Boy.. did I get that wrong. I thought, being a municipality where they have mechanics on staff they would service them more regularly than perhaps a homeowner or business owner where cost was an issue. Shows what happens when I assume something. When I picked it up, the oil was clean and there was a new oil filter which I found consistent with my preconceived notion. Oh well, live and learn.. it's still 100 times better than the ancient old Bunton Zero turn I've been using for the past 7 seasons. I think it dates back to the paleolithic era or.. the early 90's anyway.
KAXS.852N4CA spark plugs are very different looking
- Thread starter revtim
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Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hi revtim,
Bunton is a name I have not heard in a while; they were a very popular commercial brand back in the 80's when I was in Virginia. I'm probably being too harsh on municipalities by comparing them to my area of South Texas.
Well.. i replaced the plugs, the air filter and the fuel filter and added new gas as well... it ran much better at first, both cylinders that wonderful familiar whirring sound when it is at full rpm.. but then it bogged down again and is now running on one good cylinder and one not so good. The water test on the exhaust took a while to evap the water on the front cylinder but didn't even get wet on the rear one.Hello revtim,
Sounds like one cylinder not producing power.
A quick check is with a spray bottle to see if water burns off of each exhaust outlet rapidly. If one does not, you found the none working cylinder.
Simple is the best approach: Start by replacing the plugs.
Next would be a possible coil failure. There are many You tube videos that can help replacing one a setting the proper air gap.
If the upper engine cover has never been off for a good cleaning, overheating of the cylinders and a failed head gasket are a real possibility.
Here is a parts source according to your engine number
Kawasaki FX801V-FS04 - Kawasaki Engine *SHORT BLOCK ASSEMBLY Parts Lookup and Diagrams | PartsTree
Find genuine OEM replacement parts and diagrams for the *SHORT BLOCK ASSEMBLY for the Kawasaki FX801V-FS04 - Kawasaki Enginewww.partstree.com
Keep us posted on what you find, because many of us can easily write a lot about "what it could be" but let's take it a step at a time with the diagnostics first.
So, now I'm wondering about plug wires or coil. Does this have two coils or can one coil give different quality spark to different cylinders? Since it was hitting max revs.. sporatically, this seems most likely to me anyway. I don't suppose it's got a double barrel carb where each barrel supplies one cylinder.
So, your thoughts on this?
Checked after cleaning the pan and it isthe governor shaft seal.. so I can address that.. thanks for the tip.. and the video someone provided gave me the tip I needed. Thanks for this.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hi revtim,
The next logical step would be the coil is breaking down when it gets hot. Coils do cut out and act up that way.
It would not hurt to clean the carburetor well; the fine passages may have some debris in them. Be careful and take pictures if you are not very familiar with carburetors. Clean on the outside is just cosmetic, but cleaning on the inside is what counts. There should be plenty of You Tube videos that will help with your particular carburetor design.
Carburetor can usually be disassembled and cleaned without requiring a fancy rebuild kit. Most just require a new float needle and a bowl gasket seal.
Chemtool B-12 carb spray is what I use or the NAPA Mac's brand. Other cheaper sprays just don't seem to work well, and it is expensive to waste.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hi StarTech,
Have you ever used Royal Purple 10W-40? That stuff is awesome in air cooled commercial mowers in hot climates. I'm in South Texas, so it is hot around here most of the year.
Any multi-grade will shear down way faster than say SAE 30w will. Briggs and the others say if you use a multi, check the oil more often as it will consume more oil. Not saving anything if you have to use more of it. Just like E-10 gas. Have to use more to get your car the same distance on the same volume of gas compared to E-0.
TO ALL: Well... it turned out that it was one of the coils, the one to the inside facing the seat that was bad. Thanks to the youtube video ya'll directed me to I managed to get it done and it only took me about 4 hours. (keep in mind, I'm 78 years old without a garage and not the most organized when it comes to my tools... so plenty of time following the "measure twice, cut once" philosophy things always take me longer, especially the first time I try something but she purrs like a kitten now... and cuts the long grass like a beast.
I just want to thank all of you that participated in this thread. You've all been so very helpful with ideas and tips.
Next,I'm going to replace the governor shaft seal..I already have the part and just need to get some mowing done before taking on this next task.
I think I'm going to take off the blades and sharpen them too.. can you tell me if the Toro Z Master Pro bolts that hold the blades undo counter clockwise or backwards?
I just want to thank all of you that participated in this thread. You've all been so very helpful with ideas and tips.
Next,I'm going to replace the governor shaft seal..I already have the part and just need to get some mowing done before taking on this next task.
I think I'm going to take off the blades and sharpen them too.. can you tell me if the Toro Z Master Pro bolts that hold the blades undo counter clockwise or backwards?
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
The blade bolts or nuts are right hand thread (conventional). Use a short board to pin between the blade and deck when you go to break them loose and when you retighten. An air operated or electric impact work very well but make sure the blade is on correct and held in place.