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Plenty of battery power. Turning key, seem to hear starter fire but doesn't turn engine. I just keep on turning the key off and on until it cranks it over then starts easily. Is this a starter perhaps something else ?

dcove said:

Plenty of battery power. Turning key, seem to hear starter fire but doesn't turn engine. I just keep on turning the key off and on until it cranks it over then starts easily. Is this a starter perhaps something else ?

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As long as you have 12 volts at the starter, I would suspect the starter bendix drive is wearing out.
That is the part of the starter that moves the gear up against the flywheel ring gear.
Very common on Kohler bendix drive starters.
The bendix drive used to be available as a kit, but when I just looked it up, the part number subbed to a starter.
We usually replace the starters here at the shop because you will get almost the price of a starter once you pay the labor to repair the old one.
And lubing the bendix is not a good idea. It may get you through for a little while, but it's only a bandaid and not a fix.

Realistically, what should a starter cost. Saw some absurd price on a JDparts site ( $250 )

dcove said:

Realistically, what should a starter cost. Saw some absurd price on a JDparts site ( $250 )

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Tell the dealer you want the starter through their supplier called A&I. Much cheaper!

So dealer said $280 new, $240 refurb...knows not of A+I. Ordered on Amazon for $45.....
Thanks again for your help !

dcove said:

So dealer said $280 new, $240 refurb...knows not of A+I. Ordered on Amazon for $45.....
Thanks again for your help !

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You're welcome! I guess not all dealers work with that company. If this were my tractor, I would have done exactly as you did.

Good luck with a $ 45 cheapie.
Do not be surprised if it packs it in after a few seasons.
The aftermarket parts companies sell guaranteed starters for about 1/2 the price of a new one .
Prime Line has the best range.
I have never had a problem fitting any of their starters.
However the "super Heavy Duty " ones on line, with no makers name or identifing marks on them generally fail in a few seasons.

So this weekend I replaced the starter and the same thing is happening. I am starting to question the CCA of the battery but when it does kick the starter on there is plenty of starting power. Confused....

dcove said:

So this weekend I replaced the starter and the same thing is happening. I am starting to question the CCA of the battery but when it does kick the starter on there is plenty of starting power. Confused....

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I was assuming you had the battery checked before replacing the starter. Have someone test your battery and see how many CCA's are in it. I would recommend 300 CCA's minimum. Also, check your battery cable for corrosion. If the corrosion has gotten to where the terminal end is crimped onto the cable, replace the cable.

Most auto part stores (orielly,autozone,advance,) should be able to test your battery for free.

The thing is, like I said once the starter does kick in it cranks pretty robustly.....

dcove said:

The thing is, like I said once the starter does kick in it cranks pretty robustly.....

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Can you connect a voltage meter to the starter when you try to crank it and give me the voltage reading? I'm wondering if you're not getting a random voltage drop through your solenoid or safety switches. Those solenoids mounted below the battery can be problematic. It is possible that the contacts inside the solenoid are oxidized and burned to the point that they aren't transferring enough voltage and amperage everytime. I have replaced many solenoids on this model series for that issue. The solenoid will click as normal, but not always transfer the full voltage to the starter.

Get a heavy jumper lead and run it from the battery - to a good ground on the engine.
Problem goes away = bad ground

So no voltage at started when clicking, must be the solenoid clicking if that's what is clicking cause it's not the starter making the noise. Should have checked this before starter purchase. Change Solenoid ?

dcove said:

So no voltage at started when clicking, must be the solenoid clicking if that's what is clicking cause it's not the starter making the noise. Should have checked this before starter purchase. Change Solenoid ?

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Follow your positive battery cable. It will be bolted to the solenoid. The other identical thick red cable on the solenoid goes out to your starter.
If you have full voltage going into the solenoid via the cable coming from the battery, but no voltage in the cable going out to the starter (test with key in start position, solenoid should click), replace the solenoid. I have seen this many times.

dcove said:

Plenty of battery power. Turning key, seem to hear starter fire but doesn't turn engine. I just keep on turning the key off and on until it cranks it over then starts easily. Is this a starter perhaps something else ?

Click to expand...

Did you ever find out the problem. if not you need to check the valve adjustment. If valves are not adjusted properly this will cause hard starting as the engine is hard to turn. Try rotating engine by hand and see how hard it is to turn, if very hard adjust valves. I had this happen several times.

rocky4 said:

Did you ever find out the problem. if not you need to check the valve adjustment. If valves are not adjusted properly this will cause hard starting as the engine is hard to turn. Try rotating engine by hand and see how hard it is to turn, if very hard adjust valves. I had this happen several times.

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LT155 has a Kohler engine with hydraulic lifters. It isn't adjustable as a solid lifter engine would be.