Export thread

New 52" Raptor

#1

I

iclick

I've been using a 50" Sears ZT-7000 to cut my 1-acre lot for the past 12 years and it has served well. Besides minor repairs like deck wheels coming off I've only had to replace the voltage regulator and center spindle assembly. The Briggs IC motor has been faultless, except for the VR which was an easy fix, but the plastic engine cover has disintegrated and replacements are ridiculously expensive. Instead of a new cover I've jury-rigged it with glue and brackets that have been holding for the past few years. It looks terrible but works, as I'm more into function than beauty.

Anyway, last Sunday I bought a 52" Raptor after stumbling upon a clearance sale at Lowe's. With my military and CC discounts I got it for $2175 plus tax, which has to be a real bargain. I've been looking at Toro and Gravely, but hadn't found the right deal and was waiting for spring when the sales pop up. Either way I was expecting to pay $800-1500 more for a ZTR of this size even when on sale. They only had one at my local Lowe's and a few more in outlying areas, so I grabbed it while the getting was good.

It seems well made and I've already ordered a cheap voltmeter and Husqvarna hour meter for it based on tips and reviews here. My yard is not particularly smooth and I think the spring-loaded seat will be an improvement, as my previous riding mowers had no suspension at all. I removed the chute on my previous mowers but am reluctant to do so with the Raptor since the opening exposes the blade and poses a safety concern. Will leave it on mine for the time being and will try to make do by attaching a bungee to pull it up when needed.

Haven't even cranked mine yet, as the yard is too soggy after repeated rain events here to test the new mower, but I'm looking forward to the experience. I would post a photo but it looks like every other 52" Raptor out there, I'm sure, and you all know what they look like.


#2

K

kraky

I think everybody will agree that you done good! If for any reason you don't like it after a year or two you should certainly be able to get out of it without too much Financial pain....lol!


#3

I

iclick

I cranked her up for the first time today and ran it down the street a bit, activated the deck, generally checking it out. The left drive lever was ~4" forward of the right one, which was a simple adjustment. The seat is much lower and levers further back than the Craftsman, but the seat is fine and the levers can be adjusted forward if necessary. The seat has more padding and the springs make the ride better. Installed the hour meter and solar Battery Tender cables the other day, so I'm ready to roll. Too bad there won't be any grass to cut for another two months.


#4

mhavanti

mhavanti

iclick,

You're going to be in love once you do begin finding grass to cut. You must be in the upper portion of Lower Arkansas if you can't find green grass at the moment?

There are plenty of things you can be doing to make your little Raptor more efficient if you want to make it easier to maintain such as the belt cover exhaust ports, a power socket to operate various 12 volt sprayers, fans, etc. I just installed one for video purposes. Unlike yourself, a lot of the folks coming here have no idea 'how to' and thus you may be another of us that will be helpful to them.

I located the first of two behind the dashboard on the outboard side of the fender along with a lighted LED switch in order to turn off and on the sprayer rig more easily.

I really believe you're going to love the HR more than even you think.

Drop by MaxsGarajMahal to get a look at my ole RSD60 if you get anywhere near Little Rock, AR.

Max

P.S. There is a Hustler Enthusiasts Group over in Facebook with some factory collaboration in the group. We've worked hard to get them on board to be a part of your feedback. The other members will welcome you. See you there.


https://www.facebook.com/groups/BigDogandHustlerTurfEquipmentEnthusiasts/


#5

I

iclick

You're going to be in love once you do begin finding grass to cut. You must be in the upper portion of Lower Arkansas if you can't find green grass at the moment?

No, S. LA actually. Lawn is St. Augustine and it's brown and dormant at this time of the year. In mid-March the weeds will pop up en masse and I'll do my first cutting event about then. By April it'll be time to start cutting every week and on 'til about late October when things slow down. I do a mulching run about this time every year, done recently with the old Craftsman, rather than hassle with raking leaves.

What I like about the Raptor is low maintenance, as the Craftsman required quite a bit of lubrication that I did once per year (about every 20 hours)--more Zerks and open lubing with motor oil, the latter of which just attracted debris and caused lots of clutter in mechanical areas like the drive lever joints. The Raptor doesn't require any open lubing of those areas so I'm hopeful it'll stay cleaner and easier to blow off after each mowing.

There are plenty of things you can be doing to make your little Raptor more efficient if you want to make it easier to maintain such as the belt cover....

I may cut some 1¼" holes in the belt cover ends to allow blowing out with the blow drier for the car, which has a strong force and works well for blowing off the mower. It's nozzle is a bit over 1" in diameter at the end, so I could just stick it in the cut holes and blow out what's under the cover.

...exhaust ports...

Haven't heard about this mod yet.

...a power socket to operate various 12 volt sprayers, fans, etc.

I don't do any spraying, so I likely won't be adding any electrical attachments like extra lighting, etc. Fans? How do you attach one to the mower where it'll work well? I could easily rig a connector to my Battery Tender cable.

I really believe you're going to love the HR more than even you think.

I rode it down the street yesterday for the first time, about 0.1 hrs. worth. The yard is too soggy for the mower right now after lots of recent rain. Kaw engine is smooth and quieter than the B&S in the old mower. The ride is better thanks to the sprung seat, as the oldie seat was bolted directly to the frame with no buffering the ride at all except for the tires.

P.S. There is a Hustler Enthusiasts Group over in Facebook....

I'm not active on FB but have an account and will check out the group over there. Thanks for the input.


#6

I

iclick

The forum doesn't seem to want me to edit my last post, so I'll start another one for a second thought. The deck on the Raptor doesn't seem easy to remove like the Craftsman was, which was a matter of releasing the belt, pulling one rod, and sliding it forward. The manual doesn't even mention how to do it. I do have a mower/ATV jack and haven't been pulling the deck for maintenance lately, so I doubt if I'll need to remove the deck unless something like the spindles need service, but that won't be for another three years since it'll be in warranty and I won't be doing the work.


#7

mhavanti

mhavanti

I can't imagine the need to remove your deck unless you're replacing the middle spindle for some reason. That should be many years down the rode. Just lift it to clean it out once in a while if you mow wet.

I'm made quite a few videos on modifying and upgrading your Raptor. Inch and a quarter holes in your belt guard will weaken the cover. Maximum hole size should be 1 1/8" diameter in order to retain the integrity of the ends of both covers. I'll give you the link for that video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzU4xXrKL54

If you have any ideas you might like to see done with the Raptor series, let me know. I have many more modifications and upgrades on the table to do in the future you may enjoy. Stay tuned.

If it helps, hope you'll subscribe, hit the like and notification buttons so that others will see it. Please share as well.

Enjoy that new Raptor, it will serve you well.

Max


#8

I

iclick

I can't imagine the need to remove your deck unless you're replacing the middle spindle for some reason. That should be many years down the rode. Just lift it to clean it out once in a while if you mow wet.

Before I bought the jack I would remove the deck of my old Craftsman (Simplicity) to clean it, sharpen the blades, etc.--but the jack eliminated that need except when I had to replace the center spindle assembly last year. Easy deck removal isn't a big downside now.

Inch and a quarter holes in your belt guard will weaken the cover. Maximum hole size should be 1 1/8" diameter in order to retain the integrity of the ends of both covers.

That size is big enough to insert my blower, barely. Watched your video and it cleared up some questions.

If you have any ideas you might like to see done with the Raptor series, let me know. I have many more modifications and upgrades on the table to do in the future you may enjoy. Stay tuned.

The fan idea piques my interest, as it would be easy to wire up given I have a BT cable already installed. Not sure where I'd mount the fan, though.

Just checked the deck alignment and it was off about ¼" left and right as well as front to rear. The left-right cam adjustment is a hassle, but I got it all lined up.


#9

mhavanti

mhavanti

Glad to year you're all set for the first cut. Temp has fallen 22 degrees since 10 am here in Mid-Arkansas. Didn't go into the Garaj Mahal today. Been getting some of the upcoming video information together. Would rather be doing the physical stuff though.

Keep watching and you'll find a few other things you're going to want to do.

Max


#10

I

iclick

Glad to year you're all set for the first cut. Temp has fallen 22 degrees since 10 am here in Mid-Arkansas.

The same cold front is passing through here now. It was 68° today but will drop to near freezing tonight.


#11

I

iclick

My new Raptor made its maiden voyage today making a full mowing run on my 1-acre yard, and I have a few observations comparing it to the old Craftsman:

  • Ride is better thanks to spring-loaded seat. Old mower had no suspension of any kind, so it was like riding a bronco. Might go with flex forks and/or a seat suspension kit, though, since my yard seems to get rougher every year. Or, maybe I just get softer every year.
  • Not as fast in reverse as forward. My old Craftsman would go full speed in reverse, which was good when I wanted to blow off the driveway in one direction--forward up the driveway, reverse back down blowing debris in the same direction. This is probably by design as a feature to protect me from myself.
  • Both engine and deck noise is much lower, but maybe it's not fair comparing a new mower to a 12-YO.
  • Grass chute didn't get in the way like I expected, so I may leave it attached. I removed it from my old mower on the first day.
Overall, I'm impressed. If it just proves to be as reliable as the old Craftsman I'll have a winner.


#12

mhavanti

mhavanti

iclick,

Glad you like it. Bet it will serve you well. Also promise you the seat suspension kit (make sure you add a slider kit as well) and the flex forks makes all the difference.

Come on over to Failbook and join the Hustler Mower Owners. Here is the link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/HustlerMowerOwners/

Welcome to Hustler Ownership.

Maxhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/HustlerMowerOwners/


#13

I

iclick

Also promise you the seat suspension kit (make sure you add a slider kit as well) and the flex forks makes all the difference.

The link below appears to be the correct suspension kit for the Raptor. What is the yellow-tipped rod on the left side of the seat (right in photo)? Can't find info on the slider kit. Could you provide a link? What does it do?

https://seat-warehouse.com/product/...hustler-raptor-and-sport-zero-turn-mowers-xx/


#14

mhavanti

mhavanti

That is the slider handle. Go with that kit and you'll have the correct one from the get go.

I chose to purchase the seat and slider kit separately in order to save about 35 bucks total. Go with this one and be done with it.

Max


#15

C

clubairth

Yes I installed that exact unit on my SD54 and it's well worth the money. The stock seat seems to be pretty good and replacing that is very expensive.
I did not want to spend that much but since it also turns the seat into an adjustable one you do get several things for your money.

Count me as a satisfied customer. After all you won't wear it out!
.
.
.


#16

C

cruzenmike

My new Raptor made its maiden voyage today making a full mowing run on my 1-acre yard, and I have a few observations comparing it to the old Craftsman:

  • Ride is better thanks to spring-loaded seat. Old mower had no suspension of any kind, so it was like riding a bronco. Might go with flex forks and/or a seat suspension kit, though, since my yard seems to get rougher every year. Or, maybe I just get softer every year.
  • Not as fast in reverse as forward. My old Craftsman would go full speed in reverse, which was good when I wanted to blow off the driveway in one direction--forward up the driveway, reverse back down blowing debris in the same direction. This is probably by design as a feature to protect me from myself.
  • Both engine and deck noise is much lower, but maybe it's not fair comparing a new mower to a 12-YO.
  • Grass chute didn't get in the way like I expected, so I may leave it attached. I removed it from my old mower on the first day.
Overall, I'm impressed. If it just proves to be as reliable as the old Craftsman I'll have a winner.

Glad to hear that things are going as you expected. Be sure to read through the entire manual for the machine. If you don't have a paper copy it can be downloaded from Hustler Turf's website. Pay special attention to the maintenance section which I believe covers how to adjust the tracking of the hydrostatics if you every notice that it does't want to drive straight with the bars both pushed forward. Also, be sure to clean the bottom side of the deck off often to keep the air flowing under there. Many Raptor users have complained about discharge on the deck, so the best thing you can do is to mow when the grass is as dry as possible, keep the deck clean and keep the blades sharp. Other than keeping it maintained you should have a nice machine that lasts you a while!


#17

I

iclick

Thanks for all the input. Ordered the seat suspension kit tonight, but will hold off on the flex forks until I test the seat kit installed. It may be enough, as the stock ride is acceptable. Feedback on it seems generally better than the flex forks, which are pricey.


#18

mhavanti

mhavanti

Good luck with the seat kit. I believe you'll enjoy it.


#19

I

iclick

Went ahead and ordered the flex forks, too. What the heck, $200 + tax at Lowe's with my discounts.


#20

mhavanti

mhavanti

You'll be happy you did. Just don't install them until you've given them a few coats of Marigold Yellow from Rustoleum. Black flex forks are some kind of insulting ugly on your pretty new Hustler. lol

My Flex Forks Preparation video will give you an idea of how much better the mower will appear with the semi-color matched forks. It is a two part video so watch them both. Maybe they will give you an idea or two. Also, don't forget to join the Hustler Owner Group in Failbook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/HustlerMowerOwners/


Enjoy the new mower and never forget my motto: Run it like you stole it, fix it if you break it. Or, maybe it was keep it clean and serviced. Its one of those anyway.

Max

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiMOsUJ168o&t=4s


#21

I

iclick

You'll be happy you did. Just don't install them until you've given them a few coats of Marigold Yellow from Rustoleum.

Where did you get the Rustoleum Marigold Yellow? Checked at Lowe's today and all they had that was close was Sunglow Yellow.


#22

mhavanti

mhavanti

You can pick it up at Wal-Mart or pretty much any store that carries Rustoleum rattle cans.


#23

K

Kremeneon

Also available on Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079KJ31TQ/


#24

I

iclick

In case anyone is interested, the Raptor is on clearance sale again at Lowe's for $2499 until 03/13/19. It apparently applies only to in-stock mowers and can't be ordered. They also show the Raptor for $3099 in another listing, but I assume it is the 2019 model. The only differences I can see is that the 2019 model has a foot pedal instead of a hand lever to adjust mower deck height and the seat is different. Also, unlike the clearance model the 2019 seat doesn't appear to have any armrests, which may be an option at ~$100.

I'll probably leave the Flex Forks black, but in case I change my mind is one 12-oz. can enough to paint them using several coats?


#25

K

Kremeneon

I'll probably leave the Flex Forks black, but in case I change my mind is one 12-oz. can enough to paint them using several coats?

Probably, but I don't know how you use paint...


#26

I

iclick

Haven't had a chance to test the new seat suspension and Flex Forks until today, too wet. I can report a much nicer ride with those two items added, but although I installed them together I can say the seat suspension from Seatwarehouse.com is the most noticeable improvement. I had to readjust my deck after running the FFs for about 45 min., but not much. I'm running 3" front, 2 5/8" rear on deck height, which should be about right for St. Augustine and about where I had it on my old Craftsman.

Had a minor set-back early on today. Right after cranking the mower, getting off, then sitting back down rather firmly the engine quit. I suspected the seat switch connector had come loose since it was immediately after sitting down, but electrical power was out throughout. Checked the 15A fuse on the battery and it was blown, so I think the switch extension cable connectors touched the frame when I sat down. After adding the extension cable when installing the seat suspension there was some exposure at the connector so I added some insulation, re-routed the cable, and wire-tied it to the seat frame. Had no more trouble with it today and I think that issue is solved.


#27

mhavanti

mhavanti

More than likely you are correct the bare connection was the culprit. I will have to make a video for you on how to paint.


#28

I

iclick

Don't mind the black paint on the Flex Forks, so I won't be painting. Happy with the functional result, though, and looking forward to my next mowing adventure, if it will just stop raining for a few days.

One question: When I choke it I pull the lever all the way out, but when it starts when cold it always dies immediately. Starting again with no choke gets it going, so should I start it with the choke lever pulled halfway out or try to adjust the full choke setting so it won't stall?


#29

mhavanti

mhavanti

Kawasaki engines will flood very easily. The choke cable location relative to the ignition switch is not ergonomic and makes it quite difficult to get the choke turned off quickly enough. So, only choke it enough to cut back on the oxygen enough to enrich the fuel air mixture no longer than it requires to remain running.

And, bite your tongue on the black forks. You'll lose friends and make enemies with that kind of babbling! lol. Joke

I made an ergonomic dash that fixed the ignition, choke, throttle, clutch and light switches much more accessible and all you do is turn the ignition switch with the choke up while the engine is bone cold, rocking the side of your hand to the right opens the choke (pushes the choke cable knob down) all in one smooth movement. A fantastic upgrade.

Will be available to customers in the not too distant future.

Have fun with the mower.

Max


#30

C

cruzenmike

Here is the exact starting procedure for your mower:

The following steps are the correct procedures for starting
the engine. If difficulty is encountered, contact the Hustler®
Dealer in your area.
1. Before starting mower each day, perform daily preoperation checking. (See Safety Start Interlock System
section.)
2. Make sure the steering control levers are in the park
brake position and deck clutch switch is disengaged.
Only start the engine from the operator’s position.
3. Use the choke, if the unit is equipped with one, when
engine is cold, or if warm engine fails to start within 5
seconds of cranking. Avoid flooding and operate
engine without choking as soon as possible.
4. Set throttle at approximately 1/2 open position.
5. Insert key in ignition switch and rotate full clockwise
to engage starting motor. Release key when engine
starts.
IMPORTANT: The engine starter should not be operated for periods longer than 30 seconds at a time. An
interval of at least two minutes should be allowed
between such cranking periods to protect the starter
from overheating and burn-out.
6. Perform test to make sure safety start interlock system is operating properly. Refer to Safety Start Interlock System section.
7. Allow the engine to idle a few minutes before advancing the throttle and/or engaging the deck clutch.

It sounds as if you should always try starting with the throttle at half and if it is at all warm, you could try without the choke.


#31

I

iclick

Kawasaki engines will flood very easily. The choke cable location relative to the ignition switch is not ergonomic and makes it quite difficult to get the choke turned off quickly enough. So, only choke it enough to cut back on the oxygen enough to enrich the fuel air mixture no longer than it requires to remain running.

I noticed the ergonomic issue. I just tried reaching under the armrest with my left hand to activate the choke while twisting the ignition key with the right hand. Didn't actually crank it but the contortion seems workable.

And, bite your tongue on the black forks. You'll lose friends and make enemies with that kind of babbling! lol. Joke

I've kind of grown to like the black accents on my car, so that tolerance has extended into my mower. The car is fast, so I thought it might improve performance on the mower. What do you think?

Corvette C7 GS 2017-6L.jpg

Will look for your upgraded dash setup.


#32

I

iclick

The two-handed choke method mentioned above works fine.


#33

E

EricC

my armrests flip up so if it happens to be down, I flip it up and use the 2 handed method, 1 hand on choke, the other to turn the key and immediately push choke down and let her warm up a bit before hitting the lawn.


#34

mhavanti

mhavanti

Anything that works is always a good thing.


#35

F

Filer

I'm on my second season of using a 52" Raptor Limited to mow 4+ acres of thick grass on gently rolling land. That's more than most people use an EZT equipped Raptor on, but it definitely will efficiently mow that much. I mowed the whole place yesterday and still had time to cut down a tree. I've got 132 hours on it with no problems.


#36

I

iclick

I'm on my second season of using a 52" Raptor Limited...no problems.

That's encouraging and I assume the Limited is very similar to my 2018 Raptor 52". I'm on about nine hours now, did my first oil/filter change at five hours with Mobil1 15w50 and a Fram Ultra XG4967, removed the pulley covers, and as per Mhavanti's mod suggestions I added an hour meter and voltmeter. So far no problems here. With the Seat Suspension and Flex Forks it glides across my rough yard without jarring my tailbone out of its socket. In fact it feels like a small car gliding along. Although handling took a bit of getting used to compared to my smaller Craftsman ZTR, it was not because of any shortcoming with the Raptor but rather nuances you would expect from two different brands separated by 12 years.

One minor complaint might be that when mowing the steering levers have a gap between them that makes it difficult to hold speed and do minor control with one hand. I do this a few times each session when I need to hold a tree branch away from me while moving under a tree. My old Craftsman levers were closer together which made it easier to control in this type of situation. I thought about rigging something to fit over the foam grips to extended them, or maybe bending the levers inward a bit, but I'm getting used to this configuration and may resist the temptation to modify it. It's in my nature to modify things and sometimes I need to show restraint. I'm sure some of you can sympathize, but if anyone has an easy mod I'll listen.


#37

W

Watco2

Hi everyone,
I just bought a 2019 Raptor 52" mower and I'm very pleased with it, except the deck height letters. Does anyone know of anyone making new stickers with the actual heights instead of letters? Thanks


#38

mhavanti

mhavanti

Iclick,

For your sticks to be closer together (touching actually) remove them from outside the steering levers, reattach them inside, adjust to taste and you're off and running. Have you joined the Hustler Mower Owners Group in Facebook?

If not, here is the link for Hustler Mower Owners: https://www.facebook.com/groups/HustlerMowerOwners/

That's encouraging and I assume the Limited is very similar to my 2018 Raptor 52". I'm on about nine hours now, did my first oil/filter change at five hours with Mobil1 15w50 and a Fram Ultra XG4967, removed the pulley covers, and as per Mhavanti's mod suggestions I added an hour meter and voltmeter. So far no problems here. With the Seat Suspension and Flex Forks it glides across my rough yard without jarring my tailbone out of its socket. In fact it feels like a small car gliding along. Although handling took a bit of getting used to compared to my smaller Craftsman ZTR, it was not because of any shortcoming with the Raptor but rather nuances you would expect from two different brands separated by 12 years.

One minor complaint might be that when mowing the steering levers have a gap between them that makes it difficult to hold speed and do minor control with one hand. I do this a few times each session when I need to hold a tree branch away from me while moving under a tree. My old Craftsman levers were closer together which made it easier to control in this type of situation. I thought about rigging something to fit over the foam grips to extended them, or maybe bending the levers inward a bit, but I'm getting used to this configuration and may resist the temptation to modify it. It's in my nature to modify things and sometimes I need to show restraint. I'm sure some of you can sympathize, but if anyone has an easy mod I'll listen.


#39

mhavanti

mhavanti

Watco2,

Yes Sir, there is a gentleman that may still have a few left in the Hustler Mower Owner group that made them. Join the Hustler Mower Owner group in Facebook so I can hook you up with him.

Here is the link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/HustlerMowerOwners/https://www.facebook.com/groups/HustlerMowerOwners/

Hi everyone,
I just bought a 2019 Raptor 52" mower and I'm very pleased with it, except the deck height letters. Does anyone know of anyone making new stickers with the actual heights instead of letters? Thanks


#40

I

iclick

For your sticks to be closer together (touching actually) remove them from outside the steering levers, reattach them inside, adjust to taste and you're off and running.

Never thought of that and will try it. Thanks for the idea.


#41

C

clubairth

Yes I thought the whole letter thing as awkward and not useful. But here is a chart I got.
I also put a white paint make on the letter I use so I can quickly put things back to normal.

Mower Deck Height Chart.jpg

Sorry for the small size. Again poor forum software.
.
.
.


#42

The Chairman

The Chairman

Yes I thought the whole letter thing as awkward and not useful. But here is a chart I got.
I also put a white paint make on the letter I use so I can quickly put things back to normal.

attachment.php


Sorry for the small size. Again poor forum software.
.
.
.
That is awesome! Thanks!


#43

B

bertsmobile1

PROBLEM WITH putting inches to the height pins is they will not be the same for all machines and all grass types.
They are only approximate.
Once you adjust the deck for level the first time they will again be different.
The steeper the attack angle the shorter the grass will be cut.


#44

I

iclick

PROBLEM WITH putting inches to the height pins is they will not be the same for all machines and all grass types.
They are only approximate. Once you adjust the deck for level the first time they will again be different.

My 2018 Raptor 52" is 2 3/4" F, 2 15/16" R on the "D" setting. I just changed mine from "C" to "D", as 3" is about right for St. Augustine.


#45

I

iclick

For your sticks to be closer together (touching actually) remove them from outside the steering levers, reattach them inside, adjust to taste and you're off and running.

Good tip. I moved mine and they're now ~½" apart, which is perfect.


Top