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Hi ....I have a LTH 130 that I'm in the process of getting to run. The mower is in good condition, but after a few minutes running it will not power up even the slightest incline. I have been told that this may be due to the hydrostatic pump, or even just a change of hydraulic oil would solve the problem. Curious to find out what you guys think? Also, the battery currently shows a charge of 13.6V, but when the key is turned the voltmeter on the dash does not move, and the motor does not turn over...not even a click. Any one that can give me some troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

The first thing I would check on the drive problem is the belt and drive belt idler pulley. A worn belt and/or an idler pulley that does not move freely is a common cause. Here is a procedure to diagnosis your electrical problem.



Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks Rivetts...will follow to the letter:smile:.....one question I have is where to find the fuse(s)...I've followed wires but cannot seem to find any?
I'll report back with my findings.....thanks.

Usually on the red wire that goes to the ignition switch

Haven't managed to start the procedure yet but while poking around trying to find the fuse, I tried to start the motor again and got a whirring noise...battery showed 12.7 v so I'm thinking the battery is shot and perhaps has no cranking amps? Should I replace the battery and try again, or just proceed with the diagnostics outlined above? BTW, the cluster of wires located behind the ignition switch does NOT contain a fuse, despite what the manual says.
Thanks

If the spinning sound is coming from the starter, no need to go through the entire procedure at this time. Just the first step. I understand no fuse, but I suspect that you have a loose and/or corroded connection somewhere. After the battery I would check the connection where the negative cable is attached to the chassis. Let us know what you find.

Just an update...the battery was checked and was low on cranking amps, so I've got a new battery that's just been put on charge. When it's re-installed I'll find out if I still have a starting issue, and if so will carry out the diagnostic tests and report back.
Thanks for your patience and help.

Further update....new battery hooked up....same problem....whirring noise when key turned on. Power between the two positive red cables in and out of the solenoid reads 13.2 both sides...have to wait for the wife to test the voltage between the small wires on the solenoid. Have attached pics.....where on the starter (2nd photo) should I place the black voltmeter tester to get a reading?
Thanks

No need to check the control wires.
If the starter spins they are fine.
Pull the cowl off the engine and watch the starter pinion / gear.
I suspect that it is not meshing with the flywheel.
A simple fix, gear and the bendex drive ( the bit that makes it go up & drop back ) are replacement service items.

***Pull the cowl off the engine and watch the starter pinion / gear.
I suspect that it is not meshing with the flywheel.***

Thanks....could you maybe direct me as to where I'll find the starter pinion /gear....do I have to take the starter apart to see this?
Thanks

Starter gear is on the end of the starter shaft. Once you remove the shroud you will see it.

Thanks guys....sorry for the delayed update but it is indeed the starter gear not engaging with the flywheel....now do I remove the whole starter or the split ring at the top of it to remove the gear? Both gears seem fine, so I'm not sure why they are not meshing?
Thanks

There won't be enough clearance to remove the gear without at least loosening the starter.

Thanks Ilengine...but is that the method I should use, or should I replace the whole starter? Not really sure how to proceed?
Thanks

trooper1954 said:

Thanks Ilengine...but is that the method I should use, or should I replace the whole starter? Not really sure how to proceed?
Thanks

Click to expand...

Auto parts store will test starters for free...not sure about a mower starter, but you could ask.

If it tests bad, I would price a new one, as your level of expertise seems to be more toward a starter swap than a rebuild of the starter.

But for experience you could break it down and try to rebuild it. You would probably never use that experience again.

Drive gear is about $ 5, whole Bendix is about $ 20 complete starter is about $ 100.
You know your own wallet, mechanical skills and time pressures.

Update....loosened off the starter and visually checked the gear...it's worn, but not excessively....then I noticed the flywheel where the starter gear should meet it has two cogs missing....a flat spot. I turned it manually to a different spot, turned the ignition and the mower fired up. My question is, is it normal to have a flywheel with such a flat spot, and if not, should I replace the flywheel?
Thanks all.

No there should be a complete circle of teeth all of equal length.
If it is an alloy ring gear it is replaeable if it is cast iron it will be a replacement flywheel

Thanks Bert... any idea of the process to get at the flywheel, and if so, will it be obvious whether it's a cast flywheel or otherwise?
I'd like to get to it so I can determine what to replace?
Thanks.

Iron & steel will stick to a magnet
Alloy will not when you get it off it will be obvious.
no bolts means it does not come apart.

To pull the flywheel I use a two leg puller & rattle gun as I have had far too many "genuine B & S " pullers strip out the thread.
Een worse the ner ones are not threadded so by the time you thread the holes, find some high tensile bolts , it is faster to use the 2 leg puller.

Thanks Bert....just wondering now if changing out the flywheel gear is really necessary? If the mower starts and runs fine once I manually turn the flywheel from the flat spot, will I do any harm running the mower like this for now?
Also, I'm now ready to look into the other issue I had....once the mower gets warmed up it loses power and will not climb the slightest incline. I'd like to change the oil in the transaxle and was wondering if anyone has a step by step for this? Do I have to remove the transaxle to achieve this, or can it be drained and re-filled while still on the mower? It's a Hydro-Gear 310-0500
Thanks for any and all help.

Eventually it will eat up the gear on the starter but no, if it works for you then fine.

Thanks again Bert...think I've worked out what/how to disconnect the transaxle from the mower...will block the front wheels and use a hoist to lift the back end up and then take the transaxle out. I'll start with draining the oil if I can find some sort of filler/drain...I was told this unit was sealed at the factory so this will be a challenge Will let you all know how it goes