop between the two gears is going to cause premature wear or gear jamming. It’s up to you if your a betting man.

motomike said:

This unit sat so long at the store, I tested the battery when I first got it home and it only showed a little over 9v. I put my battery tender on it overnight and it was 12.91v the next morning and the battery seems strong. Connections are clean and tight. What is an acceptable starting volt drop?

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Just guessing, to keep any relays open or closed, nothing below 11v when cranking.

If they adjust the diameter of the gear then a 9 tooth is fine smaller gear would give a little more omph

pollishpickle said:

If they adjust the diameter of the gear then a 9 tooth is fine smaller gear would give a little more omph

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That's exactly what the site says about the 9 tooth, more torque. I used the mower yesterday, it started fine. I'm shooting video though every time I crank it.

The size of the gear is determined by the number of teeth
A 9 tooth gear will be smaller than a 10 tooth gear because you are pulling 1 tooth length from the circumference of the base circle.
So to compensate the starter has to go closer to the flywheel
They may have changed the mounting bracket to get it closer