I have a log splitter with a seized up 6.5 HP B&S and planning on installing a B&S 6.5 HP lawnmower engine. Is this a direct swap meaning do I need to modify the lawnmower engine to work properly on the log splitter?
#2
dougand3
Does the mower engine have a cast iron flywheel? You need that weight to start it. Mower engines usually have a light AL flywheel - the blade gives the necessary weight. Maybe the iron flywheel (and probably coil module) from blown splitter engine will transfer to mower engine. Get IPLs for each engine and compare part #s.
#3
Fish
Watch Facebook and Craigslist for pressure washers that run, but don't wash. There are loads of them around, and sell cheap.
The lawnmower engine is not in my possession yet but assume it is aluminum because it is a lawnmower engine. How difficult is it to swap the flywheel? When get home will have to get the PNs and compare.
Do the pressure washer engines have the cast iron flywheel?
#6
dougand3
Easy to change FW/coil. Will need a puller of some kind. May need new key. PW engines do have cast iron FW.
Some older mower engines do. I had a Briggs 110602 (1998) mower and it has an iron FW. Put that engine on a PW.
Just got the time to swap last weekend, the swap is complete with one exception the LS sleeve/collar that mates to the pump is soaking (cannot get the little allen pin to loosen) in WD40.
1) is the grub screw removed from on to of the key.
2) tap the key from both ends in & out till you can knock it right through.
Degrease the pto shaft with the strongest degreases you cah find amd make sure a lot of it goes through the key way.
Now liberal applications of a rust remover.
IT must be a strait remover and not a combined remover and paint prep.
Naval jelly is the goo if it is still available
If the coupling is NOT made from zinc or aluminium
Some Hydrachloric acid from a pool shop ( muriatic to some ) will strip the rust off and allow the coupling to come free of the shaft.
Brute force
If the coupling is a plain tube then polish the pot shaft between the coupling and the crank case .
Remove the blower housing and find a socket that is a good fit over the flywheel nut
Tip it upside down on a Hard surface so that the weight is on the socket then give the coupling a bash down further onto the shaft.
When it is on to the clean section polish the section where it was .
From here it ahould tap off by supporting the entire weight by the coupling and taping on the shaft.
Assume I should remove the allen screw first before using jaw puller? Will turn right side up and soak the shaft in tranny fluid. When trying to remove the allen screw I am using a 5/32 although seems to be not a perfect fit. If go to a 9/64 it is to big and of coarse the metric side a 4mm too big and a 3mm too small.
#19
dougand3
Surely back off the the Allen retainer screw first. If it's seized, can try a screw extractor. Heat helps, too. Try metric size Allen wrench. Not optimal, but you can wrap a paper towel around a slightly smaller wrench. You'll probably bugger up the screw enough to need a new one.
Ok I removed the coupling but the shaft for the replacement is shorter than needed about an inch and a half. Is there an extension or am I out of luck?
Is there a way to lengthen the shaft? The replacement engine has a shaft that is 1 3/8 inches shorter. Is there a way to use this engine with a shorter shaft?
