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well ..Same story as usual
The neighbor is done with it ,wont start
Where to start with this guy? neigbor says it did run . Thank you

That’s clean compared to some of the stuff which come into our shop.

Thank you Rivet,
what would you do first to get it running?

If it has oil in it, I would remove the air filter and squirt some carb cleaner in the air horn. If it fires, I would drain the fuel, loosen, not remove, the jet on the bottom of the carb to drain the fuel out of the bowl then tighten. Put in fuel and see if it will running. If it fails to fire with carb cleaner, I would check for spark.

Thank you will do
i will check in after i do that / :smile:

I agree with Rivet's ................ Also I will add one thing........... If it does run then don't run it for long, check for nests under the air shroud.... Looks like it has been setting and I see some grass in that area .........

IF ... someone is going to clean it up somewhat, they need to take pics of the make, model, etc information stickers, or at least write them down, the stickers don't hold-up very well with some cleaning agents, makes it a real PITA when trying to get help, or parts/service.. (just a thought) .. I usually try to cover with a plastic film, putting any tape on them directly,.. will sometimes mess them up also, :thumbsup:

Boobala said:

IF ... someone is going to clean it up somewhat, they need to take pics of the make, model, etc information stickers, or at least write them down, the stickers don't hold-up very well with some cleaning agents, makes it a real PITA when trying to get help, or parts/service.. (just a thought) .. I usually try to cover with a plastic film, putting any tape on them directly,.. will sometimes mess them up also, :thumbsup:

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He posted pics of the stickers on his initial post.

John Fitzgerald said:

He posted pics of the stickers on his initial post.

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I saw them John, THAT'S why I mentioned about trying to preserve them somehow .... NO BIGGIE !! .. :thumbsup:

Rivets said:

If it has oil in it, I would remove the air filter and squirt some carb cleaner in the air horn. If it fires, I would drain the fuel, loosen, not remove, the jet on the bottom of the carb to drain the fuel out of the bowl then tighten. Put in fuel and see if it will running. If it fails to fire with carb cleaner, I would check for spark.

Click to expand...

It did have freash oil in it. and a brand new spark plug.
I sprayed some carb cleaner down the air horn.
1st problem: every time i pull on the string the lawn mower pulls forward.

2nd problem: in one of the pictures the handle bar has 2 push down leavers, what do those do exactly???

3rd problem: no spark from plug at all.

The half bar runs the wheels. Do not use that to start. Full bar is needed to start the mower.

BlazNT said:

The half bar runs the wheels. Do not use that to start. Full bar is needed to start the mower.

Click to expand...

Thank you BlazNt
that solves one problem. any idea why it lurches forward when i pull the string?

ice said:

Thank you BlazNt
that solves one problem. any idea why it lurches forward when i pull the string?

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Check the cable that connects to the half bar at both ends and make sure it is moving like it should. It could be locked in gear.

BlazNT said:

Check the cable that connects to the half bar at both ends and make sure it is moving like it should. It could be locked in gear.

Click to expand...

Hi BlazNT and all that are following and helping.
The cable that connects to the half-bar has so much slack that I don't think its working. The slack is at the very top of bar bracket. see pictures.
Upon a closer look, there are 2 cables coming out of the throttle control, which is also jammed. after tracing the cables I found that there are both kinked beyond repair.
Any ideas where i can order the 2 cables from? A part number if someone has it would be great. Thank you to all

it is a good thing you will not need this for a few days it is a good winter project.

Sorry for the late reply but I am not getting my e-mails for this site.

Lawn mower speed control assembly Part #: 178916
Lawn mower drive control cable Part #: 179049

This is for the other handle.
Lawn mower zone control cable Part #: 161586

Go to auto parts store or Walmart and get some PB Blaster and start spraying the other end of all the cables so when yo replace them the new ones will not kink either.

Good evening to all
The saga continues. went and took off the cables. To my surprise, it was not the cables but the throttle box. took it off the handlebar easy(one bolt) enough, But jimmine Xmas the throttle box itself was a pain to open up. it sounded like i broke it but i didnt. Long story short the cabels work just fine and i lube them up good.
But I have some questions again. when I pull down the(small one) handlebar that engages the gear drive to the tires it engages but when I release it there is no spring to disengage pully. is that normal?

Now for the other side. The big handlebar seems to be connected to nothing.... help. Also, the carborator has no linkage. I think it is missing some pices?

ice said:

Good evening to all
The saga continues. went and took off the cables. To my surprise, it was not the cables but the throttle box. took it off the handlebar easy(one bolt) enough, But jimmine Xmas the throttle box itself was a pain to open up. it sounded like i broke it but i didnt. Long story short the cabels work just fine and i lube them up good.
But I have some questions again. when I pull down the(View attachment 41787View attachment 41788View attachment 41789small one) handlebar that engages the gear drive to the tires it engages but when I release it there is no spring to disengage pully. is that normal?

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The belts tension is the spring to loosen it. No worries there.

ice said:

Now for the other side. The big handlebar seems to be connected to nothing.... help. Also,View attachment 41790View attachment 41791View attachment 41792View attachment 41793 the carborator has no linkage. I think it is missing some pices?

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We need the engine model number. This will get us more to work with.

thank you for your help. These are all the numbers I can fine

From what I see you have all the linkage.
https://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P0203036-00001.png

BlazNT said:

We need the engine model number. This will get us more to work with.

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HERE WE GO ...AGAIN ....... DOUBLE POSTING ... PITA !!!

Boobala said:

HERE WE GO ...AGAIN ....... DOUBLE POSTING ... PITA !!!

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Naw just a different issue on the same mower BUT the same pics for the numbers....The other thread is for the kill cluster and spark.....

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Hi folks, Sorry for a long time it takes me to reply but the mower keeps falling to the backburner. Long story short I got it running. But running very weak.
The issue is all carburation. I get it running and I constantly have to keep adjusting the throttle lever so it will not die an doesnt have enough power to cut lawn without stalling. out

So does the linkage right to all?
I have noticed the throttle cable does not go to the carborator . Am I missing a cable? . these are the pics of where all the cables are going

I don't think you have a throttle control on the handle ..... Most of those type mowers are just one speed ..... I don't think that is the right spring..... It looks odd......

I don't remember all what you did to that mower... Did you go thru the carb and give it a good cleaning with a kit ????

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

ice said:

So does the linkage right to all?
I have noticed the throttle cable does not go to the carborator . Am I missing a cable? View attachment 42179View attachment 42180View attachment 42181View attachment 42182. these are the pics of where all the cables are going

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There are engines without throttles from the factory, yours may be one.

Does the handle (that you would hold on to) have a throttle lever? If not, you don't have an adjustable throttle.

The second picture, with the pen and drive wheel, spring doesn't look right. Is the outside end of that cable bolted down to the frame? Also, when it is activated / pulled, does it tighten the belt?

some more pictures - hopefully it helps out.

SRTsFZ6 said:

There are engines without throttles from the factory, yours may be one.

Does the handle (that you would hold on to) have a throttle lever? If not, you don't have an adjustable throttle.

The second picture, with the pen and drive wheel, spring doesn't look right. Is the outside end of that cable bolted down to the frame? Also, when it is activated / pulled, does it tighten the belt?

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Hi SRTsFZ6
the spring with the pen in the 2 nd picture is on a mount sloted to fit the cable. I will take a better pic tonight But yes When i push hand leaver down it tightens the belt and the mower moves forward.

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

I don't think you have a throttle control on the handle ..... Most of those type mowers are just one speed ..... I don't think that is the right spring..... It looks odd......

I don't remember all what you did to that mower... Did you go thru the carb and give it a good cleaning with a kit ????

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Click to expand...

Hi Boudreaux,
I did take off the bowl and cleand out the bolt with a sweing pin. I dont think it is the carb becuse it runs. I do think It is the linkage though.
Even with the factory numbers i can not seem to find the model i have . I would like to see detail pictures of the carb and the linkage.I need to order the air filter also.maybe a new carb also if need be.

Carb linkages appear to be in the correct positions, the small spring is stretched out of shape and so the engine may not be running at the correct rpm. and that is a single fixed speed engine, looks like the vertical tab that is connects to has been bent to try to compensate for lack of spring control. So if you replace that spring you will need to readjust the engine rpm.

917.377650 Mower model number
143026706 Engine model number


Air Filter
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/pa...26706&categoryName=Engine&brandName=CRAFTSMAN

As stated, the carb has the linkage hooked up correctly, but it definitely needs to be removed and given a good cleaning. I would replace the needle and seat (part number 631021B) and that air filter ( part number 36905) which has not been serviced in years. Until you do so you’ll be just wasting your time. Your statement, “it runs so it can’t be the carb” is totally wrong as the carb is not working properly if you must play with the throttle.

Thank you all so much:thumbsup::wink: for all your help.
I think I will just replace the whole carb if anyone knows the carb part number i would be most thankful. If I order the whole carb will it come with a new spring?

Carb part number 640350 price around $60.
Spring number 36281 price around $5
Needle and seat 631021B price around &5
Air filter number 36905 price around $15
Gasket number 25756 price around $6
Manual on this site. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Te...P-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf

Carb will not come with the spring, must order separately. You are running yourself in circles not knowing how everything works together. Read the manual first and then decide how to proceed. Don’t second guess the techs on this site, they have seen your unit many times and know from experience what they are telling you. The problem you are describing is very common, as is the solution.

Thank you so much, Mr.Rivets
You are so right- I am going in circles. I will order the parts as you recommend. Thank you so much for your and all on here for there expertise. I will post when the parts come in next week- again many thanks to this site and the people here that help

If you order the carb you don’t need the needle and seat, and vice/versa.

Good evening all :laughing:
Good news - some of the parts came in. it looks like it was the car seat and pin- fired right up

So all is working on the lawn mower
But--- There is always a but lol. the whole problem that started with this mower. This darn green ground wire- I just want to replace the part. So the question is what is the name of this part? what is the part number if anyone has it. and how in the word do i put the part on? it goes under the flywheel.

Lawn & Garden Equipment Engine Ground Wire Part# 37047
It is number 110 on the diagram.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/143026706/0247/1503500.html

If the engine turns off as it is supposed to then it is installed correctly.

If it works ...... DON'T fix it !! .. :thumbsup:

Boobala said:

If it works ...... DON'T fix it !! .. :thumbsup:

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Plus 1 ^^^.

That wire should attach to the coil, opposite the ignition wire: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/2yxtzvkt36-0071-143

The OEM wire IS Green (as yours is)..

Good evening to all
After closer inspection, the green wire is in pretty good shape. I know that it plugs into the coil. Where does the other end plug into? None of the diagrams show where the other end opposite the coil end plugs into.

Ok - I just saw a video on youtube of someone pulling off the flywheel. and low and behold there was the green wire!. But it was connected to a small plastic rectangle.
I would like to order the whole part including the plastic rectangle if some knows the part number please and thank you to all for all your help,:thumbsup:

ice said:

Ok - I just saw a video on youtube of someone pulling off the flywheel. and low and behold there was the green wire!. But it was connected to a small plastic rectangle.
I would like to order the whole part including the plastic rectangle if some knows the part number please and thank you to all for all your help,:thumbsup:

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Ice.......... The green wire as you saw goes to the coil and the other side is hooked to that brake kill assembly In one of your pics it's already hooked up....

I already sent you a lot of info on your other thread in post # 17 Air filter and something else..... But here's another link to your engine parts....... It's not real clear though......

I'll try to find you another link also........

www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/143026706/0247/1503500.html

Here is the part that the wire goes to at that brake cable.... The cable works this part and it's already on your mower....

www.searspartsdirect.com/product/5y43s56a3w-0071-143

I don't think that link is good anymore ....

But in the parts list it's # 195

SRT I don't think your link is good neither.......... It says Error page like mine did .........

ice said:

Ok - I just saw a video on youtube of someone pulling off the flywheel. and low and behold there was the green wire!. But it was connected to a small plastic rectangle.
I would like to order the whole part including the plastic rectangle if some knows the part number please and thank you to all for all your help,:thumbsup:

Click to expand...

Page 61 (in the manual already posted), shows the BRAKE ASSEMBLY (BRAKE pad is INSIDE the flywheel).

The other end of the kill wire connects there, to the square piece.

As long as the engine stops when it should, there's NO reason to replace it. It's a simple piece of plastic and "springy retainer" that holds the wire in place.

When the engine kill bar is released, the mechanism shorts out that wire (killing the ignition, the internal((to the flywheel)) ), is spring loaded, pops out and stops the engine from rotating quickly (for safety).

As noted earlier, if the engine turns off immediately, stops spinning quickly, the mechanism/wire is fine. Don't mess with it, no reason to...

Might degrease the engine before buttoning up...

Hi to all
The mower does not stop when I release the handle. I have to turn off by mower with the butterfly with my finger on the carb to turn off.
The neighbor said he had a mower like this he said just add a throttle($10.00) control cable. and end this pain. lol
I think I will take the neighbor advice.

ice said:

Hi to all
The mower does not stop when I release the handle. I have to turn off by mower with the butterfly with my finger on the carb to turn off.
The neighbor said he had a mower like this he said just add a throttle($10.00) control cable. and end this pain. lol
I think I will take the neighbor advice.

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Ice........... NO you cannot just add a throttle cable for 10 bux..... There's more to it than that .... If you release the BAIL handle and it doesn't do anything then there is something wrong with it or the kill wire .....

ICE we have been here with you for your whole progress holding your hand so to say..... So you need to listen to us....

We or most of us have shops and do this for a living.... You need to take off the air shroud and look at the flywheel.... The part listed in the diagram is 191 that is your brake pad and part of your kill mechanism....

You have something wrong with your set up......

Hooking up a throttle is possible but not for ten bux and you still won't have a kill switch......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Ice watch this video and go to the 5:27 mark into the video you will see your brake assembly..........It's not the best clear video but you will get the idea...........

https://youtu.be/QuI7cLa_fk4

I found you another video made by the same guy..... A lot clearer too......... Watch starting at 4:21 or just start at the beginning ..........

https://youtu.be/FwBMBRk852M

Plus 1 on the above posts. You can't just add a throttle lever W/O other add on parts.
Your set up is very simple, works and really no reason to change it...


*If your the only one using the mower, a suggestion, for a simple "fix / mod".

On my Snapper, self propelled walk behind mower, I removed the safety bar and entire brake assembly-pitched it...

Then, for the coil wire, hooked up to a simple metal, on/off switch and attached to a bracket I made up (attached to where the brake was bolted).

So now, flip the switch on, engine runs, no levers-nothing. That is until you flip the switch OFF.

No re-starting, no handle to hold, much simpler, BUT the safety system is gone (have to remember to keep hands and feet from under a running mower-duh...).

SRTsFZ6 said:

Plus 1 on the above posts. You can't just add a throttle lever W/O other add on parts.
Your set up is very simple, works and really no reason to change it...


*If your the only one using the mower, a suggestion, for a simple "fix / mod".

On my Snapper, self propelled walk behind mower, I removed the safety bar and entire brake assembly-pitched it...

Then, for the coil wire, hooked up to a simple metal, on/off switch and attached to a bracket I made up (attached to where the brake was bolted).

So now, flip the switch on, engine runs, no levers-nothing. That is until you flip the switch OFF.

No re-starting, no handle to hold, much simpler, BUT the safety system is gone (have to remember to keep hands and feet from under a running mower-duh...).

Click to expand...

I agree with Scott I use switches a lot.... When a customer comes in with a broken cable and wants a switch installed.....

hi to all-
love donyboy and also taryl fixes all! could not stop laughing! been learning a lot

So If I pull off the flywheel and I see the green wire with the plastic rectangle. Do I take it off? is there a way to clean it? Or should I just order a new one and replace it?
I haven't ordered the wire or the plastic rectangle. For some reason, it is sold as two different parts

SRTsFZ6 said:

Plus 1 on the above posts. You can't just add a throttle lever W/O other add on parts.
Your set up is very simple, works and really no reason to change it...


*If your the only one using the mower, a suggestion, for a simple "fix / mod".

On my Snapper, self propelled walk behind mower, I removed the safety bar and entire brake assembly-pitched it...

Then, for the coil wire, hooked up to a simple metal, on/off switch and attached to a bracket I made up (attached to where the brake was bolted).

So now, flip the switch on, engine runs, no levers-nothing. That is until you flip the switch OFF.

No re-starting, no handle to hold, much simpler, BUT the safety system is gone (have to remember to keep hands and feet from under a running mower-duh...).

Click to expand...

hey Srtsfz6 love the cup holder set up!! is that an aftermarket thing?

ice said:

hi to all-
love donyboy and also taryl fixes all! could not stop laughing! been learning a lot

So If I pull off the flywheel and I see the green wire with the plastic rectangle. Do I take it off? is there a way to clean it? Or should I just order a new one and replace it?
I haven't ordered the wire or the plastic rectangle. For some reason, it is sold as two different parts

Click to expand...

Ice......... Get someone to work that brake handle for you while you look to see if that assembly is moving like it should....

You said it runs, but the engine doesn't shut off when you release the handle and you have to shut off by other means...

If you do take the flywheel off look at the brake assembly well.... Work the bail lever while looking at the kill switch / plastic piece and see whats it's doing..... I wish I had a engine like yours so I can make a video for you to see how it works....

The easiest way to solve your issue is to do what Scott said and put a toggle switch in line...... No fast brake stop, but the older mowers didn't have that crap anyway.....

I was a young boy in the 1960's cutting grass and I still have my feet and hands in 1 piece.... Common sense rules over some peoples stupidity.... For lawsuits and money hungry lazy ***** people..........

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

I guess number 7 is gonna be your lucky number, cause this thread is gonna be on page 7 before long ............

ice said:

hey Srtsfz6 love the cup holder set up!! is that an aftermarket thing?

Click to expand...

Nope, that came stock from Snapper (about 13 years ago). And I use it every time.

That mower WAS considered residential back then. I've since been told by the dealership, it's considered a commercial machine now (I guess the 7HP, OHV's, etc)

ice said:

So If I pull off the flywheel and I see the green wire with the plastic rectangle. Do I take it off? is there a way to clean it? Or should I just order a new one and replace it?
I haven't ordered the wire or the plastic rectangle. For some reason, it is sold as two different parts

Click to expand...

It's probably been cut with no connection (over time, folks dinking with it). That securing clip WILL be fine, it's extremely robust.
If you degrease under the flywheel, you should be able to see EVERYTHING including the clip..

The issue WILL be that wire NOT making a connection.

All you'll need is a piece of wire or repair where it's broke.


That or connect the coil kill switch terminal, thru a wire to an on/off switch



*Pictured below IS the brake (and pad) and part #195 is the wire. All is pictured in the parts diagram..

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Ice watch this video and go to the 5:27 mark into the video you will see your brake assembly..........It's not the best clear video but you will get the idea...........

https://youtu.be/QuI7cLa_fk4

Click to expand...

Also at 4:10 in that video, you can see where the wire inserts, lower left end of the brake assembly..