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Kawasaki FR691v

#1

R

robertpalmer

Hey folks. New to the forum. I have a Toro SS 5000 with a Kawasaki FR691v 23 HP engine. Recently, it has started backfiring when I pull the switch to engage the blades. I've heard everything from it possibly being a fuel solenoid to the brake module. Hard to get an answer out of my local dealer or the manufacturer. I currently don't really have a way to get it to a shop so if I could do it myself it would be great. Thoughts? Any help will be greatly appreciated.



#3

B

bertsmobile1

BAckfires, blows a little smoke, gets louder exhaust for a few seconds then settls down ?
All signs of a blown head gasket.
Run the engine for a few minutes, turn it off then pull the dip stick.
Soke rising confirms a gasket.


#4

R

robertpalmer

No indication of a bad gasket. Did the cut off the solenoid tip trick. Seemed to run fin, but started backfiring again. Not as bad as before though.


#5

M

macdog73

Robert Palmer --- same problem, same engine . I did find carb had black oil smudges in the carb. . btw , didn't s the ans. to your problem ?? macdog73


#6

B

bertsmobile1

next test is to pull the spark plugs off, one at a time.
If pulling on off makes no difference that cylinder is bad.


#7

M

macdog73

next test is to pull the spark plugs off, one at a time.
If pulling on off makes no difference that cylinder is bad.

with oil in the carb LIGHT FILM could intake valve be out of adj. ?


#8

7394

7394

with oil in the carb LIGHT FILM could intake valve be out of adj. ?

Your carb has a crankcase vent just above it, when the engine inhales it also draws in crankcase fumes, which can contain trace amounts of oil.

Make sure your oil level is not overfilled.


#9

M

macdog73

sorry to type over this mssg. === problem solved ===== follow method and check to make sure piston is onTDC IN COMPRESSION STROKE and adjust valves to .0020 thousands once done mower ran all afternoon.. BTW backfiring was threw carb.




Your carb has a crankcase vent just above it, when the engine inhales it also draws in crankcase fumes, which can contain trace amounts of oil.

Make sure your oil level is not overfilled.


#10

7394

7394

sorry to type over this mssg. === problem solved ===== follow method and check to make sure piston is onTDC IN COMPRESSION STROKE and adjust valves to .0020 thousands once done mower ran all afternoon.. BTW backfiring was threw carb.

Where did you get that .002 spec ? Don't want to burn any valves. They should set same as mine between .005 - 007


#11

L

Luffydog

0.0020-0.0039 in. is also correct


#12

M

macdog73

Where did you get that .002 spec ? Don't want to burn any valves. They should set same as mine between .005 - 007

Kawasaki repair manual .Go to Kawasaki.com/FR691V/repairmanual


#13

M

macdog73

0.0020-0.0039 in. is also correct

went with .0020 and still hade some "clatter" from rocker arms . I decided that .0039 might damage rocker arms.


#14

7394

7394

I personally spoke to Kawasaki & they confirmed the .005 - .007 for the FR Kaws.
And my local Dealer who repairs them, also confirmed the same.

I know the online manual you have, cause it's same one I have. But those specs are not correct according to my 2 sources & I think Kawasaki should know their engines.

Anyhow that's what I set mine to, .005 on the intakes & .006 on EX, quiet as a kitten. Whatever works for ya.


#15

L

Luffydog

Look at outdoorpowerinfo.com go to engine specs there is a list of most engines and specs.


#16

B

bertsmobile1

The problem is kawasaki & Honda publish their tune up details in metric units.
Then people see 0.20mm and think .020" not .008".


#17

L

Luffydog

Yes I think that where the confusion is coming from


#18

M

macdog73

saw both metric and us mRe: Kawasaki FR691v

however I am going to change adj. to the NO's you gave to see what happens Also the fuel filter I bought for this engine is an updated one .No one had the filter I took in. seems it is an outdated filter
I personally spoke to Kawasaki & they confirmed the .005 - .007 for the FR Kaws.
And my local Dealer who repairs them, also confirmed the same.

I know the online manual you have, cause it's same one I have. But those specs are not correct according to my 2 sources & I think Kawasaki should know their engines.

Anyhow that's what I set mine to, .005 on the intakes & .006 on EX, quiet as a kitten. Whatever works for ya.


#19

M

macdog73

I went to outdoor power FR691V specs clearance listed was 0.05 to 0.10MM ( 0.0020-0.0039 ) in specs section again same numbers .not trying to tell you that you are wrong but this is what I read.


#20

M

macdog73

0.0020 in.


#21

B

bertsmobile1

Well set yours at .002" and stop making a song & dance about it.
You have been told the spec is wrong
And I will also tell you the spec is wrong
The amount of valve lash is fairly well consistant across most small engines because the pushrod length is fairly consistant and the lash is there to compensate for thermal expansion.
The water cooled engines are a bit tighter because they stay cooler.
You have already been told the on line manual is wrong what the hell more do you want us to do.
We can not go into every copy on every computer and edit it


#22

M

macdog73

I couldn't figure why I would be arguing with a prof. mech. I went to a MM (metric ) to English conversion table . If your not too upset I found that .050 MM(metric) converts to 0.0020 (thousands inch.)


#23

7394

7394

Look in your Owners Manual, there (in mine at least) is a phone number for Kawasaki.
And ask your local Dealer.

Are you sure your Rocker Arm Brackets are Tight. If they are loose, "your specs" will explain the rattle you mentioned

Install the rocker arm brackets [A] so that bracket hollows fit to the cylinder head projections [C]. •Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the rocker arm bracket bolts, and tighten them. Torque - Rocker Arm Bracket Bolts: 14.7 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)


#24

M

macdog73

sorry to type over this mssg. === problem solved ===== follow method and check to make sure piston is onTDC IN COMPRESSION STROKE and adjust valves to .0020 thousands once done mower ran all afternoon.. BTW backfiring was threw carb.

I'm back 4/25 .Again mower now backfires and stumbles at FULL throttle but when throttle is backed off to 3/4 it runs fine for the rest of the time mowing .After stopping blades . I parked mower I throttled back but would not go to lowest throttle .(Idled at lower RPM's to cool engine before shut down for 1 min.)


#25

C

clubairth

Sorry can't help with your problem but I just did the valve adjustment and found out a few tips?

First jack the back of the mower up. Otherwise oil pours out of the bottom of the valve covers. And it will keep coming out because of how they designed the engine. Poor design!

Be sure and have a new set of valve cover gaskets on hand. They will be brittle and come off in pieces. Why Kawasaki can't figure out you need to install a REUSABLE gasket on items that must be removed for service? Part # 11061-1285 about $12-$15 for the pair.

Kawasaki wants the valves adjusted every 300 hours. I have 310 Hrs. Gaps were wider than factory spec so glad I adjusted them back to the .002"-.0039" specification. The eccentric rocker bolt seems like a good idea and it was a bit simpler to adjust compared to the normal adjusting Allen bolt.

Can't really say anything is different but I "think" it runs better? Hard to say as it was running fine before too?
.
.
.


#26

Norma_G

Norma_G

Hey folks. New to the forum. I have a Toro SS 5000 with a Kawasaki FR691v 23 HP engine. Recently, it has started backfiring when I pull the switch to engage the blades. I've heard everything from it possibly being a fuel solenoid to the brake module. Hard to get an answer out of my local dealer or the manufacturer. I currently don't really have a way to get it to a shop so if I could do it myself it would be great. Thoughts? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
It is a common problem with the Kawasaki engine. I have had the same problem before. It is a problem with a fuel line. It is so close to the engine that you can’t get to it. You can get to the fuel line by removing the protective plate. You may need to get a fuel line repair kit to fix the fuel line.


#27

7394

7394

Gaps were wider than factory spec so glad I adjusted them back to the .002"-.0039" specification.
Let us know how those specs do for yours.. .


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