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Moller Rotomoa 660L

#1

S

spicedreams

Hi,
I have bought one of these large self-propelled walk-behind mowers to help tame a lot of rank Kikuyu grass in New Zealand.
The Briggs & Stratton 11.5HP starts well and gives plenty of power both for the blade and the wheels BUT
moller-rotomoa-660L.jpg
I think someone has put it back together wrong so that the drive belt mechanism to transfer power to the wheels does not work well.
moller-right-drivebelt.jpg
Power transfer works like this: the pulley wheel at the back is driven direct by the engine and always turns as the engine spins. But the drive belt is loose enough that it doesn't always get turned by the turning pulley wheel. To put power on to the main wheels, you have to pull up on a control rod (one rod each side for separate transfer to the two main wheels) which moves a lever which pushes a running wheel against the outside of the drive belt, tightening its grip on the pulley wheels either end and transferring power from the driving pulley to the driven pulley, and through a gear to the main wheel.

The control rods are attached to a cam on a handle like the brake handle of a bike. As I received the mower, the brake handles hung below the handlebar grip and the only way to get power to the main wheels was to pull the brake handle up past the handlebar until almost upright. This transferred power to the main wheel and the whole mower moves- it's just almost impossible to control. You need two hands on the handlebars and separate hands to manage the "brake handles".
moller-right-handle.jpgmoller-right-control.jpg
In the photo of the right handlebar, the "brake handle" is where I have moved it, above the handlebar grip. The control rod is above the handlebar throughout. Oriented like this, the "brake handle" pulls the control rod, which works the whole mechanism and looks like it should transfer power well to the right main wheel.

moller-left-control.jpg
The same layout does not work for the left side, though. It _looks like_ the control rod is identical to the right control rod, where it should be a mirror image. It does not seem able to go above the handlebar all the way along, or connect well to the left "brake handle", and doesn't pull the lever to engage the left side drive.

Does anyone know how this is meant to be connected up? Photos, or a manual, would be great.. Or some experience of a similar arrangement?


#2

S

spicedreams

I am thinking of replacing the left side control rod with a cable, such as a bicycle brake cable. Any comments whether that would work?


#3

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

I may be wrong and it wouldn't be the first time but it looks like someone assembled it wrong. The handles are on the wrong sides and they go under the handgrips. Can you get a better pic of the drive belt idler assy?


#4

F

foodforester

Hi, I have one of these 660 Rotomoas - running b&s 8hp IC engine, but everything else the same - the control levers ought to be parallel to the handlebar grips when disengaged and when engaged full speed they are all the way forward, resting on the horizontal tubing connecting the handlebars. I am happy to share photos of my set up - it works great. Let me know what you need photos of.....


#5

F

foodforester

Hi,
I have bought one of these large self-propelled walk-behind mowers to help tame a lot of rank Kikuyu grass in New Zealand.
The Briggs & Stratton 11.5HP starts well and gives plenty of power both for the blade and the wheels BUT
View attachment 55387
I think someone has put it back together wrong so that the drive belt mechanism to transfer power to the wheels does not work well.
View attachment 55389
Power transfer works like this: the pulley wheel at the back is driven direct by the engine and always turns as the engine spins. But the drive belt is loose enough that it doesn't always get turned by the turning pulley wheel. To put power on to the main wheels, you have to pull up on a control rod (one rod each side for separate transfer to the two main wheels) which moves a lever which pushes a running wheel against the outside of the drive belt, tightening its grip on the pulley wheels either end and transferring power from the driving pulley to the driven pulley, and through a gear to the main wheel.

The control rods are attached to a cam on a handle like the brake handle of a bike. As I received the mower, the brake handles hung below the handlebar grip and the only way to get power to the main wheels was to pull the brake handle up past the handlebar until almost upright. This transferred power to the main wheel and the whole mower moves- it's just almost impossible to control. You need two hands on the handlebars and separate hands to manage the "brake handles".
View attachment 55388View attachment 55390
In the photo of the right handlebar, the "brake handle" is where I have moved it, above the handlebar grip. The control rod is above the handlebar throughout. Oriented like this, the "brake handle" pulls the control rod, which works the whole mechanism and looks like it should transfer power well to the right main wheel.

View attachment 55391
The same layout does not work for the left side, though. It _looks like_ the control rod is identical to the right control rod, where it should be a mirror image. It does not seem able to go above the handlebar all the way along, or connect well to the left "brake handle", and doesn't pull the lever to engage the left side drive.

Does anyone know how this is meant to be connected up? Photos, or a manual, would be great.. Or some experience of a similar arrangement?
I do also have a manual - altho’ it is pretty rudimentary - will try to photograph and post over the next day or so ;)


#6

F

foodforester

Hi,
I have bought one of these large self-propelled walk-behind mowers to help tame a lot of rank Kikuyu grass in New Zealand.
The Briggs & Stratton 11.5HP starts well and gives plenty of power both for the blade and the wheels BUT
View attachment 55387
I think someone has put it back together wrong so that the drive belt mechanism to transfer power to the wheels does not work well.
View attachment 55389
Power transfer works like this: the pulley wheel at the back is driven direct by the engine and always turns as the engine spins. But the drive belt is loose enough that it doesn't always get turned by the turning pulley wheel. To put power on to the main wheels, you have to pull up on a control rod (one rod each side for separate transfer to the two main wheels) which moves a lever which pushes a running wheel against the outside of the drive belt, tightening its grip on the pulley wheels either end and transferring power from the driving pulley to the driven pulley, and through a gear to the main wheel.

The control rods are attached to a cam on a handle like the brake handle of a bike. As I received the mower, the brake handles hung below the handlebar grip and the only way to get power to the main wheels was to pull the brake handle up past the handlebar until almost upright. This transferred power to the main wheel and the whole mower moves- it's just almost impossible to control. You need two hands on the handlebars and separate hands to manage the "brake handles".
View attachment 55388View attachment 55390
In the photo of the right handlebar, the "brake handle" is where I have moved it, above the handlebar grip. The control rod is above the handlebar throughout. Oriented like this, the "brake handle" pulls the control rod, which works the whole mechanism and looks like it should transfer power well to the right main wheel.

View attachment 55391
The same layout does not work for the left side, though. It _looks like_ the control rod is identical to the right control rod, where it should be a mirror image. It does not seem able to go above the handlebar all the way along, or connect well to the left "brake handle", and doesn't pull the lever to engage the left side drive.

Does anyone know how this is meant to be connected up? Photos, or a manual, would be great.. Or some experience of a similar arrangement?
It surely is set up wrong, mine is super easy to control - it is possible to hold the handlebar grips and move the levers with just your thumbs to propel. If you want full throttle then the levers can be locked in position all the way forward, enabling you to grip the handlebars with your whole hand, thumb included.


#7

F

foodforester

Hi,
I have bought one of these large self-propelled walk-behind mowers to help tame a lot of rank Kikuyu grass in New Zealand.
The Briggs & Stratton 11.5HP starts well and gives plenty of power both for the blade and the wheels BUT
View attachment 55387
I think someone has put it back together wrong so that the drive belt mechanism to transfer power to the wheels does not work well.
View attachment 55389
Power transfer works like this: the pulley wheel at the back is driven direct by the engine and always turns as the engine spins. But the drive belt is loose enough that it doesn't always get turned by the turning pulley wheel. To put power on to the main wheels, you have to pull up on a control rod (one rod each side for separate transfer to the two main wheels) which moves a lever which pushes a running wheel against the outside of the drive belt, tightening its grip on the pulley wheels either end and transferring power from the driving pulley to the driven pulley, and through a gear to the main wheel.

The control rods are attached to a cam on a handle like the brake handle of a bike. As I received the mower, the brake handles hung below the handlebar grip and the only way to get power to the main wheels was to pull the brake handle up past the handlebar until almost upright. This transferred power to the main wheel and the whole mower moves- it's just almost impossible to control. You need two hands on the handlebars and separate hands to manage the "brake handles".
View attachment 55388View attachment 55390
In the photo of the right handlebar, the "brake handle" is where I have moved it, above the handlebar grip. The control rod is above the handlebar throughout. Oriented like this, the "brake handle" pulls the control rod, which works the whole mechanism and looks like it should transfer power well to the right main wheel.

View attachment 55391
The same layout does not work for the left side, though. It _looks like_ the control rod is identical to the right control rod, where it should be a mirror image. It does not seem able to go above the handlebar all the way along, or connect well to the left "brake handle", and doesn't pull the lever to engage the left side drive.

Does anyone know how this is meant to be connected up? Photos, or a manual, would be great.. Or some experience of a similar arrangement?
2741D7E8-08BB-4DC5-85BD-88C94BB47CFD.jpeg

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#8

F

foodforester

Here is the manual I have - happy to share higher resolution copies with you, but not sure how ! Let me know if that would help. I can also take photos of all the connections for the control levers, but haven’t had time to remove the mudguards today...


#9

W

waima1

Here is the manual I have - happy to share higher resolution copies with you, but not sure how ! Let me know if that would help. I can also take photos of all the connections for the control levers, but haven’t had time to remove the mudguards today...
Hi im trying to resurect my dads rotomoa 660 with the 8hp briggs.it was going wen parked up over 10 to 15 yrs ago but looks like its been fixed a few times and im not sure if the linkks arms and pulleys are on correctly.any pics you hav of deck set up would be great if possible.not much info on these about but i recall it was a graet machine wen it was going


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