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Last effort before service center Intek 20hp V Twin

#1

S

StatesboroMike

I have a Poulan Pro PP20VA46 lawn tractor that is about a year old. It has a B&S 20hp Intek V-Twin engine. Code is 40N877-0004G1-170627YG. It ran perfectly until a few months ago when someone broke into my shed and stole all my fuel, including draining the tanks of all of my gas-powered equipment (I have a suspect but no proof :mad:). It began surging badly after that. I took apart the carb and gave it a good cleaning. I also did the same for the fuel tank and lines. After that it ran smoothly until a few weeks ago when it began surging again. Once more I took apart the carb and cleaned it but the surging continued. After taking it apart and cleaning it a second time the governor gear exploded (my fault, I misadjusted it). I have since replaced the governor (and I made sure I found all the pieces of the exploded governor) and adjusted it according to the procedure outlined in a service manual another member here was kind enough to send to me. In fact, I have given it what amounts to a full service. Here is what I have done:
replaced fuel, air, and oil filters
cleaned mower deck and frame of debris
sharpened blades
leveled deck and adjusted gauge wheels
adjusted governor and throttle linkage per service manual
changed oil
cleaned fuel system (I use 89 Octane btw)
replaced spark plugs
installed new o rings in carb float bowl
replaced carb manifold gaskets
Cleaned the fuel pump
greased all lubrication points with lithium based marine grease (recommended by another member here)
aired all tires to proper psi
replaced choke return spring


After all this, I am STILL having issues! It starts fine and continues to run but only at full throttle and that roughly. Even then it seems to be operating at a much lower rpm than Fast mode implies. If I throttle down it starts to surge badly. It also surges and loses power when I engage the blades. Even without a load it runs sluggishly just driving it around.

So what could be the issue? I've heard of other people with similar engines having to replace the entire carb. Could this be it? Or could it have something to do with the valves? Or could it be something else entirely? This is my Hail Mary effort before taking it to a professional or taking my sledgehammer to it and buying a new engine. Any input will be greatly appreciated. PS: I did use a liquid gasket maker rather than purchasing a premade gasket for the engine. I'm sure I did a thorough job in sealing the engine case however. Should I crack it open again and replace it with a premade gasket?


#2

S

shiftsuper175607

StatesboroMike said:
I have a Poulan Pro PP20VA46 lawn tractor that is about a year old. It has a B&S 20hp Intek V-Twin engine. Code is 40N877-0004G1-170627YG. It has run perfectly until a few months ago when someone broke into my shed and stole all my fuel, including draining the tanks of all of my gas-powered equipment (I have a suspect but no proof :mad:). It began surging badly after that. I took apart the carb and gave it a good cleaning. I also did the same for the fuel tank and lines. After that it ran smoothly until a few weeks ago when it began surging again. Once more I took apart the carb and cleaned it but the surging continued. After taking it apart and cleaning it a second time the governor gear exploded (my fault, I misadjusted it). I have since replaced the governor (and I made sure I found all the pieces of the exploded governor) and adjusted it according to the procedure outlined in a service manual another member here was kind enough to send to me. In fact, I have given it what amounts to a full service. Here is what I have done:
replaced fuel, air, and oil filters
cleaned mower deck and frame of debris
sharpened blades
leveled deck and adjusted gauge wheels
adjusted governor and throttle linkage per service manual
changed oil
cleaned fuel system (I use 89 Octane btw)
replaced spark plugs
installed new o rings in carb float bowl
replaced carb manifold gaskets
Cleaned the fuel pump
greased all lubrication points with lithium based marine grease (recommended by another member here)
aired all tired to proper psi
replaced choke return spring


After all this, I am STILL having issues! It starts fine and continues to run but only at full throttle and that roughly. Even then it seems to be operating at a much lower rpm than Fast mode implies. If I throttle down it starts to surge badly. It also surges and loses power when I engage the blades. Even without a load it runs sluggishly just driving it around.

So what could be the issue? I've heard of other people with similar engines having to replace the entire carb. Could this be it? Or could it have something to do with the valves? Or could it be something else entirely? This is my Hail Mary effort before taking it to a professional or taking my sledgehammer to it and buying a new engine. Any input will be greatly appreciated. PS: I did use a liquid gasket maker rather than purchasing a premade gasket for the engine. I'm sure I did a thorough job in sealing the engine case however. Should I crack it open again and replace it with a premade gasket?
Click to expand...

It does not cost anything to check the valve clearances. It's worth a shot.

sorry for your misfortune with the vandals...a pox upon them.

How much does a new carb cost?

yet yours is only a year old....hmmm

Check that all your throttle and choke rods etc are in the correct place...maybe something is in the wrong spot or binding


#3

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Mike I never use a tube of gasket maker if there is a gasket available.......... Where did you use it at.... ???

Your surge issue has to do with fuel. You carb is still dirty inside in some other hard to reach areas...... You more than likely have the Nikki 2 barrel carb on yours and those kits are pricey,,,,,

I would invest in a ultrasonic cleaner and watch a few videos on you tube on your carb... Just cleaning a bowl doesn't cut the mustard on those finicky carbs.......

Harbor freight has those cleaners for cheap......

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!


#4

S

StatesboroMike

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
Mike I never use a tube of gasket maker if there is a gasket available.......... Where did you use it at.... ???

Your surge issue has to do with fuel. You carb is still dirty inside in some other hard to reach areas...... You more than likely have the Nikki 2 barrel carb on yours and those kits are pricey,,,,,

I would invest in a ultrasonic cleaner and watch a few videos on you tube on your carb... Just cleaning a bowl doesn't cut the mustard on those finicky carbs.......

Harbor freight has those cleaners for cheap......

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
Click to expand...

I used the gasket maker to seal the main crankcase halves together. Its use was recommended to me by a neighbor who is a diesel mechanic and I watched several videos before using it. I don't believe it is causing the issue. My engine uses a single barrel carb with dual manifold. Pics are attached below. I soaked the carb in Seafoam cleaner overnight before installing it and used at least two cans of carb cleaner on it, spraying in every hole I could find as well as the entire frame. It must be cleaner now than when it came off the assembly line. Still, could it be the problem? Or could it be something to do with the valves? I'm losing my mind with the effin thing.

Attachments







#5

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Mike post the model # of the engine for me It's gonna be on the driver side valve cover that way I can see what carb you have.....

Then I can tell you more..... Surging comes from the idle circuit most of the time...... There will be a welch plug on the side of the carb, and that has to come out and then soaked then cleaned well....

I have toooo many like that one....... I can then tell you what kit to get..... Those single barral are a lot cheaper than the 2 barrel type.........

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!


#6

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Never mind about the model number........ I see it in the first post you did .............. Oops


#7

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Ok here's the parts you will need.........

699810 Welch plug

698781 Noodle bowl gasket....

Gonna have tooooooo take welch plug out and the rest of the carb apart.... Give it a good soaking for a few hours in a bath of carb cleaner or a ultrasonic cleaner.....

There will be some holes ( TINY ) under the welch plug that is your idle circuit and causing your surging issue....... Those tiny holes need to be cleaned well... Varnish and ethanol junk from e gas is built up in there.......

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!


#8

cpurvis

cpurvis

StatesboroMike said:
I have a Poulan Pro PP20VA46 lawn tractor that is about a year old. It has a B&S 20hp Intek V-Twin engine. Code is 40N877-0004G1-170627YG. It ran perfectly until a few months ago when someone broke into my shed and stole all my fuel, including draining the tanks of all of my gas-powered equipment (I have a suspect but no proof :mad:). It began surging badly after that. I took apart the carb and gave it a good cleaning. I also did the same for the fuel tank and lines. After that it ran smoothly until a few weeks ago when it began surging again. Once more I took apart the carb and cleaned it but the surging continued. After taking it apart and cleaning it a second time the governor gear exploded (my fault, I misadjusted it). I have since replaced the governor (and I made sure I found all the pieces of the exploded governor) and adjusted it according to the procedure outlined in a service manual another member here was kind enough to send to me. In fact, I have given it what amounts to a full service. Here is what I have done:
replaced fuel, air, and oil filters
cleaned mower deck and frame of debris
sharpened blades
leveled deck and adjusted gauge wheels
adjusted governor and throttle linkage per service manual
changed oil
cleaned fuel system (I use 89 Octane btw)
replaced spark plugs
installed new o rings in carb float bowl
replaced carb manifold gaskets
Cleaned the fuel pump
greased all lubrication points with lithium based marine grease (recommended by another member here)
aired all tires to proper psi
replaced choke return spring
Click to expand...
Most of this has nothing to do with surging. Getting the carburetor CLEAN has everything to do with it. Spraying with a pressurized can rarely gets the internal passages clean. If you're not going to clean it properly, get a new carburetor.


PS: I did use a liquid gasket maker rather than purchasing a premade gasket for the engine. I'm sure I did a thorough job in sealing the engine case however. Should I crack it open again and replace it with a premade gasket?
Click to expand...
I'm not familiar with your engine, but some engines control crankshaft end play with this gasket.


#9

S

StatesboroMike

cpurvis said:
Most of this has nothing to do with surging. Getting the carburetor CLEAN has everything to do with it. Spraying with a pressurized can rarely gets the internal passages clean. If you're not going to clean it properly, get a new carburetor.


I'm not familiar with your engine, but some engines control crankshaft end play with this gasket.
Click to expand...

This is my first time trying to repair anything mechanical, teaching myself and learning as I go in order to be more self-sufficient. Until yesterday I didn't even know what a Welch plug was and everything I listed was to show how thorough I am trying to be for the engine and the overall unit. Later this morning I will be taking the carb apart yet again to clean it as suggested. As far as the gasket it concerned, I haven't found anything to suggest it has anything to do with the crankshaft end play. In will research further. I am still wondering if the valves are part of the problem. Thanks for the input.


#10

S

StatesboroMike

StatesboroMike said:
This is my first time trying to repair anything mechanical, teaching myself and learning as I go in order to be more self-sufficient. Until yesterday I didn't even know what a Welch plug was and everything I listed was to show how thorough I am trying to be for the engine and the overall unit. Later this morning I will be taking the carb apart yet again to clean it as suggested. As far as the gasket it concerned, I haven't found anything to suggest it has anything to do with the crankshaft end play. In will research further. I am still wondering if the valves are part of the problem. Thanks for the input.
Click to expand...

Update: I removed the carb again today, located and removed the welch plug. I tried to be careful getting it out but...well, I have two on order now. Do I need to seal the new plug? Anyway, I used about half a can of carb cleaner on every part of the carb and now have the main unit soaking in a cleaner. I admit I'm new to repairing a motor but considering I have repeatedly sprayed and soaked every inch of the carb before this I honestly dont see how it could be the cause of my current issues. It should be clean to the point of....something....lol

Tomorrow I am going to check the valve clearances and compression and i'm considering removing the flywheel to check the key for damage. These are the only other things my research as suggested as possible sources of the low power and surging. Is there anything else I should check?


#11

B

bertsmobile1

while you are waiting for the postman read through this post https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/50093-FR730V-Carb-Whistling-Surging
All mower engines are basically the same people get confused by brand names and surging is the same regardless of what colour the engine is.
The plastic manifolds are highly prone to leaking due to over tightening , the O ring sits slightly proud of the surface and too tight can cause the sides to bend, particularly when the O rings have gone hard


#12

cpurvis

cpurvis

Run a small wire through every passage of the carb, especially the smallest ones and ones under the Welch plug.

Then soak it some more. Then blow compressed air through every passage.

I would not use sealant on the Welch plug. If some of it squishes out underneath the plug, you're right back where you started.


#13

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Yes Bert has a good Idea.....

Mike you have to destroy the welch plug to get it out.... Do not use anything to seal it... To install it just use a 1/4 inch punch or something equal to that size and indent the center of the new plug..... It should be flat when installed right....


#14

S

StatesboroMike

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
Yes Bert has a good Idea.....

Mike you have to destroy the welch plug to get it out.... Do not use anything to seal it... To install it just use a 1/4 inch punch or something equal to that size and indent the center of the new plug..... It should be flat when installed right....
Click to expand...

I never realized just how picky something like a carb can be. As I stated before, I am new to repairing things myself. I will follow everyone's suggestions for the carb. Now, how do I keep from having to do this again anytime soon? I began using 89 octane fuel after the first time it was Surging. Before I was just using the 87.

In seeking advice the first time months ago I was told my particular type of engine was sensitive to the 87 fuel. Since it is a lower grade fuel it leaves behind more gunk.

So, should I keep using the 89 and add extra fuel cleaner to each tank? Or should I use the higest grade fuel?

Beginning to think I should ditch the mowers and just let my neighbors livestock graze everywhere...


#15

Boobala

Boobala

Mike, in case you do decide to replace your carb, you may want to try a CHEAP chinese job, I replaced a carb on a 10 HP Tecumseh eng. and a carb on my 17.5 HP Briggs, both bought from the ROP Shop on ebay.. to my surprise they both work great, had to adjust idle speed ( only screw on these carbs ) but as cheap as they were .. (less than $20.00 ea.) I figured what the hell, saved myself a few hundred bucks against the OEM carbs. ..... just sayin ...........


#16

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
Mike, in case you do decide to replace your carb, you may want to try a CHEAP chinese job, I replaced a carb on a 10 HP Tecumseh eng. and a carb on my 17.7 HP Briggs, both bought from the ROP Shop on ebay.. to my surprise they both work great, had to adjust idle speed ( only screw on these carbs ) but as cheap as they were .. (less than $20.00 ea.) I figured what the hell, saved myself a few hundred bucks against the OEM carbs. ..... just sayin ...........
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! Will look into that. Like you said: what the Hell, eh? At this point I'm ready to try the local witch doctor


#17

Boobala

Boobala

StatesboroMike said:
Thanks for the info! Will look into that. Like you said: what the Hell, eh? At this point I'm ready to try the local witch doctor
Click to expand...

EASY does it, PATIENCE & PERSISTANCE will over-come .........


#18

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
EASY does it, PATIENCE & PERSISTANCE will over-come .........
Click to expand...

Ok. I just checked the valve clearances using .005 feeler gauge as directed by service manual. Clearances seem correct. Easy movement of gauge with slight resistance. So, should I get a compression tester now? Also, should I take the flywheel off and check the key?


#19

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Just use NON ETHO gas 87 grade and it won't clog up again........

The flywheel key has nothing to do with surging..........

Just concentrate on the carb for now............


#20

Boobala

Boobala

Mike out of curiosity I checked the ROP shop AND ALL of ebay, no replacement carb !! DUH !! BUT.. there is a used carb & manifold for $55.00 + shipping (about $16.00) = $70+ bucks if that interests you, BUT it ends Monday , might try to contact seller ASAP .. if you're interested.. your engine may be too new on the market for them to mfg those carbs. NEW carb = $ 165.00 and UP ..OUCH !!
SORRY if i dashed your hopes of a CHEAP carb.. MY BAD !!
here's some info ..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-Str...675948?hash=item4d78a6c06c:g:fJ0AAOSw7pZbXSZz

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...-40n899/40n877-0004-g1/carburetor-fuel-filter

https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-F...Briggs-Stratton-Small-Engine-Carburetor-Parts

https://www.partswarehouse.com/40N877-0004-G1-Briggs-and-Stratton-Engine-s/239559.htm#

Your carb is SIMILAR to the NIKKI 1 Bbl. used on the SINGLE cyl. Briggs engines (28-30 Series) check out this rebuild procedure it might prove helpful to ya ... Boo

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp


#21

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
Mike out of curiosity I checked the ROP shop AND ALL of ebay, no replacement carb !! DUH !! BUT.. there is a used carb & manifold for $55.00 + shipping (about $16.00) = $70+ bucks if that interests you, BUT it ends Monday , might try to contact seller ASAP .. if you're interested.. your engine may be too new on the market for them to mfg those carbs. NEW carb = $ 165.00 and UP ..OUCH !!
SORRY if i dashed your hopes of a CHEAP carb.. MY BAD !!
here's some info ..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-Str...675948?hash=item4d78a6c06c:g:fJ0AAOSw7pZbXSZz

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...-40n899/40n877-0004-g1/carburetor-fuel-filter

https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-F...Briggs-Stratton-Small-Engine-Carburetor-Parts

https://www.partswarehouse.com/40N877-0004-G1-Briggs-and-Stratton-Engine-s/239559.htm#

Your carb is SIMILAR to the NIKKI 1 Bbl. used on the SINGLE cyl. Briggs engines (28-30 Series) check out this rebuild procedure it might prove helpful to ya ... Boo

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp
Click to expand...

Thank for all your input! I will check into it.


#22

Boobala

Boobala

StatesboroMike said:
Thank for all your input! I will check into it.
Click to expand...

Mike, SORRY AGAIN, got my head up my arse, MAYBE you can use the same carb I have on MY Briggs 21 HP Twin, check out the pics and see if you think everything will match up with yours, the only thing I saw major, was the solenoid on yours is SIDE mounted and mine is bottom mounted but I THINK the linkages (throttle/choke should all be alike) .. and you can buy a chinese model of mine cheap, 20 HP ... 21 HP same schitt ! check it out ..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Engine...127?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

check out the pics on this site and compare to your carb ..... click on pics RIGHT-HAND side of page (scroll down)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lawn-Mower...602?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

BESURE to see where it ships from and shipping charges and delivery dates ......... Boo


#23

L

Luffydog

To me 89 is the worst one u can buy because you pay more for nothing. Let's say you wanted a hundred gallons of 89. It takes 70gallons of 87 and 30 gallons of 93 to down blend the fuel to 89. So it's 87 or 93 is the only two straight octanes of fuel to buy. After 30 days it starts going bad from the day it's made then shipped to a termanal then has to sit then they put their blends in and sits for a few more days then off to the station for sale it's almost bad before you buy it and In some cases it is at smaller stations that don't sell a lot of the fuels. :thumbsup:


#24

cpurvis

cpurvis

Gasoline is made at a refinery. It is then put in the refinery's million gallon tank, along with all the other gas of the same octane that's in the tank. It then goes by pipeline, some hundreds of miles long, to reach a distribution point where it's dumped into their million gallon tank.

There it gets loaded onto a delivery truck, having its brand's particular additive recipe injected as the fuel goes on the truck. Then it is hauled to a filling station or commercial user and dumped into their tank, mixing with whatever is in the tank at the time.

Now, how old is that gas when you get it?


#25

Boobala

Boobala

Anybody living close to a Marina on the water should have no problem getting NON Ethanol gas, MOST marinas have it .


#26

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
Anybody living close to a Marina on the water should have no problem getting NON Ethanol gas, MOST marinas have it .
Click to expand...

I have been intensely studying the carb (BS# 699807) in the links you sent earlier. Although it is not listed as being used/compatible on my particular engine (40N877-0004G1-170627YG) it appears to be virtually identical to my present carb (BS# 594207). The only difference I can easily see is that the rocker tab on the end of the choke shaft is slightly different. However, the placement for the linkage seems the same. Everything else looks to be a match. I am beginning to wonder if manufacturers sometimes make a very minor change to a part and assign it a brand new code so they can say it is a different part and charge an arm and a leg for it. I am definitely going to keep 699807 in mind, even if the one in the links is a knockoff. Thanks again!


#27

Boobala

Boobala

StatesboroMike said:
I have been intensely studying the carb (BS# 699807) in the links you sent earlier. Although it is not listed as being used/compatible on my particular engine (40N877-0004G1-170627YG) it appears to be virtually identical to my present carb (BS# 594207). The only difference I can easily see is that the rocker tab on the end of the choke shaft is slightly different. However, the placement for the linkage seems the same. Everything else looks to be a match. I am beginning to wonder if manufacturers sometimes make a very minor change to a part and assign it a brand new code so they can say it is a different part and charge an arm and a leg for it. I am definitely going to keep 699807 in mind, even if the one in the links is a knockoff. Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Usually it's just a change in the main jet size or the linkage, you could possibly swap the choke rod assy. from your old carb to the replacement if really necessary. I checked the parts lists and the carbs use most of the same P/Ns ... my engine is th 404500 series if you care to check,

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/b...engine-parts-c-16758_17347_240657_240714.html


#28

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
Usually it's just a change in the main jet size or the linkage, you could possibly swap the choke rod assy. from your old carb to the replacement if really necessary. I checked the parts lists and the carbs use most of the same P/Ns ... my engine is th 404500 series if you care to check,

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/b...engine-parts-c-16758_17347_240657_240714.html
Click to expand...


Got the new Welch plugs yesterday. Soaked the carb in cleaner overnight, ran wire through the holes, sprayed it down with another can of carb cleaner, etc etc etc. Got it all back together this morning and it started and ran smoothly, except...

The engine is still running at a low rpm and does not respond to the throttle control. Fast or slow, makes no difference. All the linkages seem to be moving correctly, all springs are present. Guessing now I need to get a tachometer and check the RPM? Pull the flywheel and check the key? Reset all the linkages? ??????????


#29

Boobala

Boobala

StatesboroMike said:
Got the new Welch plugs yesterday. Soaked the carb in cleaner overnight, ran wire through the holes, sprayed it down with another can of carb cleaner, etc etc etc. Got it all back together this morning and it started and ran smoothly, except...

The engine is still running at a low rpm and does not respond to the throttle control. Fast or slow, makes no difference. All the linkages seem to be moving correctly, all springs are present. Guessing now I need to get a tachometer and check the RPM? Pull the flywheel and check the key? Reset all the linkages? ??????????
Click to expand...

OK Mike, it sounds as though you have a linkage issue, are you sure the throttle /choke cable(s) are properly adjusted and moving their full travel ?? here's a few vids to check on your governor spring and throttle setting, check it out, and let us know what's happening ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7rvHH0IPPk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL6WmE7pPKs


#30

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
OK Mike, it sounds as though you have a linkage issue, are you sure the throttle /choke cable(s) are properly adjusted and moving their full travel ?? here's a few vids to check on your governor spring and throttle setting, check it out, and let us know what's happening ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7rvHH0IPPk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL6WmE7pPKs
Click to expand...

for the past two days I have been studying diagrams, videos, and pics of the linkage assembly for my engine. Everything seems correct. All parts are present. All are moving as they should. Still, I have no throttle control. I move the throttle to CHOKE, start the engine, move the throttle down to FAST, and it just stays there (though it doesn't seem to be revving at its top RPM). Moving down the throttle speeds has no effect. Also, the engine seems to get extremely hot after just a few seconds of running. Any ideas? I feel I am getting close to getting my mower to working again, but the Mower gods aren't making it easy.


#31

Boobala

Boobala

Mike, I know it's frustrating, MANY of us have been there, why do you think this site exists ?? it has to be something we've overlooked, something simple .. are you absolutely positive you have the governor adjusted and tightened correctly, ?? have you tried to push on the governor arm with your finger to see if it will increase RPMs ?? I hate to give you more vids but it might spark a thought, from memory of something.. as usual, keep us posted.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOoArROpM_o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi3uEdiRD2A


#32

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
Mike, I know it's frustrating, MANY of us have been there, why do you think this site exists ?? it has to be something we've overlooked, something simple .. are you absolutely positive you have the governor adjusted and tightened correctly, ?? have you tried to push on the governor arm with your finger to see if it will increase RPMs ?? I hate to give you more vids but it might spark a thought, from memory of something.. as usual, keep us posted.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOoArROpM_o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi3uEdiRD2A
Click to expand...


I have the governor adjusted and tightened correctly. Of that I am certain. I was very careful to follow the instructions from multiple sites when I did it. But, I will triple check it again. Havent tried moving the governor arm yet but will later. Gotta watch my baby boy for now while the wife goes shopping. I was actually wondering I am experiencing the same problem as the guy in the second video you sent, with the governor counterweights sticking. They seem to work fine when I installed the gear but maybe they are sticking now. Shrugs. Just hate to open the engine AGAIN. But, if I have to then I have to. I have a tachometer coming (rural areas suck since most of what you need is only available by order). Maybe I will wait until I can check the RPMs. A friend gave me a leakdown tester as a gift. Might go ahead and use it. Couldnt hurt.

BTW: What would it mean if I do increase the RPMs by pushing on the governor arm? Maybe a dumb question but, ya know


#33

Boobala

Boobala

PATIENCE Mike .. PATIENCE & Persistence !! ..:thumbsup:..:thumbsup:


#34

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
PATIENCE Mike .. PATIENCE & Persistence !! ..:thumbsup:..:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Success! Although it requires a bit more tweaking (setting the RPMs and such), I finally manged to get my mower to respond to the throttle control. I went over the linkages again and discovered I had the throttle cable set wrong. Hey, I am not mechanically inclined and this was my first attempt at fixing an engine so don't be too harsh on me :)

It starts great, runs smoothly, and has no surging. I think that problem was due to the welch plug. It appeared to be leaking and it popped out what seemed to me way too easily. Havent tried the mower with a load yet because it's raining here but will test it soon enough. Hopefully, all will go well.

I am still concerned about the engine running apparently much hotter than I remember after just a few moments use. I'm wondering if that might be because of the fuel I am using. I got a can of SEF non-ethanol small engine fuel. Its high octane. I'm just a baby grease monkey so what do I know? Anyway, some progress at last! Time for a celebratory beer. Hey, it's 5 o'clock somewhere right?:licking:


#35

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Mike I'll be the first to drink to your success......... I know for a fact those carbs are finicky... Like I told you from the get go clean is not clean till that plug comes out then a good soaking then a good spray job..... Oh the wire passing thru the holes also.........

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!


#36

Boobala

Boobala

Congrats Mike !! I'm hopin when you do a final test (under load) .. all is well, I suspected you had the throttle cable in the wrong hole on the throttle bracket, ( am I correct ..?? ) and about running HOT... have you removed the engine shrouds to clean the cooling fins,.. correct oil level,.. the flywheel "vane" linkage hooked up & working correctly ..??? Lets NOT cook an engine at this point !! ..:thumbsup:


#37

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
Congrats Mike !! I'm hopin when you do a final test (under load) .. all is well, I suspected you had the throttle cable in the wrong hole on the throttle bracket, ( am I correct ..?? ) and about running HOT... have you removed the engine shrouds to clean the cooling fins,.. correct oil level,.. the flywheel "vane" linkage hooked up & working correctly ..??? Lets NOT cook an engine at this point !! ..:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Success!!! Today was the first chance to mess with my mower since my last post. I fine tuned the linkage, used my new tachometer to set the idle speed, tightened the belt, and...it worked!!! It starts up on the first turn of the key, idles smoothly, and runs perfectly when the blades are engaged. I'm still thinking it seems to be running hot but I will address that later. At least it is working now!!! Thanks to everyone who offered their opinions, comments, and suggestions. I've learned a lot and now want to fix something else. BTW: to anyone in the hurricane path, stay safe.


#38

Boobala

Boobala

StatesboroMike said:
Success!!! Today was the first chance to mess with my mower since my last post. I fine tuned the linkage, used my new tachometer to set the idle speed, tightened the belt, and...it worked!!! It starts up on the first turn of the key, idles smoothly, and runs perfectly when the blades are engaged. I'm still thinking it seems to be running hot but I will address that later. At least it is working now!!! Thanks to everyone who offered their opinions, comments, and suggestions. I've learned a lot and now want to fix something else. BTW: to anyone in the hurricane path, stay safe.
Click to expand...

Stay in touch Mike ... :thumbsup:


#39

S

StatesboroMike

Boobala said:
Stay in touch Mike ... :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Good morning! I finally had the chance to give my mower a full workout yesterday and spent it mowing my entire several acre property. It worked great, even cutting through the thickest grass with ease. It seems my concerns about it running hot were unfounded. It did get hot, of course, but operated even better once it warmed up. Now to diy a grass catcher...


#40

Boobala

Boobala

StatesboroMike said:
Good morning! I finally had the chance to give my mower a full workout yesterday and spent it mowing my entire several acre property. It worked great, even cutting through the thickest grass with ease. It seems my concerns about it running hot were unfounded. It did get hot, of course, but operated even better once it warmed up. Now to diy a grass catcher...
Click to expand...

Don't forget your regular maintenance now Mike, stay on top of things, be sure to keep the fuel system CLEAN .. and check your gas-can for dirt/water occasionally and remember... Rust.... NEVER SLEEPS !! .. :thumbsup:


#41

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Also NON ETHO gas only ...................

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!


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