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bought a 20hp IC twin to attempt replacing a Kohler courage 20hp. kohler has electric clutch, briggs does not. was told it probably will not put out enough power to run the clutch. briggs and their serv facility could not advise, other than facility said it would not even run headlights. any ideas?

what color is the stater plug on the Briggs or post the model and serial numbers

Mower clutch should draw 3 to 5 amps running. A good 300 amp lawn and garden battery would run it for hours and any Briggs twin IC electric start engine should have a charging circuit of some type. Might need to manually recharge once in a while though. I'd put it together and run it for a while, see how it performs.

old biker said:

bought a 20hp IC twin to attempt replacing a Kohler courage 20hp. kohler has electric clutch, briggs does not. was told it probably will not put out enough power to run the clutch. briggs and their serv facility could not advise, other than facility said it would not even run headlights. any ideas?

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Virtually any B&S Stator will interchange with that engine. The only other component is the flywheel with magnets. Even if the flywheel has small magnets in it, it will produce enough current to more than operate the clutch and maintain the battery. Lots of B&S engines in junk piles with Stators suitable for operating clutch and maintain battery. I probably have B&S info on stator out put and I think you can Google it.

You were consulting a dumb B&S Service Facility.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com

Briggs alternators in that size engine run 2 different systems
the cheap system has an AC & a DC output.
The AC goes to the headlights & the DC goes back to recharge the battery.

The other type use a rectifier so only supply DC which means lights if fitted are DC and wired differently


Briggs have several alternator guides on the web called
Engine alternator repower guide
and
Engine alternator replacement guide
Also
Alternator specifications

These will contain all a customer would ever need to know about alternators and also some basic wiring diagrams.

NorthBama said:

what color is the stater plug on the Briggs or post the model and serial numbers

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model # is 42A707 type 2238 E1 code 0008085B mfg date 2000-2001

Briggs colour code the wires & plugs which is why you were asked for the colour of the plug ( and wires ).

with the #s posted, can you advise if I should be ok with using this engine with the electric clutch off the kohler engine ? (assuming the shaft is the same diameter)

bertsmobile1 said:

Briggs colour code the wires & plugs which is why you were asked for the colour of the plug ( and wires ).

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I will check wiring and plug colors when possible, just to get more info. working on our new house, may be a few days till I can get back to the engine. I sure do appreciate all of you for the info thus far.

What Tom said is quite true.
Unless you are mowing 20 acres or do 50 starts each time you mow, the battery will last for a full mow so at worst might need to sit on the trickle charger for a day

I edited my post #2 hope it is useful information

QUOTE=bertsmobile1;338973]What Tom said is quite true.
Unless you are mowing 20 acres or do 50 starts each time you mow, the battery will last for a full mow so at worst might need to sit on the trickle charger for a day[/QUOTE]

I happen to be in my shop today, so I took a minute to look at the motor to see if the wiring/connector was visible while assembled. the harness coming from under the cover has a milky-white connector, and the wires coming to it are black and white. as they leave the plug, they change to red and white. again, I am thankful for all the response so far, much more helpful than briggs and the service shop.

I worked on mower yesterday, looking good so far, ready to tackle wiring. the briggs engine has 3 wires, from chassis, yellow, which changes to black as goes under cover-goes to the coil. red and white, goes to white connector, then comes out asred and black, & goes under flywheel.

chassis of cub cadet has a 4 wire plug which has 4 wires- red, red with white stripe,black, and yellow.

coming out of connector,there are 5 wires. red stays red, goes to carb bowl switch-n/a on briggs yellow goes to white,goes to coil black goes to green,goes to a sender,oil pressure I believe, also n/a on briggs. red w/ white stripe goes to violet, combines with orange out (no matching wire in connector) the orange and violet go to a finned aluminum unit,possibly a charging component (rectifier?), then 2 white wires come out and go under flywheel



not sure which to connect, and where. also, would it be good to install the unit I think is a rectifier, and can it even be done?


I appreciate any help anyone can give. will work on cables to get more ready to run after wiring is done. thanks in advance.

old biker said:

QUOTE=bertsmobile1;338973]What Tom said is quite true.
Unless you are mowing 20 acres or do 50 starts each time you mow, the battery will last for a full mow so at worst might need to sit on the trickle charger for a day

Click to expand...

I happen to be in my shop today, so I took a minute to look at the motor to see if the wiring/connector was visible while assembled. the harness coming from under the cover has a milky-white connector, and the wires coming to it are black and white. as they leave the plug, they change to red and white. again, I am thankful for all the response so far, much more helpful than briggs and the service shop.[/QUOTE]

I GOT THE ENGINE MOUNTED, MOSTLY DONE, WIRING IS MY NEXT CHALLENGE. THE BRIGGS HAS A WHITE COIL WIRE AND 2 THAT GO UUNDER THE FLYWHEEL, I BELIEVE CONNECTING TO THE CHHARGING SYSTEM.
THE KOHLER HAS 4 AT THE CHASSIS PLUG, CHANGES TO 5 COMING OUT, RED,GOES TO GAS BOWL CUT OFF, N/A ON BRIGGS. GREEN,GOES TO OIL SENDER/CUTOFF, N/A ON BRIGGS. ORANGE AND VIOLET, GOES INTO RECTIFIER, CHANGES TO 2 WHITE,GOES UNDER FLYWHEEL. ANOTHER RED, AND A BLACK. HAVE NO CLUE AS TO WHICH TO CONNECT TO THE 3 ON THE BRIGGS. SINCE THERE ARE CUT OFFS AND LIGHTS, NOT SURE IF THEY BACKTRACK AND HAVE SOME AFFECT FOR STARTING AND RUNNING EVEN THOUGH THEY WILLL NOT BE UTILIZED. ANY IDEAS?

You need to just determine what the wires are on the engine, and go from there. The main danger is accidently hooking the kill wire to the ignition to 12 volts, which will destroy your ignition coil. That wire needs to be hooked to the circuit that grounds when the key is turned off. The other wires are likely just the wires from your alternator under the flywheel. Take off the top cover and take some pics.

Well, the wires that come from under the flywheel carry an AC current, no polarity with that, hook up either way to rectifier. From that you'd need a voltmeter to check the DC polarity and hook to battery circuit. I'd assume (uh oh) that the wire from the coil is a kill circuit to shut down the motor, no current needed on that wire.

thanks guys, I will be getting someone that is smarter than I am to help, really don't want to mess up something since I got this far. I appreciate the information, it is very helpful,,, moreso if you know something to begin with, I do not. maybe next week we can get it done, and done correctly. thanks again.