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Magneto ground wire

#1

navydad2022

navydad2022

I disconnected the magneto ground wire and my mower started,l have a snapper riding mower and was trying to figure out what the problem is.once l connect wire back and it won't start.


#2

navydad2022

navydad2022

Could it be a ignition switch or safety switch.


#3

B

bertsmobile1

Yes
the ground wire is open circuit to run & closed circuit to stop
So you have to trace the wire back to find the faulty switch or short to ground
I find it easiest to clamp one lead of a test lamp to the battery + then probe to find a ground which of course illuminates the test lamp


#4

navydad2022

navydad2022

Yes
the ground wire is open circuit to run & closed circuit to stop
So you have to trace the wire back to find the faulty switch or short to ground
I find it easiest to clamp one lead of a test lamp to the battery + then probe to find a ground which of course illuminates the test lamp


#5

navydad2022

navydad2022

Thank you,I started by the magneto to check for spark,The ground wire attaches to a central location on side of engine and from there to solenoid.


#6

navydad2022

navydad2022

Thank you,I started by the magneto to check for spark,The ground wire attaches to a central location on side of engine and from there to solenoid.


#7

navydad2022

navydad2022

I'm a newbie on riding mowers, should I check ignition switch and safety switches,it starts fine when disconnect wire on magneto


#8

StarTech

StarTech

I'm a newbie on riding mowers, should I check ignition switch and safety switches,it starts fine when disconnect wire on magneto
Yes along the wiring especially if the kill wire run behind the starter as that is one place they get pinch when someone replaces the starter and don't pay attention to the wires.


#9

navydad2022

navydad2022

Yes along the wiring especially if the kill wire run behind the starter as that is one place they get pinch when someone replaces the starter and don't pay attention to the wires.
Hello Star Tech and Thank you for everything, did a little finessing on the Snapper 281223BVE.now the mower doesn't crank, check the ignition switch and the solenoid and this what l have going on.I have 12.89 voltage at solenoid connection and also at the starter connection.could the switch and solenoid be bad.


#10

navydad2022

navydad2022

Hello Star Tech and Thank you for everything, did a little finessing on the Snapper 281223BVE.now the mower doesn't crank, check the ignition switch and the solenoid and this what l have going on.I have 12.89 voltage at solenoid connection and also at the starter connection.could the switch and solenoid be bad.
Also checked the wire at the magneto connection no cuts.


#11

navydad2022

navydad2022

Also checked the wire at the magneto connection no cuts.
Also checked some safety switches, but l need one that's under the rear of mower and so far good.


#12

navydad2022

navydad2022

Yes
the ground wire is open circuit to run & closed circuit to stop
So you have to trace the wire back to find the faulty switch or short to ground
I find it easiest to clamp one lead of a test lamp to the battery + then probe to find a ground which of course illuminates the test lamp
What am looking for this riding mower stuff l'm learning as l go .For light not to come on or not.sorry


#13

navydad2022

navydad2022

My son bought me this awhile back while being deployed and got hurt, so this mower means a lot to me, just hurts me that l can't figure it out .Thank for your advice


#14

B

bertsmobile1

Open circuit = no light
Closed circuit = light
You should be able to get a wiring diagram from the website .


#15

F

Freddie21

Disconnect the mag wire, then jump a wire from the battery pos to the starter either at the starter or its connection on the solenoid. If it spins then, with the engine off, jump the battery pos to the small connection on the solenoid. May be a orange wire. If this works then there's a problem upstream with a safety or ign switch. If it doesn't kick the solenoid, the remove it and clean both the block and solenoid to get it a good ground.

What may be grounding the mag could also be stopping the solenoid from being energized. A safety or ign switch or pinched wire. If the starter has been replaced, remove it and check for any wires running behind it that may be pinched (common on Briggs).


#16

D

dinkster

I have seen some Mag. have a diode in the wiring if it goes bad you will have this problem. I am referring to the wire that you are disconnecting.


#17

S

slomo

That kill wire is grounding out, on something......... If you disconnect it, engine will drain the fuel tank right?

If you can't find it, replace it all.


#18

navydad2022

navydad2022

Disconnect the mag wire, then jump a wire from the battery pos to the starter either at the starter or its connection on the solenoid. If it spins then, with the engine off, jump the battery pos to the small connection on the solenoid. May be a orange wire. If this works then there's a problem upstream with a safety or ign switch. If it doesn't kick the solenoid, the remove it and clean both the block and solenoid to get it a good ground.

What may be grounding the mag could also be stopping the solenoid from being energized. A safety or ign switch or pinched wire. If the starter has been replaced, remove it and check for any wires running behind it that may be pinched (common on Briggs).
Thank you,🤞


#19

navydad2022

navydad2022

Yes
the ground wire is open circuit to run & closed circuit to stop
So you have to trace the wire back to find the faulty switch or short to ground
I find it easiest to clamp one lead of a test lamp to the battery + then probe to find a ground which of course illuminates the test lamp
I got a test lamp,if l probe the ground wire connections should it light up to suspect a faulty ground.one end to post on battery and probe the ground connections.


#20

navydad2022

navydad2022

I disconnected the magneto ground wire and my mower started,l have a snapper riding mower and was trying to figure out what the problem is.once l connect wire back and it won't start.
Sorry for not getting back with you all,l had a sister pass away and my mind wasn't on the Snapper 😢


#21

navydad2022

navydad2022

That kill wire is grounding out, on something......... If you disconnect it, engine will drain the fuel tank right?

If you can't find it, replace it all.
Yes,


#22

B

bertsmobile1

you are looking for ground where there should not be on so the clip goes on the battery + and you probe the wires
If the lamp lights up that is a fail if it stays out that is a pass


#23

navydad2022

navydad2022

you are looking for ground where there should not be on so the clip goes on the battery + and you probe the wires
If the lamp lights up that is a fail if it stays out that is a pass
Thank you very much


#24

navydad2022

navydad2022

I did a little probing,l replaced the solenoid just in case and l was probing the wire from magneto and disconnected from ground on side of engine and it lighted up along with the wires that connected from ignition switch,safety switch module,and Magento.Are those suppose to be lighted.still only hear magneto click and no starter.l am fixing to retest the starter.lf it turns from jumping it and it turns , what should I check next.
you are looking for ground where there should not be on so the clip goes on the battery + and you probe the wires
If the lamp lights up that is a fail if it stays out that is a pass


#25

S

slomo

Most of the time, maybe not yours, is the starter solenoid. It is the contact for the main amperage to turn the starter/engine over. It takes all the heat and such. When you replace a starter, you should replace the starter solenoid. Again his might not be your issue. Just talking out loud.


#26

navydad2022

navydad2022

Most of the time, maybe not yours, is the starter solenoid. It is the contact for the main amperage to turn the starter/engine over. It takes all the heat and such. When you replace a starter, you should replace the starter solenoid. Again his might not be your issue. Just talking out loud.
I replaced the solenoid,is there a part inside the starter l can replace.


#27

H

hlw49

looks like it has a fuse and an INTERLOCK MODULE, Briggs 7028606YP If all the other switches check out I would suspect the interlock module. Not sure how to or if you can check it.


#28

navydad2022

navydad2022

I disconnected the kill wire to magneto and tested it and light came on the test lamp.what puzzles me is that l replaced solenoid just in case and hear click and nothing on starter.should l be connecting to negative on battery for testing.


#29

navydad2022

navydad2022

looks like it has a fuse and an INTERLOCK MODULE, Briggs 7028606YP If all the other switches check out I would suspect the interlock module. Not sure how to or if you can check it.
I don't have a clue sorry


#30

navydad2022

navydad2022

Thank you very much
Should l be probing the switches for test,l connected to post and touched the side of engine and it lights up same with magneto wire coming to grounding in side of engine.


#31

navydad2022

navydad2022

Now it won't crank over


#32

H

hlw49

What kind of test light are you using? Is it a light with a battery or one where you have to have current from the wiring on the engine?


#33

navydad2022

navydad2022

What kind of test light are you using? Is it a light with a battery or one where you have to have current from the wiring on the engine?
One l that have to connect to battery pos or neg,


#34

H

hlw49

So sorry for your loss.


#35

navydad2022

navydad2022

So sorry for your loss.
Thank you, l'm just lost with this mower ,l put a new solenoid just for piece of mind.But now my mower clicks and no action on starter.l guess with my loss and this going on is getting to me.


#36

H

hlw49

That can happen. Will keep you and yours in our prayers.


#37

navydad2022

navydad2022

That can happen. Will keep you and yours in our prayers.
Thank you,Have a safe and happy holiday


#38

B

bertsmobile1

Looks like this is yet to be resolved
So we might start again
If you read the snapper model number correctly then the wiring diagram should be as under
  snapper wiring.jpg
So when you turn the key to start battery power should go from the S terminal on the switch via the blue wire to trigger the solenoid
Because electricity has to make a full loop the solenoid trigger makes a ground contact to the frame.
When this happens the solenoid connects the heavy red & black cables on the solenoid to send high current to the starter to turn it .
Normally that blue wire would go through a couple of switches to prevent the engine cranking if the blades are engaged , brake is not on, drive is not in neutral.
But according to this diagram, it is a direct connection

Taking a step back the battery power to the B terminal on the key switch comes from the battery via the solenoid, through a fuse.
A common mistake is to put the mower power feed on the switched terminal on the solenoid ( the heavy cable that goes to the starter motor )

So for a no crank situation you need to check for voltage from the battery + to the solenoid , to the fuse, to the B terminal to the S terminal ( when key is in start position ) to the trigger terminal ( blue wire ) on the solenoid .

To double check the solenoid run a jumper from the red CABLE to the terminal the blue wire is on
Engine should crank
If not check the body of the solenoid is ground

Now for the fun bit, the no start
The black (ignition ground =kill ) wire can go to ground 3 ways
1) direct connection to ground via the key switch ( M + G )
The following assumes the T shaped outlines are supposed to be wire plugs
2) via the seat switch and pedal switch.
Note if the plug on the seat switch is disconnected or not fully connected that counts as no one in the seat
3) via the PTO switch Pedal switch & module ( can't really see what the module does unless it also turns the blades off .


#39

navydad2022

navydad2022

Looks like this is yet to be resolved
So we might start again
If you read the snapper model number correctly then the wiring diagram should be as under
View attachment 63064
So when you turn the key to start battery power should go from the S terminal on the switch via the blue wire to trigger the solenoid
Because electricity has to make a full loop the solenoid trigger makes a ground contact to the frame.
When this happens the solenoid connects the heavy red & black cables on the solenoid to send high current to the starter to turn it .
Normally that blue wire would go through a couple of switches to prevent the engine cranking if the blades are engaged , brake is not on, drive is not in neutral.
But according to this diagram, it is a direct connection

Taking a step back the battery power to the B terminal on the key switch comes from the battery via the solenoid, through a fuse.
A common mistake is to put the mower power feed on the switched terminal on the solenoid ( the heavy cable that goes to the starter motor )

So for a no crank situation you need to check for voltage from the battery + to the solenoid , to the fuse, to the B terminal to the S terminal ( when key is in start position ) to the trigger terminal ( blue wire ) on the solenoid .

To double check the solenoid run a jumper from the red CABLE to the terminal the blue wire is on
Engine should crank
If not check the body of the solenoid is ground

Now for the fun bit, the no start
The black (ignition ground =kill ) wire can go to ground 3 ways
1) direct connection to ground via the key switch ( M + G )
The following assumes the T shaped outlines are supposed to be wire plugs
2) via the seat switch and pedal switch.
Note if the plug on the seat switch is disconnected or not fully connected that counts as no one in the seat
3) via the PTO switch Pedal switch & module ( can't really see what the module does unless it also turns the blades off .
Thank you, I'll give it a try and get back with you.l bought a new solenoid just in case and put it on.battery is new and next changing switch for piece of mind 🙏


#40

navydad2022

navydad2022

Looks like this is yet to be resolved
So we might start again
If you read the snapper model number correctly then the wiring diagram should be as under
View attachment 63064
So when you turn the key to start battery power should go from the S terminal on the switch via the blue wire to trigger the solenoid
Because electricity has to make a full loop the solenoid trigger makes a ground contact to the frame.
When this happens the solenoid connects the heavy red & black cables on the solenoid to send high current to the starter to turn it .
Normally that blue wire would go through a couple of switches to prevent the engine cranking if the blades are engaged , brake is not on, drive is not in neutral.
But according to this diagram, it is a direct connection

Taking a step back the battery power to the B terminal on the key switch comes from the battery via the solenoid, through a fuse.
A common mistake is to put the mower power feed on the switched terminal on the solenoid ( the heavy cable that goes to the starter motor )

So for a no crank situation you need to check for voltage from the battery + to the solenoid , to the fuse, to the B terminal to the S terminal ( when key is in start position ) to the trigger terminal ( blue wire ) on the solenoid .

To double check the solenoid run a jumper from the red CABLE to the terminal the blue wire is on
Engine should crank
If not check the body of the solenoid is ground

Now for the fun bit, the no start
The black (ignition ground =kill ) wire can go to ground 3 ways
1) direct connection to ground via the key switch ( M + G )
The following assumes the T shaped outlines are supposed to be wire plugs
2) via the seat switch and pedal switch.
Note if the plug on the seat switch is disconnected or not fully connected that counts as no one in the seat
3) via the PTO switch Pedal switch & module ( can't really see what the module does unless it also turns the blades off .
I solved the mystery on this issue finally .it was blade engagement switch that was acting up and replaced it.Now it's good, tried it out and no issues.But l have another one that was using and it reviving up high all of a sudden.could be the governor inside gone bad.thank you for helping me on Snapper.


#41

B

bertsmobile1

I solved the mystery on this issue finally .it was blade engagement switch that was acting up and replaced it.Now it's good, tried it out and no issues.But l have another one that was using and it reviving up high all of a sudden.could be the governor inside gone bad.thank you for helping me on Snapper.
Yes
Uncontrolled high revs is the governor
Hopefully the arm has just come loose so reset it .
Don't let the engine race because they will trow the con rod little ends as the can rods are only just strong enough to resist the low speed tensile stress on the little ends.


#42

navydad2022

navydad2022

Yes
Uncontrolled high revs is the governor
Hopefully the arm has just come loose so reset it .
Don't let the engine race because they will trow the con rod little ends as the can rods are only just strong enough to resist the low speed tensile stress on the little ends.
Open the engine up and replaced governor?


#43

navydad2022

navydad2022

Open the engine up and replaced governor?
It turns on but revs to high


#44

B

bertsmobile1

Hopefully the arm has just come loose so reset it .


#45

navydad2022

navydad2022

Hopefully the arm has just come loose so reset it .
Thank you, going to get on it and hopefully it's not bad


#46

navydad2022

navydad2022

Thank you, going to get on it and hopefully it's not bad
I adjusted it on the outside but no luck


#47

S

slomo

Hold the throttle plate near closed with your finger. See if the governor linkage is trying to CLOSE the throttle plate at high revs.


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