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need help with my v twin 16 hp

#1

S

slaghead

starter clicks and hums won't crank engine.Battery is good.Removed starter and put power to it.starter runs fine. Can turn fly wheel with a large socket and a breaker bar.Engine seems to be hard to turn.Any advice out there? Thanks


#2

S

shiftsuper175607

slaghead said:
starter clicks and hums won't crank engine.Battery is good.Removed starter and put power to it.starter runs fine. Can turn fly wheel with a large socket and a breaker bar.Engine seems to be hard to turn.Any advice out there? Thanks
Click to expand...

How do you know the battery is good?
Did you also try to jump start it?
Check all connections on battery and solenoid and starter.
I had one that turned out to be the starter...even though I thought it was good.


#3

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Engine is hard to turn with a breaker bar ??????? Hmmmm seems like a hydro lock or a semi froze engine.....

Pull the plugs and then try to turn it over........ If not then try the bar again.... If still hard you got a froze engine on your hands.... Mon Ami ..

Let us know something ~!~!


#4

S

shiftsuper175607

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
Engine is hard to turn with a breaker bar ??????? Hmmmm seems like a hydro lock or a semi froze engine.....

Pull the plugs and then try to turn it over........ If not then try the bar again.... If still hard you got a froze engine on your hands.... Mon Ami ..

Let us know something ~!~!
Click to expand...

I just figured he has good compression.


#5

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

shiftsuper175607 said:
I just figured he has good compression.
Click to expand...


Or a bad ACR ...


#6

S

shiftsuper175607

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
Or a bad ACR ...
Click to expand...

I would try and jump start it
If no change
I would jumper across solenoid posts with screw driver
If no change
I would consider bad starter



What is most likely the problem is most likely the problem.


Battery..at least absolutely eliminate the battery


#7

Boobala

Boobala

Have you tried rotating it with the plugs out ..?? Is it any easier that way ..?? If so.. may need valves adjusted.......or maybe a broken key-way........


#8

L

Luffydog

Also could the electric clutch if has one.


#9

H

Hal12

Had a similar problem with the dixon a week ago...battery just clicked..
engine was froze for some reason. This has happened before and it
seemed a simple matter to just work on the rotating screen..get it
to turn and it eventually would free up and start ok..run ok. This last
time I got it free but it was hard to start. It backfired once and oil
started running out of the vent tube. So I tore it down to where I
could pull the tube out..cleaned it all up put it back together...AND, checked
the oil..Was on inch over the full mark! wtf! Drained out to the half full
mark and she started up first crank..blew out smoke for awhile and then
started running clean...still does.


#10

B

bertsmobile1

Hal12 said:
Had a similar problem with the dixon a week ago...battery just clicked..
engine was froze for some reason. This has happened before and it
seemed a simple matter to just work on the rotating screen..get it
to turn and it eventually would free up and start ok..run ok. This last
time I got it free but it was hard to start. It backfired once and oil
started running out of the vent tube. So I tore it down to where I
could pull the tube out..cleaned it all up put it back together...AND, checked
the oil..Was on inch over the full mark! wtf! Drained out to the half full
mark and she started up first crank..blew out smoke for awhile and then
started running clean...still does.
Click to expand...

This is what happens when the float valv in the carb fails to shut off the fuel supply.
Fuel leaks out of the carb vent which by law now days has to be inside the carb so it overflows into the carb throat, down the inlet valve into the cylinder past the rings and into the sump.
Very important that you check it again before you start the mower.
If the oil is high again then remove the spark plug & rotate the engine as quick as you can by hand to remove the fuel in the cylinder, then change the oil twice and the filter on the second change.
Remove the carb and clean the inlet needle & seat.
Check that the needle is stopping the fuel supply by having some one crank the engine while you hold the float bowl up with your finger.
If the fuel does not shut off before the float touches the carb then it is time to replace the needle & seat.


#11

S

slaghead

Thanks for all the advice.Jump starting did not help.I put a meter to the battery,12.3 volts was the reading.Removed the starter,and put power to it,and it ran like a champ.And by the way my solution for removing the seemingly impossible right starter bolt was useing a metric Allen wrench to fit the torx head bolt.Removing the spark plugs did not improve the stiffness turning the engine.cleaned all my connections,still no luck


#12

S

shiftsuper175607

slaghead said:
Thanks for all the advice.Jump starting did not help.I put a meter to the battery,12.3 volts was the reading.Removed the starter,and put power to it,and it ran like a champ.And by the way my solution for removing the seemingly impossible right starter bolt was useing a metric Allen wrench to fit the torx head bolt.Removing the spark plugs did not improve the stiffness turning the engine.cleaned all my connections,still no luck
Click to expand...

If the engine will not turn with the spark plugs out...my opinion is that there is catastrophic failure within the engine.
Take drive belt off to take any load it is putting on the engine.
Engine should turn with a wrench on pulley nut...not free spinning but with out hard effort.

do others agree?
What can he do to verify or eliminate major problem?


#13

B

bertsmobile1

shiftsuper175607 said:
If the engine will not turn with the spark plugs out...my opinion is that there is catastrophic failure within the engine.
Take drive belt off to take any load it is putting on the engine.
Engine should turn with a wrench on pulley nut...not free spinning but with out hard effort.

do others agree?
What can he do to verify or eliminate major problem?
Click to expand...

Nope, you are right, if you can not turn over the engine with the palm of you hand on the finger guard when the plugs ore out and the belts are off then the engine is siezed and requires a strip down.
Could be nothing worse than a pushrod fallen off and getting jambed into the cam or a major failure.


#14

S

slaghead

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
Engine is hard to turn with a breaker bar ??????? Hmmmm seems like a hydro lock or a semi froze engine.....

Pull the plugs and then try to turn it over........ If not then try the bar again.... If still hard you got a froze engine on your hands.... Mon Ami ..

Let us know something ~!~!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice Boudreaux,I've decided to take it to be repaired.I'm not tare the engine down guy.I'll let everyone know in a couple of weeks what they find


#15

S

slaghead

Sorry for the delay.My tractor was in the shop for a while.The problem was the electric clutch bearings were bad and causing the engine to seize up.thus the starter would not turn the engine over.Very expensive part.The electric clutch was replaced. $345.00 plus labor came to $425.00. Runs like a champ.Thanks for all the advice.


#16

S

slaghead

Luffydog said:
Also could the electric clutch if has one.[/QUOTE You were right on. The clutch bearings were seized up
Click to expand...


#17

L

Luffydog

Thank you for the update and letting us know what the problem was and the fix. Glad to hear you are up and running again:thumbsup: yes the clutch is costly but not as bad as a new engine or a new mower itself in some cases its close. Glad to see your going like I said and thanks for the feedback.


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