Lawn mower won't start, possible electrical issue

mlunday

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It turns over but does not start.

Fuel? I have 1/2 tank, and I can smell the fumes from the engine after trying to start it.

Compression? It worked perfectly a week ago after being returned from the John Deere dealer.

Electrical? I have electricity going to the plugs, I checked. I did not remove the plugs to check them because they were just replaced 3 weeks ago as part of a tune-up.

The only thing left is some sort of faulty safety switch.

I bypassed the RIO switch long ago, so that's not it.

I checked the 20 amp fuse, that's not it.

I shorted the two purple wires for the parking brake safety switch: Youtube video v=DgyUs1cnG2c

I disconnected the seat safety switch, as shown here: Youtube video v=udKeaLlIuLw

Still it turns over but won't start. Not sure what else to try. Suggestions welcome.
 

bertsmobile1

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It turns over but does not start.

Fuel? I have 1/2 tank, and I can smell the fumes from the engine after trying to start it.

Compression? It worked perfectly a week ago after being returned from the John Deere dealer.

Electrical? I have electricity going to the plugs, I checked. I did not remove the plugs to check them because they were just replaced 3 weeks ago as part of a tune-up.
So how do you know there is power to the plugs if you did not remove remove them & check for spark ?

The only thing left is some sort of faulty safety switch.

I bypassed the RIO switch long ago, so that's not it.

I checked the 20 amp fuse, that's not it.

I shorted the two purple wires for the parking brake safety switch: Youtube video v=DgyUs1cnG2c

I disconnected the seat safety switch, as shown here: Youtube video v=udKeaLlIuLw

Still it turns over but won't start. Not sure what else to try. Suggestions welcome.

Get some carb cleaner, starter fluid , which ever you like, remove the plugs, squirt a LITTLE down the plug hole and crank the engine.
IF it fires ( runs for a few seconds ) hen try spraying some down the carb throat.

If you get nothing from both of these tests rmove the blower housing and remove the small wires form bot coils and repeat.
Let us know the outcome.
 

Travlitt

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Apr 13, 2013
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It turns over but does not start.

Fuel? I have 1/2 tank, and I can smell the fumes from the engine after trying to start it.

Compression? It worked perfectly a week ago after being returned from the John Deere dealer.

Electrical? I have electricity going to the plugs, I checked. I did not remove the plugs to check them because they were just replaced 3 weeks ago as part of a tune-up.

The only thing left is some sort of faulty safety switch.

I bypassed the RIO switch long ago, so that's not it.

I checked the 20 amp fuse, that's not it.

I shorted the two purple wires for the parking brake safety switch: Youtube video v=DgyUs1cnG2c

I disconnected the seat safety switch, as shown here: Youtube video v=udKeaLlIuLw

Still it turns over but won't start. Not sure what else to try. Suggestions welcome.

If it cranks, that tells you all of the safety switches are set in the correct position and are working properly.

True enough he may have fried the mags. I would ck compression, fire through the plugs and fuel delivery system. I suspect he has a fuel problem.
 
Last edited:

bertsmobile1

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If it cranks, that tells you all of the safety switches are set in the correct position and are working properly.

Not quite so.
The OP mentioned a RIO switch so he must be talking about a tractor style mower, although we have no idea because he chose not to tell us.
With a tractor style mower only the ignition switch , PTO switch & parking brake are in the cranking circuit and the section of them that controls the cranking does not control the magneto so in reality the only thing we know is working properly is the starter solenoid.
Now for all we know when he bypassed the switches he could very well have fried the magnetos by sending battery voltage down the kill wires particularly if he has been taking instructions from the shaved apes who think they are striking a blow for liberty by posting how to defeat regualtion safety devices that in no way impeede the proper use of the mower
 

Travlitt

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Not quite so.
The OP mentioned a RIO switch so he must be talking about a tractor style mower, although we have no idea because he chose not to tell us.
With a tractor style mower only the ignition switch , PTO switch & parking brake are in the cranking circuit and the section of them that controls the cranking does not control the magneto so in reality the only thing we know is working properly is the starter solenoid.
Now for all we know when he bypassed the switches he could very well have fried the magnetos by sending battery voltage down the kill wires particularly if he has been taking instructions from the shaved apes who think they are striking a blow for liberty by posting how to defeat regualtion safety devices that in no way impeede the proper use of the mower

The safety switches I referred to is the PTO and the break/clutch switch. They have to be working or it will not crank.
 

bertsmobile1

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The safety switches I referred to is the PTO and the break/clutch switch. They have to be working or it will not crank.

Fine except they are all multi pole switches so while the voltage side might be good, the grounding side for the magneto might not be good.
OTOH it does mean they are in their correct place and the plungers are making contact which rules out one having broken off or fallen off or a wiring plug fallen off the switch.
 
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