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Kohler ignition
#1
C
cambre
C
cambre
Still trying to rewire ignition switch on Craftsman ZTS Kohler 26hp twin. The S terminal on the ignition switch goes where on the solenoid? +terminal on battery goes to one side of solenoid with a wire from it going to top terminal of the relay. Other side of solenoid goes to starter, these are the two large terminals on the solenoid. There are two small connections on the bottom of the solenoid that I am not sure where they go. The connection on the bottom of the relay I'm not sure where it goes. I can read a schematic a little but the one I have is in black and white. I think it would help if wires were in color. My harness burnt and fused all the wires together. The schematic shows all the wires going into a bundle that's wrapped up and when they come out the other end I lose them, that's why I say color would help me. Thanks to everyone for the help so far. As you can tell wiring is not something I easily understand. I love to fix things. I always want to learn new things to. Thanks for any help.
#2
M
motoman
M
motoman
Cambre, Look closely at the wiring of the schematic. Normally the wiring is coded for color with abbreviations like "b" black, "wo" white with orange stripe etc. Also it can get confusing when wiring goes into a connector one color and emerges another. Normally there is a key to abbreviations , sometimes on a lead- in page which can help. Also wiring can be very specific so that ideally your model is clearly spelled out on the schematic. I am sure there are diy aids on line which could also help in reading schematics. Hope this helps.:thumbsup:
#3
reynoldston
reynoldston
Your first post you just wanted to bypass all switches and just get it running. Is that still what you want? If not You will need a wiring diagram for that year and model mower. You will just have to take your time and follow this diagram like a road map. You might even have to buy the right wiring diagram if you can't find one free. I find this can be very enjoyable work but just take one circuit at a time and think what power you are working with negative or positive and what you want to happen. You also need to understand electricity. Remember what all a relay or solenoid is a switch that turns on and off with electric.
#4
C
cambre
Good info motoman: I sure will check the schematic I was trying to use. I did watch some ignition switch wiring on utube but not enough detail for me. Thanks, I am thick headed Cambre.
C
cambre
Cambre, Look closely at the wiring of the schematic. Normally the wiring is coded for color with abbreviations like "b" black, "wo" white with orange stripe etc. Also it can get confusing when wiring goes into a connector one color and emerges another. Normally there is a key to abbreviations , sometimes on a lead- in page which can help. Also wiring can be very specific so that ideally your model is clearly spelled out on the schematic. I am sure there are diy aids on line which could also help in reading schematics. Hope this helps.:thumbsup:
Good info motoman: I sure will check the schematic I was trying to use. I did watch some ignition switch wiring on utube but not enough detail for me. Thanks, I am thick headed Cambre.
#5
C
cambre
My first post is correct. I want to start it with the ignition switch. I have to jump the solenoid to start it. The ignition switch will kill it and has to be in on position to start but will not crank engine when key is turned to start position. One question I had was where does the wire go that comes off of the S terminal on the ignition switch? There are two small spade connections on the bottom of the solenoid. Where does each of these go? There are two connections on the solenoid relay. Where do they go. I do not want any safety switches. I use the mower mostly to tow a wagon to pick up rocks, limbs & haul fertilizer etc. I could put on a push button to start it but would probably have trouble wiring that. Thanks for the answer reynoldston
C
cambre
Your first post you just wanted to bypass all switches and just get it running. Is that still what you want? If not You will need a wiring diagram for that year and model mower. You will just have to take your time and follow this diagram like a road map. You might even have to buy the right wiring diagram if you can't find one free. I find this can be very enjoyable work but just take one circuit at a time and think what power you are working with negative or positive and what you want to happen. You also need to understand electricity. Remember what all a relay or solenoid is a switch that turns on and off with electric.
My first post is correct. I want to start it with the ignition switch. I have to jump the solenoid to start it. The ignition switch will kill it and has to be in on position to start but will not crank engine when key is turned to start position. One question I had was where does the wire go that comes off of the S terminal on the ignition switch? There are two small spade connections on the bottom of the solenoid. Where does each of these go? There are two connections on the solenoid relay. Where do they go. I do not want any safety switches. I use the mower mostly to tow a wagon to pick up rocks, limbs & haul fertilizer etc. I could put on a push button to start it but would probably have trouble wiring that. Thanks for the answer reynoldston
#6
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
You have two big connectors and two small connectors on your solenoid correct. One large connector should have a large wire from the battery, and a small wire going ton the B terminal on the key switch. The other large terminal has a large wire going to the starter. There should be a small wire going from the S terminal on the key switch to one of the small terminals on the solenoid. the other small terminal can be wired directly to ground if you are not using any safety switches.
#7
C
cambre
Thanks ILENGINE: Yes, two big connectors & two small connectors on the solenoid. That is what I needed to know. I knew where the large wires on the solenoid went to. Its the small wires that are giving me trouble. You have cleared up a lot. What about the relay, do I still need it? If so where does the connectors on it wire up to? Thanks ILENGINE
C
cambre
You have two big connectors and two small connectors on your solenoid correct. One large connector should have a large wire from the battery, and a small wire going ton the B terminal on the key switch. The other large terminal has a large wire going to the starter. There should be a small wire going from the S terminal on the key switch to one of the small terminals on the solenoid. the other small terminal can be wired directly to ground if you are not using any safety switches.
Thanks ILENGINE: Yes, two big connectors & two small connectors on the solenoid. That is what I needed to know. I knew where the large wires on the solenoid went to. Its the small wires that are giving me trouble. You have cleared up a lot. What about the relay, do I still need it? If so where does the connectors on it wire up to? Thanks ILENGINE
#8
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
If you don't have a fuel solenoid on the carb. The only wires you need is the wire from the battery to the B terminal of the key switch. The wire from the S on the key switch to the small terminal on the solenoid, and a wire from the M terminal to the ignition module to kill the engine. Depending on the type of ignition on the engine. You may need a hot wire from the key switch to the ignition modules on the ASAM and DSAM type ignitions.
#9
B
bertsmobile1
And an earth connection to the ignition switch so you can turn it off.
Most switches are marked on the back.
B= battery +12v feed
S= solenoid, 12 V to trip the starter solenoid
M =magneto, the small wire from the ignition coil
G= ground which connects to M when the ignition is off
The fuel solenoid needs a 12V feed from the A or L terminals on the ignition switch,
B
bertsmobile1
If you don't have a fuel solenoid on the carb. The only wires you need is the wire from the battery to the B terminal of the key switch. The wire from the S on the key switch to the small terminal on the solenoid, and a wire from the M terminal to the ignition module to kill the engine. Depending on the type of ignition on the engine. You may need a hot wire from the key switch to the ignition modules on the ASAM and DSAM type ignitions.
And an earth connection to the ignition switch so you can turn it off.
Most switches are marked on the back.
B= battery +12v feed
S= solenoid, 12 V to trip the starter solenoid
M =magneto, the small wire from the ignition coil
G= ground which connects to M when the ignition is off
The fuel solenoid needs a 12V feed from the A or L terminals on the ignition switch,
#10
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Most of the metal key switches are internal earth, plus G (ground) unless mounted in plastic or the switch is plastic. The solenoid would need to go to the L terminal because the A terminal wouldn't be hot in the start position. That was the reason I didn't discuss the ground side of the switch.
#11
C
cambre
Thanks ilengine: It does have a fuel solenoid on the carb. I understand I can use the L terminal for that. Thanks for the help. Things starting to make since.
C
cambre
If you don't have a fuel solenoid on the carb. The only wires you need is the wire from the battery to the B terminal of the key switch. The wire from the S on the key switch to the small terminal on the solenoid, and a wire from the M terminal to the ignition module to kill the engine. Depending on the type of ignition on the engine. You may need a hot wire from the key switch to the ignition modules on the ASAM and DSAM type ignitions.
Thanks ilengine: It does have a fuel solenoid on the carb. I understand I can use the L terminal for that. Thanks for the help. Things starting to make since.
#12
C
cambre
Thanks again ilengine.
C
cambre
Most of the metal key switches are internal earth, plus G (ground) unless mounted in plastic or the switch is plastic. The solenoid would need to go to the L terminal because the A terminal wouldn't be hot in the start position. That was the reason I didn't discuss the ground side of the switch.
Thanks again ilengine.
#13
C
cambre
Good to hear from you bertsmobile1: Thanks for the help. I think all this is finally starting to sink in. I have always had trouble with wiring and wanted to learn how to wire this thing. Thanks to this forum and every ones help it will get done.
C
cambre
And an earth connection to the ignition switch so you can turn it off.
Most switches are marked on the back.
B= battery +12v feed
S= solenoid, 12 V to trip the starter solenoid
M =magneto, the small wire from the ignition coil
G= ground which connects to M when the ignition is off
The fuel solenoid needs a 12V feed from the A or L terminals on the ignition switch,
Good to hear from you bertsmobile1: Thanks for the help. I think all this is finally starting to sink in. I have always had trouble with wiring and wanted to learn how to wire this thing. Thanks to this forum and every ones help it will get done.
#14
M
motoman
M
motoman
Cambre, It is heartening to see this support. If I may..."hot wire" is +12V (12 volts).
#15
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Cambre, I find wiring is also my weak point. Being colorblind doesn't help either. Sometimes I have to do just what you are doing. Just ignore the colors and trace where they are suppose to go. I have found more than one supposed wiring diagram that either was incorrect, or the wire colors on the mower don't match what is on the diagram. Most key switches have the L terminal hot in both the run and start positions, You just need to find the terminal that meets that requirement.
#16
M
motoman
M
motoman
Cambre , One good rule if you can is that no "hot" wire (battery voltage 12 v ) ever goes to ground (chassis return to battery) with out a load being included . Like a bulb or starter motor , or solenoid. If that happens the battery will supply all it can to the wire like an arc welder, melting its insulation and all around it. If in doubt an inline fuse can always be installed which will blow and protect the circuit . Not saying to put an inline on every wire; when I added an oil cooler fan on my Intek I put in a 10 amp inline fuse knowing that the fan needed 3.5 amps to run. It has never blown, but if e.g., the insulation should fray and let the wire touch (chassis) ground the fuse will blow and not melt wiring, IL ENG is right about misleading schematics, another obstacle.
#17
C
cambre
Thanks bertsmobile1, So the wire from the coil goes to the M terminal on the ignition switch. Does the G terminal and the M terminal connect inside the ignition switch when it is off? I got the ignition switch working where it cranks the engine. No need to jump solenoid to start it. The solenoid on the carb works off the L terminal like you said it would. What do I do with the G terminal on the ignition switch? Thanks for all your help. The schematics I can find are not color coded and not numbered. I knew I was in trouble when all the wires fused together but I knew the people on this forum would help me. I imagine some of the guys are tired of seeing me post on this problem. Thanks
C
cambre
And an earth connection to the ignition switch so you can turn it off.
Most switches are marked on the back.
B= battery +12v feed
S= solenoid, 12 V to trip the starter solenoid
M =magneto, the small wire from the ignition coil
G= ground which connects to M when the ignition is off
The fuel solenoid needs a 12V feed from the A or L terminals on the ignition switch,
Thanks bertsmobile1, So the wire from the coil goes to the M terminal on the ignition switch. Does the G terminal and the M terminal connect inside the ignition switch when it is off? I got the ignition switch working where it cranks the engine. No need to jump solenoid to start it. The solenoid on the carb works off the L terminal like you said it would. What do I do with the G terminal on the ignition switch? Thanks for all your help. The schematics I can find are not color coded and not numbered. I knew I was in trouble when all the wires fused together but I knew the people on this forum would help me. I imagine some of the guys are tired of seeing me post on this problem. Thanks
#18
reynoldston
This is the reason you need the right diagram.. For some reason the manufactures will change wiring from one model or serial number to the next. This is the reason I have always said you need the year it was made and model. There must be a reason for this that I don't know???
reynoldston
I have found more than one supposed wiring diagram that either was incorrect, or the wire colors on the mower don't match what is on the diagram.
This is the reason you need the right diagram.. For some reason the manufactures will change wiring from one model or serial number to the next. This is the reason I have always said you need the year it was made and model. There must be a reason for this that I don't know???
#19
C
cambre
This engine is over 8 yrs old and has been retired by Kohler yrs ago. The mower model # is 107.287910. The engine is an SV735-0018. This model # is no help to me when I try to find any info on the mower or the engine. The PDFs show all different kinds of engine electrical set ups, some with regular air gap coils, DSAM coils and DSAI coils of witch I think I have the DSAI coils. Thanks for all your help reynoldston.
C
cambre
This is the reason you need the right diagram.. For some reason the manufactures will change wiring from one model or serial number to the next. This is the reason I have always said you need the year it was made and model. There must be a reason for this that I don't know???
This engine is over 8 yrs old and has been retired by Kohler yrs ago. The mower model # is 107.287910. The engine is an SV735-0018. This model # is no help to me when I try to find any info on the mower or the engine. The PDFs show all different kinds of engine electrical set ups, some with regular air gap coils, DSAM coils and DSAI coils of witch I think I have the DSAI coils. Thanks for all your help reynoldston.
#20
B
bertsmobile1
Yes,
M connects to G which EARTHS out the ignition and stop the engine.
So you can double check this.
In all positions except off G & M should not connect.
Off G & M are connected.
Tripple check that there is no voltage at the terminal you think is G because if you put 12V down the magneto wire it will stop,,,, for good, fried like Sunday morning bacon.
B
bertsmobile1
Thanks bertsmobile1, So the wire from the coil goes to the M terminal on the ignition switch. Does the G terminal and the M terminal connect inside the ignition switch when it is off? I got the ignition switch working where it cranks the engine. No need to jump solenoid to start it. The solenoid on the carb works off the L terminal like you said it would. What do I do with the G terminal on the ignition switch? Thanks for all your help. The schematics I can find are not color coded and not numbered. I knew I was in trouble when all the wires fused together but I knew the people on this forum would help me. I imagine some of the guys are tired of seeing me post on this problem. Thanks
Yes,
M connects to G which EARTHS out the ignition and stop the engine.
So you can double check this.
In all positions except off G & M should not connect.
Off G & M are connected.
Tripple check that there is no voltage at the terminal you think is G because if you put 12V down the magneto wire it will stop,,,, for good, fried like Sunday morning bacon.
#21
C
cambre
Is there a way to test a magneto in case I fried it like Sunday morning bacon? I got every thing working but I have no spark plug fire. I have always had spark so I must have screwed up again. I may have put a hot wire to the magneto. Thanks bertsmobile1
C
cambre
Yes,
M connects to G which EARTHS out the ignition and stop the engine.
So you can double check this.
In all positions except off G & M should not connect.
Off G & M are connected.
Tripple check that there is no voltage at the terminal you think is G because if you put 12V down the magneto wire it will stop,,,, for good, fried like Sunday morning bacon.
Is there a way to test a magneto in case I fried it like Sunday morning bacon? I got every thing working but I have no spark plug fire. I have always had spark so I must have screwed up again. I may have put a hot wire to the magneto. Thanks bertsmobile1