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Mouse Ate Red Cable. How to Fix?
#1
K
Kimberly5
K
Kimberly5
Hello everyone. My mower's engine is a Kohler Courage 19. The engine won't crank. I opened things up and found a nice mouse nest:
After clearing the nest I found:
As you can see, the mouse gnawed through the pink wire completely. The black wire leading from the ignition module to the spark plug survived.
What is the function of the pink wire? It seems to lead to the carburetor. How can I fix it?
Thank you!
After clearing the nest I found:
As you can see, the mouse gnawed through the pink wire completely. The black wire leading from the ignition module to the spark plug survived.
What is the function of the pink wire? It seems to lead to the carburetor. How can I fix it?
Thank you!
#2
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Buy a cat or feed your mice more :laughing:
The wire to the carburettor can simply be replaced with some new wire joined in past where the damage is.
IT powers the solenoid in the carb which cuts off the fuel to the main jet when you turn the ignition off.
OTOH the mouse has also chewed through the spark plug wire and that is not repairable so you will need a new magneto .
At the end of next season remove the blower cover , clean the cooling fins and leave it off till spring so the mice will go find some thing else to destroy
The wire to the carburettor can simply be replaced with some new wire joined in past where the damage is.
IT powers the solenoid in the carb which cuts off the fuel to the main jet when you turn the ignition off.
OTOH the mouse has also chewed through the spark plug wire and that is not repairable so you will need a new magneto .
At the end of next season remove the blower cover , clean the cooling fins and leave it off till spring so the mice will go find some thing else to destroy
#3
K
Kimberly5
I will order a replacement ignition module ASAP.
K
Kimberly5
Very funny!Buy a cat or feed your mice more :laughing:
Where can I purchase the correct wire type?The wire to the carburettor can simply be replaced with some new wire joined in past where the damage is.
Wow. Very interesting.IT powers the solenoid in the carb which cuts off the fuel to the main jet when you turn the ignition off.
Oh, I thought the wire was still intact inside. Didn't realize that "hair" coming out was actually the wire.OTOH the mouse has also chewed through the spark plug wire and that is not repairable so you will need a new magneto .
I will order a replacement ignition module ASAP.
Excellent tip. I will try this. The problem is that the owner has been keeping the mower outdoors with a tarp over it. I will try to persuade him to clear space in his garage so he can use your tip.At the end of next season remove the blower cover , clean the cooling fins and leave it off till spring so the mice will go find some thing else to destroy
#4
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Well no use being too serious about this.
The hairy bits in the plug wire are strands of fiberglass with graphite to conduct the electricity.
Being under a tarp outside would be a problem but if the cover is off then there is no small space for them to make a nest in.
Add to that the cover should come off each year to clean the fins , so it is just a matter of putting the screws back in place so you don't loose them then putting the blower housing upside down on the seat.
Stuff like moth balls will also go a long way to keeping onterlopers from moving is.
Apparently cat wee does the same thing.
Being inside probably would not make much difference unless there is a cat in the garage.
FWIW I hate cats, but I have a shed cat that lives in the workshop.
It gets locked in overnight and let out in the morning when I arrive.
It also gets fed in the morning , inside the workshop when I arrive so it is hungry and prowling around inside all night
Before the cat I used to catch 20 or so field mice inside the office ( above the workshop ) each season .
Now it is rare to get one.
The catch is remembering it is a working cat doing exactly what we domesticated cats for , not a pampered pet there for the purpose of making funny cat videos.
The hairy bits in the plug wire are strands of fiberglass with graphite to conduct the electricity.
Being under a tarp outside would be a problem but if the cover is off then there is no small space for them to make a nest in.
Add to that the cover should come off each year to clean the fins , so it is just a matter of putting the screws back in place so you don't loose them then putting the blower housing upside down on the seat.
Stuff like moth balls will also go a long way to keeping onterlopers from moving is.
Apparently cat wee does the same thing.
Being inside probably would not make much difference unless there is a cat in the garage.
FWIW I hate cats, but I have a shed cat that lives in the workshop.
It gets locked in overnight and let out in the morning when I arrive.
It also gets fed in the morning , inside the workshop when I arrive so it is hungry and prowling around inside all night
Before the cat I used to catch 20 or so field mice inside the office ( above the workshop ) each season .
Now it is rare to get one.
The catch is remembering it is a working cat doing exactly what we domesticated cats for , not a pampered pet there for the purpose of making funny cat videos.
#5
K
Kimberly5
Thanks for all this.
You wrote that I can replace the old wire with some new wire. How can I know the proper wire type to buy?
K
Kimberly5
Well no use being too serious about this.
The hairy bits in the plug wire are strands of fiberglass with graphite to conduct the electricity.
Being under a tarp outside would be a problem but if the cover is off then there is no small space for them to make a nest in.
Add to that the cover should come off each year to clean the fins , so it is just a matter of putting the screws back in place so you don't loose them then putting the blower housing upside down on the seat.
Stuff like moth balls will also go a long way to keeping onterlopers from moving is.
Apparently cat wee does the same thing.
Being inside probably would not make much difference unless there is a cat in the garage.
FWIW I hate cats, but I have a shed cat that lives in the workshop.
It gets locked in overnight and let out in the morning when I arrive.
It also gets fed in the morning , inside the workshop when I arrive so it is hungry and prowling around inside all night
Before the cat I used to catch 20 or so field mice inside the office ( above the workshop ) each season .
Now it is rare to get one.
The catch is remembering it is a working cat doing exactly what we domesticated cats for , not a pampered pet there for the purpose of making funny cat videos.
Thanks for all this.
You wrote that I can replace the old wire with some new wire. How can I know the proper wire type to buy?
#6
B
bertsmobile1
Sorry Got diverted by the cat.
Any old insulated wire will do, a piece of speaker wire, any old auto wire, trailer light wire, any roll of wire you buy from an auto shop.
The solenoid draws about 0.25Amps.
We use different wire grading system to the USA so what I use will be of no help to you.
Any auto wreckers or go to the local dump & pull a few feet off a dead car.
If you want to go bets + braces & a length of rope approach you can go to an electric supply shop & get some fiberglass heat resistant tubing and slide that over the wire to protect it from heat.
This tubing is called spagetti tube down here, cause it is about the same colour as spagetti and we eat a lot of hollow spagetti tubes.
B
bertsmobile1
Thanks for all this.
You wrote that I can replace the old wire with some new wire. How can I know the proper wire type to buy?
Sorry Got diverted by the cat.
Any old insulated wire will do, a piece of speaker wire, any old auto wire, trailer light wire, any roll of wire you buy from an auto shop.
The solenoid draws about 0.25Amps.
We use different wire grading system to the USA so what I use will be of no help to you.
Any auto wreckers or go to the local dump & pull a few feet off a dead car.
If you want to go bets + braces & a length of rope approach you can go to an electric supply shop & get some fiberglass heat resistant tubing and slide that over the wire to protect it from heat.
This tubing is called spagetti tube down here, cause it is about the same colour as spagetti and we eat a lot of hollow spagetti tubes.
#7
K
Kimberly5
Hello sir. Thank you for your help.
I have now replaced the wire to the carburetor as well as the ignition coil (magneto). I also bought a new air filter and installed it. I was very careful and I think I did a good job.
However, the engine still will not crank!
According to the engine manual, the possible reasons are:
● Battery is discharged.
● Faulty electric starter or solenoid.
● Faulty key switch or ignition switch.
● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty.
● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground
ignition kill circuit.
● Pawls not engaging in drive cup.
● Seized internal engine components.
Could you suggest a plan of attack to fix the problem? Thank you!
K
Kimberly5
Sorry Got diverted by the cat.
Any old insulated wire will do, a piece of speaker wire, any old auto wire, trailer light wire, any roll of wire you buy from an auto shop.
The solenoid draws about 0.25Amps.
We use different wire grading system to the USA so what I use will be of no help to you.
Any auto wreckers or go to the local dump & pull a few feet off a dead car.
If you want to go bets + braces & a length of rope approach you can go to an electric supply shop & get some fiberglass heat resistant tubing and slide that over the wire to protect it from heat.
This tubing is called spagetti tube down here, cause it is about the same colour as spagetti and we eat a lot of hollow spagetti tubes.
Hello sir. Thank you for your help.
I have now replaced the wire to the carburetor as well as the ignition coil (magneto). I also bought a new air filter and installed it. I was very careful and I think I did a good job.
However, the engine still will not crank!
According to the engine manual, the possible reasons are:
● Battery is discharged.
● Faulty electric starter or solenoid.
● Faulty key switch or ignition switch.
● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty.
● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground
ignition kill circuit.
● Pawls not engaging in drive cup.
● Seized internal engine components.
Could you suggest a plan of attack to fix the problem? Thank you!
#8
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The circuit theory
Mower wiring 101
Power usually goes from the hot side of the starter solenoid .
1) through a fuse
2) the the B ( = battery) terminal on the ignition switch ( tiny numbers under the switch )
3) to S (= Start) terminal on the switch
4) the the PTO switch or PTO safety switch on manual PTO's
5) to the brake safety switch
6) to the trigger wire on the solenoid.
This is a daisy chain so a break anywhere = no cranking
If the solenoid has only 1 small wire then the ground is via the case which will benefit from a clean where it contacts the body of the mower to get a good contact.
The ignition control can either be on the key switch
M + G = off
follow the thin wire from the coil
This is a ground wire.
Ground = off
Open circuit = on
The Way I like to test it
Look at the starting solenoid
There should be 1 thin wire on the same terminal as the battery cable
There should be one or two more thin wires on the base of the solenoid.
If there is only one, jump from the battery cable to it and the engine should crank if the battery, cabling & solenoid are all in working order.
If there are 2 thin wires ground the other one.
If it cranks then there is a problem in the craning circuit
If it does not crank there is a problem with the heavy cables , starter or solenoid.
Bridging the two heavy cables on the top bypasses the solenoid so if that spins the engine but the above test did not the solenoid is bad
Mower wiring 101
Power usually goes from the hot side of the starter solenoid .
1) through a fuse
2) the the B ( = battery) terminal on the ignition switch ( tiny numbers under the switch )
3) to S (= Start) terminal on the switch
4) the the PTO switch or PTO safety switch on manual PTO's
5) to the brake safety switch
6) to the trigger wire on the solenoid.
This is a daisy chain so a break anywhere = no cranking
If the solenoid has only 1 small wire then the ground is via the case which will benefit from a clean where it contacts the body of the mower to get a good contact.
The ignition control can either be on the key switch
M + G = off
follow the thin wire from the coil
This is a ground wire.
Ground = off
Open circuit = on
The Way I like to test it
Look at the starting solenoid
There should be 1 thin wire on the same terminal as the battery cable
There should be one or two more thin wires on the base of the solenoid.
If there is only one, jump from the battery cable to it and the engine should crank if the battery, cabling & solenoid are all in working order.
If there are 2 thin wires ground the other one.
If it cranks then there is a problem in the craning circuit
If it does not crank there is a problem with the heavy cables , starter or solenoid.
Bridging the two heavy cables on the top bypasses the solenoid so if that spins the engine but the above test did not the solenoid is bad
#9
K
Kimberly5
Well, it will take me a long time to get through that!
Before I go down that road, I want to note that the spark plug is not sparking. Should I still follow the checklist above, or is there something else I should do?
K
Kimberly5
The circuit theory
Mower wiring 101
Power usually goes from the hot side of the starter solenoid .
1) through a fuse
2) the the B ( = battery) terminal on the ignition switch ( tiny numbers under the switch )
3) to S (= Start) terminal on the switch
4) the the PTO switch or PTO safety switch on manual PTO's
5) to the brake safety switch
6) to the trigger wire on the solenoid.
This is a daisy chain so a break anywhere = no cranking
If the solenoid has only 1 small wire then the ground is via the case which will benefit from a clean where it contacts the body of the mower to get a good contact.
The ignition control can either be on the key switch
M + G = off
follow the thin wire from the coil
This is a ground wire.
Ground = off
Open circuit = on
The Way I like to test it
Look at the starting solenoid
There should be 1 thin wire on the same terminal as the battery cable
There should be one or two more thin wires on the base of the solenoid.
If there is only one, jump from the battery cable to it and the engine should crank if the battery, cabling & solenoid are all in working order.
If there are 2 thin wires ground the other one.
If it cranks then there is a problem in the craning circuit
If it does not crank there is a problem with the heavy cables , starter or solenoid.
Bridging the two heavy cables on the top bypasses the solenoid so if that spins the engine but the above test did not the solenoid is bad
Well, it will take me a long time to get through that!
Before I go down that road, I want to note that the spark plug is not sparking. Should I still follow the checklist above, or is there something else I should do?
#10
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Do you have the correct air gap between your flywheel and Coil?
#11
K
Kimberly5
I followed the instructions in the following video:
K
Kimberly5
Do you have the correct air gap between your flywheel and Coil?
I followed the instructions in the following video:
#12
B
bertsmobile1
For the time being, leave the coil disconnected
The wire on the coil is a ground wire.
Without being grounded the coil should provide a nice spark at the plug.
I should have warned you to disconnect that wire before you start and pull the spark plug.
Most of the safety switches have 2 switches in the one housing
One side switches 12V so the solenoid energizes & the starter cranks the engine.
The other side grounds the coil to prevent the engine starting.
If there is more bare wiring there is a chance that the wires have shorted together.
On most tractors you will not get a spark if
1) the PTO is turned on
2) the brake is turned off
3) the mower is in reverse
the last thing I do before reconnecting the coil is to check there is no voltage on it when the engine is cranking and it goes to ground when the engine is turned off.
B
bertsmobile1
Well, it will take me a long time to get through that!
Before I go down that road, I want to note that the spark plug is not sparking. Should I still follow the checklist above, or is there something else I should do?
For the time being, leave the coil disconnected
The wire on the coil is a ground wire.
Without being grounded the coil should provide a nice spark at the plug.
I should have warned you to disconnect that wire before you start and pull the spark plug.
Most of the safety switches have 2 switches in the one housing
One side switches 12V so the solenoid energizes & the starter cranks the engine.
The other side grounds the coil to prevent the engine starting.
If there is more bare wiring there is a chance that the wires have shorted together.
On most tractors you will not get a spark if
1) the PTO is turned on
2) the brake is turned off
3) the mower is in reverse
the last thing I do before reconnecting the coil is to check there is no voltage on it when the engine is cranking and it goes to ground when the engine is turned off.
#13
J
jp1961
J
jp1961
Hello,
Obviously you had a mouse nest, but the wires almost look like the plastic shroud cover abraded the wires insulation away, the wear looks like the shroud did it.
Regards
Jeff
Obviously you had a mouse nest, but the wires almost look like the plastic shroud cover abraded the wires insulation away, the wear looks like the shroud did it.
Regards
Jeff
#14
K
Kimberly5
K
Kimberly5
Hello gentleman.
As noted previously, I replaced the wire to the carburetor as well as the ignition module. I gapped the magneto in accordance with the video and I also replaced the spark plug.
However, the engine would still not turn over. No audible sound was produced when I turned the key.
Next, I inspected the switches and wiring. I discovered a blown 20 A fuse. I replaced it.
The flywheel started turning upon turning the ignition!
However, the engine would still not start.
Next, I checked the oil. I found that the oil level was very low and the color of the oil was as black as the night.
Just now, I replaced the oil with 10W-30 oil and now the engine starts!
However, the engine is "popping" very loudly and frequently. It's also spewing smoke that hurts my lungs.
Any advice?
As noted previously, I replaced the wire to the carburetor as well as the ignition module. I gapped the magneto in accordance with the video and I also replaced the spark plug.
However, the engine would still not turn over. No audible sound was produced when I turned the key.
Next, I inspected the switches and wiring. I discovered a blown 20 A fuse. I replaced it.
The flywheel started turning upon turning the ignition!
However, the engine would still not start.
Next, I checked the oil. I found that the oil level was very low and the color of the oil was as black as the night.
Just now, I replaced the oil with 10W-30 oil and now the engine starts!
However, the engine is "popping" very loudly and frequently. It's also spewing smoke that hurts my lungs.
Any advice?
#15
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
What color is the smoke? How much oil did you put in?
#16
K
Kimberly5
Hello sir.
The color of the smoke is grey. I used about two quarts of oil.
K
Kimberly5
What color is the smoke? How much oil did you put in?
Hello sir.
The color of the smoke is grey. I used about two quarts of oil.
#17
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Oil capacity on the Courage 19 is 1.5-6 quarts.
i've always put right a quart and a half in my Courage 19 for 10 years...
so check it on the dipstick. (im sure you have) and if its full drain a little bit out at a time until you get it right.
as for the popping, its usually valves out of adjustment or worn camshaft lobes.
i've always put right a quart and a half in my Courage 19 for 10 years...
so check it on the dipstick. (im sure you have) and if its full drain a little bit out at a time until you get it right.
as for the popping, its usually valves out of adjustment or worn camshaft lobes.
#18
K
Kimberly5
Thank you! I was planning to adjust the valve gaps anyway, and now I have extra motivation.
One more question: I put 10W-30 oil in the engine, but I now see that the mower's operating manual recommends only 5W-30 or SAE 30, (the specific oil recommdation between the two depends on the temperature). Should I drain all the oil and switch to SAE 30, or is 10W-30 okay until my next change?
K
Kimberly5
Oil capacity on the Courage 19 is 1.5-6 quarts.
i've always put right a quart and a half in my Courage 19 for 10 years...
so check it on the dipstick. (im sure you have) and if its full drain a little bit out at a time until you get it right.
as for the popping, its usually valves out of adjustment or worn camshaft lobes.
Thank you! I was planning to adjust the valve gaps anyway, and now I have extra motivation.
One more question: I put 10W-30 oil in the engine, but I now see that the mower's operating manual recommends only 5W-30 or SAE 30, (the specific oil recommdation between the two depends on the temperature). Should I drain all the oil and switch to SAE 30, or is 10W-30 okay until my next change?
#19
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
I've ran 10W30 in my courage 19 for 10 years and not a problem at all.
Just be sure if you do check the valve clearance, order a new valve cover gasket and clean up the 2 gasket surfaces very good. This courage is prone to the gasket leaking.
Just be sure if you do check the valve clearance, order a new valve cover gasket and clean up the 2 gasket surfaces very good. This courage is prone to the gasket leaking.
#20
K
Kimberly5
Hello sirs. Today I adjusted the valve gaps.
The exhaust valve seemed good or even just a little tight.
The intake valve gap was huge. I adjusted it to 0.005 inches as the operating manual demanded.
I removed the old gasket cover and used "ultra black" sealant to form a new seal.
I then tried to start the mower. The smoke from the last attempt is gone. Perhaps this is because the old oil has burned up.
However, the engine is still popping and the engine is WEAK! I tried reversing and driving forward but the mower was moving very slowly.
Any suggestions?
K
Kimberly5
I've ran 10W30 in my courage 19 for 10 years and not a problem at all.
Just be sure if you do check the valve clearance, order a new valve cover gasket and clean up the 2 gasket surfaces very good. This courage is prone to the gasket leaking.
Hello sirs. Today I adjusted the valve gaps.
The exhaust valve seemed good or even just a little tight.
The intake valve gap was huge. I adjusted it to 0.005 inches as the operating manual demanded.
I removed the old gasket cover and used "ultra black" sealant to form a new seal.
I then tried to start the mower. The smoke from the last attempt is gone. Perhaps this is because the old oil has burned up.
However, the engine is still popping and the engine is WEAK! I tried reversing and driving forward but the mower was moving very slowly.
Any suggestions?
#21
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Was it at idle or full throttle when you drive it?
Could be a worn drive belt.
Could be a worn drive belt.
#22
K
Kimberly5
Could you please watch/listen to the following? I just recorded it. It really sounds like something is badly wrong with the engine but I don't know where to begin to fix it.
https://streamable.com/1qr03
K
Kimberly5
It was at full throttle. I think the owner replaced the drive belt within the past two years, but I will confirm.Was it at idle or full throttle when you drive it?
Could be a worn drive belt.
Could you please watch/listen to the following? I just recorded it. It really sounds like something is badly wrong with the engine but I don't know where to begin to fix it.
https://streamable.com/1qr03
#23
K
Kimberly5
Erm, I guess the throttle was in all the way, which was flooding the engine with gas. Pulling it back and now the mower is running VERY WELL! Thank you for all your help!
K
Kimberly5
It was at full throttle. I think the owner replaced the drive belt within the past two years, but I will confirm.
Could you please watch/listen to the following? I just recorded it. It really sounds like something is badly wrong with the engine but I don't know where to begin to fix it.
https://streamable.com/1qr03
Erm, I guess the throttle was in all the way, which was flooding the engine with gas. Pulling it back and now the mower is running VERY WELL! Thank you for all your help!